I need help understanding my current PSU and if it needs to be replaced

[MikeyLSU]

Sorry for this but I am clueless right now to everything and am trying to figure this out.

I just got a R9 290 video card that I believe needs 31A from the +12V rail. My current PSU is this http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Stal...1461556498&sr=1-1&keywords=rosewill+rd500-2db

I have read the sticky about the split 12v rails but I still don't know where this falls.

Basically 2 things, anytime I start a game, the computer crashes, so I assume it is just not getting enough power.

So do I need a new PSU?
And if you got this far, any suggestions? I have no plans to dual GPU.

My entire setup is
i5-3570k
16 GB RAM
Radeon R9 290
G43 MOBO I believe this is it http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-...pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461557076&sr=1-2&keywords=g43

Thank you so much if you can help

 

[thesmokingman]

So do I need a new PSU?
And if you got this far, any suggestions? I have no plans to dual GPU.

That psu is ancient. The psu would have still been useful if it were a single rail. You can try balancing the plugs on the gpu, 8pin on one rail and 6pin on the other. I can't tell whats what from that nest of cables.

Regardless I would start looking at a new psu. What's your budget?

A quick look on slickdeals got this hit for starters... oh also I think there are some good choices on Evga b stock atm too.

http://slickdeals.net/f/8682791-550...ga-750-gq-65ar-650-p2-75ar?v=1&src=SiteSearch

 

[MikeyLSU]

As far as budget, I'm trying to not spend too much. I would like to keep it as close to $50 as I can, but will go as high as the $80-$90 range.

Will this work for me?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-1...qid=1461587868&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+600B+600W

 

[lehtv]

Buy a unit with high quality capacitors and 5+ year warranty. I would buy S12II-620 $65 at minimum, or XFX TS550 Gold for $62 after rebate.

If you want true quality, Corsair RM650x for $80 AR is excellent - high efficiency, very stable, fully modular cables, extremely quiet, 10 year warranty (!!). You won't need another PSU for 10 years, and within that time it will pay back a large part (if not all) of the cost difference compared to an 80+ Bronze unit, thanks to a little lower electricity bills each year.

FWIW I think with an unlocked i5 and a high tier graphics card, your PC deserves the RMx

 

[thesmokingman]

As far as budget, I'm trying to not spend too much. I would like to keep it as close to $50 as I can, but will go as high as the $80-$90 range.

Will this work for me?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-1...qid=1461587868&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+600B+600W

The B1 units are for normal non gamer use so that is not what you want. I would look at the B2 units. From your link the 750w and 850w B2 units are the same price, and its a decent price too. I tend to buy bigger psus because they are cheaper in the long run and you only use what you draw so it's win win.


*btw

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=393

Cold testing

And what do we find? Well, a clean pass for Silver, that's what. Awesome... just like the 1600W G2, EVGA has under promised and over delivered again. A guy could really get used to this, though I don't know if I really like the idea of every unit from a company showing up more efficient than promised.

Hot testing

Once again we have a clean pass for Silver efficiency, so I have no problemo with that side of the unit's performance.

I'm wary of the Corsair RM series in general.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu

 

[MikeyLSU]

So all PSUs don't just use the power they draw? What makes the B2 that much better than the B1? What does it do?

 

[thesmokingman]

So all PSUs don't just use the power they draw? What makes the B2 that much better than the B1? What does it do?

Yea, psus draw what you use, so you could buy a 1600w psu and only use 400w. PPL tend to freak out when you have large 1600w psus for some reason though, I'm not sure but it freaks ppl out.

B1 is not as good of a core unit. B2's are essentially same quality as the G2's, the big ass superflowers.

 

[lehtv]

The B1 units are for normal non gamer use so that is not what you want.

Not true, there's no reason you couldn't use any unit for gaming, as long as it provides enough amps on the +12V rail without failing. Pretty sure all EVGA units are fine for gaming - the purchase decision comes down to longevity and build quality. The more you pay, the more you can trust the unit to serve you well over many years.

 

[thesmokingman]

Not true, there's no reason you couldn't use any unit for gaming, as long as it provides enough amps on the +12V rail without failing. Pretty sure all EVGA units are fine for gaming - the purchase decision comes down to longevity and build quality. The more you pay, the more you can trust the unit to serve you well over many years.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1500086/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-400-600-and-500b-600b

OEM on these units are HEC or as i like to call them the kings of crap as almost everything they have ever made is not very good

 

[UsandThem]

So all PSUs don't just use the power they draw? What makes the B2 that much better than the B1? What does it do?

