How would you mount this Monoprice 8.2 wallplate?

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Gunslinger08

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
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http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10425&cs_id=1042503&p_id=4013&seq=1&format=2

I bought this 3-gang wallplate a few weeks ago, and I'm trying to figure out how to mount it (new construction). I have some 3/4" ENT that I'm planning to run to each speaker in a 7.1 setup. This means I need a 3-gang box with three 3/4" knockouts on the left, at least 1 in the middle, and another 3 on the right. All my local Home Depot had were these: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=4618

These are single gang and accept 2 3/4" ENT (using a 3/4" terminator). I can use these for the boxes leading to each speaker, but I need something bigger for mounting this wallplate. Any ideas?

Could I add 2 of these onto one of the above? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm also on the lookout for something to mount my HDMI wall plate into. I'm probably going to run 2" rigid tubing to it.
 

herm0016

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Feb 26, 2005
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hd should have the big metal box. that is what i would use, unless they have the plastic equivlent. you can always drill a hole whatever size you need in a plastic box.
 

feralkid

Lifer
Jan 28, 2002
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hd should have the big metal box. that is what i would use, unless they have the plastic equivlent. you can always drill a hole whatever size you need in a plastic box.


The trouble with using that is limited space inside the box.

Also they are designed to accept outlets and switches, which are what the plate then screws into (holes in the box DO NOT line up with holes in plate).

They do make plastic "cheaters" that provide the proper plate mounting holes, but not as elegant a solution.
 

AlienCraft

Lifer
Nov 23, 2002
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The trouble with using that is limited space inside the box.

Also they are designed to accept outlets and switches, which are what the plate then screws into (holes in the box DO NOT line up with holes in plate).

They do make plastic "cheaters" that provide the proper plate mounting holes, but not as elegant a solution.
Of course they will.
Switch and outlet covers are made to mount to the switch or outlet(s).
A cover plate like this is designed to mount to a 3 gang box. You can see that the holes are equally spaced and at the top of the plate. It'll fit.
 

Gunslinger08

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
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P.S. wont work with ENT...but why are you bothering with conduit?

I'm running conduit in case I ever decided to upgrade my speaker wire/standards change or I have a problem with it. It would really suck to accidentally nail into my speaker wire after drywall is up.
 

vi edit

Elite Member
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Oct 28, 1999
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I'm running conduit in case I ever decided to upgrade my speaker wire/standards change or I have a problem with it. It would really suck to accidentally nail into my speaker wire after drywall is up.


You'll kiss yourself down the road for running it. I've already used it twice in my HT room to run additional stuff that I didn't plan for originally.
 

Gunslinger08

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
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You'll kiss yourself down the road for running it. I've already used it twice in my HT room to run additional stuff that I didn't plan for originally.

Did you run conduit to your projector? I'm trying to figure out what to do with that. I can't find anything flexible over 1.25", which would be pretty tight.
 

vi edit

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Did you run conduit to your projector? I'm trying to figure out what to do with that. I can't find anything flexible over 1.25", which would be pretty tight.

I've got 3" PVC conduit running to it (grey color). It's dirt cheap at Home Depot/Menards. I think 10' cost me like $3.

My room is unique though because it's about 4' off the basement floor with a crawlspace under it. So my conduit just drops out the bottom of the stud plate and available for easy cable access in the future.

1.5" just isn't going to cut it for HDMI IMHO. You need at least 2" for it to fit. If you do try...then use lube. Seriously. Wire lube. Look it up. :)
 

AlienCraft

Lifer
Nov 23, 2002
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I've got 3" PVC conduit running to it (grey color). It's dirt cheap at Home Depot/Menards. I think 10' cost me like $3.

My room is unique though because it's about 4' off the basement floor with a crawlspace under it. So my conduit just drops out the bottom of the stud plate and available for easy cable access in the future.

1.5" just isn't going to cut it for HDMI IMHO. You need at least 2" for it to fit. If you do try...then use lube. Seriously. Wire lube. Look it up. :)
He's got a point here. Jacket diameters are larger with A/V cable than with electrical wire AND they typically aren't as "slick". You would be removing any unused cabling, but then that could be used as a "pull wire".
 

Gunslinger08

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
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Here's a (crappy) picture of what I got for the boxes for each speaker, if anyone cares: http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/joshsquall/box.JPG

1 gang low voltage box with 3/4" holes top and bottom. 3/4" terminator that snaps in. 3/4" ENT will snap into the bottom of the terminator. It should look pretty professional and hopefully work well when it's done.
 

vi edit

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Here's a (crappy) picture of what I got for the boxes for each speaker, if anyone cares: http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/joshsquall/box.JPG

1 gang low voltage box with 3/4" holes top and bottom. 3/4" terminator that snaps in. 3/4" ENT will snap into the bottom of the terminator. It should look pretty professional and hopefully work well when it's done.


That's the same thing I did. It worked great. Just be mindful of what you plan to run in there. 3/4" isn't *that* big a hole. Getting one 12g speaker cable and an RCA cable through there for the sub is getting tight. Just for kicks since you are in the build phase, I'd go double gang and run two conduits to each box. You just never know WTF will be out 10 years down the road from now.
 
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