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I5 2500K: 4.4 @ 1.35 64c loaded, sound ok?

Markbnj

Elite Member <br>Moderator Emeritus
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Curious how those numbers sound to folks? Board is an Asus P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1 B3. It shows vCore in a scary red color at anything over 1.25-ish. Will 1.35 be ok for long term use? I wasn't able to get stable at 4.5 at 1.35 and didn't want to go any higher so I dropped back to 44 multiple. Any thoughts?
 
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Sounds ok ish. I am using mine on offset mode now because it lets the CPU idle at 1.6ghz with 0.90v rather than pumping full voltage through it all the time.

Using +0.020 offset @ 4.5ghz with LLC set to high and cpuz is reporting a max 1.36v at full load with IBT and 0.904v @1.6ghz at idle. I am still fiddling with the settings thought to see if I can get it any lower.

1.35 should be fine for long term use but as you are aware any OC can decrease the life of your chip, most people seem to agree 1.35 should be ok for a 24/7 OC and some people are happily running 1.4v+ 24/7. I suppose it depends how careful you want to be
 
You are 100&#37; fine and in fact can run even more vcore. Most users consider anything under 1.4 to 1.425 safe for 24/7 daily use and I am in that same boat. I have had several SB chips and have done a lot of testing with them. I recommend you bump it back up to 4.5 or higher and see what it takes to get it stable.

Best way to do it IMHO, is like this. Set your load vcore to 1.4 and your multi to 45, see if your stable if so great, now try 46, if thats stable try 47. If 47 is stable go to 48. If 48 fails at 1.4vcore then try 1.425. If it's still not stable then go back to 47x and then drop your vcore from the 1.4 down to 1.385 and try that, if thats stable drop down to 1.38 try that and so forth and so forth.

The whole goal when overclocking is trying to get the most speed at the best vcore. Of course anyone can pump 1.6 volts through a processor to get 5.0ghz+, but that isn't a good use for 24/7. You can pump A LOT of voltage through SB chips for short bursts such as benchmarking but it's not a good idea for 24/7 use.

So with that being said, don't be afraid to up your voltage. Also when testing stability only use LinX or IBT with the AVX package as that is currently the BEST software on the market to test for stability. P95 is a decent program, but it will NOT push the chip to its limits/knees like the other two will. You will also notice higher temps with linx/ibt, so expect and be ready for 10c higher over prime95. Personally I wouldn't allow temps to hit over 80c MAXIMUM for ibt/linx. Again thats max max max temps, and I would like to see them under 75c if possible. However if you hit 78 on one core or 80c package max temp, it's not to big of a deal because in real world gaming or encoding you will never hit those temps.

As puppies04 said it's a good idea to use speed step technology so that at idle your chip uses less voltage. Contrary to SOME beliefs this will NOT give you bsod's or cause any issues. If you ever get a bsod it is due to system instability and has nothing to do with the down clocking of your cpu and voltages.

As far as chips degrading SB hasn't really been out long enough for a lot of people to know what is bad/good. However I can tell you that I know of a few chips running at 1.5vcore + for 24/7 use that are still doing just fine today. I have put much more then that through my chips for benching and they are all still alive too.

As far as degradation goes people need to realize that the majority of users will not have SB chips 5 years down the road. So yes, if you run 1.45 vcore 24/7 you might take 1 year off the 10yr life span or 20yr life span, but does that matter? For the majority of users, not at all. If you plan on upgrading to IB or another system within 3 years, you would be just fine running A LOT of voltage 24/7 if your system temps were within reason. Degradation isn't as scary as a lot of people make it out to be, and is something that can take a long, long long time to notice / see.
 
Cool, thanks for the input guys. I tend to keep my CPUs for awhile (because teenagers spend all my money) so I will probably let her hang at 4.4 and 1.35. Hell, that's a 33&#37; overclock. Not too damn shabby.
 
Sounds good. Ya a 33&#37; overclock isn't bad by any means and at that vcore the chip will last a very very long time!
 
So, not very happy with the temps on the stock cooler. I downloaded HWMonitor because I suspected speedfan was reading the wrong sensor, and it wasn't giving me the individual cores. HWMonitor was reporting over 80c at 4.4 and 1.35v when fully loaded using prime95. I backed off to 4.3 and 1.30v and the temps are in the mid to high 70s fully loaded. Still seems hot.

One interesting thing is that cores 1, 2, and 3 are all within 1 degree or less of each other, while core 0 is 4-5 deg. cooler.
 
So, not very happy with the temps on the stock cooler. I downloaded HWMonitor because I suspected speedfan was reading the wrong sensor, and it wasn't giving me the individual cores. HWMonitor was reporting over 80c at 4.4 and 1.35v when fully loaded using prime95. I backed off to 4.3 and 1.30v and the temps are in the mid to high 70s fully loaded. Still seems hot.

One interesting thing is that cores 1, 2, and 3 are all within 1 degree or less of each other, while core 0 is 4-5 deg. cooler.
where you really expecting the stock cooler would keep temps low when overclocking like that? 😕

temps can vary quite a bit between cores so that is normal.
 
