I won a photo competition :)

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Oct 27, 2007
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Those pics are so good they look shooped! :eek:
Thank you :) The last two pictures in the OP are shopped. The boat was a single exposure with some careful dodging and burning plus a couple of color balance adjustment layers. The beach picture is a single exposure with two RAW conversions blended, plus a dodge/burned overlay layer. None of them have any structural photoshopping (adding/removing elements).

If you're interested in my PP process I wrote a quick blog entry about it a few months ago, Salvaging a Bad Photo in Photoshop. Of course I always prefer it when my pictures come out of the camera looking perfect, sometimes we have to work with what we have :)
 
Oct 27, 2007
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Congrats GA!! I've been thinking off an on of entering a contest myself but like you have never thought my shots would be good enough. Maybe I will now?

While I like the winning shot I actually would have picked the boat shot as the winner of the ones you posted. Again no offence.
Can't hurt to enter :) A lot of people respond well to the boat shot, absolutely no offense taken.

I tend to prefer photographs that have some sentimental meaning to me, so it's not always easy to tell which of my pictures other people will like. For example the second picture in the OP (snowy mountain with the chapel) doesn't seem to elicit much response from anyone, but I love it because it's my favourite part of the country (amazingly beautiful place) and that day the weather was just picture perfect and the place was incredible. On the other hand, the boat was just something I saw while walking along the harbor and snapped a few images of, so it holds almost no meaning to me.
 

Firebot

Golden Member
Jul 10, 2005
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Canon 30D and a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. That particular image was shot at 50mm, 1/30", 1600 ISO. My only other lens (apart from the kit lens I never use) is a 50mm f/1.8 (nifty fifty) which I hardly ever use. The sharpness on the fifty is only slightly better than the Tamron, which is a very impressive lens considering the price.

I have the Tamron 17-50mm for my sony, it's a phenomenal lens for the price and my walkaround lens. It's the first lens anyone should get to first replace their starter kit lens.
 

gorcorps

aka Brandon
Jul 18, 2004
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*crosses fingers that GA wins the 'most creative sibling homicide award' fairly soon*

:D
 

zinfamous

No Lifer
Jul 12, 2006
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A photographer from The Press (biggest newspaper on this island) came and took some pictures of me yesterday afternoon, only a couple of days before I'm due to shave this ridiculous mustache :D Now it will be immortalized in ink.

lol!

congrats!
 

ChaiBabbaChai

Golden Member
Dec 16, 2005
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wow very nice work! The boat picture is probably the one I like best, personally, but all very nice.
 

KeithTalent

Elite Member | Administrator | No Lifer
Administrator
Nov 30, 2005
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That kitty picture is all kinds of awesome.

KT
 
Oct 27, 2007
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cosmo-newspaper.jpg


I don't remember giving the photograph such a lame-ass title :hmm:
 

eits

Lifer
Jun 4, 2005
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www.integratedssr.com
those are some awesome pics, ga. great job! congrats!

i wish i had that kind of knack for photography. some people have it and some don't. i don't really know if i do or not... i never really explored it and definitely don't have the money to afford buying the equipment for it.
 

destrekor

Lifer
Nov 18, 2005
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Canon 30D and a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. That particular image was shot at 50mm, 1/30", 1600 ISO. My only other lens (apart from the kit lens I never use) is a 50mm f/1.8 (nifty fifty) which I hardly ever use. The sharpness on the fifty is only slightly better than the Tamron, which is a very impressive lens considering the price.

Tamron makes some surprisingly nice optical elements for the price they charge.

My photography teacher had commented on some photos, at the technical level (in high school), when he wanted to know what lenses I used. He was impressed at what they could produce.

Now, at the super attention to technical detail level, they have a ways to go for amazing, getting placed in museum galleries level of quality.
But for the amateur, they do a damn good job.

I'd love a 17-50m f/2.8.
Problem is, you're not using FF. A 17-50 f/2.8 is quite expensive, even from the cheap companies, for a FF/35mm camera.

BTW, I still have, and only have, a 35mm camera.

