How hard can it be to make your own motherboard I/O shield?

[AnitaPeterson]

Hi folks,

I just came across a motherboard without an I/O shield (a.k.a. "backplate")... I know some people don't even use them, but somehow I'm not too keen on leaving the ports exposed - and I don't think it looks too good, either.

I can order a spare third-party shield, but it's around $15 plus shipping and handling... Which got me thinking: How hard could it be to make your own?

Here's what I figured:

I already have a spare backplate from an old, dead motherboard. The metal is quite thin, so I believe I can cut it on the inside, leaving just the rectangular frame, with a bit of spare material on the interior sides.

I have a photo of the proper backplate for this motherboard AND I know what its dimensions are. It should be rather easy for me to trace outlines of the holes required for various ports, and reproduce them on a piece of thicker, transparent plastic (for instance, if I put the plastic on top of the image and then cut the desired areas with an Exacto knife).

Most importantly, I have some metal foil duct tape, which I can then glue to one or both sides of the piece of plastic, while at the same time binding the plastic to the frame created from the old backplate. This would strengthen the plastic, as well as block any electromagnetic interference.

The only thing this DIY shield wouldn't have would be the "legs" acting as springs between the actual motherboard and the backplate - and I don't think they're a real requirement, but more of a "good to have" feature.

Does this sound feasible to you? Has anyone else done something similar, to replace a motherboard shield?

----------------------

Later edit: It worked! Scroll down to post #26 to see the pictures of the finished product!

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=36995207&postcount=26

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Hi folks,

I just came across a motherboard without an I/O shield (a.k.a. "backplate")... I know some people don't even use them, but somehow I'm not too keen on leaving the ports exposed - and I don't think it looks too good, either.

I can order a spare third-party shield, but it's around $15 plus shipping and handling... Which got me thinking: How hard could it be to make your own?

Here's what I figured:

I already have a spare backplate from an old, dead motherboard. The metal is quite thin, so I believe I can cut it on the inside, leaving just the rectangular frame, with a bit of spare material on the interior sides.

I have a photo of the proper backplate for this motherboard AND I know what its dimensions are. It should be rather easy for me to trace outlines of the holes required for various ports, and reproduce them on a piece of thicker, transparent plastic (for instance, if I put the plastic on top of the image and then cut the desired areas with an Exacto knife).

Most importantly, I have some metal foil duct tape, which I can then glue to one or both sides of the piece of plastic, while at the same time binding the plastic to the frame created from the old backplate. This would strengthen the plastic, as well as block any electromagnetic interference.

The only thing this DIY shield wouldn't have would be the "legs" acting as springs between the actual motherboard and the backplate - and I don't think they're a real requirement, but more of a "good to have" feature.

Does this sound feasible to you? Has anyone else done something similar, to replace a motherboard shield?

Feasible, but a lot of tedium.

There are at least a few ways of doing it, or we can speculate about methods.

Auto-parts stores usually offer a roll of adhesive aluminum tape. I can IMAGINE modifying an existing I/O plate from another motherboard so that all ports are exposed as you would want. You could then use a schematic to cut the aluminum tape with an Xacto knife, probably by temporarily securing the tape WITH ITS BACKING to a solid, flat surface -- anything from a rigid piece of cardboard, foam-art-board to a glass table top would work. The trick would be cutting the holes. Further, you would want two such pieces of aluminum tape -- mirror images of each other for cutting the holes -- both secured in such a way as to preserve the backing material before you proceed.

Then you would apply these pieces of aluminum tape -- one from the back side, one from the front side -- to the modded I/O plate. The trick would be to mate up the holes perfectly. The tape would then be more rigid; there wouldn't be any exposed adhesive to trap dust. Hopefully, any modification cuts to the spare I/O plate would still leave enough metal that would further secure the aluminum tape and allow you to install the "frame" into the case.

the other way I can imagine would be to use a piece of Lexan, but the hole-cutting would be extremely tedious using a Dremel and several type of bits.

Is it really worth it?

You could also use the white or gray colored cardboard, for instance, like the material used for the retail package of an SSD, a hatbox, shoebox, etc.

