home-made hdtv antenna

ttown

Platinum Member
Oct 27, 2003
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So, I'm going to build the famous home-made hdtv antenna as seen

HERE ON YOUTUBE

But I have a question regarding splitting a single antenna's signal to 3 tv tuners.

In the video instructions for building the antenna, the tv's coax plugs into is a standard 300ohm/75ohm transformer connected to the antenna.

What I would like to do is share the single antenna among 3 digital tuners used in a htpc.

Question: should I feed the 300/75ohm transformer into a 3-way splitter? or just use a splitter? or something else? use 3 transformerss?
 

Born2bwire

Diamond Member
Oct 28, 2005
9,840
6
71
Originally posted by: ttown
So, I'm going to build the famous home-made hdtv antenna as seen

HERE ON YOUTUBE

But I have a question regarding splitting a single antenna's signal to 3 tv tuners.

In the video instructions for building the antenna, the tv's coax plugs into is a standard 300ohm/75ohm transformer connected to the antenna.

What I would like to do is share the single antenna among 3 digital tuners used in a htpc.

Question: should I feed the 300/75ohm transformer into a 3-way splitter? or just use a splitter? or something else? use 3 transformerss?

Hahah, what is this? Build your own log periodic dipole antenna?

EDIT: Ha, awesome. Yeah I would just feed it into a three-way splitter that's meant to handle the antenna signal. It's been so long since I messed with UHF/VHF feeds I can't remember if you need to pay attention to what splitter you buy. You can get splitters for cable, but I can't remember if they cover the same frequency range as the OTA signals. I would definitely nix the idea of using three transformers, you don't want to have extra baluns. I think the only caveat is that he splitter is going to reduce the signal strength.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
2,467
359
126
First of all, recognize that any splitter is built from "blocks" of circuitry that make a 2:1 split - you get two outputs from one, and each is slightly less than half the signal strength of the input. In numbers, each output is about 3½ dB down from the input. To get 3 outputs, you have two choices. First is, you split once, then put another splitter on only one of those outputs. That way you get one output 3½ dB down, plus two outputs 7 dB down. Whether you do this as two 2:1 splitters with a short cable between, or buy a 3:1 splitter, you get the same result. (But a 3:1 splitter is better here.) Second choice is you do the 2:1 splitter, then add a second level of two 2:1 splitters, one off each of the outputs from the first level. Result is 4 outputs, all of the 7 dB down. Again, a cascade of three splitters and two short connecting cables can do it, but you're better off to just buy a 4:1 splitter in one little box. For your case, you now have one extra unused output for later use. For best electrical performance, you really should buy a tiny 75 ohm impedance coaxial terminator and screw it into the unused output. It just looks like the connector on the end of a coax cable, but with no cable coming out and a tiny resistor soldered into place as the "center contact" in the connector body.

The only advantage of a 3:1 splitter over a 4:1 is that ONE of the 3 outputs has a slightly higher signal level than the other two. Unless you have one use (tuner input) that really needs every bit of signal it can get, this is no big deal at all.

If you find the signals are weak you can add in an amplifier. Be well aware that the amp will boost both the signal and the noise, so you may get a reliable signal at each tuner, but all of them may have some noise if your original signal from the antenna is weak. The only way to reduce the noise, really, is to use a better antenna that picks up more signal to start with.

If you're going to use an amplifier, it goes in between the antenna and the splitters - always amplify at the earliest possible point, closest to the signal source, before more noise is added. You need an amp that covers the frequency range of HDTV. Although I don't know what that is, exactly, I expect any that specify they work up to 1 GHz will be OK - that covers all the range of traditional VHF, UHF and cable systems. The only signals up to 2 GHz are satellite systems. My understanding is that all OTA broadcasts, old, new digital, and HDTV, are below 1GHz. Amplification of 10 dB is quite sufficient to compensate for the 7 dB loss from the splitters, as long as you're not going to run a long cable that adds losses. If you do have to run a long one, though, consider a 20 dB amp at the antenna, then the long cable run, then splitting to 4 users close together at the far end. BUT, if your 3 (or possibly 4 in future?) use points are all close to the antenna in the first place, best option is a box called a "distribution amplifier" which contains both a 10 dB amp and a 4-way splitter. The outside of the box will have one input and 4 output connectors, and it will claim either "no signal loss" (i.e., their amp has 7dB gain) or "outputs 3dB boosted" (they used the 10 dB amp).

