How to launch an FWD car?

dkm777

Senior member
Nov 21, 2010
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Hi guys,

I'm currently driving a FWD car that is quite rev-happy, i.e. starts making power at 4000RPM. I've watched a few videos about launching a FWD car, but they were meant for serious drag racers who are not afraid of breaking things. How would you suggest launching a car like mine? I tried building revs to 3000 then quickly releasing the clutch and flooring at the same time, but I get wheelspin. Then I tried less revs and fully releasing the clutch only when the car starts moving, but since my engine makes less torque than needed for lug nuts it just bogs down and I'm sure this method destroys the clutch really quickly. I'm not going to race or anything, just want to add something to my driving skills.
 

Ferzerp

Diamond Member
Oct 12, 1999
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I've watched a few videos about launching a FWD car, but they were meant for serious drag racers who are not afraid of breaking things.

A good launch is always going to be one of the most stressful things you can do to your car's drivetrain. If you're concerned about breaking things, then I'd advise you not to practice too awfully much. If you're getting wheelspin, you're actually being much easier on the car than a good, minimal spin launch.


Basically what I am saying is, doing it right is going to be hard on your vehicle. So, if you are worried, don't. ;)
 

tweakmonkey

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Mar 11, 2013
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A little wheel spin is usually a great launch in a car like this and usually gives a good 60' time. Bogging is hard on components and slow, and spinning too much is slow. You have to find something in the middle.

Just don't do any 7000 rpm drops and stick with your 3k or so, I imagine the car will still last a long time. I've never broken a drivetrain component and have launched 100s of cars. I used to drag race an AWD turbo car every weekend. Now THAT can be tricky.. Slip-dump to get the turbo going. Eats clutches.
 

Ferzerp

Diamond Member
Oct 12, 1999
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A little wheel spin is usually a great launch in a car like this and usually gives a good 60' time. Bogging is hard on components and slow, and spinning too much is slow. You have to find something in the middle.

Just don't do any 7000 rpm drops and stick with your 3k or so, I imagine the car will still last a long time. I've never broken a drivetrain component and have launched 100s of cars. I used to drag race an AWD turbo car every weekend. Now THAT can be tricky.. Slip-dump to get the turbo going. Eats clutches.


I guess my view is warped. I know what getting a good launch on my car does to the drivetrain. Broken axles, clutches, etc for the people who drag them often if they've switched to drag tires (street tires won't get enough traction to break things).
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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FWD/RWD doesn't have as much to do with things as people seem to think. FWD just means you have less traction because you're getting weight transfer off of the drive wheels. Just like a RWD car you have to modulate throttle and clutch to avoid excessive wheelspin, the only difference is that you are more likely to have that wheelspin.

Frankly, with an engine that tends to bog at low RPM you're pretty much stuck with slipping the clutch a lot to keep the engine in the fat part of the powerband as you launch.

ZV
 

LTC8K6

Lifer
Mar 10, 2004
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I wonder how that Caddy with the turbo 3.6 launches? Seems like it would tend to roast the fronts.
 

LTC8K6

Lifer
Mar 10, 2004
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Just checked and if you select the twin turbo 3.6 you are limited to awd.
 

marvdmartian

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2002
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Have you tried this method?? :hmm:

ZxZl8WJ.jpg
 

phucheneh

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2012
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Three choices: Slip clutch, slip tires, or break things. Pretty much the same as a RWD with the same motor would be.

Building revs while the wheels spin, as one would suspect, is not very effective for 'launching.'

Precise clutch control would probably be the fastest way off the line, assuming you're on normal tires. Slipping the clutch, while still not the most efficient thing, works to multiply torque and allow the engine to get into the 'power band' faster than if it was solidly engaged and forced to spin at the same rate as the wheels. Basically, you're trying to do what a torque converter does. Hence installing converters with higher stall speeds into go-fast cars.