I have the P8P67 Pro Rev3.0 board so its a little different than your board.

Setting my LLC to regular(none) allowed me to stabalize my overclocks at lower vcore with my 2500k. I used offset voltage also. I'm at work so no data with me but at 4.5ghz the drop in loaded vcore was around. 040v's

My 2700k will do 4.8ghz this way also with loaded vcore 1.352v's.

Might be worth a try and see.what it does for you.
 
where you really expecting the stock cooler would keep temps low when overclocking like that? 😕

temps can vary quite a bit between cores so that is normal.

Well it was worth a shot 🙂.

Another interesting thing is every time I have hit the wall it was core 0 that failed.

Any recommendations on a not-too-pricey cooler that might get me to 4.4?
 
Well it was worth a shot 🙂.

Another interesting thing is every time I have hit the wall it was core 0 that failed.

Any recommendations on a not-too-pricey cooler that might get me to 4.4?

The Cooler Master 212 and Corsair A70 are inexpensive and provide good cooling performance.
 
Ya the hyper 212 EVO is a great cooler. The evo is much better than the 212+ because A it has a better fan that moves more cfm and B the base, aka bottom of it has a much much smoother surface.

Oh also, don't use Prime95. Use linx or intelburntest with the AVX pack. This will also raise your temp quiet a bit though so watch it. This program REALLY pushes SB chips, much harder then prime95 does.
 
Ya the hyper 212 EVO is a great cooler. The evo is much better than the 212+ because A it has a better fan that moves more cfm and B the base, aka bottom of it has a much much smoother surface.

Oh also, don't use Prime95. Use linx or intelburntest with the AVX pack. This will also raise your temp quiet a bit though so watch it. This program REALLY pushes SB chips, much harder then prime95 does.

I don't want to push it any harder until I get an upgraded cooler. I'm running it at 4.2 now, with 1.28v. Playing Skyrim it maxed the temps in mid-60s.
 
I don't want to push it any harder until I get an upgraded cooler. I'm running it at 4.2 now, with 1.28v. Playing Skyrim it maxed the temps in mid-60s.

If you're running in the mid-60s then I would advise against running Linx or Intel Burn Test. Either that or lower the overclock/overvolt.
 
I live in the Southern US and we had an awful, awful Summer this year. My PC was close to the windows and even with a low voltage OC and great aftermarket cooler, I was pushing 70C with @ 4ghz. The 2 580's did not help either. Now things have cooled off my temps barely push past 60 under load. Long story short, I wouldn't worry about that temp and ambient temps matter greatly.
 
Long story short ambient temps dont change drastically unless you are poor and can't afford heat. Long story short do NOT run overclocked on a stock heatsink just because one game puts you at mid 60s. First off gaming wise your temps should be much lower and secondly if you run ANY cpu intensive task *which gaming is not* you will be pushing 80c+ temps. LinX would probably force a bsod on your system and or the thermal shutdown point.

Get a hyper 212 evo, there 30 bucks.
 
Long story short ambient temps dont change drastically unless you are poor and can't afford heat. Long story short do NOT run overclocked on a stock heatsink just because one game puts you at mid 60s. First off gaming wise your temps should be much lower and secondly if you run ANY cpu intensive task *which gaming is not* you will be pushing 80c+ temps. LinX would probably force a bsod on your system and or the thermal shutdown point.

Get a hyper 212 evo, there 30 bucks.

Yeah, that's good advice man. I don't really care for the way the 212 heatsink is finished where it contacts the CPU, but I'll pick up a Zalman or something. I should be able to get this chip to 4.5-4.6 at 1.4.

In the meantime I'll back it off to 4.
 
The Cooler Master 212 and Corsair A70 are inexpensive and provide good cooling performance.



yeah those are both good.

Markbnj, if the 212 evo will clear your ram then go with that. I have the A70 and its pretty loud even with the resister.
 
The zalman's are garbage the 212 evo has a great finish on the bottom.

Maybe I'm thinking of a different cooler. Isn't that the one where the heatpipes are in direct contact with the package, and the gaps between them have to be filled with gobs of TIM?
 
Maybe I'm thinking of a different cooler. Isn't that the one where the heatpipes are in direct contact with the package, and the gaps between them have to be filled with gobs of TIM?

You're correct only in saying that the heatpipes are in direct contact with the package.

I believe you're thinking about it all wrong.

No gaps need to be filled... The only thermally important thing is that the heat-pipes need to be seated firmly against the CPU.

Thermal paste is only needed between the heat-pipes and the CPU, any excess will be squished out and into those gaps. The best application of thermal paste is the thinnest with full contact... You don't want gobs of thermal paste!

The heat-pipes are doing ALL the work on these coolers, so they are the only parts that matter as far as the seating is concerned. That is why direct-contact heat-pipes work so well... The block of aluminum (or w/e metal) is pretty much only there to hold the heat-pipes and to give a secure mounting to hold the weight of the cooler.

Hope this makes sense!
 
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