I have one small quibble with the video. The voice claims the FCC is mandating that ALL OTA broadcasters go to HDTV by year end. I believe the mandate is digital signals (not analog) but not necessarily HDTV.
 

ttown

Platinum Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Hey thanks a lot for the explaination.

I'll definately consider all the combinations you suggested -- especially the distribution amplifier.

I think it would also be good to build in the 4 outputs earlier rather than later, which definately makes it future-proof.

Thanks again
ttown
 

SonicIce

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2004
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What is the purpose of the 300ohm/75ohm transformer? I just took a length of speaker wire and hung it in my window and plugged the end of it into the antenna hole on my tv and it works good.
 

Born2bwire

Diamond Member
Oct 28, 2005
9,840
6
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Originally posted by: SonicIce
What is the purpose of the 300ohm/75ohm transformer? I just took a length of speaker wire and hung it in my window and plugged the end of it into the antenna hole on my tv and it works good.

It does two things. First, it acts as a balun. Many antennas, like a dipole antenna, Yagi-Uda, or Log-Periodic Dipole, require that you drive the antenna with two signal currents that are 180 degrees out of phase. This called a balanced current. However, the current from most cables, like a coax, is unbalanced. And so if you were to naively hook up the ground and signal lines from your coax to the two terminals on a dipole antenna, it would not work. So you use a balun which converts the unbalanced current to a balanced crrent and feeds it to the antenna. When you just used a length of speaker wire in your TV you setup what is known as a whip antenna which, like a monopole antenna, does not need to use balanced current. This is because a whip/monopole antenna is only half of a dipole antenna. They are mounted above a ground plane. The ground plane, via image theory, will create the second part of the antenna with the needed 180 degree out of phase current. An easy way to make a simple monopole antenna is to strip back a coax cable to reveal only the signal line. Drill a hole through a copper plate and feed the signal line through the hole (make sure the signal line is straight and is not in contact to the plate) and make the plate flush with the cable where you started to strip. Solder the ground shielding of the coax to the plate and voila! an easy quarter-wave monopole.

The second thing is that the impedance of an antenna is not necessarily the impedance of the cable that you are connecting it to. If you have mismatched impedances, then this will reduce the amount of power received from the antenna and transmitted from the antenna. So you need to have a transformer that will match the antenna's output impedance to the cable's input impedance. Ideally, you match the impedances all through the system, from antenna to feed to receiver, to minimize your power losses due to mismatch. An interesting aside, impedance mismatching is generally grossly ignored audio cables. People fret over all this stuff but they always use cables that are mismatched to the connectors and so on. It really doesn't matter in any way with the extremely low frequencies of analog audio signals (this is paid attention to with digital transports though) but I find it an amusing quirk.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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Born is quite right in everything he says. I agree that impedance matching often has been ignored in audio cabling, mainly because it was not too hard to compensate for some of the resulting problems. A mismatch creates two types of trouble. One is that it creates reflections of the waves traveling down the transmission line (the cable), resulting in standing wave patterns in the line that simply waste power by converting it into heat in the cable. Hence the result at the output end of the cable is lower signal. In the audio frequency range, the wavelengths are so long they well exceed the physical length of most cables, so this appears to be less of a problem. But more importantly, you always had the option of cranking up the amplifier to compensate for lower signals, and you didn't really notice the problem. Of course, doing that would raise the noise level, too, because an amp can't change the signal/noise ratio in the input signal, but who notices that?

