I think I'm so screwed...
- Thread starter Mrvile
- Start date
Same crap happened to me when I was building. Turn off/unplug the PSU. Set CMOS jumper on clear, plug in the PSU and only the PSU on. Wait about 10 sec, set the CMOS jumper back to it's normal position and try booting up.
Have you checked to make sure you didn't accidentally dislodge anything important, like the case switch connector - to - motherboard?
I know this is also a long shot - that your case power switch just happened to go bad but..
Have you tried disconnecting the case power button wire from the motherboard, and, using a small screwdriver, "closing" the "power on" connector by briefly placing the metal srewdriver across both of the two leads (which in effect is creating your own temporary pw button) ?
Here's another idea:
Have you double checked that the P/S to mobo connector is FULLY SEATED in the plug???
Sometimes they APPEAR to be connected but one or more of the 20 pins is not making full contact?
Here's another idea:
Have you checked, by unplugging the P/S connector and holding it towards you, that one or more of the 20 pins has not "receded" into the plastic connector ??? I had that happen to me once and it took some work but I was finally able to "pull it" back to the "surface" of the plastic connector using a small tool. Then, when I replugged it into the motherboard connector, I had to be REAL CAREFUL to make sure that the force of plugging it back in did not cause the "pin" to recede again, thus causing a lack of a full connection to the mobo.
Greg
I know this is also a long shot - that your case power switch just happened to go bad but..
Have you tried disconnecting the case power button wire from the motherboard, and, using a small screwdriver, "closing" the "power on" connector by briefly placing the metal srewdriver across both of the two leads (which in effect is creating your own temporary pw button) ?
Here's another idea:
Have you double checked that the P/S to mobo connector is FULLY SEATED in the plug???
Sometimes they APPEAR to be connected but one or more of the 20 pins is not making full contact?
Here's another idea:
Have you checked, by unplugging the P/S connector and holding it towards you, that one or more of the 20 pins has not "receded" into the plastic connector ??? I had that happen to me once and it took some work but I was finally able to "pull it" back to the "surface" of the plastic connector using a small tool. Then, when I replugged it into the motherboard connector, I had to be REAL CAREFUL to make sure that the force of plugging it back in did not cause the "pin" to recede again, thus causing a lack of a full connection to the mobo.
Greg
If this solution works for you REMEMBER that you will have to go BACK into CMOS setup and RESET all your "custom" settings from their "default" settings !!!! :frown:
Ive had wierd issues after working on some Conpaqs that are similar to what you describe. Try unplugging the power cord, then depress the power switch and while holding the power switch down, plug the cord back in. Thats worked for me on 2 different comps. Dunny why, and after that the switch works fine.
I concur with masshass81, resetting your CMOS via a jumper will hopefully correct your problem. Did you by any chance reseat your memory too? Having a Dimm that's not completely seated can also have this effect but if you didn't touch your memory then resetting your CMOS is the most likely answer.
I've had to do this several times with computers I work on. Some mobo's (usually cheap ones) might not have a jumper and you may have to actually short it out with a paper clip or some other metal object. Hopefully you don't have a mobo like this though. If you do though, look in your mobo book and it will tell you the location to short.
Let us know when you get it fixed and what fixed it.
When RAM is not seated properly the system will usually still start and power up; it will not pass POST though but it WILL power up.
My "hardware" instuctor tried this trick on us one of the days he was testing our troubleshooting skills in lab.
The "clear BIOS" strategy MAY work but one of the things I suggested MAY solve his problem too mr Tiger !!!
Actually I believe you will need to RMA the MB. When excatly did you get this board? I see you have the Neo2 Platinum, and this exact thing has happened to many Neo2 owners, including myself. It was a fairly common problem several months ago, but I was thinking they have somehow fixed this.
Here is what I experienced:
My CPU was running warm, so I took of the HSF, applied some Arctic Silver and reinstalled the HSF. Something I have done many times in the past for other CPU's. It never booted again.
When I plugged in the PSU, the fans came on and it tried to boot. (For some reason some Neo2's want to start whenever the PSU is plugged in/switched turned on, rather than waiting for the case power button to be pushed. This should not happen and is a sign of a problem MB).
It had power, but would not boot and the D-link hung on 4 red LED's which means "the CPU is bad or is not properly installed". I spent an entire weekend trying to get it to post with no luck.
If you search on the MSI forums, you will see this has happened many, many times for this particular board. I RMA'd my board, and the replacement has worked perfectly.
