Has anyone built a deck addition onto their house?

[Soapy Bones]

This is the summer of my junior year in college and I am going to be home all summer working for my dad's business and need a project for the evenings as I will be working until 5-6 every day. We currently have a concrete slab patio on the back of our house which is not used very often because it's not very nice anymore. The door and sliding glass door are raised either 12-18" above the ground level and there are just steps going down to it. The steps and platforms are cracking and in need of replacing.

I was thinking that as a project I would remove (or have them removed) and build a wood deck that matches the floor level of our house. I plan to do this all on my own, and have access to power tools and saws and whatnot, I dont have any heavy machinery though. Is this a feasible project to undertake in 3 months time to basically accomplish on my own?

 

[DeadByDawn]

You could do it easy in that amount of time. Just go to lowe's and buy a book on building decks. The lumber is going to be very expensive, that CCA stuff is high.

 

[Jumpem]

I'd think so.

You'd have to remove the concrete and dig post holes. Put those cardboard tubes in the holes and make concrete mounting points, and put brackets for 4x4s into the concrete footings. Then use some 2x8s to make a framework. Cover with deck boards. Add a railing if you like.

Home Depot or Lowes could use your overall dimensions to figure out how much lumber and miscellanous supplies you need.

 

[meltdown75]

You can do it. I built mine (with a lot of instruction from my father-in-law mind you). Just figure out how many 4x4 posts you will need (if that's what you will be using which you most likely will) and dig holes 4' deep. I used an old-fashioned post-hole digger to dig mine, 22 holes in all (fair size deck!). Once the holes are dug, you throw your posts in and stabilize them with some stakes and 2x4s. Then you can just pour in your concrete mix, and the moisture from the ground will harden the concrete within a couple of days. Once you get your posts in and stable, you can begin framing the deck. It's a great project, and not that hard to do at all. You can PM me if you need any tips... I'm not a handyman by any stretch though, and there are some members here that are.

Good luck though! :beer:

 

[DeMeo]

You might want to check with the town/city building inspector to get the propper permits. Better to play by the rules. If you do it without approval, they could make you tear it down and/or fine you. Code in most places requires the post holes to be inspected and signed off on before you pour the concrete (they want to make sure they are deep enough.

Also, make sure to flash against the house to prevent water from seeping in to the walls. I beleive that the deck should also be slighty lower than the floor of the house.
Just make sure that you have some good plans before you start.

I know a lot of people don't bother with the town, but occassionaly it will come back to bite you in the a$$ if you don't.

 

[meltdown75]

DeMeo is right... although I didn't get a permit for anything.

When the inspector came to inspect the neighbour's deck, he just glanced over at mine and kept walking. I assume he thought it was included with the house permit. He could have checked into it though, and definitely could have had us tear it down if he wanted to.

Permits are good.

 

[Patt]

I'm the process of building one now. I have removed the old cement patio, and am now working on levelling the area before I build the new deck the next couple of weekends. I don't need a permit for mine because it will be less than 18" off the ground.

I'm getting some assistance from my father in the matter, and hope to have things all ready for the long weekend in 2.5 weeks.

 

[Adica]

mucho dinero.
I looked into it, too much money for me. So instead I am in the process of building a 12 by 12 patio off my small deck.

 

[Soapy Bones]

What methods have those of you who have done this used to remove a concrete patio. I will definitely investigate the local code for building something like this, although it may fall into the category as Patt had as it will not be more than 18 inches off the ground I dont believe.

From what I have seen and read, the most difficult part of the process will be to remove the old patio and set the posts in concrete and from there it is all simple. I am at school now and will be returning home this weekend and plan to make all the precise measurements and draw up a blueprint per say of what I want to do and get my parents approval. My goal is to make this a kind of gift, I think it will do a lot for the value and usablility of our house, I dont expect to be paid for the project and i want to do it because of all they have done for me.

If you have any online resources or other suggestions I greatly appreciate them. Are there any tools that you have used that significantly saved time? I have a circular saw, but should I look into a table saw to make things faster/more precise?


edit

I see that there are some posts concerning costs, just what kind of numbers are we speaking of here? I'm thinking this is going to be (and this is a rough rough estimate) somewhere around a 25' x 10' deck with a railing. No multi levels and one set of stairs.
As im sure climate makes a difference, this is in Northwest Ohio so we see our fair share of just about every weather type there is.

 

[Grunt03]

Looking for summer project

Come to my house and build a deck..........