The second problem type is that the effects of impedance mismatch are frequency-dependent, typically causing a larger effect at higher frequencies. For audio signal again, this could be compensated by adjusting the frequency response curve of the amplifier, giving it a higher boost at higher frequencies. But if you required accurate transmission of complex waveforms (not just simple sine waves) this effect creates distortion by both attenuation and phase shifts, and compensation is more difficult. Avoiding impedance mismatch is the better way to deal with this.

All these effects are more significant at higher frequencies, so for the consumer it has been almost a non-issue in audio equipment. (The first place most consumers encounter impedance matching is in TV antenna systems operating in the 50 to 1000 MHz region.) I say almost because two areas have had attention: inputs and outputs. Both are places where maximum use of the signal is important. At the input end, the signals are small and losing some, with resultant poorer signal-to-noise ratio coming through the amplifier, is not a good idea. So attention has been paid to matching the impedance of the signal source to that of the amplifier input stage. Still, often the impedance characteristics of the transmission line (cable) between these has been ignored. At the other end, some attention is paid to impedance matching between amp output stage and speakers, because there's a lot of power moving around here and losing a significant fraction both causes cost and creates overheating problems in components. It can produce some sound distortion, too, and it's not very hard to avoid those problems. As far as the speaker cables go, though, making a pair of parallel wires act as a very low-impedance line is no trouble at all, and gets little attention.
 

dfuze

Lifer
Feb 15, 2006
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^^ Yes that's it. I just bought the very thing this morning (2 actually). I made this ugly contraption but wow its much better than the bunny ears I tried out right before it. Now to find a nice place to hide it out of view!
 

ttown

Platinum Member
Oct 27, 2003
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I ended up going with a 1:4 distribution amp (GE $27 from home depot) and got a few coax terminators from an electrical parts place for <$1 total. Radio shack wanted $5 for 2 gold plated ones.

A bit more expensive than the base-antenna, but much more versatile
Works good with my tv -- (i haven't set it up with the htpc yet)

 

bobsmith1492

Diamond Member
Feb 21, 2004
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silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
Ha I just built one of these and it's working pretty well!

I think I'm going to try building a Gray-Hoverman next.
 

Born2bwire

Diamond Member
Oct 28, 2005
9,840
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Originally posted by: silverpig
Ha I just built one of these and it's working pretty well!

I think I'm going to try building a Gray-Hoverman next.

If you ever get tired of it you could always turn into a tie rack or shoe tree!
 

SonicIce

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2004
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Originally posted by: silverpig
Bought a 15dB amplifier and I'm getting better results again :)

Hurray!

where u get this? would it help digital channels from intermittent corruption? does it depend on the mhz range the amp covers?
 

silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
Originally posted by: SonicIce
Originally posted by: silverpig
Bought a 15dB amplifier and I'm getting better results again :)

Hurray!

where u get this? would it help digital channels from intermittent corruption? does it depend on the mhz range the amp covers?

I got it at The Source.

Really, an amplifier will only compensate for losses later down the line, not for a low signal. You'd probably want a better antenna.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
2,467
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Originally posted by: silverpig
Originally posted by: SonicIce
Originally posted by: silverpig
Bought a 15dB amplifier and I'm getting better results again :)

Hurray!

where u get this? would it help digital channels from intermittent corruption? does it depend on the mhz range the amp covers?

I got it at The Source.

Really, an amplifier will only compensate for losses later down the line, not for a low signal. You'd probably want a better antenna.

Silverpig is right. However, digital TV is slightly different from analog, so you can get away with a few things that analog has trouble with.

First of all, your frequency question: from what I read, all OTA and cable digital signals operate up to 1002 MHz max. so any amp or splitter truly designed for 1000 MHz (or 1 GHz) max should work. Systems designed to 2 GHz and marketed for satellite digital also will be fine, but may be more expensive. Do not use older stuff limited to 400 or 500 MHz.

