Question i7-10700KF reaching 100°C in games

[rems1989]

The case is fine.

If you really want a better cooler, go with Be Quiet Light Loop 360.

Sorry, but what do you mean by "the case is fine"?
Shouldn't I still try moving the two fans at the top after removing the top glass to see if it improves airflow?

I’ve seen a lot of posts saying that AIO coolers can degrade after 5 years — with issues like bubbles or dirty liquid inside. Isn’t it possible that this could be the real problem in my case?

I’ll do some tests tomorrow and get back to you.

Also, wouldn’t it be better to switch to an air cooler to avoid those kinds of issues (bubbles, liquid problems, etc.)?
I’ve seen models like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE or the Peerless Assassin 120 SE, but I’m not sure if they’re compatible with my setup.

 

[bba-tcg]

Sorry, but what do you mean by "the case is fine"?
Shouldn't I still try moving the two fans at the top after removing the top glass to see if it improves airflow?

I’ve seen a lot of posts saying that AIO coolers can degrade after 5 years — with issues like bubbles or dirty liquid inside. Isn’t it possible that this could be the real problem in my case?

I’ll do some tests tomorrow and get back to you.

Also, wouldn’t it be better to switch to an air cooler to avoid those kinds of issues (bubbles, liquid problems, etc.)?
I’ve seen models like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE or the Peerless Assassin 120 SE, but I’m not sure if they’re compatible with my setup.

You shouldn't need to move the fans at the top, as long as the direction of airflow is towards the radiator. Just remove the glass. If that, by itself, doesn't make a significant difference, the AIO may be degraded, either by time or the way the radiator was at the lowest point for however long it was orientated that way.

 

[Rigg]

Sorry, but what do you mean by "the case is fine"?
Shouldn't I still try moving the two fans at the top after removing the top glass to see if it improves airflow?

I’ve seen a lot of posts saying that AIO coolers can degrade after 5 years — with issues like bubbles or dirty liquid inside. Isn’t it possible that this could be the real problem in my case?

I’ll do some tests tomorrow and get back to you.

Also, wouldn’t it be better to switch to an air cooler to avoid those kinds of issues (bubbles, liquid problems, etc.)?
I’ve seen models like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE or the Peerless Assassin 120 SE, but I’m not sure if they’re compatible with my setup.

Removing the top glass panel (that's blocking the airflow passing through the radiator) should massively improve the performance of your AIO cooler. This should be done before considering any other upgrades. If it doesn't improve after ditching the glass, than it's probably time to replace it.

An air cooler will be more reliable than an AIO. There isn't much that can go wrong with an air cooler beyond getting clogged with dust or the fans going bad. The Phantom Spirit is a newer model than the Peerless Assassin. It offers slightly better performance at a similar price point. That being said, a major reason these coolers get recommended is they are $35-40 USD. There are other good and affordable air coolers that may be a better value in your region.

Once you've addressed any cooling issues, consider enabling the XMP profile for your memory kit in the motherboard BIOS. The HWI64 screenshot showed that your memory is currently running at 2133 MT/s instead of 3000 MT/s because the XMP file hasn't been loaded.

As I mentioned in my previous post, enabling XMP can lead to excessive SA and IO voltages on some Intel-based motherboards. However, since your memory is only rated for 3000 MT/s, this may not be an issue in your case.

 

[rems1989]

Removing the top glass panel (that's blocking the airflow passing through the radiator) should massively improve the performance of your AIO cooler. This should be done before considering any other upgrades. If it doesn't improve after ditching the glass, than it's probably time to replace it.

An air cooler will be more reliable than an AIO. There isn't much that can go wrong with an air cooler beyond getting clogged with dust or the fans going bad. The Phantom Spirit is a newer model than the Peerless Assassin. It offers slightly better performance at a similar price point. That being said, a major reason these coolers get recommended is they are $35-40 USD. There are other good and affordable air coolers that may be a better value in your region.

Once you've addressed any cooling issues, consider enabling the XMP profile for your memory kit in the motherboard BIOS. The HWI64 screenshot showed that your memory is currently running at 2133 MT/s instead of 3000 MT/s because the XMP file hasn't been loaded.

As I mentioned in my previous post, enabling XMP can lead to excessive SA and IO voltages on some Intel-based motherboards. However, since your memory is only rated for 3000 MT/s, this may not be an issue in your case.

ok thanks guys.

