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How do you cut off a luann door without hogging it up?

shilala

Lifer
I have to shorten two interior doors. I've cut a lot of them in the past, but always hog up the top side.
I've tried taping the door and cutting through the tape, it still makes a mess.
Table saw?
 
Imagine you need the right blade for the job, and a quality table saw wouldn't hurt. Never done it myself, so, free bump.
 
Definitely table saw, with a good blade and high tooth count. I'd almost reccomend a plywood blade, but you'd likely burn it with that. Raise the blade up so the gullets clear the top of the piece.
I'd finish & poly the doors first - that should help it hold together. Also, score deeply along the finish side of the cut with a utility knife first.
 
Originally posted by: Zanix
Which goes to the inside (tward the guardrail) the skinny part or fatter part of board?

Your not going to find many consumer-level tablesaws that can fit a door the long way between the fence and the blade.
 
Originally posted by: Armitage
Definitely table saw, with a good blade and high tooth count. I'd almost reccomend a plywood blade, but you'd likely burn it with that. Raise the blade up so the gullets clear the top of the piece.
I'd finish & poly the doors first - that should help it hold together. Also, score deeply along the finish side of the cut with a utility knife first.

Thanks Armitage.
I was hoping against hope that I wouldn't have to drag my table saw up two flights of stairs (because I'm lazy), but if that's what it takes, that's what it takes.
I don't think I have a decent finish blade, so I'll pick one up at Lowe's.
I don't think either one of these doors will have a straight cut.
The jam is racked and the floor is crooked.
Wish I could just hang beads. 🙂
 
you could clamp a straight edge and use a trim saw. as others said, use a panel or plywood blade and score the line with a razor knife first
 
I just got done cutting luan underlayment (5mm thick)

After getting too frustrated trying to use a skill saw, I resorted to using a sheetrock knife and a straight edge. nice clean cuts
 
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: Armitage
Definitely table saw, with a good blade and high tooth count. I'd almost reccomend a plywood blade, but you'd likely burn it with that. Raise the blade up so the gullets clear the top of the piece.
I'd finish & poly the doors first - that should help it hold together. Also, score deeply along the finish side of the cut with a utility knife first.

Thanks Armitage.
I was hoping against hope that I wouldn't have to drag my table saw up two flights of stairs (because I'm lazy), but if that's what it takes, that's what it takes.
I don't think I have a decent finish blade, so I'll pick one up at Lowe's.
I don't think either one of these doors will have a straight cut.
The jam is racked and the floor is crooked.
Wish I could just hang beads. 🙂

Wouldn't it be easier to take the door to the saw??
In any case, if you have a *good* skilsaw, you might be able to do a decent job with that, but a tablesaw will be better. A taper cut on a big door might be pretty difficult on a tablesaw as well.

 
A good layer of quality masking tape on both sides of the cut, a good blade while pushing your circular saw slowly down the line you made should work well.🙂
 
Originally posted by: hippy
A good layer of quality masking tape on both sides of the cut, a good blade while pushing your circular saw slowly down the line you made should work well.🙂




Good one. Drawing your line right down the middle of the tape (I use the wide stuff) makes it easier to see, as well.
 
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: hippy
A good layer of quality masking tape on both sides of the cut, a good blade while pushing your circular saw slowly down the line you made should work well.🙂




Good one. Drawing your line right down the middle of the tape (I use the wide stuff) makes it easier to see, as well.

Go a little further and get a couple clamps and a straightedge. A long metal ruler would do. Use it to guide the circular saw.

 
On second thought, after re-reading your questions within this thread... I must recommend that you stay as far away from trying to fix anything. Powertools don't seem to be your best friends, LOL.

I've cut a lot of them in the past, but always hog up the top side. ~ I was hoping against hope that I wouldn't have to drag my table saw up two flights of stairs (because I'm lazy), but if that's what it takes, that's what it takes.

Whatever you do, If you have any loveones in your life... Stay away from that table saw. 😛
 
Originally posted by: hippy
On second thought, after re-reading your questions within this thread... I must recommend that you stay as far away from trying to fix anything. Powertools don't seem to be your best friends, LOL.

I've cut a lot of them in the past, but always hog up the top side. ~ I was hoping against hope that I wouldn't have to drag my table saw up two flights of stairs (because I'm lazy), but if that's what it takes, that's what it takes.

Whatever you do, If you have any loveones in your life... Stay away from that table saw. 😛

I was thinking he might have a cheapie 99 dollar Harbor Freight benchtop special or something.

 
I was thinking he might have a cheapie 99 dollar Harbor Freight benchtop special or something.

That's even scarier. Which seems more safe, carrying a 30lb cheap table saw up to the second floor to try and cut the bottom of a luan door off without dismounting it or trying to carry a real table saw up to the second floor only to realise that it was a bad Idea to begin with?😕
 
Originally posted by: hippy
I was thinking he might have a cheapie 99 dollar Harbor Freight benchtop special or something.

That's even scarier. Which seems more safe, carrying a 30lb cheap table saw up to the second floor to try and cut the bottom of a luan door off without dismounting it or trying to carry a real table saw up to the second floor only to realise that it was a bad Idea to begin with?😕

Here's my crap table saw.
The doors I have to cut down aren't in my house, they're at my apartment building.
I'm buying a blank for one replacement because the frame is okay. The only deficiency the door has is a 4" fist hole.
The other door needs frame and all. It's been kicked off the the hinges so many times that it more resembles soup than a door.
 
Originally posted by: Armitage
Definitely table saw, with a good blade and high tooth count. I'd almost reccomend a plywood blade, but you'd likely burn it with that. Raise the blade up so the gullets clear the top of the piece.
I'd finish & poly the doors first - that should help it hold together. Also, score deeply along the finish side of the cut with a utility knife first.

What a capital idea!!! I'll have to squirrel that one away for future reference! :thumbsup:


Oh, and...A HIPPY SIGHTING!!!!!! :beer: 😎
 
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