 

My father and I put a raised deck on the back of his house in 3 weekends.

If you can't accomplish it in 3 months, you off yourself, then have your wife hire someone to do it.

 

[Jzero]

If at all possible, I would build AROUND the patio as opposed to ripping it up...but that just might not be an option...

 

[Soapy Bones]

Originally posted by: SampSon
My father and I put a raised deck on the back of his house in 3 weekends.

If you can't accomplish it in 3 months, you off yourself, then have your wife hire someone to do it.

Haha funny,
I'm 21 and as the OP states im going to be home for the summers running our family business during the days, and want something to do over the evenings/weekends to keep myself busy.

 

[CPA]

How timely, I am about a month into building mine.

An overview (I kid you not):

approx. 750 sq ft.
#2 pine treated wood
raised dining area
pond built in the deck
jacuzzi built into the deck (pic was posted a few weeks ago)
27 20" piers were dug an poured (used an auger - essential)
8'x8' 4" slab was poured for the jacuzzi.
100 amp sub breaker box was installed and electric laid (21" deep) for pond, jacuzzi and lights.
Building it myself, with the help of the wife when she's available. I am about half way done.

Let me know and I can send you pics.


BTW, I did not set the posts into the concrete. Because I built mine low to the ground, I used beam anchors. In fact, I did not use and 4x4 posts at all. The raised deck joists were install perpendicular to three beams spaced four feet apart. I tied them down using hurricane ties and toenailing the joists to the beams.

 

[amdskip]

If you pour concrete, you will have to go below the frost line which is probably 48". I wouldn't really worry about removing the patio if it is stable and not moving.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Tearing out the old patio will be the hard part. Sledge hammer or rent a jack hammer and cart it off if it must go. Building decks is cake. Digging the post holes sucks to do by hand, but living in the cold climate you really need them. Cost is up to you. But I can suggest you stake out the 25' x 10' area first and see what you think. In my mind that is looking like a bowling alley lane. Too skinny and long. Plus, to make things easier for you, think in terms of normal board lengths. Ie: 10', 12', 14',16'. Not having to bridge joists will make your life easier if this is your first building project.
You really only need the basic tools like circ. saw, tape, 4' level, framing square, speed square, string, good screw gun etc. Screw the decking down, do not nail it.
I think you may be surprised at the cost. It can be a fair chunk of $$$. Anywhere from $1200 up depending on what you do. Probably well more on the "up" side if you're thinking 25' x 10'.
But once the posts are in, it shouldn't take but a couple nights to do. I've built many decks in a Saturday afternoon. Some very elaborate ones at that.
j

 

[MikeMike]

Originally posted by: CPA
How timely, I am about a month into building mine.

An overview (I kid you not):

approx. 750 sq ft.
#2 pine treated wood
raised dining area
pond built in the deck
jacuzzi built into the deck (pic was posted a few weeks ago)
27 20" piers were dug an poured (used an auger - essential)
8'x8' 4" slab was poured for the jacuzzi.
100 amp sub breaker box was installed and electric laid (21" deep) for pond, jacuzzi and lights.
Building it myself, with the help of the wife when she's available. I am about half way done.

Let me know and I can send you pics.


BTW, I did not set the posts into the concrete. Because I built mine low to the ground, I used beam anchors. In fact, I did not use and 4x4 posts at all. The raised deck joists were install perpendicular to three beams spaced four feet apart. I tied them down using hurricane ties and toenailing the joists to the beams.

if you have the spare money, use the plastic "wood" its VERY VERY VERY nice, although its not the same color, its quality is very good. no spliting, no splinters, and no warping of the boards.

also, if you use regular wood, when you install the wood make sure the grain, which should be in a half circle, the other half of the circle would be on the bottom of the deck, it helps in the warping so as to not warp as much, or not warp at all.

we used an excavator to tear our concrete out, so no help there.

build the railings within code for the deck, as we did not. (father would rather see a baby fall 2 ft, than get its head stuck, and all it would be falling onto is mulch)

Our 6 person hot tub sits ON TOP of the deck, and was put in as an after thought. so my brother got to crawl under the deck and dig the holes.

i believe our deck is in the 1000 sq. ft range.

MIKE

 

[DrPizza]

Question 1: why remove the old patio?
You can use very short 4x4 posts or simply put your joists across the patio. Piece of cake if the patio is level. If not level, then you'll have to rip a slight angle on the joists to make them lie level. If the deck is far from level, it's a pita to do this - remove the patio instead.

