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how long has your vehicle gone w/o an oil change

black , change it myself
Back before I used synth Id go at least 6k miles on dino for the last 20+ yrs
til about 4 yrs ago I switch to annual and synth changes from bi-annual

most went over 200k miles when I got rid of them and running well when I've sold them
 
7 quarts of Royal Purple 5W20. I ignore mileage and change it when it gets dirty, when the clear amber color starts to turn brown. Typically this coincides with 3-5k miles or 4-6 months depending on the seasons.

Synthetic *OIL* itself may last 150,000 miles for all I care, but unless it turns dirt into synthetic dirt that is better for an engine as well, I'm not leaving it in that long with the way I drive (upgraded boost and 7k tach burial at least once per drive) and the climate I drive in (dry hot dusty desert).

$71 for 7 quarts and a Motorcraft FL820S (Purolator) just yesterday in fact. I really need to stock up by the case instead of doing it on the spur of the moment and buying individual quarts from the local auto stores...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA

Convincing enough for me, considering independent tests have reproduced the same results 🙂

Though the increased horsepower claims and MPG and all that snakeoil I don't put any stake in; it's not even within the margin of error of repeatability for a dyno.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...rticle&id=53&Itemid=61
 
I "change" my oil about once a week when I'm forced to add another quart. 😛

1996 Subaru Legacy Outback 203k
 
Originally posted by: exdeath
7 quarts of Royal Purple 5W20. I ignore mileage and change it when it gets dirty, when the clear amber color starts to turn brown. Typically this coincides with 3-5k miles or 4-6 months depending on the seasons.

Synthetic *OIL* itself may last 150,000 miles for all I care, but unless it turns dirt into synthetic dirt that is better for an engine as well, I'm not leaving it in that long with the way I drive (upgraded boost and 7k tach burial at least once per drive) and the climate I drive in (dry hot dusty desert).

$71 for 7 quarts and a Motorcraft FL820S (Purolator) just yesterday in fact. I really need to stock up by the case instead of doing it on the spur of the moment and buying individual quarts from the local auto stores...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA

Convincing enough for me, considering independent tests have reproduced the same results 🙂

Though the increased horsepower claims and MPG and all that snakeoil I don't put any stake in; it's not even within the margin of error of repeatability for a dyno.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...rticle&id=53&Itemid=61

You get Royal Purple and change it every 3k-5k??? WOW that must get expensive.
 
Originally posted by: zerocool84
Originally posted by: exdeath
7 quarts of Royal Purple 5W20. I ignore mileage and change it when it gets dirty, when the clear amber color starts to turn brown. Typically this coincides with 3-5k miles or 4-6 months depending on the seasons.

Synthetic *OIL* itself may last 150,000 miles for all I care, but unless it turns dirt into synthetic dirt that is better for an engine as well, I'm not leaving it in that long with the way I drive (upgraded boost and 7k tach burial at least once per drive) and the climate I drive in (dry hot dusty desert).

$71 for 7 quarts and a Motorcraft FL820S (Purolator) just yesterday in fact. I really need to stock up by the case instead of doing it on the spur of the moment and buying individual quarts from the local auto stores...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA

Convincing enough for me, considering independent tests have reproduced the same results 🙂

Though the increased horsepower claims and MPG and all that snakeoil I don't put any stake in; it's not even within the margin of error of repeatability for a dyno.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...rticle&id=53&Itemid=61

You get Royal Purple and change it every 3k-5k??? WOW that must get expensive.

yea, that sorta defeats the purpose...
 
The car I'm driving now has an oil life indicator in the DIC. It came on indicating the need for the first oil change at about 10.5K miles. I changed it. The car has just over 19K on it now and shows 10% oil life remaining. When it tells me to change it, I will. Dino oil for me.
 
ITS OVER 9000! my car has a maintenance indicator that turns on on when to change the oil, it's normally around 7000 but i've been lazy to change it right now
 
My Accord is at something like 10000km or more right now

The onboard computer still says oil life 30% so its due relatively soon. I drove mostly highway during the summer
 
On my Mazda Tribute I usually go 7k and then change the oil and rotate the tires. On my Mercury Cougar I change it when the oil-change light tells me to, which is usually around 3,500 miles. 90% of the Cougar's driving is a 7-mile commute of city driving, so that's the reason for the more-frequent oil changes.
 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
Originally posted by: zerocool84

You get Royal Purple and change it every 3k-5k??? WOW that must get expensive.

yea, that sorta defeats the purpose...

Yeah it's overkill for sure, but it's only 2-3 times a year. But I can think of other things that cost just as much or more every month that aren't anywhere near as vital.

 
The longest I've ever gone was 4600 miles before an oil change. Aside from that, every 3000 miles, no exceptions. Just regular old 5w-30 dino oil in a Saturn. 128,600 miles and only burns about 8oz per 3000k miles.
 
Most cars/trucks in the US can do 5k on reg oil and 10k on syn.

Changing at 3000miles is a waste and old sales scam by oil change places and oil companies.

Also don;t use Fram.
 
Originally posted by: Marlin1975
Changing at 3000miles is a waste

Not necessarily. True the average person won't need to strictly adhere to 3,000 miles with new cars and synthetic oils, but it completely depends on the application and environment as is not automatically a waste. Something as simple as an older car with breathers instead of an enclosed PCV system is going to affect oil change interval regardless of quality of oil.

Simply having synthetic oil doesn't mean jack for the filter or the rate at which an engine produces combustion products or ingests dirt.

Great, the oil will last a million miles, but it's carrying a million miles worth of dirt and metal particulate and junk through the engine and through the dirty filter that started bypassing 990,000 miles ago.

Changing by mileage is only an estimate anyway. The real purpose of changing oil, even a theoretical perfect synthetic that never breaks down or needs to be changed, is the suspension of foreign crap IN the oil and the replenishment of detergents and other additives. An engine is not a perfectly enclosed hermetically sealed and isolated environment.

Hence I change my oil based on when it starts to become opaque and darken, which is coincidentally around 3000-5000 miles. That's enough for me to say the oil suspension is saturated and due for replacement. Of course that only applies for an engine that has been kept meticulously clean from the start; you'll go nuts trying to flush an engine out that turns the oil black as soon as you put it in.
 
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