A weak analog signal (with relatively high noise content) gives you a picture and sound, but with lots of flecks of colored dots all over the screen making it hard to watch. A digital signal with a little less noise will give you very clear reception as long as the main signal can be detected. But at higher noise levels the main signal is lost and the set produces no picture or sound at all. In between those noise levels, a digital system will loose the signal sometimes and blank out the screen until it re-acquires a signal. But then it will still pause a few seconds more until it can be sure of the signal and fill its processing buffers, so you get drop-outs of at least several seconds, and often longer, on a digital signal with poor signal-to-noise ratio.

Now, if you have a digital signal on the edge like that, simply placing an amp at your digital tuner's input MAY improve things a bit if the problem is just a weak signal coming in. But if the signal has lots of noise in it, that amp will not help because it will boost the noise, too. Without a doubt, the best place for the amp is as close as possible to the signal source (the antenna for OTA reception) before more line noise gets added to it. But even that will not help if the original signal from the antenna is weak. That's when you need a better antenna to pick up more signal in the first place, as Silverpig says.
 

silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
Originally posted by: ttown
So, I'm going to build the famous home-made hdtv antenna as seen

HERE ON YOUTUBE

But I have a question regarding splitting a single antenna's signal to 3 tv tuners.

In the video instructions for building the antenna, the tv's coax plugs into is a standard 300ohm/75ohm transformer connected to the antenna.

What I would like to do is share the single antenna among 3 digital tuners used in a htpc.

Question: should I feed the 300/75ohm transformer into a 3-way splitter? or just use a splitter? or something else? use 3 transformerss?

I suppose I can more directly answer your question now.

You will probably want to go:

antenna -> transformer -> (possible preamp) -> splitter -> tuners

Try it without the preamp first to see if the splitter degrades the signal too much.

Check out the digitalhome.ca OTA forums and see if you can build one of the Gray-Hoverman antennas. They're the bee's knees in the antenna world right now.
 

ttown

Platinum Member
Oct 27, 2003
2,412
0
0
Originally posted by: silverpig
Originally posted by: ttown
So, I'm going to build the famous home-made hdtv antenna as seen

HERE ON YOUTUBE

But I have a question regarding splitting a single antenna's signal to 3 tv tuners.

In the video instructions for building the antenna, the tv's coax plugs into is a standard 300ohm/75ohm transformer connected to the antenna.

What I would like to do is share the single antenna among 3 digital tuners used in a htpc.

Question: should I feed the 300/75ohm transformer into a 3-way splitter? or just use a splitter? or something else? use 3 transformerss?

I suppose I can more directly answer your question now.

You will probably want to go:

antenna -> transformer -> (possible preamp) -> splitter -> tuners

Try it without the preamp first to see if the splitter degrades the signal too much.

Check out the digitalhome.ca OTA forums and see if you can build one of the Gray-Hoverman antennas. They're the bee's knees in the antenna world right now.
I might try a gray-hoverman build later if the tansition creates a problem that isn't handled with this build.

I ended up with a 1-to-4 distribution amp as suggested by paperdoc in place of your pre-amp/splitter combo above which I was considering at first.

When I unplug the distribution amp from power, I get a lot of signal drop-outs -- so I don't think just a splitter would work in my situation. I'm a long way from any towers, though, so it _may_ work for people very close to transmitters.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the results -- especially after buying/returning a half-dozen retail antennas that were generally poor.
 
Dec 30, 2004
12,553
2
76
When we actually switch to digital I think all the antennae on the market currently will work just fine-- they'll be pumping up the signal to full broadcast power. Currently they're only running at something like 10 or 25% power.

Paper/B2BW, what sort of noise is getting picked up? Would there be any way to selectively filter the ATSC signal out in the up-to-1Ghz range??
 

silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
When we actually switch to digital I think all the antennae on the market currently will work just fine-- they'll be pumping up the signal to full broadcast power. Currently they're only running at something like 10 or 25% power.

