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Help! Still can't get ASUS A8N-SLI to POST

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So, what should I do next?

Short history of no POST with this computer:
Tried different PSU, reseated, put together outside case, etc...
RMA'd mobo
RMA'd cpu
RMA'd mobo
Had videocards, CPU, RAM tested
Replaced ASUS with DFI
Worked for about 5 days and now no POST/video signal again

Oh, and what it is currently doing:
When I try to power on, the case power LED flashes on and off continuously, the four debug LED lights light up and then just the system start-up light goes off leaving the CPU, DRAM, VGA detected lights on.
 
sounds like you've confirmed that every major component works properly... so now it's down to the silly stuff...things that come to mind would be...
1) are you 100% sure that the switch on your case is not defective ?
2) you sure the board is not shorting out against the case?
3) It sounds like a PSU related issue. but since you've tried a couple of psu's .. maybe the issue has to do with the outlet/receptacle supplying the PSU...
a) does the outlet/receptacle appear to be in good shape.. ?
b) are u in an older house/apartment.. maybe the circuit is somehow fluctuating voltages causing you problems? Are you using some type of voltage regulation to guard against this? Or perhaps you can try an outlet on a different circuit ?
4) u sure all of the IDE cables, etc.. are in good shape et.c. and that your header pins on the board from the SWITCH/LED's are using the correct PINS?
 
Originally posted by: mpalmer
Originally posted by: GuitarDaddy
Have you tried resetting the RTC(Cmos) jumper. One of the quirks of this board is that adding or removing hardware often requires resetting CMOS. Give it a try
Click to expand...

yep. i read that some people had everything fixed by a simple cmos reset, but no such luck for me. i've tried it at least 10 times tonight, with different combinations of parts. no beeps, no messages, no video.
Click to expand...


Try this when you reset your CMOS
1. Remove your VGA card
2. Remove the ASUS EZ selector card connector.
3. Remove the on-board battery.
4. Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 to pins 3-4. Wait 30 secs, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
5. Re-install the battery.
6. Re-install the ASUS EZ selector card connector.
7. Connnect just enough to boot.
 
I had tried about everything at one time or another including putting it together outside the case. The DFI board actually has a power switch on it so I can bypass the case switch.

The other PSU I have is an Antec 480 I believe.

I'm just concerned that the PSU is cauing the mobo's to go bad. This DFI board worked for a few days, couldn't get it to POST for about 30 mins the other day, and now can't get it to POST at all.

I'll take everything apart and put it back together again today when I get home.

FYI pchu, This is a DFI board now, not an ASUS (so, it has damn jumpers instead of the EZ selector).

 
monkeydust, and you others having these problems: I really feel sorry for you! I know how it feels when you buy new, top-of-the-line parts, and it just doesn't work. 🙁

In a week or so, I will build my own system based on the A8N-SLI, as well as for my friend at the same time. I really hope I won't experience these problems. However, last week I actually built a similar system, also based on the A8N-SLI, which did work without problems.

I have read every post in this thread, and there is only one thing not mentioned, that I could think of. During my years of buidling and fixing computers, I have come across a similar problem once, which gave me some headace.

It turned out to be the reset switch which was always closed. Actually I think it was the case-front which somehow made the reset switch being hold-down. This caused exactly the behaviour you describe; no post, no beep. Just the fans spinning up.

May I ask; when you tested your motherboard out of the case, did you still have the power and reset cables connected to your case? When I do the "out of the case" tests, I usually have none of these switches connected, and use a screwdriver or similar to manually short the power-pins on the mobo to power it up.

Of course, there is the posibility that your PSU is frying your mobos, but lets really hope that's not the case...
 
Yes, I tested with the case connections to the mobo on. I believe that the DFI board has manual power and reset switches on it that I can try. This case does not a reset switch.

The thing is that this mobo worked for a few days unlike the ASUS mobo's which never POST'ed. This
 
Oh.. well, I thought that perhaps your power and/or reset switch on your case worked sometimes, and sometimes not. But if that's not the problem, then I guess, since you replaced everything else, and went thru three mobos, it more or less MUST be your PSU killing your mobos. Actually, I read a thread sometime ago, when it indeed whas the PSU that killed the guys mobos, so it's not impossibe, unfortunately. The problem that guy had was to proove to the PSU maker that this was the case, and make them pay for the broken parts. But I think he succeeded in the end...
 
Well, Andy from OCZ over on their forums just ok'd me to RMA my PSU. So, guess I'm gonna do that now.

