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I got 99 problems and a clutch is one

Fenixgoon

Fenixgoon

Lifer
The backstory:

Driving along the highway, all is well, and I go to downshift and have an instant loss of clutch pedal pressure. Pulled over to the shoulder, no observable leaks under the car.

Have car towed to dealer. They pull the trans, and check the hydraulics for leaks - no leaks found on the master or slave cylinder. The pressure plate and flywheel show heat marks, which the dealer cites as evidence that the clutch has overheated and failed. The dealer insists a clutch replacement is necessary.

I talked to the people I bought the clutch from, and they said based on the pictures I provided, the observed heat marks on the flywheel and pressure plate are normal due to the materials in the friction disc. They say the loss of pedal pressure is almost 100% due to an issue with the hydraulic system.

Intuitively, I would expect a loss of pressure to be a result of a hydraulic system problem, rather than a problem with the clutch. There does appear to be some wear/damage to the alignment holes on the pressure plate and flywheel, which I would consider unusual, but it's hard to say whether that was a cause or result of the issue.

https://imgur.com/a/1Nn2d

Anyone in ATG care to share their knowledge/experience?
 
If you lost pedal pressure due to a clutch component failure, I would expect your pressure plate to be visibly damaged. My bet is on clutch master or slave cylinder.
 
Yeah I don't see a pedal going to the floor as a clutch failure, most definitely hydraulics. Your clutch doesn't look bad at all, this was mine when I replaced it and it was still driveable, with the main issue being the throwout bearing was near end of life: https://imgur.com/a/u8e9E

Hydraulic issue doesn't mean it will leak fluid outside the car, the internal seals in your master or slave cylinders could have failed...
 
96Firebird said:
Yeah I don't see a pedal going to the floor as a clutch failure, most definitely hydraulics. Your clutch doesn't look bad at all, this was mine when I replaced it and it was still driveable, with the main issue being the throwout bearing was near end of life: https://imgur.com/a/u8e9E

Hydraulic issue doesn't mean it will leak fluid outside the car, the internal seals in your master or slave cylinders could have failed...
Click to expand...

oh snap, dat clutch!

yeah doing some more reading, it is completely possible that the internal seals on the MC went - no leaks, but the pedal would go all the way to the floor.
 
Fenixgoon said:
oh snap, dat clutch!

yeah doing some more reading, it is completely possible that the internal seals on the MC went - no leaks, but the pedal would go all the way to the floor.
Click to expand...

Yeah..I would definitely have gone that route before pulling the transmission.
 
jlee said:
Yeah..I would definitely have gone that route before pulling the transmission.
Click to expand...

Me to, always start with the cheap easy stuff and work your way up to the expensive stuff. especially since the clutch pedal going to the floor is way more likely to be the MC than the clutch itself IMO.
 
told the dealer that i wanted the clutch master/slave replaced and new fluid with the system bled, understanding that the slave cylinder will be out of pocket (everything checked out, but may as well replaced it now that we're here) and the master cylinder may be covered under warranty if found to have failed (which i'm convinced it is an internal seal failure).

should have an update mid next week
 
For the future you can drive without any clutch hydraulics. Just have to rev match your shifts, shut the car off when you come to a stop, and use the starter to get moving again. Been there done that a few times.
 
monkeydelmagico said:
Aftermarket clutch?
Click to expand...

yep.

got my car back today - surprise, replacing the clutch master cylinder worked. dealer claimed they could not prove it was defective so no warranty action. also, my car came back with a nice whooshing sound that was not present before. if they moved the exhaust out of the way to pull the trans (not necessary) and didn't bolt it back up properly, i'm gonna be really pissed.

either way, not going back to that dealer. putting in a new clutch would have put me out like a grand, and wouldn't have solved my problem. neither the tech nor master tech considered an internal leak on the CMC. and potentially adding in a boost leak that wasn't present before? i am disappoint.
 
Fenixgoon said:
yep.

got my car back today - surprise, replacing the clutch master cylinder worked. dealer claimed they could not prove it was defective so no warranty action. also, my car came back with a nice whooshing sound that was not present before. if they moved the exhaust out of the way to pull the trans (not necessary) and didn't bolt it back up properly, i'm gonna be really pissed.

either way, not going back to that dealer. putting in a new clutch would have put me out like a grand, and wouldn't have solved my problem. neither the tech nor master tech considered an internal leak on the CMC. and potentially adding in a boost leak that wasn't present before? i am disappoint.
Click to expand...

Wait what?

Problem exists. Replaced part A. Problem no longer exists.

Seems rather definitive that the part was defective.
 
It really sucks when dealership service only cares about stealing as much money as possible from their customers. Then, when confronted, they double down on stupid and deny the customer the warranty coverage they are due. Makes my blood boil. What the hell good is having a warranty if the company won't honor it? Shame on Hyundai.
 
Take up the claim with Hyundai corporate. They care about their customers and will be able to push the dealer to do the right thing.

Really disappointing that they pulled everything apart to 'diagnose' when swapping the MC/SC would have cost less...
 
JCH13 said:
Take up the claim with Hyundai corporate. They care about their customers and will be able to push the dealer to do the right thing.

Really disappointing that they pulled everything apart to 'diagnose' when swapping the MC/SC would have cost less...
Click to expand...

I would do exactly this.

My Girlfriend had a issue with her Toyota Matrix, dealership denied warranty even though it was 100% a warranty issue, cost us $800 for the repair. Dealer we dealt with was horrible, disrespectful and dishonest. Took car to a family friend that is also a certified mechanic had him write up a letter on his company letterhead explaining his view on it and saying it was in his professional opinion a warranty issue. Sent it with a letter i wrote to Toyota corporate head office in canada and few months later got a letter back asking us to bring the car in to a local shop they gave us the address to, not a toyota dealership BTW a independent shop. We did, the mechanic there inspected it and the broken part which we had held onto, and came to the conclusion that it should be a warranty issue as well. He phoned up toyota corporate office and told them the results. Few days later we got a cheque in the mail for the repair costs, and a voucher for a free set of tires.

So we did end up getting it covered and scored a set of tires out of the deal. So worth writing a letter IMO.
 
whooshing sound was an air filter box hose to the intake manifold that was left disconnected.

I am writing an absolutely brutal letter to Hyundai USA. Hopefully they can correct this one way or another.
 
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