I think my catalytic converter is going out the window...

[Zenmervolt]

Some dummy that called himself a mechanic said the check engine light doesn't matter (usually just for emission stuff), but even if is just a sensor, I am quite paranoid whenever I see that light. This thread is definitely a good reason for that.

The key is "usually." For example, the most recent time the check engine light came on in my car was for the barrometric pressure sensor. That's what the car uses to tell if it's at high altitudes (over ~4,000 ft.) and lean out the fuel map due to the lower air density. That I could have allowed to be on forever.

However, the prior time it was for a misfire (old spark plugs). That could have caused serious damage if I hadn't fixed it immediately.

You just don't know until you check the code. And, if you have a code for something unimportant and let the light stay on, then you'll have no way to tell if it triggers a second, more serious, code.

ZV

 

[BUTCH1]

Yeah. Well, I want to tear it down. I've wanted to do it for a long time but I haven't had a garage in my own place for a while. My next place will.

I'm thinking of buying a jack and jack stands($200). Getting some penetrating oil, new gaskets, and new bolts. And then taking the cat off (with magic, because I don't think I'll get it off even with a 2ft breaker bar) and checking the status of it. If it has any melted grid in it, I can assume it's shot and is actually the issue of hesitation and acceleration. If it looks crystal clear and all honeycomb juicy then... What would you think it is then? Also, should I just punch a whole through the catalytic converter until I can replace it and the engine? I know the ethics and laws of such a thing are tenuous for me at best... But I'm not really having a whole lot of options here besides spend $1000+ to replace the engine and cat by someone else.

IIRC you can tap on the outside of it and listen for stuff rattling around to tell if it's bad. Move to FL, we have no inspections, then you can just run a straight pipe and say you bought it that way if it ever gets checked..

 

[BUTCH1]

The key is "usually." For example, the most recent time the check engine light came on in my car was for the barrometric pressure sensor. That's what the car uses to tell if it's at high altitudes (over ~4,000 ft.) and lean out the fuel map due to the lower air density. That I could have allowed to be on forever.

However, the prior time it was for a misfire (old spark plugs). That could have caused serious damage if I hadn't fixed it immediately.

You just don't know until you check the code. And, if you have a code for something unimportant and let the light stay on, then you'll have no way to tell if it triggers a second, more serious, code.

ZV

How true, I had a code set for "vent valve canister solenoid", I could have run it like that with no issues but I spent the $16 for the part then had to drop the tank to swap it out, ouch. Bout 2 months later I noticed a hesitation on hard acceleration, light came on, it was a misfire on #2, swapped plugs and wires, all is fine now.

 

[TridenT]

I'm posting from my phone, otherwise I would give some images. Anyway, I'm going through the flow chart honda provides in their factory service manual for 96-00 civics. I'm on page 11-160 and did some testing of the wires. My secondary O2 sensor isn't getting battery voltage when ignition II is on. I tried to test a couple connectors to see if they were faulty and they aren't. So, it's something higher up in the line of cables. The problem though is that it's all hidden behind my dash and they're bundled together in plastic tubing. So, I don't know how one of the wires got disconnected there, but presumably it did. So, what should I do? Buy some wire and rewire from the O2 sensor to the ECM (just splice a wire into each of the two faulty wires and splice them into the wires coming out of the ECM connectors?

This problem is pretty complicated and since the wires are basically hidden (even with my car torn apart) it's hard to tell where the open wire is...

I had to take my car apart while I was here on the street. It's such a pain in the ass to work on it this way. Now I have to put it back together and it's not going to be pretty...

I can't resolve that O2 sensor issue without knowing which wired to splice into... Which isn't very obvious from Hondas manual.

Edit: I tested the wires between the two connectors (A8 and B2) by disconnecting both of those connectors from the ECM. Would that be the incorrect way to test them? (It would be practically impossible for me to test them while they're plugged in)

 

[TridenT]

Okay, well. Whatever. I spliced wires today. Spliced one wire directly into the ECM connector and spliced another directly into a power connection. Reset the codes and it hasn't come up again.

I'll do some more testing... and then try to make it pretty, but it will be mighty difficult. (Some of these wires are so short that I cannot cut them and then solder on. I have to cut the insulation off and then wrap the other around.)

 

[TridenT]

Oh the plot thickens... Fix one thing, many new things emerge.

I'm ready for a new car. That said, I think this will get me to my destination. I took off the cat and it barely showed any wear except on the exiting side. It had a little debree there. Otherwise , I could see through it fine.

 

[RLGL]

Also, junking my car at the moment is very difficult. I'm on a road trip trying to find a place to live and I don't have a whole lot of dough to throw around...

Otherwise I would just buy a used toyota prius or something of that sort.

If this car fails beyond reasonable repair, I might have to just find another used civic since I don't have a ton of money to toss in the air.

So you want to toss a pile of money at an old POS. At 250 a month, how many payments you make on something better for 2K in parts and tools?

