How to remove an old cooking range?

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paulney

Diamond Member
Sep 24, 2003
6,909
1
0
Originally posted by: ChefJoe
Did you take a look at the feet at the bottom by pulling out that drawer ? I bet with enough grip you'll be able to pull it out. Would get some plywood to put down over the tile first. It seems like everyone in my immediate family has some under/over monstrosity of a range/oven and they can pull out with enough force.

Yeah, the feet are essentially monstrous bolts with little heads that keep this abomination level :) I'll see if can get them onto plywood - that could do the trick as well.
 

BigJ

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
21,330
1
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Originally posted by: paulney
Originally posted by: BigJ
Another thing to do before the appliance guy comes (after you rip out the stove)

Make sure the proper circuit is ran for it. I don't know what the hell that beast was running.

Also, check to see what type of cord comes with the range. You may have to buy a different one depending on the receptacle.

I can see it's a 3-phase cord, just like the one that washing machine uses. I don't know what the new ranges use, but I need 2 power outlets anyway (one for the range, one for the separate microwave/vent unit on top), so I'll be rewiring that anyway.

Ugh. I really want to buy tomorrow/day after to get the sale price. I'll see if I can schedule a delivery in 2 weeks or so - that should give me enough time to deal with this crap.

"Prong" not phase. ;) Also, when you say it's 3 prong just like the washing machine, do you mean like a regular plug or are you talking about an oversized plug?

What I really was referring to was the amperage of the circuit. Check in your panel to see what size circuit breaker the wires are attached to. Then check the gauge of the wire.

Your new range is probably at the very least 40A, if not a 50A model. It will also probably come with a 4-prong cord.

If the wiring/breaker is good to go, you can just go ahead and get a new range cord. Otherwise you'll be fishing new wire and might as well pop in a 4-prong outlet.
 
Jun 4, 2005
19,723
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Originally posted by: paulney
Originally posted by: ChefJoe
Did you take a look at the feet at the bottom by pulling out that drawer ? I bet with enough grip you'll be able to pull it out. Would get some plywood to put down over the tile first. It seems like everyone in my immediate family has some under/over monstrosity of a range/oven and they can pull out with enough force.

Yeah, the feet are essentially monstrous bolts with little heads that keep this abomination level :) I'll see if can get them onto plywood - that could do the trick as well.

Bolts? Grind the heads off.
 

paulney

Diamond Member
Sep 24, 2003
6,909
1
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Thanks for all the advice BigJ, I'll check tomorrow (don't want to wake up everyone shoving pots and pans in that range drawer).
 

BigJ

Lifer
Nov 18, 2001
21,330
1
81
Originally posted by: paulney
Thanks for all the advice BigJ, I'll check tomorrow (don't want to wake up everyone shoving pots and pans in that range drawer).

No problem. If you have any questions just shoot me a PM.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
8
81
Originally posted by: Jeff7
Originally posted by: paulney
Monster Range
Holy hell, you could microwave bulk beef in that thing. Not just alternator sized, more like a whole engine block. What is that, 1000 kilowatts? Screw Einstein, that thing nuked the apple that hit Newton's head.

When/if you do manage to remove it, check out the label to see when it was manufactured.
Bwhahahaha.....
 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
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Take off the metal panel in the center under the microwave. The metal panel is most likely attached somehow with screws under the microwave.

Remove the black panel above the microwave. The microwave is most likely screwed in from the top above the microwave. It might be secured on the sides next to the microwave, but I doubt it. Once you remove that panel, it should be more obvious.

Remove the pan storage from the bottom of the unit so you can see how much clearance you have, and when you break it free set the feet on some piece of wood or cardboard before you try to remove the beast.

Check the wiring as was mentioned above. I would strongly advise on a new stove install that is that old to replace the wall socket, even if it is the same voltages or prongs. Also, take the cover off and look at the wiring in the wall. If it is burned or cracked, you might need a bit of a rewire or pull up some new wire from the wall, if there is any slack, and cut off the charred ends for a new socket. Personally, I wouldn't want to risk a new stove with more power and with features like a self cleaning oven that might burn down your house the first time you use it if you don't check or replace this wall socket.

If it works, list it on Craigs list for free and set it next the curb. Even if it don't work, someone will want it for scrap or parts. It will be gone in 48 hours or less in most cases.

Good luck!
 

Eeezee

Diamond Member
Jul 23, 2005
9,922
0
76
Damn, that IS a tight fit! You really can't slide a dolly in underneath that thing? I find that hard to believe; you may scratch the tile, but you don't know if that part of the tile isn't already screwed up anyway.