What are the "other good and affordable air coolers that may be a better value". Could you advice me one or two which will be ok with my setup please ? (i'm in france fyi)

i will look at this xmp thing after thanks. After setting this i come back to you with hwinfo64 screenshot to see if there is a trouble ?
I also eared about undervolting the CPU is a good thing. Have I to do it ? And if yes how ?

 

[Rigg]

ok thanks guys.

What are the "other good and affordable air coolers that may be a better value". Could you advice me one or two which will be ok with my setup please ? (i'm in france fyi)

I checked Amazon.fr and none of the alternatives I was going to suggest are any less expensive than the Thermalright coolers. In reality, any dual tower 120MM with LGA 1200 compatibility is probably going to get the job done, but it's hard to go wrong with a Thermalright. They don't appear to be severely overpriced in France. I've used the Phantom Spirit or Peerless Assassin in all of my builds the last few years and I highly recommend them. They're excellent coolers.

i will look at this xmp thing after thanks. After setting this i come back to you with hwinfo64 screenshot to see if there is a trouble ?

Post a HWI64 screenshot with the XMP profile enabled and I'd be happy take a look at it for you.

 

[rems1989]

I checked Amazon.fr and none of the alternatives I was going to suggest are any less expensive than the Thermalright coolers. In reality, any dual tower 120MM with LGA 1200 compatibility is probably going to get the job done, but it's hard to go wrong with a Thermalright. They don't appear to be severely overpriced in France. I've used the Phantom Spirit or Peerless Assassin in all of my builds the last few years and I highly recommend them. They're excellent coolers.




Post a HWI64 screenshot with the XMP profile enabled and I'd be happy take a look at it for you.

Thanks a lot I'll come back to you
Just a quick question : I also eared about undervolting the CPU is a good thing. Have I to do it ? And if yes how ?

 

[Rigg]

Thanks a lot I'll come back to you
Just a quick question : I also eared about undervolting the CPU is a good thing. Have I to do it ? And if yes how ?

You're welcome. Don't concern yourself with undervolting the CPU for now. While fairly simple to achieve, it can introduce instability if not properly stress tested.

 

[rems1989]

You're welcome. Don't concern yourself with undervolting the CPU for now. While fairly simple to achieve, it can introduce instability if not properly stress tested.

I removed the glass and I have the same temperature (max 100 degres) sorry I have not took a screenshot
so I have to buy a new cooler right ?

 

[Markfw]

I removed the glass and I have the same temperature (max 100 degres) sorry I have not took a screenshot
so I have to buy a new cooler right ?

You have 2 options. If the fluid pump is not working, can repair that

OR

Buy a heatsink. Even if the fans both die, it still gives quite a bit of cooling

I recommend option 2

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE CPU Cooler $35 at amazon and probably also newegg.​

note:

• 【Compatibility】The CPU cooler Socket supports: Intel:115X/1200/1700/17XX AMD:AM4;AM5; For different CPU socket platforms, corresponding mounting plate or fastener parts are provided（Note: To install the AMD platform, you need to use the original motherboard's built-in backplane for installation, which is not included with this product)

So it fits yours !!!!

 

[Makaveli]

My system is actually this one but my radiator barbs are higher than pump head than in this picture and no issues.

Alot of good suggestion in here so far should be easy for OP to fix.

 

[bba-tcg]

I removed the glass and I have the same temperature (max 100 degres) sorry I have not took a screenshot
so I have to buy a new cooler right ?

This is the way.

 

[igor_kavinski]

The subzero is available on French Amazon: https://www.amazon.fr/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-Sub-Zero-Refroidisseur/dp/B08NCSF11M/

If you play mainly games (and don't run crazy multicore rendering or encoding type of workloads), this is a great option. Just read the manual carefully and run it in "controlled" mode so no condensation is created around the CPU.

 

[In2Photos]

I removed the glass and I have the same temperature (max 100 degres) sorry I have not took a screenshot
so I have to buy a new cooler right ?

The only other possibility is that the pump isn't mounted flat to the CPU. Your previous screenshot shows the pump running at 4200+ RPM. I see no reason why it shouldn't be able to cool that CPU now that you removed the glass. When you take the pump off this time take a picture of how the thermal paste looks on the CPU.

Otherwise I see a new cooler in your future.

 

[Rigg]

I removed the glass and I have the same temperature (max 100 degres) sorry I have not took a screenshot
so I have to buy a new cooler right ?

Assuming you are still hitting 100C in Returnal with only a 95W load, the cooler is likely faulty. Not really a surprise since it wasn't installed in the proper orientation and it was blowing hot air through the radiator directly into a glass panel. If this PC has been being used like this for several years I'd recommend replacing it regardless.

