How to fix stripped oil pan plug? *UPDATED*

[Northern Lawn]

I'm leaking oil from the plug on a 92 Sierra. Apparently it's really complicated to take of the pan. There are cross member pieces and... You'd think it would be easy.

Any solution to this? I seem to remember my garage not wanting to touch that cross member piece for some reason, maybe it was when I had the U joints replaced.


One other thing, I say it's the plug, oil is coming down right there but when I'm idiling I can sometimes smell burning oil. I hope that's not from inside the engine, the oil level is VERY low.

 

[Throckmorton]

You can bore it out and tap it to a bigger thread. I don't know how you'd get rid of the pieces of metal though.

 

[jagec]

That's what the filter is for, right?

He could probably use a magnet to get most of them, then put some used oil through and let it run out the hole to remove more.

 

[Throckmorton]

You could also try a new rubber washer. That way oil will go through the treads but stop at the washer. Or combine RTV silicone with the rubber washer for an even better seal

 

[LTC8K6]

First you have to make sure it's the plug that's leaking.

You can get a self-tapping plug, I believe.

Here is an example. I believe they are available at most auto parts places.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAP...3003&item=150398863003&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

 

[jlee]

You could also try a new rubber washer. That way oil will go through the treads but stop at the washer. Or combine RTV silicone with the rubber washer for an even better seal

If the threads are bad enough to leak, I'd want to fix that in a way that I'd be sure I wasn't going to lose the drain plug.

 

[exdeath]

The safe way to do it is pull the pan, because the correct way to do it is re-tap it which produces metal shavings.

Dropping a subframe is not a big deal. Support the engine from above with a cherry picker or from below on the crank pulley with a non hydraulic jack. You can disconnect a strut mount or control arm and just pivot the whole sub frame suspension and all hinged on the other side and let it hang there in the most extreme cases. Just watch the power steering hoses and brake lines mostly.

 

[Northern Lawn]

Thanks for the suggestions they where all great except this one:

Dropping a subframe is not a big deal. Support the engine from above with a cherry picker or from below on the crank pulley with a non hydraulic jack. You can disconnect a strut mount or control arm and just pivot the whole sub frame suspension and all hinged on the other side and let it hang there in the most extreme cases. Just watch the power steering hoses and brake lines mostly.

OMG, LOL!

I'm going to put it on ramps tomorrow and take a good look. I had one tire up on a curb today but I still couldn't get right under.

About loosing the plug... I thought that's what happened today. I just put this truck on the road last week after having it sit for about 8 months but today the oil stain under the truck was 10x bigger then it has been the last week. I'm always checking it as I park at customers houses, I'm thinking it happened because I put in a fresh litre of oil last night and it just leaked more. My engine didn't seize up on me on the way home so...

I like the idea of the self tapping plug but what about future oil changes? Is it a permanent solution or will that wear out the thing requiring larger and larger diameter plugs?

 

[jlee]

I am guessing you're not mechanically inclined? I had to jack up the motor in ViperGTS's Forester to change the oil pan. Annoying but not a huge deal if you have the tools. I cheated and did it on a lift.

 

[BUTCH1]

I doubt it's the plug, it might look like that because that is where the oil is collecting on and dripping from, possible the pan gasket (after sitting for so long) got brittle. If the vehicle had a problem with a stripped plug it would have been there before it got parked. Buy a Hayne's or Chilton's for the car and see what dropping the oil pan entails, it might not be as bad as you think and if your going to keep drive it check the oil VERY frequently and avoid any long trips..

 

[EagleKeeper]

the plug is at the lowest level; As stated above, any leaks will drain downward and collect at the plug.

Spray an oil degreaser all over the engine and then in a couple of weeks, go back and identify where the oil leak is coming from.
Yes, it could be the plug or some gasket.

 

[JCH13]

You can bore it out and tap it to a bigger thread. I don't know how you'd get rid of the pieces of metal though.

Two tricks to keeping metal shavings out of the engine:

-Use a heavy grease on the tap and drill, this will capture most of the chips and stick them to the tool. Go slow.

