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High Mileage Oil - worth the extra cost?

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True. On the flip side, I keep a very aggresive maintenance schedule for the bimmer because I want it to last 200k miles instead of 100k miles, LOL.

😀

In all fairness, your OCI could be just fine.. But the not knowing would drive me insane.

In essence, I agree with the principle of the conservative oil change that is the heart of the traditional 3,000 mile figure. It's better to change your oil before its additive package has been depleted than it is to drive even one mile on depleted oil.

Though of course the 3,000 mile oil change is out of date these days.
 
I have started using high mileage oil in my 2000 maxima that is nearing 200k miles with good results. It appears using less oil with the high mileage oil.

I started doing the oil changes myself as I refused to pay the $10-15 permium the lube places are charging to pour in high milage oil. Sp this actually saves me about $20!
 
😀

In all fairness, your OCI could be just fine.. But the not knowing would drive me insane.

In essence, I agree with the principle of the conservative oil change that is the heart of the traditional 3,000 mile figure. It's better to change your oil before its additive package has been depleted than it is to drive even one mile on depleted oil.

Though of course the 3,000 mile oil change is out of date these days.

My manual says 3000 mi for severe use, like stop and go or offroading. 1999 Cherokee
 
Synthetic also doesnt smoke like regular oil so if she is a puffing she wont no more. Will not stop it from burning it up, but it wont leave that embarrassing trail behind you.

Where did you read that?, if it gets into the combustion chamber in sufficient quantity it's gonna smoke, it may be synthetic but it's still oil..
 
My manual says 3000 mi for severe use, like stop and go or offroading. 1999 Cherokee

Indeed.

Most automobiles specify a 3750 mile OCI under severe conditions.

That's exactly my overall point. Doing an extended drain interval like that without analysis is crazy. Most people are terrible at judging what their severity of service is. About the only thing that can be considered "Normal" or "Light" duty is extended highway travel. Most everything else falls under severe service.
 
Interesting. Is the problem the valve stem seals like in the 3S-FE engines, or what?

How does it get into the combustion chamber?

I will have to look into this. I don't know a whole lot about engines, so I will have figure out where these parts are and check to see if they are good or not. 🙂

What exactly should I be looking for with the valve stem seal?
 
Have you tried adding a dollop of Lucas Oil Stabilizer to the crankcase? I really doubted the claims Lucas makes with that product, but after using some to get our dying Blazer home, I'll try some on my next oil burner/leaker. It did the job on the Blazer that blew out its rear main seal 2 hours away from home and before the Lucas was added, the Blazer was leaving a huge mosquito killing synthetic oil fog behind. After adding it, it barely puffed any smoke at all.

I have not tried this, but I might look into it. I would like to figure out the root cause of the oil burning, I just don't want to spend a lot of money to fix it. 😀

Has anyone else used Oil Stabilizer before and what are your thoughts?
 
I started doing the oil changes myself as I refused to pay the $10-15 permium the lube places are charging to pour in high milage oil. Sp this actually saves me about $20!

Same here, I began doing my own oil changes several years ago, but I have been usually use regular oil. I was never sure if the high mileage oil actually worked or was worth it.
 
ive used the high mileage oil in my truck before. i used it for 3 changes in a row, but didnt see any real drop in oil loss. the truck doesnt smoke at all, but i tend to lose about a quart in 2000 miles. but with 230k miles on it, im surprised its not worse.

my daughters bf has a civic that he only runs synthetic in, that sucker smokes when he accelerates. hes done valve work on it and pretty much everything you can do without actually reringing it. hasnt helped. now hes going to sell it instead of finishing the engine project lol. given the stupid demand and high prices lately, he will probably make a ton flipping that thing too.
 
Hi all,

I have a 1999 Chevy Metro (AKA-Suzuki) with the 1.0 litre 3 banger, 5 spd 🙂. It has 160K(about 100,000miles) and I've been using Castrol GTX 5W30 on all my vehicles since the 80's! A friend of mine and I just got into the habit of buying a couple cases (on sale) over the years. The Metro (which I've had for 4 years, long 'health' story) Prior to the Suzuki I've been driving Mazda 323s(or 3's) which have been great to me.
The Metro does not burn any oil over a 5K(3K-Miles) period. It is, however, leaking a small amount between changes but luckily never enough to have to top it up. It appears to be leaking around the valve cover, but just in one spot to the far left almost above the the plug. OK, enough rambling 🙂 ! I've heard about high mileage oil helping with seals and gaskets. Anyone think this little motor would benefit from high mileage oil? The price difference up here (Canada), does not seem like a move for the better financially or mechanically.

Thanks.
Riv

TAZ 🙂 Lots of noise (a chromed tin can(stove pipe 🙂 ) muffler was on it when I bought it and you can shove a stick right through it (baffles removed or the way it came?)) ! Noise but little acceleration 🙂, ahhh it runs great and gets me where I want to go and the best mileage I've gotten was about 75 mpg+ (Imperial gallon, so about 60-70mpg+ US) but that was at a steady 95kph/55mph and on a cool fall night (about 15C/60F) !!!

TAZ_001.jpg



The six valve 1.0L(993CC) MONSTER *LOL* !!!

TAZ_1.0_Plant.jpg
 
High mileage oil usually contains compounds that swell rubber seals. Other than that, I don't think it's a whole lot different from "regular" oil. Maybe some additional detergents.

More Moly, I think, at least in the good-quality "High mileage" oils.
 
for a Toyota? heck you haven't even broken it in yet. Now if it was a Chrysler or something, it would be on its last leg and not worth investing into.
 
High mileage oil usually contains compounds that swell rubber seals. Other than that, I don't think it's a whole lot different from "regular" oil. Maybe some additional detergents.

If your engine is burning oil due to rings, it won't help. If it's because of valve stem seals or other leaks, it will.

Synthetic will likely make the problem worse, especially if it's a seal related leak.

Your Toyota engine should just be getting broken in at 140k miles. 😉

What he said.
 
Hi all,

I have a 1999 Chevy Metro (AKA-Suzuki) with the 1.0 litre 3 banger, 5 spd 🙂. It has 160K(about 100,000miles) and I've been using Castrol GTX 5W30 on all my vehicles since the 80's! A friend of mine and I just got into the habit of buying a couple cases (on sale) over the years. The Metro (which I've had for 4 years, long 'health' story) Prior to the Suzuki I've been driving Mazda 323s(or 3's) which have been great to me.
The Metro does not burn any oil over a 5K(3K-Miles) period. It is, however, leaking a small amount between changes but luckily never enough to have to top it up. It appears to be leaking around the valve cover, but just in one spot to the far left almost above the the plug. OK, enough rambling 🙂 ! I've heard about high mileage oil helping with seals and gaskets. Anyone think this little motor would benefit from high mileage oil? The price difference up here (Canada), does not seem like a move for the better financially or mechanically.

Thanks.
Riv

TAZ 🙂 Lots of noise (a chromed tin can(stove pipe 🙂 ) muffler was on it when I bought it and you can shove a stick right through it (baffles removed or the way it came?)) ! Noise but little acceleration 🙂, ahhh it runs great and gets me where I want to go and the best mileage I've gotten was about 75 mpg+ (Imperial gallon, so about 60-70mpg+ US) but that was at a steady 95kph/55mph and on a cool fall night (about 15C/60F) !!!

TAZ_001.jpg



The six valve 1.0L(993CC) MONSTER *LOL* !!!

TAZ_1.0_Plant.jpg

hey dude. plz make a thread of this. no sense necro-bumping
 
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