Help! Underclocked CPU by accident!! AH

[Superman9534]

Ok i was trying to change the multi on my 1700+ from 11 to 12 as described in another thread. I did what the painting guide said and cut the 2nd L3 and penciled the 4th, but now its at 750mhz! (100mhz bus). How do i fix it damn it!!!!!?¿

 

[Superman9534]

please!!! sombody!

 

[johncar]

Originally posted by: Superman9534
Ok i was trying to change the multi on my 1700+ from 11 to 12 as described in another thread. I did what the painting guide said and cut the 2nd L3 and penciled the 4th, but now its at 750mhz! (100mhz bus). How do i fix it damn it!!!!!?¿

Put it back the way it was. Then
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code article to learn the Code. Then Tbred or Palomino article have Table of settings. Use the Table which matches your CPU, either 5 L3s for Tbred, or 5 L3/L4/L10 "bridge pairs" for Palomino. What you did sounds wrong for either Tbred or Palomino models.
John C.

 

[Superman9534]

ok what happens if you go too deep? I don't think I did, but what happens if you do? I'm still getting a 7.5 multiplier and i don't know why, i only cut one L3 bridge as in this guide. The standard for a 1700+ is 11 multi, i tried to change it to 12 and now im running at 750mhz...! Please help me!

 

[Superman9534]

also, i don't see how you said it sounds wrong, when i did the same thing this table in the link you gave me says to do.

 

[johncar]

Ok, let's go back to square one. Assuming you have the Palomino 1700 with 4 L3s, 4 L4s and 2 L10s. Then yes you did the right thing by trying to open the 2nd from left L3 and trying to close the 4th from left L3 bridges, see below. But now also look at 7.5X in the following...L to R of L3/L4/L10s...

11X = C-C-O-O---C-C-O-O---C-O
12X = C-O-O-C---C-C-O-O---C-O
7.5X= O-C-C-O---C-O-O-C---C-O

"4" bridges need to be changed to go from 11X to 7.5X, 2 L3s and 2 L4s. How is that possible if you only worked on the 2 L3s needed to go from 11X to 12X, and they are not the same 2 needed for 7.5X.

Something must have gone wrong as a result of the mod. Maybe you did cut too deep and cut some other circuit traces in the substrate below. Best way to open bridges is to "wear away" material gradually with something like a fine pointed diamond coated file, or a rotary diamond coated burr (but used by hand like a file, no power tools). Knives have the problem of controlling depth of cut.

If you confirm that you have a Palomino with 10 bridges as shown, 5 "bridge pairs", (and not a Tbred with just 5 L3s, if there is a 1700 Tbred), then we are out of ideas. Maybe the only option is to restore the mod, easy to wash off the pencil with acetone on a q-tip. But how do you restore a knife cut?? BTW, did you leave the L1s open?? We assume you're doing the mod cause the mobo/bios is unable to change the Multiplier, in which case the L1s should be left open. And if you did close the L1s, did you insulate the pits before closing?? Give us some feedback on these issues and exactly what you did to "all" bridges.
John C.

 

[Superman9534]

yes i have that model 1700. I did only mess w/ the L3 and no other bridges. I think i might have gone too deep. I have it running at 1ghz (1006mhz) at 133mhz FSB right now.... I guess i'll order a T-Bred 1700 from newegg for $58 and just leave it the way it is and continue to mess with this. How did it get to that multi i have no idea...i must have gone too deep. AHH teaches me to mess w/ stuff.

 

[Superman9534]

so i guess theres no hope?

 

[johncar]

7.5X has the only the .5X and 4X Bit Value circuits set HI, all others are LO, and LOs are not easy to manually reset HI, esp with the uncertain condition of bridges/deep cuts???, etc.

But 11.5X is obtained with only the .5X Bit Value circuit HI, so it might be possible to get 11.5X by simply grounding the 4X Bit Value signal bus which seems to be HI re the 7.5X result. You could do that by closing the 4th L1 from the left, but with the pit NOT insulated so the bridge would become grounded to the sub-surface ground plane. You wrote that you did not touch any other bridges, so the 4th L1 should be able to be grounded. Just connect the lower dot to the pit, that's the one connected to the signal bus, no need to connect to the upper dot which connects to a pin. Be sure to clean the lower dot of any film/debris for good connection, and check with an eye loupe to see some copper or gold in the pit. Then use a conductive liquid ink to be sure to make that connection. Suggest rear window defogger repair material.
John C.

 

[johncar]

Thought of an easier way to get 11.5X not involving "pits" which might be difficult to clean later. Just connect the lower dots of the 4th and 5th L1 bridges. Since the 5th 8X Bit Value signal bus/circuit is already LO, that deliberate cross-connection should pull the 4X Bit Value signal bus LO as well.
Btw...is any bios setting causing the 7.5X, are the L1s open??...so no way for mobo to affect the Multiplier. Just checking.
John C.

 

[Superman9534]

ok i'll try that today thanks a lot man.

 

[Superman9534]

ok i'm gonna do this, but just to be certain I know what you mean. The lower dots of 4th and 5th L1 bridges. I know where 4th and 5th are, but what do you mean by the lower dots? Do you just want me to connect those two L1 bridges? (since they are cut by default?). Take a screenshot of the painting guide with what you want me to do.

 

[johncar]

Originally posted by: Superman9534
ok i'm gonna do this, but just to be certain I know what you mean. The lower dots of 4th and 5th L1 bridges. I know where 4th and 5th are, but what do you mean by the lower dots? Do you just want me to connect those two L1 bridges? (since they are cut by default?). Take a screenshot of the painting guide with what you want me to do.

Yes, you connect those 2 bridges "together", but....you only need to connect the the "lower" sections/dots of those 2 bridges together. You don't need to fill/insulate their pits, or connect the "upper" sections/dots together....because....

1:- When the L1s are open, the upper dots are NOT connected to the signal busses, but the lower dots ARE connected to the signal busses. So it's easier, and no need to mess up the whole area unnecessarily.
2:- Restoration will be much easier, just break the trace on the surface, no difficult cleaning of pits.

ASCII Graphics...

U U U U U = upper dots

L L L L L = lower dots, just connect the 4th and 5th from the Left.
John C.

 

[Superman9534]

ok i connected it with a pencil, didn't seem to do anything. In fact...every time i've used a pencil on this thing nothing has happened. Makes me think im doing it wrong some how...or my pencil isn't working or somthing. *tries to think of another small conductive material*...hmm. Foil is way too hard getting it that small...tried it..too hard for m big hands. Ok i also put in new contacts today...and wow i can see the processor much better...and holy sh!t i made a deep cut. I know what i should have done now but at the time it was night and i was using a lamp with old contacts and couldn't see very well...not a good idea on my part.

I'll work another day or so on this then order that 1700 tbred from newegg....

and johncar...you sure know your stuff! what do you do for a living? thanks for all your time man, even if i don't do this right...being the nube I am at PC hardware.

 

[johncar]

Most people use conductive "ink". Auto supply stores have a repair kit to repair broken traces on the rear window defogger... has a small bottle of conductive solution which dries. Give it a try, use a pointed tip like a toothpick or needle to apply as brush is too big.
Shake well before using.;-)
John C.