 

[TridenT]

So you want to toss a pile of money at an old POS. At 250 a month, how many payments you make on something better for 2K in parts and tools?

I don't have a job or a real job history. I've just graduated from college. I'm not going to be approved for a car loan.

 

[LTC8K6]

It had a little debree there

I've just graduated from college

Which college?

 

[TridenT]

Which college?

Blame Apple's autocorrect.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

compression #'s seem ok and you've worked out the O2 sensor issue for the moment. When you get a chance research mil eliminators. The most pressing issue is where the oil is going. A quart between oil changes is one thing, but if it's burning that much in a short time you really need to get the valves checked.

 

[TridenT]

Drove over 1,000 miles in the last 24 hours. No noticeable oil loss from when I checked during fill ups. (Checked at beginning of drive, ~500 miles, and ~1,000 miles)

I'll keep checking every fill up to ~500 miles and see if there's any loss... but the car works pretty fucking well. I drove through 300 miles of thunderstorms (some pouring down, some dry) at 77mph with no problems. The rest of the 700 miles was at 55-75mph. Gas mileage was also tolerable (between 31-36mpg) and I had the AC on for almost all of that 1000 miles.

It just has some poor acceleration and pickup from what I can tell. I don't have a good place to run the numbers yet on 0-60 times to prove it.

 

[TridenT]

Car has been running alright.

That said, I have to register my car now. Unfortunately, I couldn't renew it out of state and not have to pass emissions... because I am due for emissions testing. :'(

So, now I have to fix the issue. Suggestions on what catalytic converter to get? I'm not registering in CA or NY. When I move to CA/NY I'll probably sell the car in AZ after I make some $$$.

It's a 2000 Honda Civic EX 1.6L SOHC. I was looking at EASTERN CATALYTIC Part # 40293 but I couldn't tell if it had a proper O2 port or not. I think it does. It's $120 on rock auto. I need a new sensor too. (The current one has its threads stripped and is stuck inside the cat) I was thinking ULTRAPOWER Part # 2344098 since it's the cheapest.

 

[jlee]

Car has been running alright.

That said, I have to register my car now. Unfortunately, I couldn't renew it out of state and not have to pass emissions... because I am due for emissions testing. :'(

So, now I have to fix the issue. Suggestions on what catalytic converter to get? I'm not registering in CA or NY. When I move to CA/NY I'll probably sell the car in AZ after I make some $$$.

It's a 2000 Honda Civic EX 1.6L SOHC. I was looking at EASTERN CATALYTIC Part # 40293 but I couldn't tell if it had a proper O2 port or not. I think it does. It's $120 on rock auto. I need a new sensor too. (The current one has its threads stripped and is stuck inside the cat) I was thinking ULTRAPOWER Part # 2344098 since it's the cheapest.

Has your CEL come back on?

 

[TridenT]

Has your CEL come back on?

It never went away.

 

[TridenT]

This might no longer be an issue. I can renew my tags while I'm out of state and can ignore the emissions test until I "return". Woot, go WA.

Still, expensive to renew. $78.75. Ouch!

 

[waffleironhead]

Why are you renewing out of state? Aren't you a resident of az now?

 

[jlee]

Okay, well. Whatever. I spliced wires today. Spliced one wire directly into the ECM connector and spliced another directly into a power connection. Reset the codes and it hasn't come up again.

I'll do some more testing... and then try to make it pretty, but it will be mighty difficult. (Some of these wires are so short that I cannot cut them and then solder on. I have to cut the insulation off and then wrap the other around.)

Hence my confusion.

This might no longer be an issue. I can renew my tags while I'm out of state and can ignore the emissions test until I "return". Woot, go WA.

Still, expensive to renew. $78.75. Ouch!

I just paid ~$200 for one year. $80 isn't horrible, but it might be cheaper to register in AZ (except that whole would-fail-emissions thing).

 

[TridenT]

Why are you renewing out of state? Aren't you a resident of az now?

I've gotten extensions on all my stuff because I'm out of state. I'm on the up-and-up.

Hence my confusion.



I just paid ~$200 for one year. $80 isn't horrible, but it might be cheaper to register in AZ (except that whole would-fail-emissions thing).

I think it wasn't on for a period of time but it's definitely been fully on for at least 4 months.

I don't want to pay $200+ to fix the problem that isn't really a problem outside of emissions testing AND then register my car, get my license here, and so forth... especially when I plan on moving soon. Not much point to it as compared to what I am doing now which makes financial sense at the least.

 

[tortillasoup]

replace PCV valve if you haven't already, that will turn a normal car into an oil burner. A Clogged PCV valve will result in poor emissions, poor fuel economy, poor performance, oil burning, etc etc.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...tcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=BREATHER+CHAMBER+(VTEC)

Part listed as #3.




After doing that, you're probably due for Cap and rotor replacement, maybe plugs and wires. If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the wires and if they're out of spec, definitely will need to replace them. I wouldn't worry too much about replacing the catalytic converter when you car isn't running optimally at this point.