Your other choice is to hire a contractor to do it. You know, someone with experience in these matters? It'll cost you more money, but if you get a good one you'll at least not have scratched up tiles.

Selling an oven + microwave all in one unit seems stupid to me, but I guess back then a microwave oven was as expensive as a stove/oven set. Now a microwave oven is one of the cheaper appliances.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Like SlickSnake said, I'm sure once you start you'll see what needs to be done. Even if it comes out in one piece I'm sure there's enough flex in that thing to slide a piece of 1/8" masonite/hardboard under it to give you something to slide it on.

Just make sure you don't pry against any ceramic tiles without spanning a couple with some 2X4s.



 

So

Lifer
Jul 2, 2001
25,923
17
81
Originally posted by: BigJ
Originally posted by: paulney
Originally posted by: BigJ
Another thing to do before the appliance guy comes (after you rip out the stove)

Make sure the proper circuit is ran for it. I don't know what the hell that beast was running.

Also, check to see what type of cord comes with the range. You may have to buy a different one depending on the receptacle.

I can see it's a 3-phase cord, just like the one that washing machine uses. I don't know what the new ranges use, but I need 2 power outlets anyway (one for the range, one for the separate microwave/vent unit on top), so I'll be rewiring that anyway.

Ugh. I really want to buy tomorrow/day after to get the sale price. I'll see if I can schedule a delivery in 2 weeks or so - that should give me enough time to deal with this crap.

"Prong" not phase. ;) Also, when you say it's 3 prong just like the washing machine, do you mean like a regular plug or are you talking about an oversized plug?

What I really was referring to was the amperage of the circuit. Check in your panel to see what size circuit breaker the wires are attached to. Then check the gauge of the wire.

Your new range is probably at the very least 40A, if not a 50A model. It will also probably come with a 4-prong cord.

If the wiring/breaker is good to go, you can just go ahead and get a new range cord. Otherwise you'll be fishing new wire and might as well pop in a 4-prong outlet.

Hehe. I was thinking the same thing: either you have a small industrial facility at your house and are paying bulk rates, or you don't have 3-phase power. ;-)
 

CADsortaGUY

Lifer
Oct 19, 2001
25,162
1
76
www.ShawCAD.com
As others have said - the microwave is supported by the cabinets somewhere. Be sure to find those spots otherwise you'll be buying new cabinets to go along with your new range.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
66,304
14,716
146
I saw someone already mentioned lowering the adjusting feet. That should give you a bit more clearance, but not much.

People who install ranges for a living have long nylon slides they use to move these things. (think of the nylon cutting boards, only very thin)

They work them under each side's feet, then gently pull the range out. Not only do they reduce the chance of damaging the flooring, they provide a slick surface to slide on.

Personally, if Sears won't remove the old one for you, I'd go to one of the local appliance stores and see if their installers would do it...besides, you can usually get a better buy locally than from somewhere like Sears where they can't negotiate on the price.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,769
19
81
Originally posted by: BigJ
How is the microwave supported? It has to be removable from the range.

I am willing to bet the top cover comes off and the cover between the range and oven too.

then the microwave can slide out and you'd tilt the oven back and get a handtruck under it.

There should be a modelnumber in the over door or under it where the pots/pan drawer is (probably on the left front side once you pull the drawer out).

Use the model number and search google for 'model number manual' or model number parts

places like partstap.com have exploded diagrams of all the appliances making disassembly a breeze.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,769
19
81
for getting rid of it call scrap metal places, they may want it. The microwave may be wanted by a college physics lab for it's magnetron.
 

paulney

Diamond Member
Sep 24, 2003
6,909
1
0
I actually have the manual, and the only way to disassemble it properly is to slide it out and remove the screws that hold everything together from the back. The very top is not the cover - it's a vent unit. You pop up the plastic, and it reveals vents that suck in the greasy smoke. I'm going to try and lower the assembly on the leveling legs and slide some plastic pieces underneath, then slide it out.
 

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
Staff member
Oct 30, 2000
42,589
5
0
Once you remove the bottom bin, you may have access to the frame.

If so, placing a dolly with supports under the main frame and then altering the leveling legs may allow you the freedom to slide the unit out.

If you can not get the clearance, then using a 2x4 to lift the frame up enough slide a thin sheet of plywood or metal under the leveling legs.

Either method should then protect the tile underneath (if there actually is tile).
 

Xavier434

Lifer
Oct 14, 2002
10,373
1
0
You have the right idea. This is what I would do:

1. Disassemble as many parts as humanly possible to reduce the weight. You can probably take off all of the doors, the drawer, and the burners at the very least.

2. Get some very thin/solid plastic and cover it with some kind of oil (baby oil since that is easier to clean?) to protect the tile.

