Help With Computer Build

[mynameisjake]

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Gaming, Watching Blue-Ray Movies, Browsing Internet, Editing Photos + Videos

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
$3300-$3500

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
US

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
We can't be expected to scour the internet on your behalf, chasing down deals in your specific country... Again, help us, help YOU.

N/A

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
Western Digital Fanboy, everything else I dont care about

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
Windows 7 Home Premium

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Overclock

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
1920x1080

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.
2-3 Months


Games I plan on playing are Metro: Last Light, Crysis 3, Battlefield 4, Far Cry 3, Bioshock Infinate

 

[mynameisjake]

The Specs of My PC I Built in 2012...
Intel Core i5-3570K
Corsair H80 Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3-1600
Western Digital 2TB Caviar Black
Samsung 128GB 830 Series SSD
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB
Fractical Design R4
Corsair 750W Power Supply
Sony DVD Player

 

[Cerb]

Unless you're moving up in monitor resolution, I don't see the point, at this time, TBH, regardless of budget. What's not fast enough at 1080P?

 

[mynameisjake]

Unless you're moving up in monitor resolution, I don't see the point, at this time, TBH, regardless of budget. What's not fast enough at 1080P?

The CPU is getting old...it is starting to slow down. I think I overdid it while overclocking.

1 of the RAM Stick is dying.

The HDD still works fine, but the SSD is starting to give out.

The PC even just powers off in the middle of when I am playing a game and wont turn on for 15 mins and gave out while I was typing this (that is why I had 2 posts.) Insted of getting it fixec, I am just building a new PC.

 

[nsafreak]

The CPU is getting old...it is starting to slow down. I think I overdid it while overclocking.

1 of the RAM Stick is dying.

The HDD still works fine, but the SSD is starting to give out.

The PC even just powers off in the middle of when I am playing a game and wont turn on for 15 mins and gave out while I was typing this (that is why I had 2 posts.) Insted of getting it fixec, I am just building a new PC.

Ummm, RAM sticks & SSDs don't just slowly die they either work correctly or they don't work at all. I find it extremely hard to believe you could wear out an 830 series SSD in about 2 years time unless you have some absolutely ridiculous workload in terms of writing to it. If you want to just spend a few grand and get a new PC it's your money and we can't stop you from doing it. But frankly it would be wiser to figure out what the problems are with your current system and fix them. Here's what I think likely needs to be done:

1) Run HCI memtest and figure out which RAM stick is defective. Most decent RAM comes with lifetime warranties nowadays so the most you'd be out is the cost of shipping a stick of RAM.

2) When you say the SSD is "dying" that leaves me to think that there's a lot of crap in your Windows 7 install. Might well be time to do a complete clean re-install of the system.

3) If your system is suddenly powering off during normal use (especially if you were just surfing AT when it did this while you were typing up this forum post) then there may be one of a couple easily fixable items going on:

a) Your heatsink isn't properly mounted on your CPU. Clean the thermal paste off, re-apply and reseat. Make sure to use the proper tiny amount, typical recommended amount is no more than the size of a grain of rice.

b) Your PSU is having issues. I would recommend either getting a PSU tester or multimeter and checking your values. Any of Corsair's PSUs should still be under warranty after only 2 years IIRC their warranty terms correctly

 

[mynameisjake]

Ummm, RAM sticks & SSDs don't just slowly die they either work correctly or they don't work at all. I find it extremely hard to believe you could wear out an 830 series SSD in about 2 years time unless you have some absolutely ridiculous workload in terms of writing to it. If you want to just spend a few grand and get a new PC it's your money and we can't stop you from doing it. But frankly it would be wiser to figure out what the problems are with your current system and fix them. Here's what I think likely needs to be done:

1) Run HCI memtest and figure out which RAM stick is defective. Most decent RAM comes with lifetime warranties nowadays so the most you'd be out is the cost of shipping a stick of RAM.

2) When you say the SSD is "dying" that leaves me to think that there's a lot of crap in your Windows 7 install. Might well be time to do a complete clean re-install of the system.

3) If your system is suddenly powering off during normal use (especially if you were just surfing AT when it did this while you were typing up this forum post) then there may be one of a couple easily fixable items going on:

a) Your heatsink isn't properly mounted on your CPU. Clean the thermal paste off, re-apply and reseat. Make sure to use the proper tiny amount, typical recommended amount is no more than the size of a grain of rice.

b) Your PSU is having issues. I would recommend either getting a PSU tester or multimeter and checking your values. Any of Corsair's PSUs should still be under warranty after only 2 years IIRC their warranty terms correctly

Thanks...let me try these.

