How do you remove a stuck bolt?

[boomerang]

On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Brute force is the only thing that's going to get those out and they're going to be messed up beyond repair afterwards. You're going to have to buy new ones.

If you have access to compressed air and an air hammer, that might work. They are a bitch, I've been there and done that. I watched a tech at a repair shop trying to get them out once also. He had to beat the living daylights out of them. The shank of the bolts are striated to provide an interference fit.

Oh and < - The Garage is that way.

Edit: You really, really don't want to heat the steering knuckle.

 

[FoBoT]

drill it out?
or cut it out with the torch

 

[homercles337]

Originally posted by: boomerang
On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Exactly. Where did these other guys get the idea that heating the bolt was the way to go? I suppose in some weird circumstance it could break the bond of the bolt with the metal, but that would have to be a REALLY old bolt.

 

[ItTheCow]

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: boomerang
On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Exactly. Where did these other guys get the idea that heating the bolt was the way to go? I suppose in some weird circumstance it could break the bond of the bolt with the metal, but that would have to be a REALLY old bolt.

Using proper technique, you're actually supposed to heat around the bolt. n some cases, it will actually help to heat the bolt as well since the expansion/contraction of the metal will sometimes break loose the corrosion inside the hole.

 

[Modelworks]

Try using a bolt extractor.
Depending on the bolt it usually works.
You can get them at autozone for about 5.00 for one or 20.00 set

 

[homercles337]

Originally posted by: ItTheCow

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: boomerang
On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Exactly. Where did these other guys get the idea that heating the bolt was the way to go? I suppose in some weird circumstance it could break the bond of the bolt with the metal, but that would have to be a REALLY old bolt.

Using proper technique, you're actually supposed to heat around the bolt. n some cases, it will actually help to heat the bolt as well since the expansion/contraction of the metal will sometimes break loose the corrosion inside the hole.

Uh, thats what i said.

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: boomerang
On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Exactly. Where did these other guys get the idea that heating the bolt was the way to go? I suppose in some weird circumstance it could break the bond of the bolt with the metal, but that would have to be a REALLY old bolt.

So you have never heard of using heat on a pressed stud? Same concept as this.

 

[alkemyst]

before you bang on a bolt put a nut on the end so you don't peen over the threads.

Also sometimes hitting the side of the mount is better than hitting the bolt directly.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: boomerang
On some cars those are an interference fit into the steering knuckle. Sounds as though that's the situation you're in.

Penetrating oil is not going to work and heat won't either. Heat it and the bolt gets larger. That's just going to make it tighter.

Exactly. Where did these other guys get the idea that heating the bolt was the way to go? I suppose in some weird circumstance it could break the bond of the bolt with the metal, but that would have to be a REALLY old bolt.

they got confused with the internet or watching a mechanic. You heat the nut, not the bolt usually.

 

[JeffreyLebowski]

Originally posted by: BlackTigers91
Have you tried using a cheater bar to the end of the ratchet for more torque?

My thoughts, forget all the fancy ways of heating it up or freezing it. Use physics. Get the longest cheaper bar you can find. I have a 4' pipe in the garage that will fit over the handle of my ratchet and it will get anything "unstuck"

 

[Jhill]

/thread

 

[DougK62]

Originally posted by: Jhill
/thread

I've been drenching it in that for days.


Some of you are suggesting a large breaker bar or pipe on a ratchet and that won't work - I have nothing to work with. The bolt is made to be struck to be removed - the head of it is round, nothing for me to put a socket on.

Thanks for the suggestions all - I will try these out tonight!

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

LOL at drilling out a 3/4" bolt. You people are nuts.

Have you looked closely to make sure your pounding on the end hasn't mushroomed or bent the bolt?

It would seem highly unlikely the bolt is stuck in the hole unless it is deformed or wedged by pressure somehow.

 

[OdiN]

Originally posted by: MrLee
This thread delivers.

BAD PUN BAN!

 

[boomerang]

A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

 

[DougK62]

Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats
LOL at drilling out a 3/4" bolt. You people are nuts.

Have you looked closely to make sure your pounding on the end hasn't mushroomed or bent the bolt?

It would seem highly unlikely the bolt is stuck in the hole unless it is deformed or wedged by pressure somehow.

Yeah, I checked out the bolt really well - it's straight. The others all came out with a single pop, this is the only stubborn one. It's definitely not wedged by pressure, and by looking at the exposed parts (head and threads) it isn't deformed at all.

 

[OdiN]

Pneumatics can fix it for sure. But I don't know if they make anything that is designed for that. It also might damage other stuff heh.

 

[DougK62]

Originally posted by: boomerang
A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I'm working with and have been trying to convey. The bad part is that this is on the rear of the car, so I can't turn the steering wheel to get better access to it!

 

[OdiN]

Originally posted by: DougK62

Originally posted by: boomerang
A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I'm working with and have been trying to convey. The bad part is that this is on the rear of the car, so I can't turn the steering wheel to get better access to it!

What better reason to upsell the customer on QuadraSteer?

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: DougK62

Originally posted by: boomerang
A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I'm working with and have been trying to convey. The bad part is that this is on the rear of the car, so I can't turn the steering wheel to get better access to it!

A pneumatic tool will get it out. An air chisel with a mushroom headed attachment. If that's not possible, your only other option is further disassembly. You need to remove the knuckle from the car with the strut attached. You can support it from underneath and you should then be able to beat it out fairly easily. Lots of leverage beating straight down from above. If it still won't budge, take the whole thing to the nearest auto parts store with a hydraulic press.

 

[alkemyst]

i am hoping this is not a ball joint or similar. If the guy posted the car it'd be easier to advise.

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: boomerang
A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

Yeah, I don't think a lot of people really understood what was going on. It's kind of a press fit spline, you can't turn it.

As for heating around the bolt. Yes, if you have an acetylene torch and you might be able to get the area around the bolt hot, but expect this to take about 30 minutes of torch time. By heating up the bolt you do two things, you make the steel a little softer so that it will actually be more easily compressed across its width which is what happens when you press something in and during the heating process you're hoping to break free any adhesion that has taken place through oxidation. Plus, it's quicker.

EDIT: and again let me say that you will have more luck if the thing the bolt is stuck to is supported and solid.

 

[1prophet]

Originally posted by: DougK62
So this bolt that I need to remove isn't budging. I have access to both sides of it - the head and the threaded end. You're supposed to just whack the threaded end and it pops out, but this guy is REALLY seized in there. I've been working on it for hours. I drench it in penetrating oil. I heat it with a torch, I cool it, I beat on it some more. What else can I do? Is there some sort of C-clamp device that I can buy to pop this thing out? Really frustrating - I'd like to hear what you all have had success with!

Thanks.

This is usually for ball joints but can remove stuck pins or bolts.

 

[Savarak]

strongest superglue + cheap and old wrench or something that will have enough surface area for bolt head contact + time + hammer....

 

[BoomerD]

You can probably rent a tool similar to this one:
http://www.bavauto.com//assets.../tool/tierodpuller.jpg