How to figure out what is causing this

[mrblotto]

Hola everyone,

I still have my trusty-dusty 97 Celica. It's going on 313K now. It runs great.............except......

A few years back the distributor went out. I had to get it towed to the local shop, where they put in a rep dist. Ever since then, at random times, the engine will seem to 'pause' or 'stutter' for just a half-second or so. It's like if you hear the engine running normally, then you cover your ears for just a split second to block out that sound. That's the best way I can describe it. There's no CEL so I'm at a loss. I guess I'm more curious than anything (it's been a few years anyhow lol).

Since the distributor was changed, I would suspect that, but I would think it would throw a CEL or something. Same with the fuel pump if it was acting up.

Is there some sort of software (PC/Iphone) that I could setup and then just drive around normally and it would record info in real time so I could actually see something out of the ordinary?

I've got a regular OBDC scanner, but no codes show up

I reckon I could get a vid of it as well, but since it's so random I'm not sure if I can........

 

[NutBucket]

How old are the spark plug wires?

 

[mrblotto]

How old are the spark plug wires?

Good question. I think they were replaced when the dist was replaced. The dist, plugs, and wires were replaced I believe. I'll go out tomorrow and take a look. I think it would be pretty obvious visually if the wires were a few vs. *counts on fingers.....and toes* 18 yrs old lol.

Thx for the idea NB

 

[NutBucket]

Or you could just replace all those parts as they're cheap. Then at least you could eliminate those as possible culprits.

 

[Harrod]

How old are the spark plug wires?

This, I had an issue a few years ago almost like this, it was the spark plug wires.

 

[mrblotto]

Just ordered a set of wires (and plugs too, just because) from RockAuto.

We'll see what happens *crosses fingers*

 

[xBiffx]

I know it started happening after the distributor change and so it would stand to reason that something around that is the culprit but when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

Like you said, if it was fuel pump a CEL would probably show but what if its just low flow at times through the filter?

If the wire change doesn't work, maybe try that next.

 

[Drako]

What is this distributor thingy you speak of?

 

[xBiffx]

What is this distributor thingy you speak of?

An ancient symbol that could be wielded as a weapon against the forces of Cthulhu.

 

[razel]

Similar issue on a late 90's Celica. It was a loose spark plug cable after we replaced spark plugs. Since the distributor was touched and rubber parts wear I definitely would check that area and wiggle connections while the engine is on while you wait for your new spark plug wires.

 

[tortillasoup]

It could be the hall effect sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor, etc. Hall effect sensor is in the distributor. Make sure ALL your grounds are clean (shiny, don't scrape paint!) and check for any wires going into connectors being slightly loose.

 

[pcgeek11]

Similar issue on a late 90's Celica. It was a loose spark plug cable after we replaced spark plugs. Since the distributor was touched and rubber parts wear I definitely would check that area and wiggle connections while the engine is on while you wait for your new spark plug wires.

Carefully. Those spark plug wires will knock the crap out of you if it grounds through you.

 

[RLGL]

Carefully. Those spark plug wires will knock the crap out of you if it grounds through you.

wus............I do that all the time to re charge my pacemaker!

 

[mrblotto]

Update:

OK.....I was going to do the 'soapy water spray bottle trick' on last Monday (7/20).

Got home and saw a package on the porch. The parts had already arrived! So I'm thinking 'do I wanna wait till its dark, or do I wanna replace these parts while I can still see?'
Pulled the front of the car into the garage (out of the sun at least, but it was still stoopid hot....like Mid 90's

The wires DID look like they had been replaced. There was little dirt/dust/whatever on the surfaces. But I happily replaced all 4 wires and plugs. All 4 plugs looked about the same:

After changing the plugs and wires, I'd say the 'problem/situation/whatever' has maybe happened once or twice since, but definitely much less than before

 

[tortillasoup]

After changing the plugs and wires, I'd say the 'problem/situation/whatever' has maybe happened once or twice since, but definitely much less than before

You probably have a weak electrical ground considering the vintage of the vehicle. removing the spark plugs and putting new ones freshens up the ground a bit for better electrical conductivity. Did you replace the wire running from the distributor to the coil?

 

[NutBucket]

So you didn't replace the cap and rotor? At any rate those plugs look fine. I hope you got oem (or oe). Please don't say you got Bosch Platinum or E3 LOL.

 

[mrblotto]

Did you replace the wire running from the distributor to the coil?

No, I did not. A quick scan thru RockAuto yielded no results, probably because I dont know what that particular wire is actually called

So you didn't replace the cap and rotor?

Negative ghostrider. I reckon that'll be the next thing(s) to replace, along with the above mystery wire

Thanks again for your information. I'm rather a n00b when it comes to auto-related type stuff

 

[NutBucket]

Might be better off going to the local parts store. Cost won't be much higher and there's a 99% chance they're in stock

 

[mrblotto]

Might be better off going to the local parts store. Cost won't be much higher and there's a 99% chance they're in stock

True dat

 

[mrblotto]

Update:

OK, I finally got the chance to do some more stuff today. The wife's shoulder got monkeyed up somehow and I've been playing healthcare worker for a couple weeks lol.

