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HVAC type question What Makes more sense ....

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Most residential systems have improperly sized ducts. Therefore the top floor is always warmer than the bottom floor. If you have a basement, close the vents there. The vents on the main floor can be partially closed and the top floor vents should be wide open. At the thermostat, put the fan in the "ON" position. Let the blower run 24/7. It is better for a blower motor to run all the time rather than start-stop-start-stop every time there is a call for cooling. If those tips don't work, then it's time for a window unit. Keep in mind that a 110v unit will run up your electric bill quicker than a 220v unit. As the voltage goes down, the amperage goes up. As a last resort option, replace the furnace with a new furnace that has a variable speed blower motor and not a multispeed motor. 😉
 
Originally posted by: NascarFool
Most residential systems have improperly sized ducts. Therefore the top floor is always warmer than the bottom floor. If you have a basement, close the vents there. The vents on the main floor can be partially closed and the top floor vents should be wide open. At the thermostat, put the fan in the "ON" position. Let the blower run 24/7. It is better for a blower motor to run all the time rather than start-stop-start-stop every time there is a call for cooling. If those tips don't work, then it's time for a window unit. Keep in mind that a 110v unit will run up your electric bill quicker than a 220v unit. As the voltage goes down, the amperage goes up. As a last resort option, replace the furnace with a new furnace that has a variable speed blower motor and not a multispeed motor. 😉

Keep in mind that a 110v unit will run up your electric bill quicker than a 220v unit.

I'm pretty sure that's dead wrong. Does it cost twice as much to run an appliance in America than it does in Europe?
 
Seeing how you have ventilation slots in the attic, install an attic vent fan. Get it from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They are thermostat controlled, just wire into a 110 outlet.

Size of the fan should be based on the cubic footage of the attic and/or size of the vent opening. You may be having heat being trapped up there and filtering down into the second floor. The attic fan can push the hot air trapped in the attic outside; which will help the upstairs.

Mount it right against the louver slots. Half hour job when it is cool outside.
 
Originally posted by: markgm
Originally posted by: NascarFool
Most residential systems have improperly sized ducts. Therefore the top floor is always warmer than the bottom floor. If you have a basement, close the vents there. The vents on the main floor can be partially closed and the top floor vents should be wide open. At the thermostat, put the fan in the "ON" position. Let the blower run 24/7. It is better for a blower motor to run all the time rather than start-stop-start-stop every time there is a call for cooling. If those tips don't work, then it's time for a window unit. Keep in mind that a 110v unit will run up your electric bill quicker than a 220v unit. As the voltage goes down, the amperage goes up. As a last resort option, replace the furnace with a new furnace that has a variable speed blower motor and not a multispeed motor. 😉

Keep in mind that a 110v unit will run up your electric bill quicker than a 220v unit.

I'm pretty sure that's dead wrong. Does it cost twice as much to run an appliance in America than it does in Europe?
You pay for electicity by the kilowatt. A watt is volts*amps. So an a/c that uses 15 amps at 110 volts = to one that uses 7.5 amps at 220 volts. Upper levels are a b!tch to cool with a 1 zone system. Heat always rises,cool falls. Go w/ the window AC if the main unit is workinp properly. The attic fan wouldn't hurt either. And I am an expert in this particular field.
 
See post above mine. Attic fans are a fantastic way to remove the excess heat that builds up in the attic(if you have one, that is) I also installed two in my attic,one at each end of the house. They are thermostatically controlled and run until about 10 at night. The temp is set for 90 degrees in the attic, so I get the majority of the heat out of there and not sitting there all night causing my AC to run constantly.

If you are comfortable with climbing around your attic(do it early in the morning esp. in the summer!), the attic/gable fans cost around 150.00 or so(DIY) and probably pay for themselves after one hot summer.


Peace

Lounatik
 
We had the same problem with our house. We got the system zoned so that we have a thermostat upstairs and down. However that was about $1500 and not a $200 solution.
 
yah, as charrison, you have to make two different zones, one upstairs, one downstairs... the heat is obviously rising, so no matter what, upstairs is gonna be hotter than downstairs..
 
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