Here is what I experienced:
My CPU was running warm, so I took of the HSF, applied some Arctic Silver and reinstalled the HSF. Something I have done many times in the past for other CPU's. It never booted again.
When I plugged in the PSU, the fans came on and it tried to boot. (For some reason some Neo2's want to start whenever the PSU is plugged in/switched turned on, rather than waiting for the case power button to be pushed. This should not happen and is a sign of a problem MB).
It had power, but would not boot and the D-link hung on 4 red LED's which means "the CPU is bad or is not properly installed". I spent an entire weekend trying to get it to post with no luck.
If you search on the MSI forums, you will see this has happened many, many times for this particular board. I RMA'd my board, and the replacement has worked perfectly.
- Oct 16, 2004
- 14,066
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Ok guys, here's the full story...and I'm afraid there aren't many solutions left...
I was getting bad temps with my new watercooling setup. So I go to reapply AS5 (I applied a little too much the first time through) and when I seated the CPU back on, it held. However when I went to power up, the system speaker went *beeeeeeeeep.........beeeeeeeeeeeep...........beeeeeeeeeep* long beep, long pause, long beep, although the two CD drives started up (the lights blinked on them both). So I figured I had seated the CPU wrong, although it fitted, so I went to reseat the cpu.
Dangderden has something with their waterblocks. There's no way you can take them off the cpu after you've put them on. The AS5 holds like glue and you practically have to pry the CPU off. Anyway when I pulled on the heatsink, the cpu came out of the socket with it. No big deal, I figure, and I slowly twisted the CPU off. But I damn nead had a heart attack when I saw that 8 of the pins were bent, 4 on one side and 4 on another.
I took a small flathead screwdriver and bent them back (this is the scariest part, what if I overbend them and they snap off??) and when they all looked straight I reseated the CPU with great care and concentration, and this time I made sure it was down (and it was, and it held, and the arrow pointed the same way as the motherboard). I put the heatsink back on, everything looked fine, took the comp back into my room and plugged everything in. I hit the switch on the PSU, and everything booted up (the thing with the Neo2 is that you need to hit the switch, which turns on the fans and stuff, then hit the power button to POST the motherboard). I hit the power button. Once. Twice. Five times. Nothing. The CD drives didn't even blink on.
So I do the first thing that comes to my mind: check the power cables. I unplugged and plugged each one back in, and still nothing. I reset the CMOS, same thing still happens.
Here's the situation I'm in now. I hit the switch for the PSU, the fans on the radiator, northbridge, and video card all turn on. The water pump turns on. Everything is running like it should on the Neo2. I hit the power button to initiate the bootup, and nothing happens. It doesn't even beep or blink or anything. You may think the power button is bad or something, HOWEVER: when I hold the power button down, the comp turns off. When it's off (and the PSU is on) and I hit the power button, the comp turns on, but doesn't beep or blink and no screen. Any new ideas? I'm afraid maybe I broke the CPU?
EDIT: Oh about the motherboard...I first received it back in November, but it was slightly screwy so I RMA's and got a new one in January-February ish. I don't wanna RMA again...taking the system apart right after I set it up is a nightmare, especially with water tubes going every direction.
And one more thing I forgot to mention. Remember when I was hearing the long beeps? Before I reseated my CPU I thought it was the ram, so I removed a stick. When I heard that it gave me the same beeps, I plugged it back in and went ahead to reseat the CPU. I don't think it's the ram though but it might be.
I was getting bad temps with my new watercooling setup. So I go to reapply AS5 (I applied a little too much the first time through) and when I seated the CPU back on, it held. However when I went to power up, the system speaker went *beeeeeeeeep.........beeeeeeeeeeeep...........beeeeeeeeeep* long beep, long pause, long beep, although the two CD drives started up (the lights blinked on them both). So I figured I had seated the CPU wrong, although it fitted, so I went to reseat the cpu.
Dangderden has something with their waterblocks. There's no way you can take them off the cpu after you've put them on. The AS5 holds like glue and you practically have to pry the CPU off. Anyway when I pulled on the heatsink, the cpu came out of the socket with it. No big deal, I figure, and I slowly twisted the CPU off. But I damn nead had a heart attack when I saw that 8 of the pins were bent, 4 on one side and 4 on another.