But it's a fine line between too much load on the engine, or too much power lost through slippage. And even if you straddle it well, you're still slowly ruining your clutch.

Third option is, you know, revving and clutch-dumping and whatnot. Not recommended. Internal trans/diff components will cost more than clutches.
 

ipown1337

Member
Feb 12, 2013
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I'd suggest trying different rpm's, choose whatever gives a little wheel spin, but too much will obviously slow you down. Make sure the car doesnt bog down, also different road surfaces will yield different results. I have a front driver, i typically launch it at 4.5 grand, it's probably been over a year since I've launched the car so my experience is somewhat limited. Car 08 civic si, stock with a fujita short ram intake.
 

_Rick_

Diamond Member
Apr 20, 2012
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Thanks for the input, guys. I'll try different RPMs and throttle modulation. If anybody is interested, I drive one of these:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...ontansicht,_3._September_2012,_Düsseldorf.jpg

No power but corners like it's on rails. Sounds good for a 4 cylinder too. Oh, and the gas tank lasts for at least two weeks ^_^.

I knew what you were saying sounded familiar :awe:

I usually launch mine around 2.5k rpm, as that means less bogging down, but less clutch wear than 4k slips.

Actually it's very funny you cover this subject, because I think I am having some clutch issues with mine at 13500 km's. Engaging first isn't a problem, but dumping the clutch into second leads to much clutch slippage, where I used to get wheelspin instead. Hell, I used to spin them when shifting into third on winter tires...

Winder what I should do about it. Considering tbat I don't launch it that hard that often, maybe I shluld just go to the dealer and tell him that the car isn't going as it used to, and that the cljtch is knackered. Which at 13500 km is a bit early, and I never even raced it.

I mean, a car should have a clutch built to engine specs, with reasonable durability.

How's your upshift into second in anger?
 

dkm777

Senior member
Nov 21, 2010
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Swift Sport brofist! :D

Don't get me started about the second. Feels like shifting a truck - CLANGGGGG!. You shouldn't be having clutch problems so soon. Definitely complain to the dealer when on your next maintenance appointment.
 

DaTT

Garage Moderator
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Feb 13, 2003
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In your OP, you mention "quickly releasing the clutch"....does this mean dumping it? If so, try something different. Release the clutch quickly, but don't dump it....as many people above have already stated.
 

dkm777

Senior member
Nov 21, 2010
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I know what "dumping" the clutch means. No, it's not aggressive enough to call that dumping. Maybe "gentle dumping" :)? Now that _Rick_ mentioned clutch problems I think I'll refrain from launching my car... too often.
 

_Rick_

Diamond Member
Apr 20, 2012
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I know what "dumping" the clutch means. No, it's not aggressive enough to call that dumping. Maybe "gentle dumping" :)? Now that _Rick_ mentioned clutch problems I think I'll refrain from launching my car... too often.

As if anyone can resist power shifting into second on a ramp :$

I'll talk to the dealer in November, when it's time for the check-up anyway.
As I don't punish the disks too much, I'm almost thinking it's just the spring that's slightly out of spec and not forcing the disks together tightly enough/as tightly as last year. Or maybe it's just supposed to be this way?

How many km's does yours have, and how are those up-shifts? Can you get the front loose on the up-shift to second?
 

dkm777

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Nov 21, 2010
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As if anyone can resist power shifting into second on a ramp :$

I'll talk to the dealer in November, when it's time for the check-up anyway.
As I don't punish the disks too much, I'm almost thinking it's just the spring that's slightly out of spec and not forcing the disks together tightly enough/as tightly as last year. Or maybe it's just supposed to be this way?

How many km's does yours have, and how are those up-shifts? Can you get the front loose on the up-shift to second?

Still pretty fresh - just 3000. To those who say I'm destroying the car - the guy at the dealership and the manual said: first 1000km drive like a grandma, then oil change and check-up; after that - drive it like you stole it. And yes, I can get the front to chirp going to both 2nd ant 3rd.