Originally posted by: CupCak3
I've been doing quite a bit of reading on the net and will be doing the work w/ my dad who has done brake work like this before (though admittedly many years ago)
boomerang, excellent tip on the nipples. My main concern was actually a point which jaha2000 brought up about getting air into the master cylinder and being a PITA/long bleed time to get all the bubbles out.
I've seen a couple mentions around the net about the point which bruceb brings up about h2o in the brake fluid. My plan is to suck out w/ a turkey baster the fluid in the main reservoir and then top off w/ new. While putting on the new hoses and front calipers, I would like to pay close attention to make sure the fluid level does not drop to get air in the master cylinder. After all new hoses are on, my dad and I will start bleeding the brakes starting in the rear and then the fronts. I'm hoping through the changing of hoses and bleeding that I'll be able to drain out most of the old fluid.
Would I be safe to assume that I don't actually need to do a total fluid drain if the fluid which comes out isn't dark colored from rust?
The procedure you've outlined is exactly how I do it. You will essentially be doing a total fluid flush. I bleed from farthest to nearest until the fluid comes out clear. Sucking out the reservoir and filling with fresh is the key as far as I'm concerned. Makes the job go faster. One thing I rarely see mentioned here is the effect brake fluid has on paint. You know it will take it off, bubble or blister it in a heartbeat right? If you spill some on your paint, before you have time to say 'oh shit' the damage will be done. Just a heads up and I apologize ahead of time if you know this already.
mooseracing, good tip on wirebrushing and cleaning. It may save me 30 bucks. (though I may end up replacing the calipers anyways since the OEM remanufactured ones I got were only 15 bucks a pop)
bruceb, with what you described on the wheel bearings, can that be checked by trying to "wobble" the tire when its jacked up and if it doesn't move the bearing is ok?
Thanks again everyone for your help and comments!
For $15 each I'd replace the calipers in a heartbeat. Somebody mentioned you might have a sticky piston. This will take that possibility out of the picture. (Next time you put rear shoes on, replace the wheel cylinders too. Assuming you have drums in the rear.)
I don't want to speak for bruceb, but I don't think he realizes your car is front wheel drive. You don't have wheel bearings per se, you have hub assemblies. They usually don't get worn to where they wobble, they start making a growling kind of noise when driving or turning. They won't wobble, because there is a very wide bearing in them.
One last bit of advice. I know the weekend is fast approaching, but if you can easily spray some liquid wrench type stuff on the connections you're going to be taking apart now, you'll be that much further ahead when you go to do the job. I don't know where you're at in Ohio, but if you're in the rust belt like I am, you know how rusty fittings and such can get on an 8 year old car.
Just one of my things. Even though that fluid will be bled out when done, I just don't like it running out and making a mess. Just me, and maybe you too, if you're asking.
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