How to check if PSU is failing?

[aatroxed]

Older rig here...got a Seasonic S12-500HT 500W powering a Core 2 Duo Quad and a GTX 280 Superclocked.

If I play an intensive game like Diablo 3 for example, monitor randomly blanks out and although fans are spinning, nothing else going on. If I turn off the computer and boot from a cold start, I often get artifacts (covers whole screen) when I boot to windows and have to restart a few times before problem clears. Does this too if I put computer to sleep.

Is this a PSU problem or just the graphics card? Is there some software I could use that will log 12V readings? HWMonitor doesn't show 12V on my setup.

 

[lehtv]

If you're getting artifacts, it's almost certainly due to your GTX 280 crapping out. The monitor probably doesn't power off, it just goes blank because it's not getting a signal. That can happen when your card is unstable, I've had it happen plenty of times when testing for overclock stability.

Is it overclocked beyond the factory OC? What temperatures is the card at when gaming? If the temperatures are not too high, you could try supplying a little more voltage to it using some overclocking software, e.g. MSI Afterburner (which will also monitor temperatures for you).

 

[aatroxed]

Thanks. No modifications have been made, everything is stock. And I changed my wording to reflect that its more akin to a signal loss.

I taxed it a bit and temps hit max 68C for the card. My guess maybe low 70s if I were able to go on for longer periods.

I'll be able to RMA the card for free so that's not too big of a deal. However an evga rep told me though it might be linked to a bad power supply. I was wondering how to figure that out, just to avoid calling them again in 6 months (and possibly denied). He also mentioned finding out if the 12V supply to the card was stable which is why I brought up HWMonitor. I can't seem to find out where to see that.

 

[lehtv]

The only way you can know for sure is to try the card in a different PC with a known working PSU. Well, you could also try a different PSU in your PC, but there are more variables that way.

 

[aatroxed]

All right, its been a while since I made my own build. If I did go ahead and grabbed a new PSU - would a 500 - 550 W model give me enough headroom looking forward? Unlikely to ever run an SLI set up and moderate overclocking if at all of the CPU.

 

[lehtv]

Generally yes, a quality 500-550W unit will handle any single GPU setup, provided only moderate OC'ing. For heavier OC'ing and a high end GPU,like a 290X, 650W is not a bad idea.

Going by today's standards, your 500W unit is actually more like a 400-450W unit. It was built for PC's that didn't so heavily rely on +12V.

Are you buying from newegg.com or elsewhere?

Even if it turns out your PSU is fine (which I believe is probably the case), it's actually good cos then you can just keep it for backup, in case you ever need to RMA or troubleshoot your main unit.

 

[aatroxed]

Sorry for the old bump, I had to stall the project for a while. Just read up on the spec of the 280 GTX, it recommends a 550 W minimum (mine's a 500 atm). Any quick recommends for an upgrade PSU, I'm thinking 750W and fully modular?

 

[lehtv]

750W is way overkill for a single card, you could run two GTX280 or similar power (200W) cards off of a quality 750W unit.

It generally makes no sense to pay for full modularity over semi modular, because when do you ever need to disconnect all the cables? Modularity is fine for bigger units like 650W and higher, but not really needed for 550W and below (mainly because of four PCIe cables instead of two).

I would focus on getting the best bang for the buck unit. You don't really want to overspend on the PSU when all your other components are already behind the times and in need of upgrading sooner rather than later.

It's hard to recommend any particular unit without knowing where you're buying from (i.e. what's available to you and at what price).

 

[aatroxed]

Right on. I was thinking about the future when I'll take out the psu and put in a new tower with a new cpu, gpu, etc. Even then though I'd still be using a single card. Would that be still too much for a more current rig?


I brought up modular to hopefully clear up space in case and increase airflow. Would I save on going semi?


My budget max $150 + tax and shopping for anywhere really, newegg, ncix, that has a canadian facing site too.

 

[lehtv]

Any PSU that can handle your system will also handle a current single GPU system. Not only is your GPU in the upper bracket of GPU power consumption, but your CPU is more power hungry than current Intel CPUs.

Airflow is not going to be affected by modularity. Well, theoretically there may be a few percent of difference, but you will never notice it in any way whatsoever. Modularity is for ease of use and aesthetics.

What case do you have?

Newegg has a nice rebate on an Antec Neo Eco 620C, $55 with shipping. It's probably the best bang for buck right now. I'd pick between that and a Rosewill Capstone 550W $94 shipped... the Rosewill is kind of pricey but does have Gold efficiency and 7 year warranty, and there's nothing particularly interesting below that price, apart from the 620C. Of course, if you pay $100 or more you have more options, but I don't really see the point. Either of these units will be perfectly fine for a modern system with a single 200-250W GPU, even accounting for moderate overclocking.

 

[aatroxed]

I had been out of the game for so long, I just assumed I'd need to bump up the power requirements.

The case is I have is the Coolermaster CAC-T05 Centurion 5 ATX http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119068. Not designed to help with cable management.

Would you still skip on modularity if there was a chance you'd stick it in an mini ITX case that took standard PSUs?

 

[lehtv]

The case is I have is the Coolermaster CAC-T05 Centurion 5 ATX http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16811119068. Not designed to help with cable management.

Maybe you could just upgrade the case along with the PSU? Corsair 200R (ATX, $60) has basic cable management holes and PSU location on the floor. Combined with the Antec 620C you're looking at a bit over $100 for the upgrade in total, and a very clean, uncluttered look, even though the 620C is not modular.

Would you still skip on modularity if there was a chance you'd stick it in an mini ITX case that took standard PSUs?

I don't suggest going ITX unless you absolutely need to fit the PC into a small space, or make it easily portable. ITX setups are more expensive than microATX, and are more difficult to maintain and upgrade, while also imposing more restrictions on compatibility. Also, in many cases there isn't a lot of difference in size between ITX and microATX. For most people, the cons far outweigh the pros of ITX.

However, if I was sure I wanted ITX, then yes, I'd get a modular unit.

 

[aatroxed]

Before going ahead, I can't thank you enough for the help, literally, because the thread would be locked up for spam. Appreciate it.

So last update..

I RMAed the GTX 280 and got a GTX 570 in return, it also has the same 550W minimum spec listed. Another forum said I didn't have to worry, that my Seasonic S12 was good enough.

So far no problems, so maybe the last card was just a dud. Would you in my place still go ahead and get the new PSU Antec 620W?

Cheers,

 

[lehtv]

I RMAed the GTX 280 and got a GTX 570 in return

Really? GTX 570 is twice as fast! Wow... lucky.

So far no problems, so maybe the last card was just a dud. Would you in my place still go ahead and get the new PSU Antec 620W?

I'd replace it at the first sign of trouble similar to what you experienced before.

 

[aatroxed]

Yeah I was extremely lucky. I went from a 8800 gts to a gtx 570 for free.

Anyway, I noticed my monitor flickering in a very weird way and I'm too spooked to leave it up to chance. The Antec is only 44 bucks which is fine.

I did look up my voltages in the meanwhile on the old seasonic...what do you think? The 12V looks like its still within spec?

I booted up something like diablo 3 for a mini stress...

 

[lehtv]

You're allowed max. 5% deviation from the nominal 12.000V value. That's 10 times better

 

[aatroxed]

I did go ahead and contact Seasonic about it, here's the reply I got:

Dear consumer,
Thank you for contacting SEASONIC Technical Support Team.
GTX 570’s TDP is 219W , so S12-500HT is enough for your system.
Thank you.

Is that pretty much you're understanding as well?