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Help AC can't keep up with the heat.

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We have been seeing record heat waves this year, lol at those who deny global warming.

The planet is cyclical so it's not easy to determine how much effect the extra carbon dioxide is having although the fact that there is more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is undisputed. Maybe we will forestall the next ice age LOL..
 
You can't just get a bigger unit. If the unit is too big for his square footage he can easily make his house very humid, which is just as bad as having it at 80 degree in his current situation.
Say what? Every conditioned space I've lived in moisture was always being removed.

Most HVAC operators will caution for oversizing a unit because it would lead to short cycling and cause premature wear, and thus warranty issues. I've never heard of not oversizing a unit because of moisture buildup. ANd I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to over size the unit for part of my home due to electronics.
 
Say what? Every conditioned space I've lived in moisture was always being removed.

Most HVAC operators will caution for oversizing a unit because it would lead to short cycling and cause premature wear, and thus warranty issues. I've never heard of not oversizing a unit because of moisture buildup. ANd I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to over size the unit for part of my home due to electronics.

Yeah, air conditioners reduce humidity inherently. :hmm:
 
I think making soapy water would be where it's too much trouble and I call someone.



Depending on where the leak is and how long it takes someone to find it it could end up costing hundreds if not more. You can google some of the cost estimates for doing stuff like this. It's not hard to look for a leak and a lot of the times you'll see the oily residue around the leak.


As for the OP, depending on how big the unit is and what the aims of the builder were, that unit is probably only setup to cool a certain number of degrees below the outside temperature. Say 20.

For most people it's not realistic to think you can cool your home to 68 when it's 118 outside.

Whole house fans are cheap to buy and install. Say ~300, you turn it on in the morning to move in cool air and at night to bring in the cooler evening air. That can help the AC by preventing how long it will run.

Putting a film that blocks some of the heat transfer works and not too expensive.

I went and bought some trees that are pretty decent sized and planted them to block the sun down the road. Just a little shade can do a lot.
 
Say what? Every conditioned space I've lived in moisture was always being removed.

Most HVAC operators will caution for oversizing a unit because it would lead to short cycling and cause premature wear, and thus warranty issues. I've never heard of not oversizing a unit because of moisture buildup. ANd I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to over size the unit for part of my home due to electronics.

I don't think you have even the simplest understanding of how an air conditioner works.
 
Put plastic on inside of your windows, works really well. Keep lights and tv off, if your computer is not in use put it in standby.
 
Say what? Every conditioned space I've lived in moisture was always being removed.

Most HVAC operators will caution for oversizing a unit because it would lead to short cycling and cause premature wear, and thus warranty issues. I've never heard of not oversizing a unit because of moisture buildup. ANd I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to over size the unit for part of my home due to electronics.

"Short cycling" means the unit will run less to maintain a given temp., I can't see where that would lead to a warranty issues as the system will have less operational hours on it. What it will do is not run long enough to de-humidify properly.
 
"Short cycling" means the unit will run less to maintain a given temp., I can't see where that would lead to a warranty issues as the system will have less operational hours on it. What it will do is not run long enough to de-humidify properly.

The frequent starting and stopping is harder on the computers.
 
"Recaptured the freon"?, it's called "pumping down" a system, I doubt you have an EPA license to buy freon or the equipment necessary to do so..

That's why you use propane instead. 😀

Actually I wanted to do this as a science fair project when I was in elementary school. They would not let me. 🙁 What's the fun in a science fair project if it does not have the risk of blowing up half the school?
 
Say what? Every conditioned space I've lived in moisture was always being removed.

Most HVAC operators will caution for oversizing a unit because it would lead to short cycling and cause premature wear, and thus warranty issues. I've never heard of not oversizing a unit because of moisture buildup. ANd I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to over size the unit for part of my home due to electronics.

AC does two things: pulls out warm, humid air and blows in cooled air. It's easier to get a temperature down than it is to bring the humidity down, so if you have too large a unit for your square footage, you will easily cool the house down but the AC unit won't be on long enough to pull out the moist air, leaving your house cooled, but humid.
 
Hot air hitting cold coils causes condensation, this condensation drips off, into the pan then into the basement drain. This means as the AC is running moisture is being removed from the air... which in summer, is a good thing. The less it runs, the less moisture is removed. Idealy I think it's good to have a slightly oversized unit, then just keep the temp a bit lower. When those 100F heat waves hit, you are ready.
 
Short of making sure the condenser coils are clean and your filter isn't clogged there isn't a whole lot else you can do on your own IMHO.

QFT, have a tech clean the system and then take an amp reading at the compressor. It will tell you if you are 'maxed' out.

Unfortunately I have a similar issue with my system. The previous owner sized the system correctly when he added on about 500 more square feet to the house, however; he didn't properly increase the air intake enough (the minor problem I have) and decided only two 4" vents were adequate for the 350 sq ft family room addition he put on. The way he built it, I can't really increase those ducts without raising the roof to do it. He forced those 4" ducts through so they are even running at the full CFM.

What happens is the rest of my house works to cool down that outer room...I need roof work done soon and I will try to address that issue with that job...a single 8" duct in the middle of the room would do it.
 
Most home A/C systems are designed to maintain a 20° differential (max). Good insulation, venting the attic and all the other things mentioned in this thread help to keep it even cooler.
 
QFT, have a tech clean the system and then take an amp reading at the compressor. It will tell you if you are 'maxed' out.

Unfortunately I have a similar issue with my system. The previous owner sized the system correctly when he added on about 500 more square feet to the house, however; he didn't properly increase the air intake enough (the minor problem I have) and decided only two 4" vents were adequate for the 350 sq ft family room addition he put on. The way he built it, I can't really increase those ducts without raising the roof to do it. He forced those 4" ducts through so they are even running at the full CFM.

What happens is the rest of my house works to cool down that outer room...I need roof work done soon and I will try to address that issue with that job...a single 8" duct in the middle of the room would do it.

You can always buy a 8K BTU window-shaker in the short term, probably around $225 or so..
 
You can always buy a 8K BTU window-shaker in the short term, probably around $225 or so..
we've gotten by on two 5K units for ten years now. Smaller house, short season and 90 is a very hot day around here. It will go 90 for the next few days and the house will stay ~70.
 
You can always buy a 8K BTU window-shaker in the short term, probably around $225 or so..

Actually the plan, I have 220V on that outside wall. The previous homeowner supplemented that room with a very small inefficient 120V unit that just ran maxed out until it burned out.
 
AC does two things: pulls out warm, humid air and blows in cooled air. It's easier to get a temperature down than it is to bring the humidity down, so if you have too large a unit for your square footage, you will easily cool the house down but the AC unit won't be on long enough to pull out the moist air, leaving your house cooled, but humid.

If you want more moisture removed, it may be necessary to cool the air down even lower and heating that air, so it's a double whammy.

If anyone's interested, look into psychrometric charts for an idea of how the process works. They are very intuitive and easy to use once you understand them.
 
If you turn the furnace AND the AC on at the same time, it will be the ultimate turbo dehumidifier. I have a feeling it would be hard on the evap coil though to have such high heat hitting it.
 
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