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I have my truck finished! With pics!

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<< Heck, have you ever compared the sound in say a Honda Accord to a Mazda 929? >>



I drive a 929 😀





<< #4 Install a stiffening cap, dispite what everyone says. I can crank my system, and my lights won't blink one bit. Its a easier load on your alternator. $100 on a cap or $300+ on replacing alternators every year... your choice. >>




better for your stereo, yes

better for your car's electrical system, no
 


<< 1 Farad? Good Lord, you could have some serious fun with that >>


Think I saw a guy at a show once that had a 15!!! That was crazy. Burped to something like 168 db
 


<< Power capacitor---- Rockford Fosgate 1.0 Farad

1 Farad? Good Lord, you could have some serious fun with that...

Viper GTS >>



I agree completely with Viper GTS. One Farad is a helluva lot of charge, won't it load the sh|t out of your alternator to charge that thing?

ZV
 


<< won't it load the sh|t out of your alternator to charge that thing? >>

Nah, you charge it w/the vehicle NOT running, and you put a resistor between the positive power lead and the postive terminal of the cap for about 5 seconds to charge it, then you remove the resistor and secure the positvie power lead. Ground terminal from the cap goes straight to ground (preferably the same one the rest of the system is grounded to...avoid ground loops that way)

I had a one Farad cap (monitor top 😀) on my 93 Civic and on my 98 Accord. Lights never dimmed. Not even with 400w RMS hard hitting, EQ'd bass. NO blown alternators either. Caps are the way to go.

EDITED for clarification.
 
Valhalla1,

No offense, but how do you figure you're getting 1500 watts RMS from a single amp? I think not. Not even 1500 watts peak. What brand/model is that amp? What size fuse do you have on the main power line? Just curious.
 


<< Valhalla1,

No offense, but how do you figure you're getting 1500 watts RMS from a single amp? I think not. Not even 1500 watts peak. What brand/model is that amp? What size fuse do you have on the main power line? Just curious. >>

I like to know to. the only amp i know that is close is from precission power. it is a 1200 watt rms AMP. has a fully regulated powersupply. I think tit was test for what it was rated at, just cant remember where.
 
nice subs monel. I love the JL audio subs. the sound quality is so nice. And damn yo have some power pushing them.
 
Hi Adul,

I remember that amp. It was about 12 inches wide and about 36 inches long! Big ass amp. Rockford Fosgate DOES currently make 1KW RMS amps. They require 0-gauge cabling and a 100-watt circuit breaker and about 1.5 Farads of capacitance to run with only a single battery.
 


<< Valhalla1,

No offense, but how do you figure you're getting 1500 watts RMS from a single amp? I think not. Not even 1500 watts peak. What brand/model is that amp? What size fuse do you have on the main power line? Just curious >>




the amp in the pics is for the subs.. 1200 watts class D mono pushing 2 12" subs. I have since added a second amp for the highs/mids, ~350 watts.
 


<<

<< Valhalla1,

No offense, but how do you figure you're getting 1500 watts RMS from a single amp? I think not. Not even 1500 watts peak. What brand/model is that amp? What size fuse do you have on the main power line? Just curious >>




the amp in the pics is for the subs.. 1200 watts class D mono pushing 2 12" subs. I have since added a second amp for the highs/mids, ~350 watts. >>



#1: That amp is pretty small for 1200watts....but it is Class D.
#2: Your subs probably bottom out like crazy @ full tilt......unless your box is horribly undersized like most peoples boxes are......or your subs have weak linear excursions :Q
 
Nice job.

I used to love big, overgrown, bass-0-whamic systems... but the first time my system got stolen (it was cheap... a $100 25W x4 amp and a lame-0 EQ... hey it was back in the day so shut up about the EQ 😉 ), I said... "that's enough of that" and ever since have stuck with factory install systems. In some cases, I was inclined to just replace the factory speaks.. but even then, I just though it wasn't worth it.