The difference between a $30 and a $100 PSU is how well they are built and the length of the warranty.

EVGA's B1 line is decent. They have 3 year warranties and use cheaper components, with Chinese capicators being one of the concerns. Usually budget units also rate they can only achieve their stated rating when the temperature is under 30c.

The better units can have a warranty up to 10 years, usually only use Japenese capacitors, and provide their stated power output at 50c or higher. Some units like the EVGA P2 and G2 lines are so efficient, their fans do not even run until the unit is stressed and the temperature rises.

The best place to see the differences is at JonnyGuru.com. They are tested and taken apart so you can see exactly what you are paying for.

I generally go with a unit that Jonny recommends, and usually if you catch a sale or a rebate, they only end up being $20-$30 more than a budget unit.

 

[thesmokingman]

Be careful with price though as that is often used as a barometer for quality but it can also be misleading. You have to look inside the unit to tell.

 

[MikeyLSU]

so with the http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-1...qid=1461587868&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+600B+600W

How is the noise level? And will there be a difference from the 750w to the 850w? Is there any reason to get the 750 at the same price?

Thank yall so much for the help BTW. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 850

 

[thesmokingman]

Noise would be a non-issue in most cases, and with an 850 it should be even lower. The fan will only crank up if you are pushing it into hotbox temp range, which you won't because your rig won't be drawing power of that scale. All things equal, if there is little difference in price go for the bigger unit. You will have capacity later to upgrade, etc.

 

[lehtv]

http://www.overclock.net/t/1500086/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-400-600-and-500b-600b

Someone calls HEC the "kings of crap" and posts a big HardOCP FAIL stamp, and you parrot that without questioning. C'mon, don't be so gullible. Did you even read the reviews yourself? Also, since when has HardOCP been any sort of authority on PSU matters?

How about we judge the units on their own merits instead of who happens to be the OEM and what their reputation happens to be based on earlier collaborations with brands other than EVGA. I'm not saying OEM doesn't matter, but if you have actual tests and evidence that prove the unit works fine, then obviously OEM related fears are not substantiated.

Based on Techpowerup's review of the 600B, it is way more than the absolute minimum unit you could power a gaming computer with. The only downsides mentioned:

"Should have four PCIe connectors and some more peripheral ones would be very welcome"
Two PCIe connectors is enough for one graphics card, and it is typical of 600W units to have only two connectors. On that basis I don't agree with listing this as a downside, although having four would definitely be a plus. What's more, that the unit could handle two graphics cards simultaneously is definitely a good thing and indicative of the unit's strong +12V output, which is exactly what you want in a gaming PSU.

"Not Haswell ready (according to Intel's testing procedure)"
Irrelevant since you can just turn off the relevant sleep states in BIOS.

"Low hold-up time"
This is common and doesn't impact actual performance, and has nothing to do with using it in a gaming PC.

To sum up, the unit could me much worse and it'd still be passable. So what again is your basis for claiming this unit is not suitable for a gaming computer?

 

[lehtv]

Thank yall so much for the help BTW. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 850

850W is extreme overkill for your setup. Don't make that classic mistake of buying an overly high capacity unit when you could get by with a smaller similar quality unit for less $ or a better quality unit for the same price.

Corsair RM550x would handle your setup easily, you will be typically pulling less than 300 watts while gaming. The PSU will be very quiet, as RM/RMx/RMi are built specifically for quiet operation. In any case your graphics card will make the most noise in the setup.

 

[MikeyLSU]

Seems none of these are available at Frys

I was hoping to get something from Frys so I could go tonight, but I can't find any of yalls recommendations on their site. So I guess just amazon it is and just wait a few days.

 

[lehtv]

Fry's has the Corsair RM650i for $95 AR. Not bad at all, given that it's $115+ elsewhere. It's practically the same as RMx, just 100 watts extra compared to the RM550x and with support for Corsair Link PSU monitoring/control software.

Other than that, it's better to buy from Amazon/Newegg.

 

[lehtv]

I'm wary of the Corsair RM series in general.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu

Outdated and misleading information. :thumbsdown:

Corsair RM750 and RM850 were updated a year ago with new revisions where the OEM changed from Chicony to CWT and capacitors were updated to all Jap.

Corsair RMx and RMi are fully equipped with Japanese capacitors, and have always been. This information is easily obtained by reading reviews.