But, if the patio is fairly level, some pressure treated shims, or a small amount of concrete poured "just the right thickness in the right areas" will allow the joists to sit level.

I checked: you live in Ohio. You do NOT want the deck to be floor level. Otherwise, after a snowfall, it'll be like having the bottom of your door under water. I learned this the hard way. - you can't flash the door. This will lead to some sort of moisture problem around the door.

Personally, I think the neatest jobs I've seen for decks had plastic or other anti-plant growing material under them, covered with a layer of gravel. If you do this, the patio won't matter. I did a similar job a few years ago - I started by attempting to remove the patio, but it was 10 inches thick (the 4 inch thick patio cracked, so they replaced it by pouring a 6 inch thick patio on top of it without removing it first) Sledgehammer had no effect on it.

 

[MikeMike]

Originally posted by: DrPizza
Question 1: why remove the old patio?
You can use very short 4x4 posts or simply put your joists across the patio. Piece of cake if the patio is level. If not level, then you'll have to rip a slight angle on the joists to make them lie level. If the deck is far from level, it's a pita to do this - remove the patio instead.

But, if the patio is fairly level, some pressure treated shims, or a small amount of concrete poured "just the right thickness in the right areas" will allow the joists to sit level.

I checked: you live in Ohio. You do NOT want the deck to be floor level. Otherwise, after a snowfall, it'll be like having the bottom of your door under water. I learned this the hard way. - you can't flash the door. This will lead to some sort of moisture problem around the door.

Personally, I think the neatest jobs I've seen for decks had plastic or other anti-plant growing material under them, covered with a layer of gravel. If you do this, the patio won't matter. I did a similar job a few years ago - I started by attempting to remove the patio, but it was 10 inches thick (the 4 inch thick patio cracked, so they replaced it by pouring a 6 inch thick patio on top of it without removing it first) Sledgehammer had no effect on it.

heh, thats why we had the excavator, ours was 6" thick in some places. and our driveway is 6+" thick i do believe so we dont kill it if we happen to drive a full dumptruck over it, or whatnot. of course, this also is just because my father poured it

MIKE

 

[DeadByDawn]

I agree. Leave the old deck if possible. You can buy small concrete pads that take a 4x4 into the top of them, all you have to do is level the bottom. The concrete from the old deck will prevent plants from growing under your deck.

 

[CPA]

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1

Originally posted by: CPA
How timely, I am about a month into building mine.

An overview (I kid you not):

approx. 750 sq ft.
#2 pine treated wood
raised dining area
pond built in the deck
jacuzzi built into the deck (pic was posted a few weeks ago)
27 20" piers were dug an poured (used an auger - essential)
8'x8' 4" slab was poured for the jacuzzi.
100 amp sub breaker box was installed and electric laid (21" deep) for pond, jacuzzi and lights.
Building it myself, with the help of the wife when she's available. I am about half way done.

Let me know and I can send you pics.


BTW, I did not set the posts into the concrete. Because I built mine low to the ground, I used beam anchors. In fact, I did not use and 4x4 posts at all. The raised deck joists were install perpendicular to three beams spaced four feet apart. I tied them down using hurricane ties and toenailing the joists to the beams.

if you have the spare money, use the plastic "wood" its VERY VERY VERY nice, although its not the same color, its quality is very good. no spliting, no splinters, and no warping of the boards.

also, if you use regular wood, when you install the wood make sure the grain, which should be in a half circle, the other half of the circle would be on the bottom of the deck, it helps in the warping so as to not warp as much, or not warp at all.

we used an excavator to tear our concrete out, so no help there.

build the railings within code for the deck, as we did not. (father would rather see a baby fall 2 ft, than get its head stuck, and all it would be falling onto is mulch)

Our 6 person hot tub sits ON TOP of the deck, and was put in as an after thought. so my brother got to crawl under the deck and dig the holes.

i believe our deck is in the 1000 sq. ft range.

MIKE

The fake stuff was way more expensive than the pine I bought. All in all the wood, joist hangers and nails ran me about $2500 at Lowes after a 10% discount.

 

[Anubis]

we paied someone to do it for us, cost 3K

 

[Soapy Bones]

Some followups to posts thus far, thanks for the responses and help so far!

Originally posted by: CPA
How timely, I am about a month into building mine.

