How to build a proper car subwoofer enclosure?

[Howard]

Need some advice. TIA

 

[minendo]

Build a Sub Enclosure

Maybe that article will be able to help you out.

 

[Howard]

Thank you!

 

[Monel Funkawitz]

Follow air space requirements.

 

[pyonir]

<< Follow air space requirements. >>


along with that, use LOTS of screws and glue. make sure it is SEALED.

 

[Adul]

And make sure you use dense material of 3/4 inches. You do not want to feeling any vibration on the box itself.

 

[TomC25]

Don't make it just a square - it will create standing waves and that adversly affects the sound.

Try to make at least one slanted side so that it jumbles the air movement inside the box.

Have you noticed that most pre-made boxes have one slanted side.

MOST IMPORTANT - correct interior box dimentions - major factor.

If a box is too small it cannot produce low bass very well, on the other hand if the box is too big it will not be "tight" and will sound "boomy" and basically like crap.

 

[glen]

Use the trunk.
No box
more extention
more even response
less group delay

 

[glen]

here is a picture for you:
no box

 

[Howard]

I don't think I'm up for that. :Q

 

[Ns1]

<< Use the trunk.
No box
more extention
more even response
less group delay >>



All this from another board
From how i understand it, freeair setups cannot handle as much power as a boxed configuration, because there is no cushion for the woofer so you cant play it as loud without risking bottoming out the sub, and you still need a panel big enough to mount the sub to so the sound from the front on sub and the sound from the back dont meet or there is cancelation, so you minds well build the other 5 sides of the box while your at it.

as far as sealed boxes go, the smaller the box= the more power it can handle without bottoming out, but at the same time it wont hit really low.

so a bigger box has less cushion for the sub therfore allowing the sub to have more movement and playing lower, but then you lose some power handling.....to put it VERRY simply.

hope i helped


4.4.1 Infinite Baffle ("free-air")

Advantages...
No box necessary!
This means it's usually cheaper to design and implement in your system

Disadvantages...
Requires that a good seal be obtained between front and rear of driver. In a car, this can be quite difficult and may require the installer to remove trim panels to plug any holes that would let energy "bleed through".
The responsibility for damping cone motion rests solely on the driver's suspension. As fatigue sets in, this becomes a critical issue in infinite baffle set-ups.
Less efficient in the sub-bass region than above mentioned enclosures.
Potentially more expensive drivers than good boxable woofer - The suspension must be extremely hearty and long-lasting to withstand high power applications.


*just one of the 3 basic closed boxes*
4.4.2 Sealed Box Most popular
Advantages...
Small enclosure volumes
Shallow (12 dB/Octave) roll off on low end
Excellent power handling at extremely low frequencies
Excellent transient response/ group delay characteristics
Easy to build and design
Forgiving of design and construction errors
Disadvantages...
Not particularly efficient
Marginal power handling in upper bass frequencies
Increased distortion in upper bass over ported design
When using high power and small box, magnet structure is not in an ideal cooling environment


is what i found on www.mobileaudio.com{/url} [url...light=infinite+baffle "]according to this.... IB enclosures will sound like crap unless done properly

 

[glen]

I'll basically agree with that.
But, done properly, IB is by far the be sound quality.
I use it in my car AND in my home.