It gives nice, sharp pictures. But it's the large aperture that's the winning feature. It will work well in low-light situations where using other lenses will force you to use high ISO that gives noisy pictures, or blurry pictures. Plus, you can have a small depth of field which can improve a picture dramatically if you use it right.
I was lookin at stuff today online and this came in only $15 over budget from buydig.com
Canon 40D $1300
$390
Canon EF 28-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens
Usually Ships Within 24 Hours
Manufacturer Part# 2562A002
$549
Canon 0345B002 EF 70-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens with Optical Image Stabilizer
Usually Ships 3-4 Days
Manufacturer Part# 0345B002
$76
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens
Plastic Fantastic
Total 2315 shipped with no tax. What does everyone think of those lenses?
Canon 40D $1300
$390
Canon EF 28-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens
Usually Ships Within 24 Hours
Manufacturer Part# 2562A002
$549
Canon 0345B002 EF 70-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens with Optical Image Stabilizer
Usually Ships 3-4 Days
Manufacturer Part# 0345B002
$76
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens
Plastic Fantastic
Total 2315 shipped with no tax. What does everyone think of those lenses?
- Mar 20, 2000
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you'll have no wide angle whatsoever.
i suggest the tamron 17-50 f/2.8 rather than the 28-135. you've got tons of overlap between the 28-135 and the 70-300. the 70-300 will be faster in that overlap. so, it's not as good as the 70-300 over the longer part of the lens, and it doesn't give you any wide angle.
you're also not leaving yourself any budget for extra batteries (get them from ebay), tripod (good ones are pricey), carrying case, filters, flashes, etc. unless you're really into wildlife photography i would suggest leaving off the 70-300 for the moment.
Thanks for the tips. I'll probably drop the 28-135 then and go with a more wide angle lens. As for the rest of my stuff, I already have a tripod. Between now and my trip in March, I have a birthday and Christmas, so thats where the rest of my gear is coming from.
How about the
EF-S 17-85 mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Zoom Lens
Usually Ships Within 24 Hours
Manufacturer Part# 9517A002
As a replacement for the 28-135?
EF-S 17-85 mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Zoom Lens
Usually Ships Within 24 Hours
Manufacturer Part# 9517A002
As a replacement for the 28-135?
- Mar 20, 2000
- 102,393
- 8,552
- 126
tamron 17-50 or canon 17-40 are both better than this IMO, of course you don't get IS with either, but I don't really see the value of IS on a wide angle anyway
Which Canon 17-40 are you talking about?
Then I also have no coverage from 40-70 except for the plastic fantastic that can only do 50mm.
D300 is fully weatherproof whereas 40D is not. Well, it's silly to say that this one is fully weather proof and that one is half weather proof because it's either weather proof or not.
Although it must be better than nothing, I don't see 40D being weather proof at all. If you take out both of D300 and 40D in light rainy day, expect 40D's internal PCB to be soaked whereas D300 stays safe. Having sealed up battery and CF door means nothing.
If you're an active outdoor shooter D300 being weather proof would be the reason alone to get it.
In addition, if you're going for Canon, it'd be better for you not to spend much money on crop lenses even though Canon only offers a few of crop lenses.
If you are going for Nikon, I'd still suggest the same thing but at least you can make use of crop lenses even if you decide to go FF.
Well, at this point, neither you or I know whether you're the type who'll want nothing but FF.
He is doing a wedding and I would do it for the extra stop. 70 bucks is worth it for that one wedding shot that required a faster lens. Also since he is a beginner I just wanted to give him a taste of primes also.
There is nothing wrong with crop and there are plenty of people who shoot crop with spectacular results. Also canon has invested into the EF-S line and it is here to stay for a while. Full frame means its an equivalent to a 35mm sensor. But going full frame means you have to invest in expensive, quality glass because first because cheap glass will show its flaws on full frame. Keep in mind that weather proofed body means you need a weather proofed lens as well.
- Jan 2, 2006
- 10,455
- 35
- 91
My 30D has been severely drenched in heavy torrential rain before, and the only thing that went wrong is the little joystick in the back that you use to pan images in review mode stopped working for a day until it dried, after which it went back to normal. If you open up a 30D (which I have) you'll find that there's actually no real easy place for water to really pool and properly soak a PCB. The geometry and design on the inside is such that it just makes a PCB hard to soak. The most vulnerable are the buttons and controls which actually have openings to the water.
