I need to take my car to the shop, can I drive it this way?

[Vetterin]

DO IT! Just as long as it's not my car.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

As said expect them to be pissed off you half assed it. When I had my shop I charged more if it came like that so don't be surprised to see a higher price. .

And plan on finding a new shop if they treat you this way. I have two trusted mechanics that do the exact opposite. They encourage me to try and are perfectly willing to take basket cases. My main mechanic has told me on a couple of occasions how to DIY and given me pointers.

It's the same concept as a home imprvement project gone horribly wrong. If I get grief from a contractor about my efforts he gets fired on the spot.

 

[Jimzz]

And plan on finding a new shop if they treat you this way. I have two trusted mechanics that do the exact opposite. They encourage me to try and are perfectly willing to take basket cases. My main mechanic has told me on a couple of occasions how to DIY and given me pointers.

It's the same concept as a home imprvement project gone horribly wrong. If I get grief from a contractor about my efforts he gets fired on the spot.

Mechanics charge by hour/time. If someone takes it apart and has everything loose it takes more time as all the bolts and hardware are not where they go. Let alone if any of the bolts go through a oil/coolant passage they need certain sealers and can also require different torque specs.

Cliffs: Time = money

 

[natto fire]

Personal experience.

Yeah, but I think OP is not going to be driving with his high beams/flashers on with the blower running/rear defroster on, and constantly rolling the power windows up and down.

You were either doing that or had a bad battery if you couldn't make it 1.5 miles on a well charged battery.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Mechanics charge by hour/time. If someone takes it apart and has everything loose it takes more time as all the bolts and hardware are not where they go. Let alone if any of the bolts go through a oil/coolant passage they need certain sealers and can also require different torque specs.

Cliffs: Time = money

No problem and most people to whom a competent mechanic explained this to would understand. There is no reason for mechanic to be a douchenbaggen about it or try to gouge a customer though.

The OP's situation warrants charges at the spec book hours and not a penny more.

 

[Meghan54]

Mechanics charge by hour/time. If someone takes it apart and has everything loose it takes more time as all the bolts and hardware are not where they go. Let alone if any of the bolts go through a oil/coolant passage they need certain sealers and can also require different torque specs.

Cliffs: Time = money

And that's one reason independent mechanics tend to welcome baskets....book time gets thrown out the window. Mechs. charge labor time by book time, not actual time spent on the job, unless you show up with loose, flopping parts, baggies full of bolts, etc., etc. Then, you're simply at the mercy of the mechanic and how fast he feels like straightening out the jigsaw puzzle.

 

[Meghan54]

Yeah, but I think OP is not going to be driving with his high beams/flashers on with the blower running/rear defroster on, and constantly rolling the power windows up and down.

You were either doing that or had a bad battery if you couldn't make it 1.5 miles on a well charged battery.

I don't think Trident understands reserve capacity of batteries, you know, the time rating batteries are given which represents how long a battery can power a running car without the alternator, albeit with all the elec. power accessories off, but running low beam headlights. Of course, if Trident's battery was on its last legs or he was running his boom box stereo, A/C, playing with the windows, and on high beam, no wonder his didn't last long.

Really, 1.5 miles, even at a conservative 30 mph, should only take you 3-4 min. to drive. Can't see more than 10 minutes or so in stop-and-go traffic, and most batteries in decent shape can manage to run a car with low beams on for at least an hour.

 

[SAWYER]

It isnt a big deal if I put the parts back on, it probably wont take but an hour

 

[Harrod]

With everything off it will make it. You may want to leave the drivers side window down just incase you have to push it off of the road. I have done something similar with my Integra once with a dead alternator. Besides the dash lighting up you should be able to make it as long as you aren't stopped at a light.

 

[apac]

When the power steering in my subaru quit working I found it to be pretty dangerous to drive. Turns at stop lights, changing lanes, etc, required a lot of oomph. I wouldn't do it.

The battery should be fine without the alternator for that distance.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

He's still forcing the power steering rack to turn without being powered, and passing a car on to a mechanic partially disassembled.

Personally I think you should take the time to put it back together..... And drive it there.

 

[thedarkwolf]

And that would be a problem because? I drove a old beater with the ps belt removed for a year. Doesn't hurt anything other than your arms at very low speeds.

 

[natto fire]

He's still forcing the power steering rack to turn without being powered, and passing a car on to a mechanic partially disassembled.

Personally I think you should take the time to put it back together..... And drive it there.

I drove my '91 Integra without a power steering belt for almost 2 years without any issue. I agree that it would be a better idea to put it back together as well, but the OP was not asking my opinion, just whether or not it could be driven without a power steering pump or alternator for 1.5 miles, and the answer is yes.