It's possible the situation did improve even if the CPU is still thermal throttling at 100C. It could be drawing significantly more power while still throttling at 100c with the glass removed.

 

[rems1989]

Thanks, everyone.

Rigg recommended the Thermalright Phantom Spirit, mentioning it’s a newer model than the Peerless Assassin and offers slightly better performance at a similar price point.

However, I noticed multiple versions of both the Phantom Spirit and the Peerless Assassin on the provided links.
Could you please advise which specific model would be best suited for my setup?
If possible, could you share the exact link to the recommended product ?

1. Thermalright Phantom Spirit : i saw like 5 or 6 products on the link
2. Thermalright Peerless Assassin : same, many prodcuts looks the same to me..
3. or an other one ?

And do i need to add fans at the top because if i remove all the watercooling i will not have any fan on the top

 

[Schmide]

I bought a skytech gaming system back during covid to get the video card. I think it had a MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R. (skytech rebranded it poorly with stickers) I took the video card put a ok video card in it and gave it to my niece. Well it sucked and was slow. Turned out the rad was blocked.

I had to jump through hoops to make them send me a new rad.

I even broke out my thermal cam to prove it to them. Here are the pics

Edit: I think i determined that the rad wasn't blocked but rather the chamber that sends the water through the rad was breached so the liquid was never going through the rad.

 

[Rigg]

Thanks, everyone.

Rigg recommended the Thermalright Phantom Spirit, mentioning it’s a newer model than the Peerless Assassin and offers slightly better performance at a similar price point.

However, I noticed multiple versions of both the Phantom Spirit and the Peerless Assassin on the provided links.
Could you please advise which specific model would be best suited for my setup?
If possible, could you share the exact link to the recommended product ?

1. Thermalright Phantom Spirit : i saw like 5 or 6 products on the link
2. Thermalright Peerless Assassin : same, many prodcuts looks the same to me..
3. or an other one ?

The primary difference between the Peerless Assassin 120 and Phantom Spirit 120 is the heat pipe arrangement. The PS uses 7x6mm heat pipes and the PA uses 6x6mm heat pipes. There are many variants of these 2 coolers available on Amazon (here in the US anyway) but the differences between the variants are primarily cosmetic. They vary in the decorative top plate (or lack there of) and can vary slightly in height depending on the top plate. They also vary in whether the fins are coated in black/white vs plain silver, and whether or not they have RGB fans. A given model should perform the same regardless of cosmetic variation.

The only variant of these 2 coolers (that I'm aware of) that has any real difference is the Phantom Spirit 120 EVO. This is their more premium model that has completely different fans than the other PS variants. This one doesn't do as well in noise normalized thermal testing, but it does offer better overall performance than the other PS variants if you let the fans go full speed.

I don't see many variants available on Amazon in France.

This is the only Phantom Spirit I can find on Amazon.fr:

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www.amazon.fr

The Peerless Assassin only has 2 SE variants available from Amazon.fr:

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www.amazon.fr

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www.amazon.fr

Since all 3 of them are within a few euros I'd still recommend the Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB.

EDIT: I wasn't seeing all of the Thermalright PS/PA variants available for purchase on Amazon.fr because of my US IP address. I suspected this might be the case, so I checked again today while connected to a VPN in NLD. I now see that there are as many options available in France as there are in the US.

@rems1989 I'd suggest you avoid an ARGB model if possible because it just adds another layer of complication in getting it installed. I personally like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE Black but any PS120 variant should work fine.

And do i need to add fans at the top because if i remove all the watercooling i will not have any fan on the top

Just reuse the radiator fans as case exhaust fans. You can screw them directly into the case with fan screws.

 

[rems1989]

The primary difference between the Peerless Assassin 120 and Phantom Spirit 120 is the heat pipe arrangement. The PS uses 7x6mm heat pipes and the PA uses 6x6mm heat pipes. There are many variants of these 2 coolers available on Amazon (here in the US anyway) but the differences between the variants are primarily cosmetic. They vary in the decorative top plate (or lack there of) and can vary slightly in height depending on the top plate. They also vary in whether the fins are coated in black/white vs plain silver, and whether or not they have RGB fans. A given model should perform the same regardless of cosmetic variation.

The only variant of these 2 coolers (that I'm aware of) that has any real difference is the Phantom Spirit 120 EVO. This is their more premium model that has completely different fans than the other PS variants. This one doesn't do as well in noise normalized thermal testing, but it does offer better overall performance than the other PS variants if you let the fans go full speed.

I don't see many variants available on Amazon in France.