Would I recommend shooting a 40D in torrential rain? No, because while you don't have too big of a risk of destroying the 40D outright, you do run the risk of having some kind of function stop working like it should. You also run the risk of damaging a non-weathersealed lens.
As for myself, will I keep on shooting in torrential rain with my 30D? Heck yeah.
But if you are an active outdoor photog, getting a weathersealed body is still a good idea. While rain won't necessarily kill the 40D, it can knock it out of commission for a day or two.
Salt water changes everything. Get weathersealed if you're shooting and getting wet in saltwater.
I'm not doing any weddings in teh near future, although I plan to take my camera hiking through the himilayas for 3 weeks next march and to dominica next june.
Lets see, what this all runs me from Buydig.com
Plastic fantastic 50mm 1.8 - $76
70-200mm $555 no IS though
How much of a difference will that make for me? What if I use a tripod or minitripod? Will that compensate enough?17-55mm - $1000 ye-ouch! I hadn't planned on dropping that much on a lens.
Then I'm lookin at 1631 before I even touch a $1300 40D and my budget is blown.
Lots of interesting choices! You guys have been awesome with all of your help. Unfortunately I need to buy some more plane tickets here shortly for my upcoming trips so that futher cuts into my camera budget at the moment.
What kinds of things do I have to watch out for if I get used equipment?
I see the 70-200mm L series for $475 used locally.
I see the 70-200mm L series for $475 used locally.
dartworth
Lifer
- Jul 29, 2001
- 15,200
- 10
- 81
I would get a D80 with the kit lens along with the thrifty 50mm and work with that. Get use to the operation of the camera and explore all of its functions.
After some time, you will know what lenses you need...
if you are hiking/backpacking, I really wouldn't want to carry all them lenses...
After some time, you will know what lenses you need...
if you are hiking/backpacking, I really wouldn't want to carry all them lenses...
You'll have another choice in less than a week when Sony announces its advanced amateur model, probably called the A300.
Anyway, for general advice on your first DSLR purchase, you have plenty of time between now and March to learn how to use your camera.
First off, I wouldn't worry about macro just yet. The dedicated lenses are quite expensive (for good ones, anyway -- $400+ starting with 100mm), and the techniques are fairly hard to do right off the bat. If you get a lens with a macro capability, like some of the 70-300s out there, that's a good way to start because you aren't dropping a sizeable chunk of cash on a single purpose lens (they can be used for other things but aren't quite as useful -- portraits tend to be VERY sharp, showing off all skin imperfections, for instance).
Second, I'd start with the kit lens and a consumer telephoto (70-300) or perhaps with a "travel zoom" like Tamron's 18-250mm. Learn the camera body, learn where you like to shoot, and then start investing in quality glass as money permits when you figure out what suits your style. The great thing about lenses is that they really don't lose their value so if you buy one as a starter, you can sell it for nearly what you paid -- consider it a rental. Also, if you know anyone with the same camera line, try using some lenses (go on shoots with other people) to see what works and what doesn't. Take a class or two sponsored by a lens manufacturer, which should give you the opportunity to use a variety of their lenses.
Personally, I used to think I loved telephoto, but now I'm about to sell my 75-300mm lens because I just never use the long end -- I've found 210mm to be adequate for the majority of my needs at the moment. I've invested in some quality prime lenses (I have 28mm, 50mm, and 100mm -- need an 85mm), and I love shooting with them though I always thought I preferred zooms. Until you start shooting a LOT, you will likely not know what you like to do and what suits your photography style.
Third, check your tripod. If it's a consumer grade one (anything under $75, and that's being miserly), you might consider an upgrade. If you're planning on a lot of hiking in Nepal, you need to look into something lightweight, portable, but strong. That translates to expensive. Trust me -- you don't want to lug around a massive tripod when hiking as you'll just be miserable.
Lastly, don't forget about a quality flash. The onboard flashes of ALL cameras just suck. If you want to do any portrait photography or people photography on a cloudy day, you'll likely want an external flash. Get the higher caliber one for whatever line you pick -- mine was $350 and absolutely worth it.
Bottomline: Go general first and then specialize. I wouldn't reach on the camera body, personally, but I also wouldn't overspend on lenses right out the gate. It would suck to have a great camera body, a fantastic lens, and then realize you don't have the money for a high quality large diameter circular polarizer to make those landscape shots look spectacular.