Anyow, went down to Autozone and picked up a rep. distributor cap and button. They didn't have the 'coil wire' in stock, so I skipped it.

Let the car cool for a while, then took a look-see. Hello, what do we have here?
kinda looks wet/oily down there, eh?

yep, it's oil.....gah! I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be there lol.

So I disconnect the wires from the old cap and connect them to the new one so it's easier to remove the old cap.

Even the 'bottom' screw is oily

Onward! I take off the old cap and take a look inside:

And that's clean oil too. I had just topped off the oil last friday with maybe 1/2 quart. Looks like that may be where some of the oil is going, eh?

Next, I take off the old rotor:

I have no idea if the 'one sided' wear is normal or not *shrugs*

I toss on the new rotor, slap the new cap on and it starts right up, so I know I didn't screw up lmao.

The 'pausing' or 'stuttering' problem appears to have returned to it's 'normal' random frequency. I did happen to luck out and see the tach drop 100 or so rpm's at the exact same time the event happened. I'm thinking if the tranny were slipping, the revs would rise, not drop.

That's all for now. I'll see about getting the distributor seal (or whatever its called) replaced. Evidently that's what went out a few years ago and caused the car to go tits up in the first place.

 

[tortillasoup]

Update:

OK, I finally got the chance to do some more stuff today. The wife's shoulder got monkeyed up somehow and I've been playing healthcare worker for a couple weeks lol.

Anyow, went down to Autozone and picked up a rep. distributor cap and button. They didn't have the 'coil wire' in stock, so I skipped it.

Let the car cool for a while, then took a look-see. Hello, what do we have here?
kinda looks wet/oily down there, eh?

yep, it's oil.....gah! I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be there lol.

So I disconnect the wires from the old cap and connect them to the new one so it's easier to remove the old cap.

Even the 'bottom' screw is oily

Onward! I take off the old cap and take a look inside:

And that's clean oil too. I had just topped off the oil last friday with maybe 1/2 quart. Looks like that may be where some of the oil is going, eh?

Next, I take off the old rotor:

I have no idea if the 'one sided' wear is normal or not *shrugs*

I toss on the new rotor, slap the new cap on and it starts right up, so I know I didn't screw up lmao.

The 'pausing' or 'stuttering' problem appears to have returned to it's 'normal' random frequency. I did happen to luck out and see the tach drop 100 or so rpm's at the exact same time the event happened. I'm thinking if the tranny were slipping, the revs would rise, not drop.

That's all for now. I'll see about getting the distributor seal (or whatever its called) replaced. Evidently that's what went out a few years ago and caused the car to go tits up in the first place.

Replace the PCV valve if you haven't already. That can blow your oil seals if it's clogged.

 

[bruceb]

You might want to swap out the Distributor Coil ... they do go bad internally from time to time and will cause the issue you are having. But you also do need to find and correct that oil build up.

 

[BUTCH1]

Replace the PCV valve if you haven't already. That can blow your oil seals if it's clogged.

Yea, a lot of people overlook this and that's a bad thing because you wind up with positive pressure in the crankcase (specially on a car with 300+K ) and it wants to find a way out. If I were OP I would replace the valve cover gasket at this point, it's probably original and needs it.

 

[DaTT]

What is this distributor thingy you speak of?

Better yet.....what's a spark plug wires?

 

[mrblotto]

Update:
Dang, has it been that long (5 mos)? Yoinks!.....anyways
The valve cover gasket was replaced a few years ago when the timing belt/water pump was replaced.

I ended up getting a replacement distributor. Not OEM b/c they're stoopid expensive. I had also recently been getting the battery light coming on right after starting up in the morning. I know the battery was replaced about a year ago, but the alternator was original. So I also ordered a rep alternator as well (as well as fuel filter that I havent replaced yet).

I managed to do the alternator myself, but my mechanic did the distributor AND fixed the driver side door. I had been unable to open the door from the inside OR the outside for about 2 weeks lol. Was getting tired of crawling thru the passenger side lmao. Turned out it was a simple spring which was easily replaced.
So, anyhow, it's been about 2 weeks since the new distributor and not a single hiccup

Next I'm considering replacing the original radiator and possibly getting an engine rebuild kit (seals, gaskets, rings, pistons, oil pump) and new valves. My mechanic will be doing the work.

I dont rightly know if it's worth it or not. The car is rust-free and otherwise runs great. Just shy of 320K. I just dont want a new car payment every month (and higher insurance payments). I figure if I spend on average $500/year on maintenance/major work, it's more than worth it to keep for local/in state driving.

Edit: I also replaced the PCV valve and hose when I did the dist cap and rotor.