Offhand, I would think such a piece of cardboard would need to be secured to the spare I/O plate (with additional modding cuts to make it hole-compatible with the hand-made match to the motherboard). I think that an adhesive like Pit-Crew automotive adhesive would suffice for that.

I've had more trouble recently obtaining Pit-Crew. Last time, I had to order it from a motorcycle shop in Massachusetts which luckily had a web-site. [Just proves how far civilization has advanced, to realize that Hell's Angels or the Mongols probably communicate on the web. But that shop seemed to cater more to the crowd fitting profiles of "Tokyo Drift" or "Fast and the Furious" characters.].

It's meant for use on a variety of surfaces and shapes including metal. It doesn't have much in the way of a petroleum-distillate base, but dries into something that feels like plastic -- stiff, but having a slight flex to it. You could literally pile it up along the extruded edge of the I/O plate-frame, pushing it down on the interior side of the frame to contact the cardboard. Even better, before adding the Pit-Crew along the edge, you could adhere it to any ribs or remaining tin of the replacement frame from the modded I/O plate.

I really wouldn't worry about applying more metal to such a cardboard solution as an RF shield. You'd likely still have part of the I/O modded frame to provide such a shield, and there's enough RF leakage from the case that this type of project leaving only cardboard between case-interior and exterior would not add much at all to the total.

You'd really have to make precisely measured cuts to the cardboard, though, and fit it just as precisely to the modded I/O frame.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

Excellent! I hadn't thought about cardboard, but it's certainly a possibility - and you make good points about the adhesive, too.

 

[DaveSimmons]

I've read about people using Reynold's Wrap / aluminum foil but haven't tried that myself.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Excellent! I hadn't thought about cardboard, but it's certainly a possibility - and you make good points about the adhesive, too.

Precision cutting is the best hope of doing that, and I think if I were to worry about it and put in the time, that's the way I'd go. I'll do ya one better, but it would still be hard to disguise the modding for "resale:" You can primer and paint the exterior side (at least) using a silver or chrome enamel. Or you could see if the aluminum tape works for you, but -- again -- precision cuts. (Maybe you could apply it in strips and pieces, though).

But there are other options, even if a tad messier.

Run down to Home-Depot, spend $2 on an 18"x24" AC fiberglass filter panel, or even buy those fine white vent filters that are about 6" x 12" (or so). Fill the gaps between the motherboard ports and the substitute I/O plate [frame] if it's sturdy enough to use. For Kruft accumulation, it's likely to have exhaust pressure, so it wouldn't load up with dust too quickly, and if you're anal retentive, you could simply replace the "stuffing" every couple years -- I'd think . . . . anyway . . .

Folks worry about "hazards" with anything similar to paper. I'd even heard that about foam-art-board, but a lot of things could burn if you have a fire starting in your computer. [Fa-chrissake! Enthusiasts oughtq keep a small fire extinguisher around, I suppose]. If you'd ever looked inside older electronic components, there's often cardboard inside the box. You're just designing a part of the computer case to fit. Nothing much more than the stickers on a PSU or a hard drive.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

I'm more concerned with dust and the possibility of a shortcircuit - or plugging something in the wrong hole, yay! - than EM intereference or fire hazards...

 

[master_shake_]

I'm more concerned with dust and the possibility of a shortcircuit - or plugging something in the wrong hole, yay! - than EM intereference or fire hazards...

the haf stacker comes with a blank...

might be able to buy it from coolermaster
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5809/cooler-master-haf-stacker-915f-chassis-review/index6.html

 

[DigDog]

do you even need an i/o ? i've had my pc without it for its whole life and never missed it. dust comes in anyway from the ventilation holes, unless ofc you have a completely dust-proof pc ..

 

[BonzaiDuck]

do you even need an i/o ? i've had my pc without it for its whole life and never missed it. dust comes in anyway from the ventilation holes, unless ofc you have a completely dust-proof pc ..

That was my point in my initial contribution to this thread. "Is it worth it?"

