Help on doing a window mod/cutting acrylic/adding more fans

AmberClad

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Jul 23, 2005
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I'm thinking about replacing at least one of the three acrylic windows in my X-QPack with this dual 120mm fan mount window kit and two 120mm fans. The dimensions of that panel are bigger than my stock windows though. Is there a way of doing straight cuts on acrylic without power tools?

I'm also trying to decide on an appropriate fan to mount on those two holes and I saw this Arctic Cooling 120mm.

But that fan is exhaust only, and I'm a little concerned that this is going to create a strange air pressure situation in the case. Basically, I'd have 3 exhaust case fans, an exhaust PSU fan, and an dual slot GPU with an exhaust slot.

Should I get regular 120mm fans instead, add fan grills, and then reverse mount them so they're intake fans? I could also just reverse mount the single 120mm that's currently in there and get those Arctic Cooling fan I linked. Or is it ok to leave things be? Thoughts?
 

Billb2

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Mar 25, 2005
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Acrylic is kinda hard to cut without power tools. I suppose you could use a coping saw and straighten out the edges with a file though.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coping_Saw

You could just cut holes into your existing window, though a hole saw would be alot easier.
You could just buy some acrylic sheet and cut it to match your current window, then add holes to it.

And you're incorrectly picking the fan based on size. The primary consideration when purchasing a fan is it's CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating...how much air it will move. Second, how loud it is.

Total CFM's in should be about equal to total CFM's out.

Yes, just flop a fan over and it changes from exhaust to intake.
 

heymrdj

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May 28, 2007
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Originally posted by: Billb2
Total CFM's in should be about equal to total CFM's out.

I have to disagree. I find that running negative air pressure gives better cooling results because it causes a vacuum in the case, resulting in fewer, if any, dead spots in the case. I try to run 20-40 more exhaust CFM than intake CFM.

 

AmberClad

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Jul 23, 2005
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I'm considering some other options. What about replacing the three acrylic panels with high airflow modder's mesh instead?

Last night, I completed my upgrade and heat buildup doesn't seem to be nearly as much of an issue anymore, as compared to when I was using a P4. I would still like to increase the airflow a bit for the sake of my new 8800 GTS. Right now, I'm experimenting with running with the case on, but acrylic panels off and no additional fans, and the temps are pretty good.

Also, depending on the size of the holes in the mesh, I might be able to mount fans directly onto it without much trouble if I see the need in the future.

Thoughts on this plan?
 

AmberClad

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Jul 23, 2005
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Originally posted by: swtethan
I'd rather have the mesh than a window, can you mount fans on the mesh also?
Yeah, that's exactly my thinking in this. It seems like it would be much easier to add holes in the mesh than it would be to add holes to acrylic. I think it might also be possible to clip fans onto the mesh without using screws.

In any case, after seeing the load temperatures on my new CPU and video card, I think even just the mesh with no additional fans would be fine.

I might stop by Home Depot later to see if there are any homebrew things I can find.
 

swtethan

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Aug 5, 2005
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We had a high speed drill cutter thing that spun at insane speeds and cut through acrylic like butter. It also melted it!
 

AmberClad

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Jul 23, 2005
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Originally posted by: swtethan
I wouldnt know, I use Krylon and Painters Touch, both sold at Home Depot. Use something that works on metal.
Thanks for the tips :thumbsup:.
 

swtethan

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Aug 5, 2005
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Dont forget to keep it off the ground when youre painting, maybe hang it from a wire hanger or string. I hate it when paint globs up when you paint something on the ground.
 

Billb2

Diamond Member
Mar 25, 2005
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Originally posted by: heymrdj
Originally posted by: Billb2
Total CFM's in should be about equal to total CFM's out.

I have to disagree. I find that running negative air pressure gives better cooling results because it causes a vacuum in the case, resulting in fewer, if any, dead spots in the case. I try to run 20-40 more exhaust CFM than intake CFM.
The amount of air going throught the case is the same whether the pressure is positive or negative. So the dead spots are the same too. You're just wasting 40 CFMs.

As for a vacuum... a Delta FFB1212EHE, for example, will only create about 18mm H20 of vacuum and that's a 200CFM fan. 18mm H20 = 0.0256 psi. Your 40 CFMs of vacuum is inconsequential.