3. With the drawer removed, see what you can do to grip it at the bottom. Gripping at the bottom and pulling will be a necessity here. You may need some gloves which help you grip it.

4. Remove the burners. Get two strong guys to help you. They may also need gloves. They will need to stand on both sides of this thing to pull it by gripping the area where the two front burners used to be.

5. Pulling from the bottom could be tricky. Be creative. There are different ways to do this. I would try lying on my back while gripping some area on the bottom where the drawer was removed. I would place my left foot against the left cabinet (left as in your left while facing the cooking range) and my right foot against the drawers on the right. If you are not straddled too far (this will depend on how tall you are) then you should be able to push with your feet and pull at the same time. If that doesn't work then try to grip the bottom another way. You need to time your pulling with your buddies in order to apply the most force.

6. Once you finally get it out, then you need a flat dolly with wheels. You will need to tip the range over some while having a lot of guys support it so that one of you can slip the cart under the range. Put the range back down and roll it out.


Good luck. This looks hard as hell.
 

Xavier434

Lifer
Oct 14, 2002
10,373
1
0
Originally posted by: Common Courtesy
Once you remove the bottom bin, you may have access to the frame.

If so, placing a dolly with supports under the main frame and then altering the leveling legs may allow you the freedom to slide the unit out.

If you can not get the clearance, then using a 2x4 to lift the frame up enough slide a thin sheet of plywood or metal under the leveling legs.

Either method should then protect the tile underneath (if there actually is tile).

Looking at the picture, unless he is able to slide it out some first, he will not be able to use a dolly because that requires the unit to be lifted up off the ground at least a little in order for the dolly to be able to roll it out. This is true even if the frame is accessible with the drawer removed. From the looks of it, there is not room between those upper cabinets and the range to allow that to happen. If I am wrong then this would be the easiest way though.
 

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
Staff member
Oct 30, 2000
42,589
5
0
Originally posted by: Xavier434
Originally posted by: Common Courtesy
Once you remove the bottom bin, you may have access to the frame.

If so, placing a dolly with supports under the main frame and then altering the leveling legs may allow you the freedom to slide the unit out.

If you can not get the clearance, then using a 2x4 to lift the frame up enough slide a thin sheet of plywood or metal under the leveling legs.

Either method should then protect the tile underneath (if there actually is tile).

Looking at the picture, unless he is able to slide it out some first, he will not be able to use a dolly because that requires the unit to be lifted up off the ground at least a little in order for the dolly to be able to roll it out. This is true even if the frame is accessible with the drawer removed. From the looks of it, there is not room between those upper cabinets and the range to allow that to happen. If I am wrong then this would be the easiest way though.
Looking at the pic, I agree compeltely.

The unit & cabinets look like everything was designed together. No wiggle room in the Z plane or side to side.

He will have to slide something under each level leg and then slide it out with brute force.
The upper section may be attached to the bottom of the cabinet for support - that will need to be investigated before doing anything else.

 

OutHouse

Lifer
Jun 5, 2000
36,410
616
126
strange. when we bought our Kenmore elite gas/ele combo convection range Sears removed our old one. but i paid like 40 bucks and for the that was worth it compared to the hassle of having the old one sit until i could take it to the dump or where ever.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,769
19
81
There is got to be some way they attached that vent to the stack.

I am sure this should come out without a major effort.

What's the model number?
 

MovingTarget

Diamond Member
Jun 22, 2003
9,002
115
106
That is actually a decent setup. If it ain't broke.... you know the rest. Now I would just try to disassemble as much as I could after disconnecting from power then sledge/sawzall the rest. Happy bashing!
 

paulney

Diamond Member
Sep 24, 2003
6,909
1
0
Originally posted by: alkemyst
There is got to be some way they attached that vent to the stack.

I am sure this should come out without a major effort.

What's the model number?

The vent is attached to the microwave via screws in the back. It's not attached to the cupboards at all - it simply recirculates the air back rather than vent it outside.

I'll tell you the model number tonight - it's an old Whirlpool, but I forget the exact numbers. They still have the manuals online for it, so you can see for yourself :)
 

paulney

Diamond Member
Sep 24, 2003
6,909
1
0
Originally posted by: MovingTarget
That is actually a decent setup. If it ain't broke.... you know the rest. Now I would just try to disassemble as much as I could after disconnecting from power then sledge/sawzall the rest. Happy bashing!

It's very cumbersome to use: the giant microwave takes so much space, you can't reach the pans and pots on the back burners without leaning over very close to the burners themselves. This stove had a small fire on it (oil started burning), and the knobs have melted a little.

Very hard to clean, too. We just hate it. I'll be a happy camper once we get rid of it.