What I'm wondering is if my DFI mobo is not shot and needs to be RMA'd?
 
Your memory is not by chance double sided x16 DIMMS chips or 128 MB chips is it? What is the configuration of your DIMMS?
 
I see it says 2x512 ocz pc3200 but it does not say what is the physical layout of the chips on the DIMMS. And have you had the memory tested by a memory tester?
 
Umm... can't answer you on the memory. I'm sure somebody else more technical here could.

I ran Memtest on the memory in my other machine and got no errors.
 
Well, I am a few hours into your exact same problem.
No video, no post/beeps, natta
Wish I had of done my home work and read this thread.
PS is a 520 antec stealth, should be fibe
Ram is corsair twinx 3700
cpu is a 3500
dual 66gt's
And well I have tried everything in this thread with no success
Sooooo frustrating after blowing all of this cash, arg.
Well the hunt for a fix coninues
 
Well I am loading windows now, but still peeved. My corsair 3700 will not work and provides no beeps.
I have some 3200 lat2 corsair(2*256) and if i have one stick in b1 slot it posts and all is well. If i put the second piece in a1, problem is back. I have tried second stick of 3200 in b2 and it still loads but bios only shows 256 mb of ram. So my good ram (1 gig o 3700) will not work on this board, arg. And 3200 works but only in one slot and not even the slot asus recommends for one stick configuration. Frustrating for sure, anyone know if this has been addressed in a bios flash? Thanks in advamnce
 
Put the one stick in B1, then boot and enter the bios to manually configure your memory timings and vdimm. 😉

MD---you toast the DFI?
 
My God! You guys are my heros. So many of you involved in helping a fellow traveler solve his problems. I am in the midest of my new build, the first in over 10 years and consists of the following:

Lian Li V1200B-BOW w/ Antec 550 TrueControl - modded by Performance-PC
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe Motherboard
Socket 939 Athalon 64 4000+
Corsair TWINX1024-3200XL - 1GB
ASUS nVIDIA GeForce 6800 Ultra Video Card
Mitsumi FA404M 7-in-1 Card Reader and Floppy
Zalman CNPS7700-Cu CPU Heatsink & Fan
(2) Western Digital 74 GB Raptor Serial ATA Raid 0
(2) Western Digital 34 GB Raptor Serial ATA Raid 0
(2) Plextor 716SA R+- DVD
Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro
LogitechMX1000 Laser Cordless Mouse
Saitek X52 Digital Joy Stick
Saitek PC Gamer's Keyboard
Logitech Z-5500 Digital Speakers
Reactive sleeving, black light and Cold Cathode light

The Lian Li came without the required HDD Fixed screws so I am awaiting them. The GeForce 6800 Ultra was backordered forever and I should have it on Tuesday along with the hard disk screws.

In the meantime, I will be assembling all the chipset, Bios, and Raid software so that I am ready. My wife will absolutely strangle me if it takes a long time to get working because the parts are strewn all over my dining room table!

I wish you all the luck in solving your mystery. Perhaps you can write a book with this MOBO as part of the story. Then you will make all your money back and some.

 
lol

Tried changing my memory tmings to reflect my corsair twinx 3700, 3-8 and doesnt make a difference. Might have an opportunity to sell it though. What ram would you recommend for this board, aka who is using this board and has had no memory issues.
Other than the oddball memory thing pc is up and running smooth, oc'ing with now probs, etc
Thanks in advance.
 
WELL!! Posting and loading windows with my ram, BUT....I had to boot with one stick of 256 3200 corsair, go into bios and set ram speed at 500, even though I am using 3700 (466). Then shutdown, then put in my 2 sticks of 512 3700, and voila it works! But...my cpu is at a multiplier of 8 and my a64 3500 ends up running at 1.6 instead of 2.2. So.....who can tell me the multiplier to get my 2.2 back? I skipped that day in class. I have tried 10 but then it won't post and I have to go threw the whole process again. Thanks in advance, or maybe there are other tip I dont know about to get cpu up to par.
 
The memory only works if you are overclocking it? Something seems wrong here.

Try setting it all up like this:

FSB = 200 (Thats default. Everything above is overclocking)
CPU/Multiplier = 11 (Should be 11 for the 3500+) Disable "cool & quiet".
Memory = 400 to begin with. Set all memory timings to "Auto", which should work fine if you are not overclocking. If not, try locking the known values.
If this works you can then up it step by step until you reach its rated 466.
 
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