How to use a refreigerator cooling system for a PC cooler?

SinfulWeeper

Diamond Member
Sep 2, 2000
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I know there has to be a way to do it. It only makes sence, but I do not have the slightest clue how to do it. I live in rural Alaska so the company just had me photograph it and their sending me a new one w/o making me send my 'new' one back. Then I got around to thinking, there has to be a way to use the cooling unit on it to really cool my CPU, Northbridge, & VGA... hell maybe even my hard drives :D.

BUT HOW???, it is a shame to let such a excellent source of cooling goto waste :(

But please, no answers such as just put the computer in it :p
 

akira34

Golden Member
Jun 26, 2004
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It really depends on how much you want to do to the fridge. You could get an external water cooling unit, with a powerful enough pump and put the heat exchanger into the fridge (will need to drill holes into the side of the fridge to pass the lines through). I'd suggest using fluid that has a lower freezing temp (like the stuff you use in your vehicle). Run a power feed to the fan on the radiator (might take some more work depending on where you put the thing) and it shouldn't be tooooo difficult. Hell, with a powerful enough pump, large enough tank (keep that in the fridge too) you could probably cool the video card as well and get them too room temp. I wouldn't aim too far below that since you could get condensation on the hardware which is a bad thing.

If it was me, and the fridge isn't silent, I'd put it into another room so that I don't need to hear it running too. IF it is virtually silent, or lower in noise than the fans on the processor and video card, put it wherever it will fit in the same room. That will make for a shorter line run to the radiator. I'm thinking of hunting for a tiny fridge to do something like this with too. I'll need a VERY small fridge to fit in the same room (not a lot of spare room near the computer) and keep the line run the same length that the pump is rated for. I'll probably tie in another tank, and keep that inside the fridge too. Of course, that's only if I don't like the stock temps I get from the cooling unit and if I decide to try a VGA cooler too. I'm also thinking of gutting an older fridge that I'll get from a yard sale and mounting everything into a new box. I'd weld up something, insulate it, rubber mount any moving items (like the compressor and/or motor) and see how that goes. I'd put a window in it too so that I can check the fluid levels at a glance and not need to open it up to do so. If you're good with that type of thing, go for it (gutting the banged up fridge). Just make sure you put rubber guides around any holes so that you don't cut/krimp the lines.

Hope this gets the ideas flowing for you...
 

CidHighwind

Member
Jun 21, 2004
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You gotta take the motor, fan and copper gas coils out of the fridge.

Okay, it probably has a large metal fan thats louder than yoru computer could ever be; so find some kind of case to hide it into. This will be external.

First off, you want to get yourself a CPU watercooler kit. The longer the hoses; the better. Make sure it has a STRONG and SOLID pump. You only get one chance; as this will most likely void the warranty.

Now, dont use water in the 'cooler, use anti freeze. Theres no telling how cold the gas coils can get. Try to get a 'freeze that is not thick, to keep strain off the pump (that why I said get a strong one).

Now your choices are: run the stock watercooler hoses through the fridge unit if they are long enough, or hook them up to copper tubes and run them through.
 
May 26, 2001
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100% antifreeze will be less efficient than water...

You'd probably want a 70/30 mix if you want to use antifreeze....
 

Pathogen03

Golden Member
May 16, 2004
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Im sorry, ive done this before.. All you are speculating:




Rip out the innarts of the fridge. (puncture some extraneous tubing and drain the coolant out first)

You need the Compressor, Expansion chamber, Radiator, and Reservoir.


set it up in this order:


Reservoir into Compressor, tubing, expansion chamber, short tubing, CPU block, longish tubing, radiator, back to reservoir.


congrats! Put some Freon into the compresor (R134a) and you just made a badass Phase Change System EASILY comparable to a Mach II or other Prometria system.


Now if you want to actually put it in to your PC... the rest of your efforts are keeping tubing smooth and kink-free, and no condensation. Go to a hardware store and ask them about how to eliminate condensation. :)
 

SinfulWeeper

Diamond Member
Sep 2, 2000
4,567
11
81
Originally posted by: Pathogen03
Im sorry, ive done this before.. All you are speculating:




Rip out the innarts of the fridge. (puncture some extraneous tubing and drain the coolant out first)

You need the Compressor, Expansion chamber, Radiator, and Reservoir.


set it up in this order:


Reservoir into Compressor, tubing, expansion chamber, short tubing, CPU block, longish tubing, radiator, back to reservoir.


congrats! Put some Freon into the compresor (R134a) and you just made a badass Phase Change System EASILY comparable to a Mach II or other Prometria system.


Now if you want to actually put it in to your PC... the rest of your efforts are keeping tubing smooth and kink-free, and no condensation. Go to a hardware store and ask them about how to eliminate condensation. :)

Exactly the type of answer I was looking for. Thanks Pathogen03 :)
 

Pathogen03

Golden Member
May 16, 2004
1,056
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That will be $14.99

:)


Go check out www.overclockers.com and research home-made phase change.

Also go to some technical sites, you dont need to have a working knowledge of the formulas, but know the concepts. :)
 

tiap

Senior member
Mar 22, 2001
572
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0
Hey Sinfullweeper
Before you go chopping up that new refrigerater try bending it a little straighter and using it for a spare. If you follow Pathogen03's suggestion you may just be looking for a place to dump a bunch of scrap metal.
You need the Compressor, Expansion chamber, Radiator, and Reservoir
I seriously doubt that his project ever got past the bad dream stage.
He got 1 term right and that was the compressor. I'm guessing that by the expansion chamber he meant an expansion valve or capillary tube; by the term radiator I'm guessing he meant evaporator; and by the resevoir I think he meant condenser. There really is no resevoir as the system is under a static pressure of around 90psi and when running the high side depending on temperature can be as high as 240psi. Freon whether r12 or r134a or any other variant can be dangerous and is also a federal crime to release into the atmoshere Be aware that in order to keep those pressures contained you can't just solder joints of tubing, it must be silver soldered. Also the system must be evacuated with a vacumn pump to get rid of all contaminates to prevent the internal production of caustic acids. This can happen if simply an incompatable oil is used. And unless all this is done properly, the system won't last for more than a few hours or months until the compressor siezes and creates a condition known as black death, which litterally means you replace all the parts. Then you have the problem of dewpoint. This is like the condensation you get on a warm summer day on the outside of a glass. I'm sure you don't want that going on inside your case. Then if you don't have just the right volume of freon and pressures, the evaporator will freeze, and create more water inside your case.
Quite frankly, I doubt if a refrigeration design engineer from GM (Fridgedaire) could design a functionally reliable system with engineered parts in less than 6 months.
Check on some auto A/C technical websites or refigeeration websites. In fact email this topic to them for a second opinion. I think you would be amazed at the answers. I would hate to see you trash a functional refrigerator.
I've thought about this many times, I have all the tools, equipment and experience and I still can't come up with a viable solution with refrigeration.
On the lighter side, just for kicks you could put you box inside the refigerator with the moniter cable and other cords hanging out. Duct tape the door shut as best you can and after a few hours test the cpu and case temps. This shouldn't create any condensation as air conditioned space is automatically dehumidified as a byproduct. It should work, just a little cumbersome. I just got a Prescott and I'm thinking about cooling more and more. If you decide to try it let us know.
Good luck