 

[Cerb]

Ummm, RAM sticks & SSDs don't just slowly die they either work correctly or they don't work at all.

Not so. A good RAM stick shouldn't have any issues throughout its life, but all you need to do is hit up Google's RAM study to find they had many examples of slowly dying RAM. Overclocking, especially overvolting, can greatly accelerate the process. The CPU could also be damaged.

The SSD probably just needs to be replaced. I doubt it's "giving out" so much as 128GB was barely enough to start with. That, or the OP tried bclk OCing, and it got messed up along the way. For $300-500, the OP could have all games and the OS on an SSD.

The powering off symptoms do seem most like a PSU issue to me, too.

 

[mfenn]

I agree with Cerb, though for the SSD I imagine that a format plus being more careful about how full you let it get would do wonders. The CPU itself definitely doesn't "slow down" over time though.

 

[mynameisjake]

1. With the SSD, 62GB of 114GB are filled. The 2TB HDD works fine.

2. The CPU runs at 3.4Ghz, I overclock it to 4.4Ghz.

3. While in the case, I noticed the liquid cooler was leaking onto the motherboard . Is that the problem?

Edit: it wont even start now.

 

[Cerb]

3. While in the case, I noticed the liquid cooler was leaking onto the motherboard . Is that the problem?

Yes, that could be a rather major problem.

 

[mfenn]

Yes, that could be a rather major problem.

That's probably why the overclock wouldn't hold out as well. Turns out that pumps don't work very well when they're circulating air instead of water.

 

[mynameisjake]

Well, the CPU, PSU, and SSD are soaked to death...I think water got inside them somehow. The whole case was pretty much flooded and the HDD is getting splashed now. Unfortunately, the warranties expired :smack:.

 

[Cerb]

How about a Haswell upgrade cooled by air alone?

 

[nsafreak]

Well now that your CPU & motherboard along with your PSU are toast you're pretty much forced to upgrade. The SSD may still work fine unless the coolant managed to get in between the data/power connectors while the system was powered on. Even if it's ok I guess you have enough excuse to get a bigger SSD. Do you know if the GTX 680 got any coolant on it or not? In all honesty that's one part that I'd migrate since I don't think you'd see much of a jump going from a GTX 680 to a GTX 780 on a single monitor setup.

 

[mynameisjake]

I removed the SSD and HDD and as I shook them around, I heard water inside :smack:.

 

[MasterChuck]

How's the RAM going? Was it dunked aswell? What about the optical drive? If it's all done, the only part you can carry over is the case. Then your looking at a completely new build.

 

[Cerb]

Just assuming everything electronic, save fans, is gone (probably not, but...), here's a total overkill upgrade, air only. Whether you need a new OS is kind of gray area.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ NCIX US) <- Pretty sweet price.
Motherboard: Asus Z87-PRO (V EDITION) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 960GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($449.00 @ Adorama) <- With $3000+ to burn, why not? Generally unnecessary, though.
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($545.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1820.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-12 12:29 EDT-0400)

 

[mfenn]

Just assuming everything electronic, save fans, is gone (probably not, but...), here's a total overkill upgrade, air only. Whether you need a new OS is kind of gray area.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ NCIX US) <- Pretty sweet price.
Motherboard: Asus Z87-PRO (V EDITION) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 960GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($449.00 @ Adorama) <- With $3000+ to burn, why not? Generally unnecessary, though.
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($545.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1820.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-12 12:29 EDT-0400)

:thumbsup: Nice build. Anybody else think its patently ridiculous that a high end gaming PC only comes out to $1800, event with a frickin' terabyte SSD?

 

[CT Resident]

So, your liquid cooler leaked on your motherboard?

If the liquid cooler leaked and flooded the PC, how did it take 2 weeks for it to die out? Also, if a CPU gets flooded in water, it is going to die on the spot.

 

[mynameisjake]

Please, I have 16GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and a core i5 processor that is all dead. The motherboard might be dead also.

 

[CT Resident]

The Specs of My PC I Built in 2012...
Intel Core i5-3570K
Corsair H80 Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3-1600
Western Digital 2TB Caviar Black
Samsung 128GB 830 Series SSD
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB
Fractical Design R4
Corsair 750W Power Supply
Sony DVD Player

Please, I have 16GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and a core i5 processor that is all dead. The motherboard might be dead also.

You have yourself away...So easy...

 

[mfenn]

I removed the SSD and HDD and as I shook them around, I heard water inside :smack:.

The H80 really has a very small amount of coolant inside. Certainly not enough to fill up an HDD with coolant. You sure you didn't dump a bucket of water on your PC?