Paper/B2BW, what sort of noise is getting picked up? Would there be any way to selectively filter the ATSC signal out in the up-to-1Ghz range??

The largest source of noise I believe is multipath noise (the signal you want being bounced off of several nearby structures and coming in at different times). There are other sources as well which become important for weak signals. The best (and cheapest) way to go is to have as good of an antenna as possible. After that you can get filters and DSPs (included in a lot of tuners nowadays) to do some signal processing in both analog and digital to increase your signal-to-noise.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
2,467
359
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Originally posted by: soccerballtux
When we actually switch to digital I think all the antennae on the market currently will work just fine-- they'll be pumping up the signal to full broadcast power. Currently they're only running at something like 10 or 25% power.

Paper/B2BW, what sort of noise is getting picked up? Would there be any way to selectively filter the ATSC signal out in the up-to-1Ghz range??

As silverpig said, multipath noise is a significant factor - or, more precisely, was very significant for analog TV because no amp or tuner could distinguish one path from another. I have the impression that digital TV is less affected by this noise source because the digital signal processors can hone in on the strongest signal and ignore the much weaker delayed signal "echo", but I cannot verify that. Anyone here really know about this?

The next two most significant trouble sources are actual random noise added to the signal in cables and at connections between the antenna and the amplifier or tuner, and the negative side: signal strength loss in the cable (which reduces the signal relative to later addition of outside noise). By far the best cure for both is a better antenna to pick up a stronger signal in the first place (hence all the sophisticated antenna designs), but that may not be practical for many applications. Addition of external noise can be reduced by using good cables with good shielding, and sometimes by surrounding open terminals with a shield. This is one key reason that people using an antenna with a balanced 300-ohm output avoid using the old "flat-lead" antenna cable, even twisted. Instead they put a transformer right at the antenna terminals and convert to 75-ohm coaxial cable which has good shielding.

Signal loss in the cable can be handled three ways. First is the obvious - keep your cable runs as short as possible. Next is to buy a low-loss cable, which usually costs more because it uses more expensive materials and is larger so it uses more of those materials. Usually those same high-quality cables also have better shielding from external noise signals. Third is one we have not discussed here yet - in-line amplifiers. These are sold in retail outlets and consist of two modules. One is the amplifier itself, and it looks like a little tubular unit that inserts into the cable line. It is mounted as close to the antenna as possible before more noise is added. At your antenna the system looks like: antenna screw terminals (300 ohm) -> transformer (output at 75 ohm) -> in-line amp -> cable down to your house. The second module is the power supply for the amp. It is inserted right at the the end of that same cable coming down to your room, likely just where the cable enters your TV or distribution amp, and it plugs into the wall. Its trick is to recognize that the signals coming down the cable are all AC - in the range of 5 to 1000 MHz -and no DC component is needed in the signal. So it puts little blocking capacitors in the signal line that allow all the signal through but block any DC voltage, and then uses the center and shield conductors of the cable to send the DC power up the cable to the antenna-mounted in-line amp.

Maximizing the original signal and minimizing the addition of noise really are the only ways to get the best signal. Filtering is not a good option. In the analog signal domain, trying to build a bandpass or a notch filter to remove small portions of the signal band containing noise is impractical because the signals you want are spread over the entire range from 50 to 1000 MHz with few gaps (channels) you don't plan to need. Although I do not understand digital signal processing and filtering, I expect the same type of limit applies there, too. The advantage of digital processing seems to be that it makes the design of "filters" with much sharper "cutoff curves" possible, but you still can't pluck noise pulses out of signal pulses in the same frequency range, unless there is a substantial difference in pulse magnitude - that is, a better signal-to-noise ratio in the input.