I took a small flathead screwdriver and bent them back (this is the scariest part, what if I overbend them and they snap off??) and when they all looked straight I reseated the CPU with great care and concentration, and this time I made sure it was down (and it was, and it held, and the arrow pointed the same way as the motherboard). I put the heatsink back on, everything looked fine, took the comp back into my room and plugged everything in. I hit the switch on the PSU, and everything booted up (the thing with the Neo2 is that you need to hit the switch, which turns on the fans and stuff, then hit the power button to POST the motherboard). I hit the power button. Once. Twice. Five times. Nothing. The CD drives didn't even blink on.
So I do the first thing that comes to my mind: check the power cables. I unplugged and plugged each one back in, and still nothing. I reset the CMOS, same thing still happens.
Here's the situation I'm in now. I hit the switch for the PSU, the fans on the radiator, northbridge, and video card all turn on. The water pump turns on. Everything is running like it should on the Neo2. I hit the power button to initiate the bootup, and nothing happens. It doesn't even beep or blink or anything. You may think the power button is bad or something, HOWEVER: when I hold the power button down, the comp turns off. When it's off (and the PSU is on) and I hit the power button, the comp turns on, but doesn't beep or blink and no screen. Any new ideas? I'm afraid maybe I broke the CPU?
EDIT: Oh about the motherboard...I first received it back in November, but it was slightly screwy so I RMA's and got a new one in January-February ish. I don't wanna RMA again...taking the system apart right after I set it up is a nightmare, especially with water tubes going every direction.
And one more thing I forgot to mention. Remember when I was hearing the long beeps? Before I reseated my CPU I thought it was the ram, so I removed a stick. When I heard that it gave me the same beeps, I plugged it back in and went ahead to reseat the CPU. I don't think it's the ram though but it might be.
Are you sure you locked the CPU back in place? You mentioned placing it in it's sockets but you also have to lock the control bar after it has been placed.
Sucks to bend your CPU pins you have to be carefull. If nothing happened go back to the beggining and start over again.
CPU => Motherboard => memory => case connections => connect power
From the looks of it if nothing happens when you press power then it's the CPU or motherboard.
If it boots up and beeps then it's something else.
Sucks to bend your CPU pins you have to be carefull. If nothing happened go back to the beggining and start over again.
CPU => Motherboard => memory => case connections => connect power
From the looks of it if nothing happens when you press power then it's the CPU or motherboard.
If it boots up and beeps then it's something else.
- Oct 16, 2004
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Lol rise, that was just a out-of-the-blue post. I don't think it was my ram, it coulda been anything and it didn't affect my computer in any way so I doubt it's that.
Vigilante, you think it's my CPU? I think it's either the motherboard or CPU, but it was the CPU that took the beating, but will be the most expensive to replace if I had to replace it. I only had it for like 6 months too!!
Can someone confirm what the LONGBEEP.......LONGBEEP.......LONGBEEP means? I have the MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum motherboard. Thanks.
Vigilante, you think it's my CPU? I think it's either the motherboard or CPU, but it was the CPU that took the beating, but will be the most expensive to replace if I had to replace it. I only had it for like 6 months too!!
Can someone confirm what the LONGBEEP.......LONGBEEP.......LONGBEEP means? I have the MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum motherboard. Thanks.
I believe long beeps are a video problem which seems unrelated to your problem.
There are 3 main problems that could occure when you boot up that the bios will notify you of.
memory, video, keyboard. If any of those is connected imporperly you will get a an error.
If you're computer does not post the bios and nothing happens, so long as you have a good power supply the problem will likely be in the CPU or Motherboard.
Beyond that you would have to check to see if your CPU is attached properly and does not have any bent pins.
If everything looks fine then you'll have to test each piece individually to see which on is broken. So you have to put the CPU into a working MOBO and visa-versa.
Good luck
There are 3 main problems that could occure when you boot up that the bios will notify you of.
memory, video, keyboard. If any of those is connected imporperly you will get a an error.
If you're computer does not post the bios and nothing happens, so long as you have a good power supply the problem will likely be in the CPU or Motherboard.
Beyond that you would have to check to see if your CPU is attached properly and does not have any bent pins.
If everything looks fine then you'll have to test each piece individually to see which on is broken. So you have to put the CPU into a working MOBO and visa-versa.
Good luck
Ok, this sounds so famialr, it's ridiculous.
First, let me state that when turning on the PSU switch, nothing should come on. This is a fairly common problem with the Neo2's, but it's still a problem. in other words, it's an indication of a "bad" board. My 2nd Neo2 does not do this.
Ok, so back to my situation:
My temps were running higher than I liked, so I shut my computer down and went to bed. The next morning I decided to remove the HSF and put some AS on. But the CPU was cold and it came with the HSF. Some pins were bent and I succesfully bent them straight. It never posted.