Anyway, for general advice on your first DSLR purchase, you have plenty of time between now and March to learn how to use your camera.
First off, I wouldn't worry about macro just yet. The dedicated lenses are quite expensive (for good ones, anyway -- $400+ starting with 100mm), and the techniques are fairly hard to do right off the bat. If you get a lens with a macro capability, like some of the 70-300s out there, that's a good way to start because you aren't dropping a sizeable chunk of cash on a single purpose lens (they can be used for other things but aren't quite as useful -- portraits tend to be VERY sharp, showing off all skin imperfections, for instance).
Second, I'd start with the kit lens and a consumer telephoto (70-300) or perhaps with a "travel zoom" like Tamron's 18-250mm. Learn the camera body, learn where you like to shoot, and then start investing in quality glass as money permits when you figure out what suits your style. The great thing about lenses is that they really don't lose their value so if you buy one as a starter, you can sell it for nearly what you paid -- consider it a rental. Also, if you know anyone with the same camera line, try using some lenses (go on shoots with other people) to see what works and what doesn't. Take a class or two sponsored by a lens manufacturer, which should give you the opportunity to use a variety of their lenses.
Personally, I used to think I loved telephoto, but now I'm about to sell my 75-300mm lens because I just never use the long end -- I've found 210mm to be adequate for the majority of my needs at the moment. I've invested in some quality prime lenses (I have 28mm, 50mm, and 100mm -- need an 85mm), and I love shooting with them though I always thought I preferred zooms. Until you start shooting a LOT, you will likely not know what you like to do and what suits your photography style.
Third, check your tripod. If it's a consumer grade one (anything under $75, and that's being miserly), you might consider an upgrade. If you're planning on a lot of hiking in Nepal, you need to look into something lightweight, portable, but strong. That translates to expensive. Trust me -- you don't want to lug around a massive tripod when hiking as you'll just be miserable.
Lastly, don't forget about a quality flash. The onboard flashes of ALL cameras just suck. If you want to do any portrait photography or people photography on a cloudy day, you'll likely want an external flash. Get the higher caliber one for whatever line you pick -- mine was $350 and absolutely worth it.
Bottomline: Go general first and then specialize. I wouldn't reach on the camera body, personally, but I also wouldn't overspend on lenses right out the gate. It would suck to have a great camera body, a fantastic lens, and then realize you don't have the money for a high quality large diameter circular polarizer to make those landscape shots look spectacular.
Thanks for the advice. Sadly my budget just took a huge kick to the nuts with my $800 flight I just booked to dominica for next year for a wedding. Add that to the $315 a night that I have to partially pay in advance and budget is almost nonexistant now.
Care to recommend a polarizer at all?
- Mar 20, 2000
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- 8,552
- 126
if you're packing stuff around the himalayas i'd get an FM2n (or FM3a, which is heavier), load it with negative film (for the exposure latitude), and start training yourself for exposure for if your battery dies (and if you get good at it you can switch to positive film, btw, the term 'digital negative' is stupid). it really isn't all that hard (i find myself going through it in my mind during the day sometimes).
Personally, I'd grab a a used
700 used Nikon D80
700 18-200 vr (you'll be trecking, one lens will be nice to carry without fumbling to change for distances)
70 Good camera bag/backpack
50 8gb memory card and 1gb backup
60 filter kit (uv, polarizer and warming)
60 spare batteries
Save the rest for more lenses when yo ufind out where you're lacking. Could be telephoto, wide or macro.
700 used Nikon D80
700 18-200 vr (you'll be trecking, one lens will be nice to carry without fumbling to change for distances)
70 Good camera bag/backpack
50 8gb memory card and 1gb backup
60 filter kit (uv, polarizer and warming)
60 spare batteries
Save the rest for more lenses when yo ufind out where you're lacking. Could be telephoto, wide or macro.
The good filter brands are B+W, Hoya, Tiffen, and Cokin, not necessarily in any order. B+W is probably the one with the best reputation from what I've deduced, and the prices match -- a 77mm CPL was $145 in a store that I saw! I've had good luck with Hoya, and Cokin has a nice filter system though I've never used it (have a Cokin 58mm CPL which is well made and works great).
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