How to remove a threaded galvanized pipe that is rusted in place?

[Tommy2000GT]

This may seem like a basic problem but it has stumped me.

On the outside of my house there is a threaded galvanized brass pipe that is screwed into a brass fitting. I'm trying to replace it with a threaded brass pipe because the inside is all corroded and is leaking.

I am unable to remove the pipe because the threads are rusted in placed so bad.

I tried soaking it in PB Blaster and tried using a torch and it won't budge. All I'm accomplishing is crushing the pipe with a pipe wrench.

Does anyone have ideas how I can remove it?

 

[C1]

Generally when something like this happens then the approach is to cut out and replace the bad section. If possible, cut out (or cut back) the bad section to where the integrity is satisfactory, rethread the pipe end and connect a suitable replacement section.

If the work needs to be done over many days while requiring the supply line to be in use, then temporarly patch it with high pressure hose and hose clamp.

 

[paperfist]

What does the pipe carry?

 

[Tommy2000GT]

Generally when something like this happens then the approach is to cut out and replace the bad section. If possible, cut out (or cut back) the bad section to where the integrity is satisfactory, rethread the pipe end and connect a suitable replacement section.

If the work needs to be done over many days while requiring the supply line to be in use, then temporarly patch it with high pressure hose and hose clamp.

That's going to be hard. The brass connector tees off into 3 different ways. 2 of them are soldered and one is threaded. This would turn into a big expensive job if pipes start getting cut and replaced.

I just wonder if their are any tricks plumbers use to remove rusted on threaded pipes.

 

[Tommy2000GT]

What does the pipe carry?

Just water. This galvanized pipe sits in between the water supply line and water spigot to make it longer. It was already like this when I got the house. I wish the plumber who originally did this didn't cheap out and used a brass pipe instead

 

[paperfist]

Just water. This galvanized pipe sits in between the water supply line and water spigot to make it longer. It was already like this when I got the house. I wish the plumber who originally did this didn't cheap out and used a brass pipe instead

When you're heating it up do you have the water off and drained? If not the heat probably isn't effective since the water inside is cooling it.

Sometimes you have to let the penetrating spray sit overnight to work.

Those are the only tricks I know other than using a long pipe on the wrench for leverage. You also want to put a wrench on the other pipe for support so you don't crush it.

For repair, w/o seeing it, sounds like you can cut out the galvanized and use shark bite to extend it back.

 

[boomerang]

Several things. Sorry if some of them sound condescending.

Are you heating the fitting? You don't want to heat the pipe, you want to heat the fitting the pipe is threaded into.

Is there water in the pipes? By that I mean standing water because you obviously have it turned off to not get soaked. If there is standing water, you need to drain those lines. They will soak up any heat applied and your efforts will be wasted.

You say a torch. A propane torch? If so, that may not be enough heat. You may want to get a mapp gas torch. Much more heat output. There is a chance you could apply enough heat to break the solder bond on one of those joints though so be aware.

Lastly, if you can crush the pipe enough, it will come out. You would want to crush it as close to the fitting as is possible which may mean cutting it off short if it's not short already. This is kind of one of those oh shit things where the pipe crushes a ton and you think that's the worst thing that could happen until you realize that the pipe is now loose in the fitting. You would need to crush it sufficiently to release the threads entirely.

Edit: Looks like paperfist covered some of this while I was typing.

 

[Tommy2000GT]

When you're heating it up do you have the water off and drained? If not the heat probably isn't effective since the water inside is cooling it.

Sometimes you have to let the penetrating spray sit overnight to work.

Those are the only tricks I know other than using a long pipe on the wrench for leverage. You also want to put a wrench on the other pipe for support so you don't crush it.

For repair, w/o seeing it, sounds like you can cut out the galvanized and use shark bite to extend it back.

I tried PB Blaster soaking over night and it still didn't work.

Yes I made sure to use two pipe wrenches. One on the galvanized pipe and one on the fitting so I don't inadvertently break a pipe.

 

[Tommy2000GT]

Several things. Sorry if some of them sound condescending.

Are you heating the fitting? You don't want to heat the pipe, you want to heat the fitting the pipe is threaded into.

Is there water in the pipes? By that I mean standing water because you obviously have it turned off to not get soaked. If there is standing water, you need to drain those lines. They will soak up any heat applied and your efforts will be wasted.

You say a torch. A propane torch? If so, that may not be enough heat. You may want to get a mapp gas torch. Much more heat output. There is a chance you could apply enough heat to break the solder bond on one of those joints though so be aware.

Lastly, if you can crush the pipe enough, it will come out. You would want to crush it as close to the fitting as is possible which may mean cutting it off short if it's not short already. This is kind of one of those oh shit things where the pipe crushes a ton and you think that's the worst thing that could happen until you realize that the pipe is now loose in the fitting. You would need to crush it sufficiently to release the threads entirely.

Edit: Looks like paperfist covered some of this while I was typing.

Yes I shut off the water but there was still some water in the pipes because it keeps dribbling out. I used a propane torch. So maybe these two things were the problem.

It's being crushed close to the threads. I already see some water seeping out. I'm afraid of crushing it more because it will leak more and might not come free.

Is there maybe some kind of tool out there where I can split the pipe from the inside?

 

[Humpy]

Nipple extractor.

 

[Greenman]

Generally speaking, when galvanized pipe is corroded to the point that it crushes when you try to remove it, you're pretty much screwed. The fitting it's going into is most likely copper, and it's going to be very difficult to remove it without damaging that fitting.
Before you reach the point of no return, have a plan for when the extraction fails, either an approach to how you're going to fix it, or the phone number of a plumber.

 

[Micrornd]

No offense intended, but,
1. Unsolder the tee connector and then remove the galvanized pipe and replace one or both as necessary (does require a medium skillset)
or
2. As paperfist said, cut out the tee connector and galvanized pipe and sharkbite it back together (probably easiest and requires the least skillset)