hardwiring my house: which RJ45 keystone jack to choose?

[kevnich2]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: TwiceOver
Go to Menards/Lowes/Home Depot get the 1000' spool and they will have all of the wall plates/jacks you could imagine. The jacks that I bought came with a cheapy little plastic punch tool that worked just fine for the task. Also get a patch panel for wherever the wiring ends up.

Also, I thought I would never use all 1000' but the box is getting awefully light. How many devices? Just my entertainment center took 6x70ft runs. Another 4x60 to my desk, 2x80 upstairs, 1x200 to the garage... It adds up quickly.

Sorry, new to this stuff. what's a patch panel?

Looks like this (for illustration purpose only). This one has LED to indicate if it is connected.

http://www.bestlinknetware.com...-detail.asp?sku=102228

usually goes in the server room. in your case mechanical room, and you have one socket in the room wired to one port on the patch panel. Then you use patch cables to connect these to the router. You can skip it and just terminate the end with a connector and patch directly into the router. It's fine for home use.

I still dont understand why I need a patch panel. I was thinking of getting a multi-hole keystone wallplate in the room my router will be. Then from that room, I will run wires out to all other rooms ending in a one hole keystone wallplate. Each RJ45 connector in the multi-hole keystone will connect to a different router port via a small patch cable. Will this not work?

Yes, this option would work just fine if your only talking about a few runs.

 

[TwiceOver]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: TwiceOver
Go to Menards/Lowes/Home Depot get the 1000' spool and they will have all of the wall plates/jacks you could imagine. The jacks that I bought came with a cheapy little plastic punch tool that worked just fine for the task. Also get a patch panel for wherever the wiring ends up.

Also, I thought I would never use all 1000' but the box is getting awefully light. How many devices? Just my entertainment center took 6x70ft runs. Another 4x60 to my desk, 2x80 upstairs, 1x200 to the garage... It adds up quickly.

Sorry, new to this stuff. what's a patch panel?

Looks like this (for illustration purpose only). This one has LED to indicate if it is connected.

http://www.bestlinknetware.com...-detail.asp?sku=102228

usually goes in the server room. in your case mechanical room, and you have one socket in the room wired to one port on the patch panel. Then you use patch cables to connect these to the router. You can skip it and just terminate the end with a connector and patch directly into the router. It's fine for home use.

I still dont understand why I need a patch panel. I was thinking of getting a multi-hole keystone wallplate in the room my router will be. Then from that room, I will run wires out to all other rooms ending in a one hole keystone wallplate. Each RJ45 connector in the multi-hole keystone will connect to a different router port via a small patch cable. Will this not work?

Yeah that will work fine. What I was getting at is expansion. How many devices now? How many in the future? If it is just a few then go for it, just remember that almost everything comes with an RJ45 these days.

 

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: dNor

Originally posted by: TwiceOver

I'll post a pic of my rack when I get home.

Yes. Yes please do.

Pervert.

 

[TwiceOver]

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: dNor

Originally posted by: TwiceOver

I'll post a pic of my rack when I get home.

Yes. Yes please do.

Pervert.

Trust me... Nobody wants to see "My" rack.

 

[child of wonder]

Originally posted by: spidey07
If it's new cable then you don't want cat5e, use cat6a so you'll be able to use 10 gigabit.

Also you can't use patch cables and cut the ends off, that's stranded cable that can't be punched down.

This.

When I built my house 2 years ago I paid extra to go with Cat6. If we're still here in a couple years I won't regret the extra $100 to have 10Gb ethernet running throughout the house.

 

[keird]

I vote getting the punch tool. It's a much better quality connection. I've tried both kinds of RJ-45 jacks and prefer the 'punch' version.

Running your own cable is pretty satisfying, too. I ran 2 x CAT-6 and 1 coax cables to 5 or 6 wall plates during a remodel as a favor [read: practice on someone else's house]. That person can now use jumpers to decide if they want a port used as data or telephone, all from one central location. If I did my home I'd use raceways for any more wire, though. I still don't know if fiberoptics will be routinely used in homes, so it's nice to have a pre-determined path via a raceway.