So I start a thread very similar to this, and after lots of searching and posting (here, MSI forums, google). I read many similar stories, but normally everything was fine after straightening the pins. Not so in my case.
Well Monarch (I had purchased a combo from them in Jan. of this year) voided my MB and CPU warranty for using AS. Long story there.
So I sent my CPU to AMD for testing/replacement. It never posted for them so they sent me a new one.
As for the MB, Monarch finally honored my warranty and RMA'd my MB and the new on has worked great since day one.
After researching this heavily on the MSI forums I found that this was a somewhat common problem. Many people reported that one day their Neo2 no longer would boot from a cold start (left off over night). Some reported it taking the CPU with it, some said their CPU was fine.
This was with mainly with boards bought from around Nov. 04 - Jan 05. Since both your boards are from this time frame, I suggest an RMA.
First, let me state that when turning on the PSU switch, nothing should come on. This is a fairly common problem with the Neo2's, but it's still a problem. in other words, it's an indication of a "bad" board. My 2nd Neo2 does not do this.
Ok, so back to my situation:
My temps were running higher than I liked, so I shut my computer down and went to bed. The next morning I decided to remove the HSF and put some AS on. But the CPU was cold and it came with the HSF. Some pins were bent and I succesfully bent them straight. It never posted.
So I start a thread very similar to this, and after lots of searching and posting (here, MSI forums, google). I read many similar stories, but normally everything was fine after straightening the pins. Not so in my case.
Well Monarch (I had purchased a combo from them in Jan. of this year) voided my MB and CPU warranty for using AS. Long story there.
So I sent my CPU to AMD for testing/replacement. It never posted for them so they sent me a new one.
As for the MB, Monarch finally honored my warranty and RMA'd my MB and the new on has worked great since day one.
After researching this heavily on the MSI forums I found that this was a somewhat common problem. Many people reported that one day their Neo2 no longer would boot from a cold start (left off over night). Some reported it taking the CPU with it, some said their CPU was fine.
This was with mainly with boards bought from around Nov. 04 - Jan 05. Since both your boards are from this time frame, I suggest an RMA.
- Oct 16, 2004
- 14,066
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Ok Ike, first, how long are Monarch's RMA warranties again? They had better be over 6 months...and second, when you sent them your CPU/motherboard, did they send you a new one of each or just a new motherboard? I kinda want a new CPU...constantly bent pins get weaker and weaker...
Finally, how should I remove the Dangerden heatsink for the last time without bending any more pins? I want the HSF to actually come OFF of the CPU, not the CPU to yank out of the socket.
Damn, this means that I'll have to take my whole water setup apart to remove the motherboard, and this is the second time I'm RMAing this damn MSI board. At least it performs well when it works or else...
Finally, how should I remove the Dangerden heatsink for the last time without bending any more pins? I want the HSF to actually come OFF of the CPU, not the CPU to yank out of the socket.
Damn, this means that I'll have to take my whole water setup apart to remove the motherboard, and this is the second time I'm RMAing this damn MSI board. At least it performs well when it works or else...
I realize you have a watercooling solution, I don't know much about them. But what I usually before taking out my CPU is turn down my cpu fan and prime it, and then shut down, and THEN take out the heatsink. If there's any way you can heat up your system before removing your stuff, go for it.
-TPG
You'll likely have to RMA it to MSI. If you would like, they will cross ship in certain situations. I'm sure yours would qualify considering the history on this board.
I sent my CPU to AMD, and when it never posted, they sent me a new one. (actually they ended up sending me a 3800+ Newcastle to replace my 3000+ winnie
)Your CPU was retail, right?
- Oct 16, 2004
- 14,066
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Lol now I wish it were retail...
I'm sending in an RMA request now...Monarch's policy is 6 months but my last invoice was in December (when I last RMA'd it) so I still have a month or so. Also, I ordered both the motherboard and the CPU from Monarch, so I figure RMAing the whole setup to them instead of sending them abroad would work best.
Wish me luck!
I'm sending in an RMA request now...Monarch's policy is 6 months but my last invoice was in December (when I last RMA'd it) so I still have a month or so. Also, I ordered both the motherboard and the CPU from Monarch, so I figure RMAing the whole setup to them instead of sending them abroad would work best.
Wish me luck!
If it was a combo, they definitely will want you to send both.
Either way, best of luck and let me know what Monarch says.
Either way, best of luck and let me know what Monarch says.
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