Regarding the transmitter power levels, it is common to start up a transmitter at reduced output power and debug it over the start-up period, raising output as the system is optimized. Since the cutover to all-digital OTA is done (or almost), I would sincerely hope that most broadcasters are nearly finished that phase by now and already up to max output.
 

silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
When we actually switch to digital I think all the antennae on the market currently will work just fine-- they'll be pumping up the signal to full broadcast power. Currently they're only running at something like 10 or 25% power.

Paper/B2BW, what sort of noise is getting picked up? Would there be any way to selectively filter the ATSC signal out in the up-to-1Ghz range??

As silverpig said, multipath noise is a significant factor - or, more precisely, was very significant for analog TV because no amp or tuner could distinguish one path from another. I have the impression that digital TV is less affected by this noise source because the digital signal processors can hone in on the strongest signal and ignore the much weaker delayed signal "echo", but I cannot verify that. Anyone here really know about this?

The next two most significant trouble sources are actual random noise added to the signal in cables and at connections between the antenna and the amplifier or tuner, and the negative side: signal strength loss in the cable (which reduces the signal relative to later addition of outside noise). By far the best cure for both is a better antenna to pick up a stronger signal in the first place (hence all the sophisticated antenna designs), but that may not be practical for many applications. Addition of external noise can be reduced by using good cables with good shielding, and sometimes by surrounding open terminals with a shield. This is one key reason that people using an antenna with a balanced 300-ohm output avoid using the old "flat-lead" antenna cable, even twisted. Instead they put a transformer right at the antenna terminals and convert to 50-ohm or 75-ohm coaxial cable which has good shielding. For most, it would be sensible here to go directly to 75 ohms since that is the TV's input impedance.

Signal loss in the cable can be handled three ways. First is the obvious - keep your cable runs as short as possible. Next is to buy a low-loss cable, which usually costs more because it uses more expensive materials and is larger so it uses more of those materials. Usually those same high-quality cables also have better shielding from external noise signals. Third is one we have not discussed here yet - in-line amplifiers. These are sold in retail outlets and consist of two modules. One is the amplifier itself, and it looks like a little tubular unit that inserts into the cable line. It is mounted as close to the antenna as possible before more noise is added. At your antenna the system looks like: antenna screw terminals (300 ohm) -> transformer (output at 75 ohm) -> in-line amp -> cable down to your house. The second module is the power supply for the amp. It is inserted right at the the end of that same cable coming down to your room, likely just where the cable enters your TV or distribution amp, and it plugs into the wall. Its trick is to recognize that the signals coming down the cable are all AC - in the range of 5 to 1000 MHz -and no DC component is needed in the signal. So it puts little blocking capacitors in the signal line that allow all the signal through but block any DC voltage, and then uses the center and shield conductors of the cable to send the DC power up the cable to the antenna-mounted in-line amp.

Maximizing the original signal and minimizing the addition of noise really are the only ways to get the best signal. Filtering is not a good option. In the analog signal domain, trying to build a bandpass or a notch filter to remove small portions of the signal band containing noise is impractical because the signals you want are spread over the entire range from 50 to 1000 MHz with few gaps (channels) you don't plan to need. Although I do not understand digital signal processing and filtering, I expect the same type of limit applies there, too. The advantage of digital processing seems to be that it makes the design of "filters" with much sharper "cutoff curves" possible, but you still can't pluck noise pulses out of signal pulses in the same frequency range, unless there is a substantial difference in pulse magnitude - that is, a better signal-to-noise ratio in the input.

Regarding the transmitter power levels, it is common to start up a transmitter at reduced output power and debug it over the start-up period, raising output as the system is optimized. Since the cutover to all-digital OTA is done (or almost), I would sincerely hope that most broadcasters are nearly finished that phase by now and already up to max output.

Great post. I'll just add a few small things:

Regarding S/N ratio - with a good filter and DSP it's actually possible to pull the signal out of a source with a more noise than signal. Most new tv tuners these days have little dsp chips built in to them to help with this. Adding your own is probably too expensive and troublesome to be worth it though.