An overview (I kid you not):

approx. 750 sq ft.
#2 pine treated wood
raised dining area
pond built in the deck
jacuzzi built into the deck (pic was posted a few weeks ago)
27 20" piers were dug an poured (used an auger - essential)
8'x8' 4" slab was poured for the jacuzzi.
100 amp sub breaker box was installed and electric laid (21" deep) for pond, jacuzzi and lights.
Building it myself, with the help of the wife when she's available. I am about half way done.

Let me know and I can send you pics.


BTW, I did not set the posts into the concrete. Because I built mine low to the ground, I used beam anchors. In fact, I did not use and 4x4 posts at all. The raised deck joists were install perpendicular to three beams spaced four feet apart. I tied them down using hurricane ties and toenailing the joists to the beams.

I saw your thread recently about the hot tub which prompted me to ask about this on here. I dont think I'll be doing anything with a hot tub or anything like that, the mission here is to make the deck a more usable space for eating, grilling, being outdoors.

Originally posted by: StrangeRanger
Tearing out the old patio will be the hard part. Sledge hammer or rent a jack hammer and cart it off if it must go. Building decks is cake. Digging the post holes sucks to do by hand, but living in the cold climate you really need them. Cost is up to you. But I can suggest you stake out the 25' x 10' area first and see what you think. In my mind that is looking like a bowling alley lane. Too skinny and long. Plus, to make things easier for you, think in terms of normal board lengths. Ie: 10', 12', 14',16'. Not having to bridge joists will make your life easier if this is your first building project.
You really only need the basic tools like circ. saw, tape, 4' level, framing square, speed square, string, good screw gun etc. Screw the decking down, do not nail it.
I think you may be surprised at the cost. It can be a fair chunk of $$$. Anywhere from $1200 up depending on what you do. Probably well more on the "up" side if you're thinking 25' x 10'.
But once the posts are in, it shouldn't take but a couple nights to do. I've built many decks in a Saturday afternoon. Some very elaborate ones at that.
j

As far as the dimensions, I am just estimating by what I can recall. I will have actual measurements on Friday. I dont have any intention of making the deck any bigger than the existing patio that is currently there, which I will measure soon. It is my first project I'll be doing on my own, but I have assisted on quite a few projects in construction.

I plan to use traditional wood, as the "plastic wood" is going to bump the project well out of my range, although I am aware of its benefits.

Originally posted by: DrPizza
Question 1: why remove the old patio?
You can use very short 4x4 posts or simply put your joists across the patio. Piece of cake if the patio is level. If not level, then you'll have to rip a slight angle on the joists to make them lie level. If the deck is far from level, it's a pita to do this - remove the patio instead.

But, if the patio is fairly level, some pressure treated shims, or a small amount of concrete poured "just the right thickness in the right areas" will allow the joists to sit level.

I checked: you live in Ohio. You do NOT want the deck to be floor level. Otherwise, after a snowfall, it'll be like having the bottom of your door under water. I learned this the hard way. - you can't flash the door. This will lead to some sort of moisture problem around the door.

Personally, I think the neatest jobs I've seen for decks had plastic or other anti-plant growing material under them, covered with a layer of gravel. If you do this, the patio won't matter. I did a similar job a few years ago - I started by attempting to remove the patio, but it was 10 inches thick (the 4 inch thick patio cracked, so they replaced it by pouring a 6 inch thick patio on top of it without removing it first) Sledgehammer had no effect on it.

The patio is flat across one side of it, with a step up to the sliding patio door, but then on the other normal door, it has a roughly 4x5 raised platform, that has two steps down. I dont know how well I would be able to build over this, although it would obviously be much easier. The patio is fairly level, with a slite grade away from the house because of settling, one of hte main reasons we want to do something different. The concrete for the flat section is rather thin, only 3-4 inches from my recollection.

As for the comments about the deck being level, I assume you mean being exactly level with the doorway. From what I have read it is still common to have at least an inch or two inches of clearance from the top of the decking to the bottom of the doorway, which i think would eliminate this problem.

Ideally I would not have to remove the patio because its clearly the most difficult part of the project, I just fear that the deck wont be very stable. I've seen both ways of building... attaching it to the house and leaving it free standing, from my experience level I think i would prefer to have it free standing and next to the house as opposed to being into the house.

Thanks for all the replys and all the future ones.

 

[Soapy Bones]

bump for night crew

 

[Squisher]

I'm too lazy to spend all the time a deck needs for upkeep. Raised paver patios for me.