How much should it cost for someone to come out and look at a water heater?

[Cuda1447]

I have a leaky water heater, can't seem to fix it. I was just quoted a diagnostic fee of $125. Does that seem a bit on the high side?

 

[CRXican]

$75

 

[Binarycow]

service calls range anywhere from $50 and up depending on where you live and their local competitions.

 

[highland145]

Where's it leaking?

 

[BoomerD]

$125? Hell, they should do it for free!

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I have a leaky water heater, can't seem to fix it. I was just quoted a diagnostic fee of $125. Does that seem a bit on the high side?

If you give them the job to repair it, do they apply that $125 towards the repairs? A lot of places that charge "diagnostic" fees will do that.

 

[highland145]

$125? Hell, they should do it for free!

Diagnose and not fix for free? No. Maybe credit the $125 to the to the bill if they fix.

 

[PsiStar]

How old is the water heater? Older than 10 years and def more than 15, it is probably not worth it. And yours is leaking!:thumbsdown:

*Unless* the leak is a pipe fitting, it is not repairable. Water is highly corrosive and eats pits inside the tank. Eventually the pits extend all the way thru ... and it leaks.

So, considering the above, use your time to shop for a replacement & put the inspection $$ toward a new one and installation.

 

[alkemyst]

With all the DIY shops now too many people call the tech so they can do the job themselves.

Most charge higher but will apply it to the fix.

 

[Vette73]

As said wheres the leak?

If from the tank then just replace. Not a hard job if you know how to use basic tools and where your water shut off is.

Took me half a lazy day to remove the old 50gal and put a new gas one in its place.

 

[joesmoke]

ill come look at it for $20, but thats all ill do...

 

[Vette73]

ill come look at it for $20, but thats all ill do...

JS: Yep, thats a water heater. Did you know its leaking, you should replace that. That will be $20. :awe:

 

[joesmoke]

JS: Yep, thats a water heater. Did you know its leaking, you should replace that. That will be $20. :awe:

i dont recall doing any work in VA, but you are obviously familiar with my services. tell your friends!

 

[lupi]

Minor threadjack, I was just informed by others living in my house that they think I should do something about the leaking hot water heater. Of course my reply was as soon as I find out it's leaking.


So I took a look a couple days ago and noticed a small trickle stream of water moving down one of the three support legs onto the ground. Unit is about nine and a half old, making it about 6 months past the warranty.

My only real question is how hard would it be to swap it out myself.....and that question is not due to it being a NG unit as the gas line is a metallic screw in line, but the cold in/hot out lines are brazed welded copper pipes.

 

[highland145]

My only real question is how hard would it be to swap it out myself.....and that question is not due to it being a NG unit as the gas line is a metallic screw in line, but the cold in/hot out lines are brazed welded copper pipes.

Like most things, it's not difficult with experience. Ever soldered before? Gotta clean all mating surfaces, use flux, proper type solder. Will the new vent line up with the old or will you have to move it? Double wall vent pipe. Code in S.C. is 6" galvanized nipple(pipe) coming out of the hot and cold before joining with the copper. The pressure relief line has to be run right. etc, etc....

 

[rudder]

If you hire an illegal it will be $450... otherwise it should be $50 or less.

 

[Drako]

Minor threadjack, I was just informed by others living in my house that they think I should do something about the leaking hot water heater. Of course my reply was as soon as I find out it's leaking.


So I took a look a couple days ago and noticed a small trickle stream of water moving down one of the three support legs onto the ground. Unit is about nine and a half old, making it about 6 months past the warranty.

My only real question is how hard would it be to swap it out myself.....and that question is not due to it being a NG unit as the gas line is a metallic screw in line, but the cold in/hot out lines are brazed welded copper pipes.

The hard part is actually lifting it into place.

Everything else is pretty easy for most do it your-selfers.

 

[DrPizza]

If you take pictures, point out where the leak seems to be coming from, there are more than enough people here who can diagnose it for you for free. But, in many areas of the country, $125 for a service call is about right. Before having him come out, see if that $125 is applied to the labor to replace the tank or repair the tank (if possible.) It would suck to find out "That'll be $125 for the diagnostic fee, and another $125 to replace the dripping relief valve, and $3.95 for the part." (Actually, I don't know how much one of those valves is, and oddly, on the first page of google results, I didn't see a price; just a bunch of how-to instructions. That was as much effort as I was willing to put into finding the price.)