If you want a pressurized case, you can stuff filters between the I/O ports on the motherboard. Fiberglass filters and AC vent filters are so cheap, you can just replace the dirty ones with new ones, and it would take quite a while before even THAT would be worth it. You'd just wad up little pieces and stick them in there.

You may be able to get another plate from the manufacturer, but I think the usual custom I/O plate shipped with motherboards is as much for dust control as it is for RF emissions. I just don't see that small area -- obstructed by ports with the same type of metal as the mobo plate -- is going to matter for more than dust.

And I explained how to deal with it. Otherwise, the tedium of the Xacto knife on thin cardboard which you'd try not to crease or damage in the process. And the controlled mess of a glue like Pit-Crew.

All tedium, and trying to your patience.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

Oh, I don't mind tinkering with stuff... in fact, I look forward to it.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Oh, I don't mind tinkering with stuff... in fact, I look forward to it.

If you could only find cardboard like an SSD retail box with panels that weren't creased. 1.5" of either end of the stenciled I/O mod will have that crease in it. But once cut and glued -- not a problem, really. It just has to clear the working area of the ports, even allowing them to protrude through the cardboard. That way, no wear and tear. Could be great, but keep a sharpening tool or wheel nearby for the Xacto blade. When they start to feel dull on that type of material, they can tear it.

Otherwise, muster up all the patience you can find as you stencil and cut the ports. And get a steel ruler with finely-etched mm divisions . . .

 

[Micrornd]

Any big-box store has cheap one sided plastic signs (Beware of Dog, No Trespassing, etc.)
They are generally 1/16"-3/32" thick and stiff enough for an I/O shield, the back side is usually a solid color, and they are not hard to cut with a utility or razor knife.

For smoother, better fitting curves, place the plastic sign on a piece of wood to back it up and make it more stable, then drill holes of the right diameter for the radius of the curves.
Then cut the straights to connect the curves.
Cut it down to finished I/O shield size last, as the bigger piece is easier to handle and stabilize while fabricating.

And, yea, I have made a few

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Any big-box store has cheap one sided plastic signs (Beware of Dog, No Trespassing, etc.)
They are generally 1/16"-3/32" thick and stiff enough for an I/O shield, the back side is usually a solid color, and they are not hard to cut with a utility or razor knife.

For smoother, better fitting curves, place the plastic sign on a piece of wood to back it up and make it more stable, then drill holes of the right diameter for the radius of the curves.
Then cut the straights to connect the curves.
Cut it down to finished I/O shield size last, as the bigger piece is easier to handle and stabilize while fabricating.

And, yea, I have made a few

This is also a GREAT idea. Can't say if it's more trouble than stiff cardboard. I'd still recommend the same Pit-Crew adhesive, or something just as good that does the trick. And a drill-press, though not necessary -- would make things go a tad easier, I'd think.

 

[crashtech]

All these years if I didn't have the I/O shield, it simply got omitted. Never had any issue at all. Guess I am a buzzkill for this thread but I just don't believe it is an issue at all unless the system is for sale.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

All these years if I didn't have the I/O shield, it simply got omitted. Never had any issue at all. Guess I am a buzzkill for this thread but I just don't believe it is an issue at all unless the system is for sale.

And again -- I agree.

But you know our friends here: They're all anal-retentive perfectionist obsessive-compulsives!! They'll all admit it! I do!!

So -- yeah -- it is quite do-able to make your own I/O plate replacement.

And -- yeah -- it is tedious.

And likely -- no -- you don't really need it.

But some people still watch Saturday morning cartoons, which would be a good supplement to fretting over a piece of plastic or cardboard with an Xacto knife. Then, the enthusiast can tell himself: "See?! I didn't waste my time for nothing! I watched Mighty Mouse, Tom Terrific, and The Lone Ranger" [Oh. Sorry. Those were 50s/60s era Saturday shows. Hey! We got Media Center, don't we? :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:]

 

[Micrornd]

I'd still recommend the same Pit-Crew adhesive, or something just as good that does the trick.

Once you are satisfied with the openings, trim the plate to rough size slightly larger than you need, and then slowly reduce that to a proper fit.

