Havoline motor oil at Kmart $1/qt otd

[TechnoKid]

BITOG on that webbie, havoline/chevron dino oil is a pretty well regarded oil.

It's right up there with Chevron supreme dino, Penzoil dino, and Castrol GTX dino (in that order). Chevron-Texaco are the same company; this havoline oil is the same as the Chevron supreme according to their MSDS.

Don't think that because this oil is inexspensive that its cheap oil. It produces good used oil analysis results for 3-5k drain intervals.

It's at kmart for $1 otd here in central California thru 2/7. I don't know if it is regional or not.

 

[Salvador]

I'm going to put this in my Z06. I'm sick of paying $2-$3 a quart at Jiffy Lube.

Sal

 

[fzj80]

I guess $1/quart is descent, although it's not alot more than that anywhere normally. Walmart has several dino brands around $1/quart. As far as quality as far as I'm concerned it's all the same till you get to synthetic. If you watch any race coverage when they talk about their engines and oil, it's amazing how much better synthetic oil is than dino (even synthetic uses some dino though). I only buy Mobil 1, which is about $4/quart, very good oil, which is why most of the top cars in the world come with it already in their engines, BMWs do, Benz's do, even the Vette does now I think.

Out...

 

[jpeyton]

Vettes come with Mobil 1 Sal.

 

[RU482]

Originally posted by: Salvador
I'm going to put this in my Z06. I'm sick of paying $2-$3 a quart at Jiffy Lube.

Sal

Ouch, I think if I had a high end motor like the one in a Z06, I'd pop the extra cash for Mobile 1
Of course, If you're only gonna have the car for a short period of time, who cares

 

[JackReynolds99]

Originally posted by: Salvador
I'm going to put this in my Z06. I'm sick of paying $2-$3 a quart at Jiffy Lube.

Sal

Yeah, I'm sure you really have a Z06. If you really had a Z06 you would know better, not to put this crap motor oil in your engine.

 

[Cullinaire]

Jiffy Lube itself is an iffy place as well.

If I had a Z06 I certainly wouldn't trust it to a JL.

 

[db]

re dino oil, if it has the API label, it's good stuff, doesn't matter how inexpensive it is.
You can spend more for dino oil, just like you can flush $ down the toilet.

 

[Rumpltzer]

Originally posted by: Cullinaire
Jiffy Lube itself is an iffy place as well.

If I had a Z06 I certainly wouldn't trust it to a JL.

So... just out of curiosity... if you had a Z06, where would you take it? I mean, if Jiffy Lube is out, then I assume Wal-Mart is out as well and certainly no one should trust Sears Auto Center (do they even do oil changes?). So what option is left? A dealership? A "real" mechanic? A tire place??!

I've heard some bad stories about Wal-Mart and Jiffy Lube. In two cases, the cap was left off and there was oil all over inside the engine compartment. My sister went back to demand they pay for the clean-up and the replacement of that pad that lined the underside of her hood. The manager refused and gave her a refund on the oil change! *slap*

In another instance, the place simply forgot to put oil in the car.

Personally, I've put 180K miles onto some crappy 1987 Chevy truck. I change my own oil.

 

[greasemonkey]

I used to be the grease and lube guy for a trucking outfit. They would determine oil change intervals after doing an analysis of the used oil and see how much and what kind of contaminant was in the oil. The bottom line on oil changes is that no matter what kind of oil you use, both the quality of the filter and how often you change it is really more important. Some of the oil quick change shops use very cheap filters knowing that you don't know the difference. (At least WalMart uses a half way decent Framm filter on their changes.) If you drive short distances, cold weather, (rich fuel conditions) dusty conditions, towing, high compression (engine wear), then change your oil frequently (3000 miles is just fine). If you do longer trips in other than the above conditions then 5000 to even 7000 miles is just fine. Just use a good filter that will get rid of most of the particles in the oil. Look on the filter box and see how efficient it is at getting rid of small particles. All good filters will show this information. Remember, no oil filter gets rid of the fluid/fuel that seeps into the oil so an older engine really needs more frequent oil changes. I personally use synthetic because of better flow and starting in cold weather and better protection against wear, but I do keep my vehicles for 10+ years and this is the cheapest "insurance" you can buy. Using the best doesn't really cost that much more especially if you're going to resell a classic or sports car. It's all relative, how long are you going to keep the vehicle and how much wear and tear are you going to put on the engine? If I leased a vehicle, I'd only change it at the required interval with the cheapest stuff available. Also, if you're big on keeping your vehicle in top shape, then keep records and receipts. I'd pay more for and buy a car knowing it's history and knowing that it's been well taken care of. That means engine oil changes, trans oil changes, belts, hoses, antifreeze, brakes, recall items, tire rotations and balancing, etc.

 

[thebestMAX]

Good post, greasemonkey!

I have always said it was more important ot change your oil and filter often enough than it was what brand of oil you used.

Presonally I would never use Havoline but did years ago and many dealerships used to also.

Use Great filter, good oil, good intervals.