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I want to buy a receiver/hitch

S

SAWYER

Lifer
I want to buy a hitch for my CRV but I am not real sure what to get. I will not be pulling anything major, it will be used occasionally to take stuff to the land fill or pick up something I buy off craigslist like a four wheeler or whatever. I looked on ebay and there are a ton of options, any suggestions?
 
This is the absolute cheapest way:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Tow-Ste...keywords_two_browse-bin:7020255011|7020252011

I personally picked up a generic Reese hitch for ~$17 on Amazon, and then welded on some extra support, drilled holes and used stainless bolts. Total cost came out to less than $50.

You probably won't need anything more than that unless you're going to be beating on it. I beefed mine up since my car's bumper is aluminum.

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UxIVOdw.jpg
 
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Should be able to order a curt model that fits your vehicle. Advance auto parts usually has good coupons and have free shipping.

What year cry?
 
Fyi: Don't do this...

yuriman said:
this is the absolute cheapest way:

http://www.amazon.com/ultra-tow-ste...keywords_two_browse-bin:7020255011|7020252011

i personally picked up a generic reese hitch for ~$17 on amazon, and then welded on some extra support, drilled holes and used stainless bolts. Total cost came out to less than $50.

You probably won't need anything more than that unless you're going to be beating on it. I beefed mine up since my car's bumper is aluminum.
Click to expand...

Get the correct hitch with the correct mounts. stainless and aluminum do have the potential for galvanic corrosion when in contact, store bought stainless will also have a lower tensile strength than grade 8 bolts.

etrailer.com is a good resource and has good service.
 
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Yuriman said:
This is the absolute cheapest way:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Tow-Step-Bumper-Receiver-500-Lb/dp/B00E5DXRQW/ref=sr_1_92?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1439930997&sr=1-92&keywords=receiver+hitch&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7020255011%7C7020252011

I personally picked up a generic Reese hitch for ~$17 on Amazon, and then welded on some extra support, drilled holes and used stainless bolts. Total cost came out to less than $50.

You probably won't need anything more than that unless you're going to be beating on it. I beefed mine up since my car's bumper is aluminum.

bxI45tc.jpg


Dk0qh1q.jpg


iXYVsuN.jpg


AAJdisr.jpg


vda1fw4.jpg


UxIVOdw.jpg
Click to expand...

You have that attached to the floor pan of the trunk and the bumper? 😵 Man, that looks really mickey mouse. I wouldn't tow anything more than a tiny empty trailer with that setup.

OP, get a Curt hitch and either install it yourself (PITA) or have someone install it for you (totally worth the nominal cost IMO). I bought one for my Camry to carry a hitch mounted bike rack and it has worked very well. The hitch is a direct bolt on (for the most part) and attaches to the frame rails of the rear sub-frame of the car.
 
herm0016 said:
Fyi: Don't do this...



Get the correct hitch with the correct mounts. stainless and aluminum do have the potential for galvanic corrosion when in contact, store bought stainless will also have a lower tensile strength than grade 8 bolts.

etrailer.com is a good resource and has good service.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the constructive criticism, but in my case there was no "correct" hitch with mounts. I isolated the metals with HDPE, and went with very large bolts. I'm fairly certain that the point of failure is where the bumper beam bolts onto the car, and there's nothing I can do about that.

JulesMaximus said:
You have that attached to the floor pan of the trunk and the bumper? 😵 Man, that looks really mickey mouse. I wouldn't tow anything more than a tiny empty trailer with that setup.

OP, get a Curt hitch and either install it yourself (PITA) or have someone install it for you (totally worth the nominal cost IMO). I bought one for my Camry to carry a hitch mounted bike rack and it has worked very well. The hitch is a direct bolt on (for the most part) and attaches to the frame rails of the rear sub-frame of the car.
Click to expand...

The floor pan support is not for bearing any loads; rather, it prevents torquing of the bumper beam. I've towed 3/4 of a ton a thousand miles through the Appalachians with it so far.
 
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Yuriman said:
I appreciate the constructive criticism, but in my case there was no "correct" hitch with mounts. I isolated the metals with HDPE, and went with very large bolts. I'm fairly certain that the point of failure is where the bumper beam bolts onto the car, and there's nothing I can do about that.
Click to expand...

You could buy or rent an appropriate vehicle that is designed for towing.


The floor pan support is not for bearing any loads; rather, it prevents torquing of the bumper beam. I've towed a 3/4 a ton a thousand miles through the Appalachians with it so far.
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😵 Just because you did it and nothing bad happened doesn't mean it is safe.

Personally, I think what you recommended is really bad advice and I think you're absolutely crazy to tow a 3/4 ton load with a 1st gen Honda Insight.
 
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JulesMaximus said:
You could buy an appropriate vehicle that is designed for towing.


😵 Just because you did it and nothing bad happened doesn't mean it is safe.

Personally, I think what you recommended is really bad advice.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, but find me another vehicle that can get 70mpg towing 3/4 a ton in the mountains and I'll buy it.

EDIT: I'm still of the opinion that OP could get away with what I linked, just running a few things to the landfill. It's not like he wants to pull a camper.
 
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FYI, the curt hitch for my beetle uses the same spot on the trunk pan, with big washers. It grabs the subframe on one side and the tow hook on the other side in the back.
Unibody cars were never designed with big trailers in mind anyway.
 
Just saw your other thread. looks like a 2006?
Advance auto has a reese class I hitch for $89.99 after code trt41. free shipping.
 
waffleironhead said:
Class 1 is rated to 2000 lbs, class 3 is 6000. Your crv looks to be rated for only 1500.
Click to expand...

Also mention that Class I and II receiver hitches have a 1 1/4" receiver while a Class III has a 2" receiver. For the OP's use, the size of the receiver won't be a problem outside a bit more hassle finding 1 1/4" sized drawbars and a very much smaller selection of rises/drops vs. what you find in 2" drawbars.
 
I installed a valley tow receiver on my rav4. It was easy. Just use a floor jack to hold up one side while you bolt the other side. The receiver holes lined up perfectly with the frame holes
 
brainhulk said:
I installed a valley tow receiver on my rav4. It was easy. Just use a floor jack to hold up one side while you bolt the other side. The receiver holes lined up perfectly with the frame holes
Click to expand...

Mine wasn't that easy. I had to cut 2 holes in the frame rails (one on each side), drop the exhaust, remove a plastic tray and heat shield then cut the tray and shield so they would fit back on the car around the hitch. It took me hours to do this install. I would gladly pay someone $150 to do this if I had it to do all over again.

The hitch itself was only $150.
 
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