-When you're all done, dump a bunch of mineral spirits through the engine (through the regular oil fill is usually okay) to flush everything out.

This is what Flyin' Miata suggests when drilling/tapping a Miata oil pan for an oil return, and they really know what they're doing.

 

[Howard]

He could probably use a magnet to get most of them

Not if aluminum pan

 

[Ferzerp]

I may be just remembering poorly, but it seems every time I've had an oil pan off, there is always a magnet in it that inevitably has many fine pieces of metal on it already.

Or maybe I am remembering transmissions. It's been ages since I did my own work.

 

[JCH13]

I may be just remembering poorly, but it seems every time I've had an oil pan off, there is always a magnet in it that inevitably has many fine pieces of metal on it already.

Or maybe I am remembering transmissions. It's been ages since I did my own work.

Generally both have a little magnet in the plug, as fas I have seen.

 

[Ferzerp]

What I remember is a round magnet around the drain hole that one can clean through the drain hole.

 

[jagec]

Not if aluminum pan

True. Are they more common these days? I've always worked on older cars, which invariably seemed to have steel pans.

 

[Vetterin]

While you are under there check to make sure all the oil pan bolts are tightened down.

 

[JeffreyLebowski]

Like said, you really need to get that thing up so you can get under it and see where the leak is.
If you can smell burning oil you could have a head gasket leak, but if it's leaking as bad as you say my bet is the rear main seal or oild pan gasket is toast. If that's the case and you are not mechanically inclined, buy a new truck.

 

[Northern Lawn]

I thought I had it figured out.

The oil drips out of the plug, the wind blows in down the pan towards the transmission housing, then it drips onto the exhaust. That's why I would smell burning oil at red lights.


Anyway, there was no gasket on the plug and the plug was NOT stripped. So I went and bought a gasket and changed the oil at the same time. Went for a test drive and it still leaks...

It must be a cracked oil pan?

Above and to the front of the plug, the pan looked old and crusted with shit that peeled off in my hands. Not sure if it was just guck or corroded steel, it looked dented etc. The oil drops did form on the plug nut though.

 

[Northern Lawn]

If you can smell burning oil you could have a head gasket leak, but if it's leaking as bad as you say my bet is the rear main seal or oild pan gasket is toast. If that's the case and you are not mechanically inclined, buy a new truck.

A customer of mine said "Front Seal like to leak on these" but the front engine is dry. The oil pan was all oily and it looked like from there it traveled back to the exhaust. But I have to say there was also oil droplets on the (i think it's called a transmission housing) on the roundish, black thing between the pan and the exhaust... just behind the red oil filter in the picture. It was very oily there, my initial thought was the oil was blowing over the gap when i drive.

I hope it's something simple, I love this truck its' so big and roomy compared to my Ranger and pulls a trailer like it has no weight to it. I just sank $2200 dollars into it last spring for complete brakes, rotors and master cylinder... (I put power steering fluid into the brake system)

 

[Northern Lawn]

If it is a rear oil seal, what would that cost to get done at a garage approx?


EDIT:

Just googled this, sounds EXPENSIVE LOL!

drain the transmission fluid from the pan, remove the trans dipstick tube, disconnect the trans cooler lines from the trans, remove the drive shaft, remove the rear trans mount, disconnect the t/v cable, remove the torque converter cover, remove the torque converter bolts, remove the bell housing bolts, install two 6" long bolts in the lower bell housing bolt holes, and slide the transmission back. remove the flywheel bolts, and remove the old seal. reverse procedure for installation. there. don't have to remove engine or transmission.
Source(s):
former ase master certified gm dealer service/diagnostics/repair technician

 

[jagec]

Hard to tell where the leaks are on a dirty engine. Use some degreaser to clean that pan off really well, and the source of the leak should reveal itself shortly.

And yes, main oil seals tend to be pretty spendy. Gotta dig in there pretty deep to get to them.

 

[Northern Lawn]

Would anyone recommend a additive that can stop leaks?

 

[SparkyJJO]

Not at all. That stuff is all kinds of nasty.