And I have to say this:
that boat scene would have looked VERY impressive with a quality film pushed to 3200. It would have looked painted. Absolutely beautiful when the light is right.
Of course, soft images is like a huge no-no these days in the digital world. :(
That, and the current tech reproduces high ISOs like absolute shit.
It's one thing to have a real ISO and seeing the grain (can be good or terrible, depending on film stock and on desired effect. 1600 is about shit no matter what. More grain at higher speeds can look impressive)... but emulating grain with digital noise? Ugh. Leave the true art for the medium that can make it with chemicals. :p

I'm a huge fan of the dark room (been forever :(), and manipulating any and every physical stage of image production.
But you have to know what you want when you are going in. For the high speed world, capturing the candid moment, digital rules. Post processing dark-room emulation is great as you can tool around with ideas you weren't prepared for in any way.
But landscape and general stills? I'm all about the film.

In fact, that's probably exactly the route I'll go. I do want an FF digital body, quite badly actually. Film is a pain in the ass.
But I'd love to hold onto my 35mm (Nikon n65, not crazy advanced but does the trick in capable hands), and build a small darkroom once I get my own house. Use the digital for spur of the moment stuff, and whenever I go somewhere and have planned photo ideas, start looking into right film ideas.
Though really, I need myself a medium format or 4x5.
Now that, THAT is expensive.

Well that and awesome lens without distortion or flare issues below 15mm and are able to keep fine lines.

Edit:
Just realized, that 17-50mm lens you have, is basically almost the same as my 28-80mm Tamron lens for my Nikon 35mm. Can't remember any more specifics, I didn't bring it down with me again this year, though I had it for a film photography course I took here as well.
Didn't get nearly as many good photos in that course as I did my high school course. This was a color photography course, no darkroom, whereas my highschool course and B&W and darkroom. The project categories were just terrible for the course here at the university, at least in my opinion, and the instructor was fairly hell bent on strongly encouraging yuppie art-styles and social photography.

The projects are what break me. Give me freedom, and I'll have a couple of shots I really like on every roll.
 
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thepd7

Diamond Member
Jan 2, 2005
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Well I've never entered a photo competition before because I never really thought my pictures were up to standard. Some classmates talked me into entering the UCSA (University of Canterbury Students' Association) photo comp and I won the digital category :)

The winning picture:


I also entered these images, the first one in digital category and the next two in digital manipulated.

Very happy about it. The judge also told me that he judged mine the best in the show, but there is no prize for that.

How could you have possible thought your pictures are not up to standard? Absolutely incredible, nice work.


Despite what gear heads will tell you, it's not an expensive hobby. I have a nice Canon 30D and two lenses, only one of which I really use. I don't visit photography forums, ever. All those wankers care about is expensive gear. For me it's about the love of making nice images.

Now obviously I do want some better lenses at different focal lengths, but I don't need them to enjoy my hobby.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

I somewhat agree. I shoot with an Olympus E410 which I got used for $300 and I can take some really great pictures, however my sister in law's D90 is like a dream when I use it compared to mine.

And if I really wanted to get serious (weddings, flowers, landscape, etc) I would need to drop another $2k.

That being said, I'm not going to do that and I will still get some great shots.
 
Feb 19, 2001
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@Destrekor: You can try the 17-40L which is decently priced. Certainly not the price of a 17-50 from Tamron on Crop, but you can't really compare the two lenses as they're meant for two different systems.

17-40L is a nice steal for a UWA lens. That is until you try the 16-35L :D
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
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Canon 30D and a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. That particular image was shot at 50mm, 1/30", 1600 ISO. My only other lens (apart from the kit lens I never use) is a 50mm f/1.8 (nifty fifty) which I hardly ever use. The sharpness on the fifty is only slightly better than the Tamron, which is a very impressive lens considering the price.

Was this all done on manual or aperture priority. Usually I keep my camera on aperture priority for just about all shots. I have yet to learn what shutter speed to aim for for most shots. I usually just find if it's in the 1/60 to 1/500 range I just shoot. Given an infinite depth of field what aperture/shutter speed combo do you like to aim for? The only thing I've learned much control over is DOF using aperture priority.

And 1600 ISO! I try to keep mine bellow 400. I'm using a Pentax K20D. I find 1600 to be too grainy.
 
Oct 27, 2007
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Was this all done on manual or aperture priority. Usually I keep my camera on aperture priority for just about all shots. I have yet to learn what shutter speed to aim for for most shots. I usually just find if it's in the 1/60 to 1/500 range I just shoot. Given an infinite depth of field what aperture/shutter speed combo do you like to aim for? The only thing I've learned much control over is DOF using aperture priority.