Guess a grew out of the big-bass phase of my life. 😀

I'm happy for ya, though. Congrats. Just don't break the china in my house with that bummmmpin'. My wife will strangle you. 😛
 


<< #1: That amp is pretty small for 1200watts....but it is Class D.
#2: Your subs probably bottom out like crazy @ full tilt......unless your box is horribly undersized like most peoples boxes are......or your subs have weak linear excursions
>>





1: It is a 1200 watt, . Cadence A7HC monochannel class D amplifier please dont try to tell me what I do or do not have
2: The 12's are 12" Cadence Beast subs that can handle 1200 watts EACH. trust me, they dont bottom out. they were MADE to go with this amp
3: the box is not undersized, its f-ing huge.. cant see how deep it is in the pics, but in firebirds there is a deel well where u put the t-tops where I have my box. this thing weighs 200lbs and is a couple feet deep and a few wide

and I dont give 2 sh.its about 'weak linear excursions'. All I know is that I can get a girl to orgasm when they sit on the hatch of my car with the bass pumping

 
Sound systems sounds great and all, but how's the ranger itself? Do you have the 3.0 or the 4.0 6yl? auto or manual? Is it decently quick? I've heard they get some traction problems in the rain in 2wd mode.
 


<<

<< #1: That amp is pretty small for 1200watts....but it is Class D.
#2: Your subs probably bottom out like crazy @ full tilt......unless your box is horribly undersized like most peoples boxes are......or your subs have weak linear excursions
>>





1: It is a 1200 watt, . Cadence A7HC monochannel class D amplifier please dont try to tell me what I do or do not have
2: The 12's are 12" Cadence Beast subs that can handle 1200 watts EACH. trust me, they dont bottom out. they were MADE to go with this amp
3: the box is not undersized, its f-ing huge.. cant see how deep it is in the pics, but in firebirds there is a deel well where u put the t-tops where I have my box. this thing weighs 200lbs and is a couple feet deep and a few wide

and I dont give 2 sh.its about 'weak linear excursions'. All I know is that I can get a girl to orgasm when they sit on the hatch of my car with the bass pumping >>



1:Is it 1200watts RMS? Of course you're going to say yes.....but judging from the size of the RF 1kw class D amp, I wouldn't doubt that it is RMS.
2: Bottoming out is not determined solely by the amp......and subs can't be "made" to go with an amp.
Those beasts subs are pretty decent overall.....maybe a bit weak magnetically, but overall good 🙂
3:I've seen the well on a new Camaro SS.....not very deep....their spec lists 1.5cf, and if it's anything like JL Audio's specs, you usually have to double the "purist" spec for any kind of real SQ. Or at least heavily stuff the box.

You don't have to give a sh!t about anything, but subs with 'weak linear excursions' wont get you much SPL. You're subs aren't one of these though 🙂

Interesting.....now imagine what they'd do if you had a pair of real subs like BluePrint's or the new Adire subs 😀
 
I dont know if its rms or peak, and I dont really care, because I cant turn the bass control up past halfway without having to get out of the car for fear of blowing my ear drums. its like someone is slamming the back of your seat with a baseball bat, mkay ? so really I dont care. also, I spend less than a grand on my system, I'm a college guy and dont have the cash for a grossly expensive system, and mine owns as it is

😉
 
Is that 152.7dB a legal score? I find it hard to believe that 3 12w3s with ~350w a piece in a sealed box (I'm assuming its sealed, unless you have ports hiding somewhere) can do over 150, especially firing into the seat...

What freq do you burp at?
 


<< I dont know if its rms or peak, and I dont really care, because I cant turn the bass control up past halfway without having to get out of the car for fear of blowing my ear drums. its like someone is slamming the back of your seat with a baseball bat, mkay ? so really I dont care. also, I spend less than a grand on my system, I'm a college guy and dont have the cash for a grossly expensive system, and mine owns as it is

😉 >>



Camaro's/FBody cars are notorious for huge peaks in the 50-65hz region. Good for max SPL, bad for SQ.
I bet it does hit you hard. There was a guy with quad 15inch Temptests in a CRX that hit over 152db with less power and still spent under 1g 🙂


BTW: Didn't you mention that you were gonna buy a Corvette a some months ago :Q
 
ha..yeah I'm going to get an SS Camaro instead.. I want a V8 as fast as a vette but cheap that I can thrash and not have to worry about maintaining resale value like u would on a vette. maybe when I graduate college (if ever)
 
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