Glue of any kind is entirely unnecessary with the plastic sign material.
If cut to the right size, it pops in place and stays, just as a metal I/O shield does.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Once you are satisfied with the openings, trim the plate to rough size slightly larger than you need, and then slowly reduce that to a proper fit.

Glue of any kind is entirely unnecessary with the plastic sign material.
If cut to the right size, it pops in place and stays, just as a metal I/O shield does.

Dawns on me that an interference-fit is not required. Even if it were loose, it would just hang on the ports. If the thickness is right, then it would just be jammed up against the edges of the I/O hole. Would it be about the thickness of the original tin shield? Maybe just a bit thicker?

 

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

You could use like 2inch celifain tape from inside the case, cover everything and tape beyond the O/I ports to the case. A couple strips your good to go.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

This has turned into a quite lively discussion... I like it! Very interesting ideas from various people

Haven't done anything yet, but I'll post pictures of the project - before and after.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

This has turned into a quite lively discussion... I like it! Very interesting ideas from various people

Haven't done anything yet, but I'll post pictures of the project - before and after.

Even though I still believe this is largely unnecessary, it is something I'd probably do myself -- just for being an anal-retentive extreme-tech-enthusiast. So -- yeah -- post some pictures.

You don't have to buy a plastic sign, but you might even do better than the cardboard. If you find an empty vinyl milk-bottle with a reasonably flat surface, the modding and tedium might also be easier. If it is a mainstream plastic material, you could use plastic primer and a silver enamel to make it look almost like the original. Of course -- you might shop on EBay and find a replacement I/O plate for that motherboard, paying no more than the price of the primer and paint.

 

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

Even though I still believe this is largely unnecessary, it is something I'd probably do myself -- just for being an anal-retentive extreme-tech-enthusiast. So -- yeah -- post some pictures.

You don't have to buy a plastic sign, but you might even do better than the cardboard. If you find an empty vinyl milk-bottle with a reasonably flat surface, the modding and tedium might also be easier. If it is a mainstream plastic material, you could use plastic primer and a silver enamel to make it look almost like the original. Of course -- you might shop on EBay and find a replacement I/O plate for that motherboard, paying no more than the price of the primer and paint.

TO bad we aren't politician huh? We could solve some serious issue's! Yeah a piece of plastic cut like an unfolded box, the use a soldering gun to cold weld it to shape. Or just use a cardboard cereal box, cut to shape its almost silver then use some tape boom done.
I too want to see some photo's of the finished product!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I'm sure we can spend an hour or two cutting our I/O plate from the materials discussed.

Meanwhile I decided I needed a couple I/O plates that seem to fit an entire sub-model set of ASUS motherboards. Somebody was selling them on the Bay for $10 each.

So it might depend on your desire, your energy, your time, and whether you think $10 ea. is worth it instead.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

Nah, it wouldn't be $10... the cheapest backplate I found for this model is $15, plus shipping.

I paid $30 for the motherboard (liquidation stock, open-box, from a reliable vendor...) so, honestly, spending ~60% of the total price for a piece of metal doesn't seem right to me.

Actually, I'm halfway through... I have the outlines printout (and I verified it fits), and I prepared the background plate. All I need to do next is to actually cut the plastic and attach it to the frame.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Nah, it wouldn't be $10... the cheapest backplate I found for this model is $15, plus shipping.

I paid $30 for the motherboard (liquidation stock, open-box, from a reliable vendor...) so, honestly, spending ~60% of the total price for a piece of metal doesn't seem right to me.

Actually, I'm halfway through... I have the outlines printout (and I verified it fits), and I prepared the background plate. All I need to do next is to actually cut the plastic and attach it to the frame.

This sounds like "relative cost-benefit analysis." I could agree: why pay 1/3 the price of the board? You could also look at "normal" board prices when resellers offered them, but I can't make up my mind as to whether that makes any more sense.

No -- DIY is a good thing. Now -- you'll have to post a picture or two when you've finished and trimmed it to fit the case!

What sort of plastic are you using? Where did you get it? Maybe I missed your specifics in an earlier post you made.

 

[AnitaPeterson]

And... done!

Pictures coming up later tonight