And 1600 ISO! I try to keep mine bellow 400. I'm using a Pentax K20D. I find 1600 to be too grainy.
Depends what I'm shooting. With the kitten I'll be on aperture priority because he dashes around a lot, which means lots of changing light and there's no way I could keep up with the different conditions on M without losing lots of shots. There is no ideal aperture/shutter setting, it depends too much on the image you're trying to capture. You should visualize how you want to image to look, set the most important variables first and then work with what you have.

For example, if you're photographing a river and you know you want to capture the motion, then set your shutter speed first (say, 1/10") and then the ISO and aperture settings follow from there. On the other hand, if you're doing a landscape and need lots of sharpness and a high DOF then set your aperture first (say, f/12). I highly recommend reading a book called Understanding Exposure if you really want to know this stuff in detail.

As for ISO, this is another reason I don't visit photography forums or discuss the hobby with gear-heads. The pixel-peepers have become so obsessed with "perfect" image quality that they forget why we do this. If I need to shoot at 1600 or 3200 ISO to get the image I want then I'll do it. You just need to know what you're doing - on high ISO settings you must expose to the right to save the image in post. I use (and love) Neat Image, and I've heard good things about Noise Ninja too.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
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Depends what I'm shooting. With the kitten I'll be on aperture priority because he dashes around a lot, which means lots of changing light and there's no way I could keep up with the different conditions on M without losing lots of shots. There is no ideal aperture/shutter setting, it depends too much on the image you're trying to capture. You should visualize how you want to image to look, set the most important variables first and then work with what you have.

For example, if you're photographing a river and you know you want to capture the motion, then set your shutter speed first (say, 1/10") and then the ISO and aperture settings follow from there. On the other hand, if you're doing a landscape and need lots of sharpness and a high DOF then set your aperture first (say, f/12). I highly recommend reading a book called Understanding Exposure if you really want to know this stuff in detail.

As for ISO, this is another reason I don't visit photography forums or discuss the hobby with gear-heads. The pixel-peepers have become so obsessed with "perfect" image quality that they forget why we do this. If I need to shoot at 1600 or 3200 ISO to get the image I want then I'll do it. You just need to know what you're doing - on high ISO settings you must expose to the right to save the image in post. I use (and love) Neat Image, and I've heard good things about Noise Ninja too.

Thanks for the links, will follow up. I know I have something of an eye for photography and often shots will hit me when I'm out walking but I'm still a newb at some of the technical stuff.
 
Feb 19, 2001
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Was this all done on manual or aperture priority. Usually I keep my camera on aperture priority for just about all shots. I have yet to learn what shutter speed to aim for for most shots. I usually just find if it's in the 1/60 to 1/500 range I just shoot. Given an infinite depth of field what aperture/shutter speed combo do you like to aim for? The only thing I've learned much control over is DOF using aperture priority.

And 1600 ISO! I try to keep mine bellow 400. I'm using a Pentax K20D. I find 1600 to be too grainy.

Ehh. Av mode mostly. Manual when I'm using flash. I'm getting to the point where I can really control indoors what shutter speeds I need and stuff with my flash. Usually it's 1/60th and fire away, but in clubbing events it's a little trickier with some bright areas and some dark areas and the desire to drag the shutter.

Bottom line is if you're shooting outdoors and in most situations, you could care less what your shutter speed is. For me, as long as its greater than 1/60th I'm usually happy. If we're talking about sports and motion, you definitely want to aim for 1/500th at least. I have some 1/250th shots of football and I'm not too happy with the motion blur. 1/500th or 1/640th is enough with basketball, but there are some faster sports where you NEED 1/1000th at least. I have a lot of 1/640th shots of kickboxing and there is sitll blur.

Don't be afraid of ISO. With modern processing and high resolution sensors, you should be fine. Pentax does really well with ISO noise, at least the K-x does anyway. It should easily rival Nikon in RAW resolution if not trounce it, and I'm usually ok going to ISO 800 on my Canon. 1600 gets a little sketchy, but I'll do it if its necessary. You can always clean up in post processing to eliminate some noise, but when resized for web, ISO1600 isn't too bad at all. ISO3200 is where I start giving up. LOL. Now on a full frame like 5D I wouldn't hesitate using ISO3200 or 6400 even.
 
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