This is the only Phantom Spirit I can find on Amazon.fr:

Loading…

www.amazon.fr

The Peerless Assassin only has 2 SE variants available from Amazon.fr:

Loading…

www.amazon.fr

Loading…

www.amazon.fr

Since all 3 of them are within a few euros I'd still recommend the Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB.

EDIT: I wasn't seeing all of the Thermalright PS/PA variants available for purchase on Amazon.fe because of my US IP address. I suspected this might be the case, so I checked again today while connected to a VPN in NLD. I now see that there are as many options available in France as there are in the US.

@rems1989 I'd suggest you avoid an ARGB model if possible because it just adds another layer of complication in getting it installed. I personally like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE Black but any PS120 variant should work fine.



Just reuse the radiator fans as case exhaust fans. You can screw them directly into the case with fan screws.

thanks for the edit

Finally I bought this one yesterday (see below as well) .The version is ok right ?
I will receive it tomorrow and I'll come back to you
I bought the fan screws you mentionned too

 

[Rigg]

thanks for the edit

Finally I bought this one yesterday (see below as well) .The version is ok right ?
I will receive it tomorrow and I'll come back to you
I bought the fan screws you mentionned too

Yes, that should work great. Hopefully your case has an opening in the motherboard tray so you don't have to remove the motherboard to install the new back-plate. An opening in the motherboard tray has been standard on most cases for quite some time, so hopefully this isn't a problem for you. You might consider taking the back panel off the case before it arrives so you know what you are dealing with. Installing the cooler isn't overly difficult assuming you don't need to remove the motherboard. Just take your time and be careful while doing the installation.

I took the liberty of screen shoting the relevant diagrams from the installation instructions. The instructions are included in package, but they're in very small print, and difficult to read.

Spoiler: Installation Instructions

 

[rems1989]

I set up the phantom 120 SE as well as a new corsair 2x16gb ram (3200Mhz). I also enabled XMP in the bios.

Temperatures in games are much better! I get a maximum of 65°C and I still have a little stuttering in game (returnal) but it's probably because I set all graphics to epic (DLSS = balanced)

Finally, do you see any other problems in the test results or improvements to do in the settings to optimize my PC?

I've included screenshots of everything I think might help (hwinfo64 after playing returnal, msi bios settings screenshot, cinebench CPU & GPU, 3D mark steel nomad test, returnal game performance test).

https://imgur.com/a/v9MxKrN

Thank you very much again, you've been a great help!

 

[Rigg]

Happy to help! I'm glad the cooler swap went well so you can start to enjoy the system.

The SA and IO voltages are probably a bit higher than they need to be (for 3200 C16 memory anyway) but they're well within safe limits. No worries there. It's probably best to just leave them alone.

The only other thing I'd recommend is dialing in your power limits and/or temp limits on the new cooler. Go into the advanced mode (F7) OC Menu> DigitALL Power sub-menu and look at the PL1,PL2, Tau, and thermal throttle limit. Intel doesn't enforce standards for these values so the board makers can set these to whatever they want.

That cooler should be able to sustain around 220ish watts under heavy sustained loads like Cinebench well under the 100c TJ max. Set both PL1 /PL2 the same (200W might be a good place to start) and max out Tau. I'd also cap the temp limit at 80-85c. Watch HWI64 with Cinebench running to see what kind of temps, core clocks, and power draw you get and dial the limits in accordingly.

This article will explain all of this power limit stuff in more depth. It's not super complicated. It should be pretty easy to dial in where you want it.

 

[Rigg]

@rems1989 your PL1 and PL2 are currently set to the maximum possible value of 4096W. I didn't notice this at first, and thought it may have been enabled automatically with XMP, but it's also in your first HWI64 screenshot. It appears your motherboard enables multi-core enhancement out of the box with the default auto settings.

This is effectively means there is no power limit on your CPU since it would be impossible to draw anywhere near that much power. You're currently dependent on temperature (or possibly the current limit) to throttle the CPU. This isn't necessarily a bad thing if the cooler can handle the load being thrown at it. It will use as much power as it needs to maintain it's maximum boost clock unless it hits its thermal limit. In a heavy enough load, it's possible it could still throttle at 100c (unless you set a lower temp limit) just like it did with the old cooler. Albeit at much higher frequency/power usage because the cooler is actually working properly.

The maximum boost clock is scaled depending on how many cores are utilized. When 8 cores are utilized it will boost to 4.7 GHz and will go up to 5.1 GHz when only 2 cores are used. There is -200 Mhz frequency offset when running a workload that uses AVX instructions.