If you can do all that other stuff, pulling a head isn't much harder.
Make sure to drain the coolant from both the radiator petcock AND check for a plug high up in the block or head. You also might want to leave it sitting a day or two (with the oil cap open) to make sure as much oil is drained out of the head as possible, DOHC heads can hold quite a bit of oil. It will be messy. You'll also want to have means to remove remnants of the old gasket and clean the block and head surfaces without damaging them.
Biggest pain will be removing all the stuff attached to the head, but most of the Honda's I believe have the engines upright and not slanted, so it's probably easier than most. Try to leave as much stuff on the head as you can (intake manifold, etc).
You might need a special socket for the head bolts. They typically aren't standard 6 pt or 12 pt sockets but can be star shaped or even require a star allen socket. Consult your manual to see what special service tools (SST) are required. In fact go through the whole process in your head with the manual step by step beforehand and think about any complications that could arise (eg: how do I remove that pulley bolt when the pulley turns?). Little tools like mirrors and flashlights that you might not even think about are a must.
Another pain might be that you could be required to remove the cams in order to have access to the head bolts. You'll want to loosen them slowly and evenly in a star pattern (pairs of opposite sides in both directions) and make sure each bolt and bearing cap goes back exactly in the same place in the same orientation. If it's DOHC, you might have issues aligning both cams with respect to each other when you go to reinstall, sometimes you need a special tool to lock both cams in place. If you don't have to remove cams, check for a cam angle you can set that keeps all the valves approximately closed so you don't have anything protruding. If it's high mileage, you might consider replacing valve seals as long as you have the head apart and checking lash if it's manually adjustable.
Take your time, keep things clean and free from dirt/dust, remove and retorque things evenly and slowly as your manual probably describes so you don't warp anything, take care not to scratch or mar things like cam lobes or bearing surfaces with tools, etc. Take time to clean all your bolts and LIGHTLY (as in still dry) coat the threads and bolt head undersides with motor oil or an appropriate thread lubricant/sealer (again consult manual).
Also check that your bolts are reusable and not TTY or torque to yield, or you'll also need a new set of head bolts (same goes for cam bearing cap bolts). TTY bolts stretch permenantly when torqued and are thus not reusable (manual should indicate parts that are non reuseable). Torque directions that have you torque everything , back off a specified angle, then torque again or turn a final angle after final torque value are usually single use TTY bolts.
As for the crank pulley? Just disconnect the coil or ignition module so the engine wont start, brace a breaker bar against the ground (or a jack of it's in the air and cant reach), and bump the starter. You might have a problem torquing it back down though without a pulley holder. Pulling the balancer might also be tricky without a claw type puller and/or slide weight (watch your fingers and don't put them between the balancer and body when you pull on it!!).
Make sure there is no debris or coolant in the cylinders when you reassemble. Blot up coolant but do not wipe down the bores or use solvents or abrasives. Bringing the pistons to the surface one at a time and scrubbing them down with a wire brush if they are bad is ok, just don't mess with the bores or the machined surface that the head contacts. And don't drop bits of gasket or bolts or any other junk in coolant or oil passages.
You definately need a complete head gasket set, not just the head gasket (includes intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and gaskets and o rings and seals for anything that has one and requires removal.
Also know if your engine is interference or not, as this will affect if you can freely turn the cams or crank independently once the timing belt is off.
If there is a distributor involved that you have to remove, you'll need a timing light (or you can dab a bit of paint between the distributor housing and head).
And of course when you're all done and eager to crank it up again and be proud of your work, don't forget to check and double check everything, look around and make sure you don't have extra parts and bolts laying around that didn't go back on, things like refilling coolant and burping the cooling system, turning the crank by hand through a few cycles and double checking valve timing before you tighten down the tension and things like that.
It's really not that complicated, just a lot of little details that can be overlooked and set you back a day if you're not prepared and have to order something or wait till morning to rent or borrow a tool. I'm probably forgetting a few things here. If you take your time and familiarize yourself with every nut and bolt, you'll be fine. It helps to not rush things especially if this is not your only transportation and you can afford to have it sit for a few days.
Have fun
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