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i7 3770k with Corsair H80

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OleMortenF

Member
Hi. I have an i7 3770k with Corsair H80, the CPU is @ 4.5Ghz 1.3V.
When the system is idle the temp is around 45c.
If I run Prime95 with the H80 fan at lowest setting the temps goes upto around 101c.


Isnt this very high? I thought the H80 would help a little against the stock Intel fan, but it doesnt look much like that. I used the thermal paste that came with the H80 and everything is thigh-tend.
 
Yeah I see this lol.
I think I gotta buy some other fans for the H80 because they are noisy as hell.

How many degrees can the cpu handle?
 
Okay, that's near what I get.
I really hoped I could keep running this CPU @ 4.5Ghz, I also thought the H80 could handle this but it doesn't seem like it.

What do u guys suggest I do? Just down clock it to stock, or would it help to install two Noctua NF-F12 PWM instead of the two Stock Corsair fans that came with H80?
 
OleMortenF said:
Hi. I have an i7 3770k with Corsair H80, the CPU is @ 4.5Ghz 1.3V.
When the system is idle the temp is around 45c.
If I run Prime95 with the H80 fan at lowest setting the temps goes upto around 101c.


Isnt this very high? I thought the H80 would help a little against the stock Intel fan, but it doesnt look much like that. I used the thermal paste that came with the H80 and everything is thigh-tend.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't idle at 45C with an H80.

Just for giggles I did a test with the stock HSF that came with my 3770k only I took all the TIM off so it was just bare metal on bare metal, and even then my idle temps were only 41C.

You may want to check your mount, or possibly something is wrong with your H80 (possibly dead pump, or no liquid inside it if perchance it all leaked out somehow).

Your volts are very high for that clockspeed, but that is probably needed to keep it stable at those temperatures.

With my NH-D14 at 4.5GHz my 3770k needed 1.184V to be LinX/IBT stable and temperatures peaked at 82°C - and this was before I lapped the IHS and delidded the IHS to replace the CPU TIM and eliminate the gap.

For comparison, with my H100 and the 3770k at 4.5GHz the chip needed 1.182V to be LinX/IBT stable but the temperatures peaked at 78C. (again that was before I did anything to the 3770k like lapping or delidding)

I would expect the H80 to be in the ballpark of an NH-D14 in these tests, but your results are very high and the idle temps are most telling in my opinion. Something is amiss with your mount or your H80. Don't settle for those kinds of temperatures.
 
I agree with Idontcare. I have the Intel® Core™ i5-3570K and Corsair H100 and I am not seeing temperatures like those.
 
OleMortenF said:
Hmm. What can I have done wrong then? How could I have mounted it wrong?
Click to expand...

Theory versus practice. We can talk theoretical ways it may have been assembled wrong, but in practice the best thing to do is to just go remove it, clean off the TIM, apply new TIM, and install it again.

If that doesn't improve the situation then we can start to suspect you have a bum H80, but to determine that we need you to install your stock HSF and confirm you don't have a bum 3770k.

But first thing first, eliminate the possibility of "user error". We see that a lot, don't take it personal, it happens to all of us. Even myself recently incorrectly installed my H100 on a test run, somehow got an extra washer on one of the posts which then resulted in the H100 block being all slanted relative to the IHS.

(yes I know there aren't supposed to be washers involved in an H100 installation, this wasn't a typical situation, but the point still stands, humans err, its what we do)
 
Well I'm sure I didn't add an extra washer. But I see what u mean.
When I use the stock fan, the temps arent much different from the H80.
I'm out of thermalpaste, so I have to get some new and try again then.
 
Here is a screenshot when Idle on the H80

58382328.jpg
 
My i5 ran particularly hot as well. You might want to check out IDC's delidding thread, it might have some insightful stuff in it for you.
 
I have the i7 3770k (at stock settings) with the h60 with push pull. My ide temps are 28-30C (ambient temps in room is about 75 F). With prime95 for 2 hours, temps hover at 59-60C. So those H80 temps are a bit high, but I agree, ivy does run a bit hot, so try reseating the cpu block and adding some new TIM (removing the old stuff first of course).
 
MX-4 and Artic Silver Ceramique are decent pastes (http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-May-2011/1249)
Make sure you aren't applying too much - one tube of this stuff is like 8 applications at least.

See if you can feel the pump working when you hold the tubes in your hand with the computer running. You could always disconnect the pump's power and see if the temperatures change too (although I would think you would get a thermal shutdown fairly shortly if the pump was entirely bad).
 
jacobsta811 said:
AC MX-4.
Click to expand...

This is good stuff.



Also another, slightly better alernative is Prolimatech PK-1, if you can find it. But the difference between the two is hard to tell for most practical purposes. The most important thing is how to apply the stuff (pea dot for lga 1155). Remember less is more.
 
Is the H80 part by part. Now adays all companies including Corshair are selling the all in one water cooling where its 1 part. you never have to change coolant or maintain. pump on top of waterblock like mine. and rubberized couple inches only to a RAD with 2 120mm fans blow out but at 30 percent very quiet,,,,

Corshair makes the same thing I have just their own style. and Tt sells them. 100 bucks... no need for resevoir, and no tubes everywhere no leakage ever, no change of coolant,, these are quiet nice
TT-Water-Performer.jpg
 
It may sound weird, but turn your computer so you can dismounting the rad and check the temps at the same time. Hang onto the rad while its running...wait a minute after start up for the temps to stabilize and then slowly turn it upside down. Wait a bit and watch the temps...if you can load up the CPU and see how the temps go. Careful not to stick a finger in a fan, they can break fairly easy.

I've actually run into a case where rotating the rad improved temps significantly. Must of had air in the lines or something, and by turning it around the air was able to GTFO. I don't recall now if I left the thing mounted upside down or was able to revert it to normal, but its worth experimenting.
 
My two centavos: if I were you, I'd decrease the voltage, stat. You may damage your chip! If everyone else is getting 4.5GHz stable on 1.184V or so you need to dial it back immediately and start over. Also, concurrently, drop the clock speed down. 4.0 GHz vs. 4.5 GHz is not a huge performance delta and nobody cares about how fast you OC your CPU. Also (heresy coming) the OC really doesn't make that much of a real-world performance difference. Carefully consider the amount of thermal paste you use (IDontCare's thread is full of helpful info on this).

Gone are the days when you could overvolt your CPU to the eyeballs to squeeze out that last 100 MHz for the nice round number. These things are much more sensitive then they used to be. I do not think the glory days of OCing are going to return, Sandy Bridge was the tail end of the golden age of OCing.
 
A lot of people seem confused about how to power the Corsair coolers,
the pump should be connected to the main 12v power supply and the fan to a motherboard header.

If the pump is connected to a header then it won`t run at full speed.
 
dinker99 said:
A lot of people seem confused about how to power the Corsair coolers,
the pump should be connected to the main 12v power supply and the fan to a motherboard header.

If the pump is connected to a header then it won`t run at full speed.
Click to expand...

It'll actually run without the molex connected?
 
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