edit: just off the top of my head, the only "leaks" that are reparable are - leaking from where the water goes in or comes out (I can't recall ever hearing of someone having this problem), drain valve leaking after draining sediment - it not reseating well, pressure valve leaking after being tested, and on a gas hot water heater (at least the brands I had in the past), the metal below the flame catches the condensate that forms when the hot flue gasses contact the inside of the tank when the water is colder. It's usually only a few drips, but over time, it can corrode that little metal plate and start dripping onto the floor right below the center of the tank. When that plate is there, that water would be evaporated back off from the heat & go up the flue as the tank gets warmer. That problem is more obvious when the tank is first turned on and all of the water inside it is cold; especially so in the winter if that changes the temperature of your incoming water. (My well stays roughly the same temp year round. Back in the city, the temp varied by probably about 20-25 degrees.) And, it'll be more of a problem if the tank is undersized (runs out of hot water with regular use, i.e. small tank and family of 4 all taking showers one after another.) To see if it's this latter problem, you'll have to hang out next to the hot water tank during a period of high use. If you're feeling particularly wasteful, turn on every hot water faucet in the house & wait next to the hot water tank. If that's when it's dripping, that's the problem. If it's not, then the problem is something else.

p.s. water heaters are pretty simple to replace. If you're new to d-i-y, it's a good project to get your feet wet. (Pardon the pun.)

 

[lupi]

I'll have to take some pics of the water lines, but I don't recall much of a nipple form the unit of different material.

Yeah I've done a bunch of soldering, but minimal welding, even of the simple braze type.

 

[Rubycon]

If the tank is leaking it's punt time.

T&P valves dripping are common and a simple fix.

Tanks leaking on the bottom can be "fixed" by adding oatmeal.

 

[highland145]

I'll have to take some pics of the water lines, but I don't recall much of a nipple form the unit of different material.

Yeah I've done a bunch of soldering, but minimal welding, even of the simple braze type.

Should be fine on the soldering then. The galvanized nipple could easily just be the code here and the only reason I even know about it is because my bro is a plumber with 30+ years and he mentioned it on my last heater.

 

[MentalIlness]

Minor threadjack, I was just informed by others living in my house that they think I should do something about the leaking hot water heater. Of course my reply was as soon as I find out it's leaking.


So I took a look a couple days ago and noticed a small trickle stream of water moving down one of the three support legs onto the ground. Unit is about nine and a half old, making it about 6 months past the warranty.

My only real question is how hard would it be to swap it out myself.....and that question is not due to it being a NG unit as the gas line is a metallic screw in line, but the cold in/hot out lines are brazed welded copper pipes.

Mine did the same two months ago. My tank was leaking, I replaced it "it had copper lines" then ran PVC from the tank for a few feet. Which I actually prefer to copper anyway. Anyway, if your tank is leaking, get the new tank....install....and run PVC from it. Then just fit it to the copper.

Not hard to do.

 

[lupi]

here's the pics, water connections on top, relief on side, and leak and leg.

 

[Vette73]

Yea that looks likes the tank is the problem from those pics.


Time for a new tank.

Sears and Homedepot have good ones. Just make sure it is energy converving.

Don;t get it from lowes. The ones they carry have had some pilot issues.

 

[bruceb]

Can't see for sure if it leaking under the relief valve or not. But replacing it yourself is very simple. Hardest part is being sure the Gas connection does not leak. Put some plumber's pipe dope on the gas pipe thread before screwing it in. Turn on gas, leak test with soapy water .. No bubbles, you are fine. The water connections are either 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch copper pipe. Can't tell from the photos, should be marked on pipe. Get the same type. They make both Red & Blue letter on pipe. Different wall thickness. You will need some elbows, some straight couplers, and 2 sweat to male pipe thread to go into the new water heater. Personally, I prefer Rheem for water heaters. Very good quality.
All told, it should take even a novice diy'er no more than 2-3 hours to swap it out.

Step 1): Turn off Gas and Water Valves to water heater (inlet and outlet) and water supply to home (main water valve)

Step 2): Open faucets high up (hot and cold) to drain lines. Also connect a garden host to the fitting, open it an drain the tank of the heater.

Step 3): Disconnect gas pipe. Cut copper pipes for water inlet & outlet (tubing cutter)

Step 4): Disconnect vent stack

Step 5): Remove old water heater, put new one into place

Step 6): Dry fit all new water connections. Then clean all the fittings, flux, reassemble and solder all joints.

Step 7): Reconnect exhaust vent

Step 8): Reconnect gas supply line. Test for leaks.

Step 9): Shut faucets, turn on main water supply, inlet valve, outlet valve. Leak check.

Step 10): Light the pilot light and set temperature. You should be all done now.

More info and a video here:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20053957,00.html