 

[yuppiejr]

http://www.deepsurplus.com/

Punch down tool: ($12.50 - adjustable)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/Net...age-Compartment-TL231A

Cable Stripper for CAT5e/6 ($10)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/Net...ackAs-low-as-5-25-font

110 blade for punch down tool ($6.50)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOM...e-For-Our-TL231A-Tools

12-port wall mount CAT6 patch panel ($36)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/Net...ckAs-low-as-15-60-font

1000 foot spool of blue CAT6 cable ($130)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/Net...lk-UTP-PVC-Solid-Cable

CAT6 Keystone Jacks (various colors - $2.32 each, discounts per unit in quantity)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOM...rs-110-punch-down-type

Keystone Wall Plates (various colors and connector configurations - variable price)

http://www.deepsurplus.com/Net...g/Keystone-Wall-Plates

CAT6 patch cables:

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOM...6-Network-Patch-Cables

..

I find 110 type punch down connectors are easier to get right as a casual installer versus the manual "snap" connectors. I figured $20 for the tool and blade paid off in the time it saved to complete all of the termination work. The cable stripper is optional in my experience if you have a sharp pair of scissors handy. Your idea to use 6 keystone jacks in a wall plate is viable in lieu of a patch panel if you are installing in a spot where aesthetics are important. I have all of my cable runs and equipment terminating on plywood in my laundry room so a patch panel was easier to work with and gave me some flexibility with future growth.

You could save a few bucks on parts by going with CAT5e... but given the time and effort involved in doing the work I'd go with the advice here and consider putting in CAT6. If you figure in the value of your time and energy is the same installing either 5e or 6 the minimal difference in parts versus a possible 10x difference in performance down the road I think it's a pretty sensible option.

 

[mugs]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: spidey07
If it's new cable then you don't want cat5e, use cat6a so you'll be able to use 10 gigabit.

Also you can't use patch cables and cut the ends off, that's stranded cable that can't be punched down.

re cat5e vs cat6: I was reading up on it via google and it was inconclusive whether in real world applications if cat6 will show a noticeable improvement or not. So the extra cash for cat6 is worth it?

and i didnt know that patch cables are stranded. This is the first time Im doing this. Thanks for the info. Is there anywhere I can get ~500 ft of cat5e/cat6 cables? Monoprice only sells them in 1000ft chunks and I only need about 400-500 ft

Yes. When you sell your house in 10 years, you can tell the buyer that you used Cat6 and not Cat5e, because no one will be using Cat5e for Ethernet in 10 years.

Run more lines than you think you need. I ran 4 to each room. I might run more to the family room, because I realized I already have 5 devices that use Ethernet which may be located in the family room (Xbox 360, PS3, HTPC, Slingbox, TiVo... it adds up). You don't have to wire all of them to your patch panel if you don't need them, but it's good to have the extra lines in the walls.

 

[mugs]

Also -
Since you're already running Cat6, it'd be a good time to run phone lines and RG-6 to rooms that don't already have them.

Buy a fish tape, it's worth it. I only got a 25 ft fish tape, which is fine for a home.

Are you going up to the second floor? I bought an 18" drill bit so I could drill straight down and have the holes line up. In retrospect, I'd recommend against this. Using a big drill bit requires a big hole in your wall so you can have it be perfectly vertical. I ended up with a much shorter Irwin Speedbor bit that was much easier to work with. As long as you measure carefully, the holes will more or less line up and it won't be difficult to get your fish tape through both holes.

I don't remember where you live in NJ, but I live in Branchburg and you could borrow some of my stuff if you'd like (i.e. fish tape, big drill bit, coax stripper and compression tool).

And good luck, I hope you don't run into any of the issues I ran into.

 

[Aharami]

thanks mugs. yea cat6 seems like the better option, especially since Im putting hard work into it - might as well do it right. Still dont know which option Im going to go with. My original plan was to run 4 100' patched cables from the 2nd bedroom (which is right above the garage) to my master bedroom (via attic), living room and kitchen (via garage then basement), and basement. With this plan my router would've been in the 2nd bedroom/office and would've allowed me 1 run to master and kitchen, and max of 2 to living room and basement (which I'll eventually make into a family/media room).

But now Im thinking it might be better to put the modem/router in the basement and run 2 to each bedroom, 3 to living and basement, and 1 to kitchen. But this would require me to use the pushdown tool and since Ive never done that, Im not sure how hard/easy it is to get right. Also this plan would increase the costs above my budget as I'd have to get the 1000' cat6 cable as well as a patch panel.

Not sure if all the extra connections are really necessary

 

[OCGuy]

When I hardwire my mouse, I usually just use a slightly-moist hand towel that I have microwaved for 16 seconds......that and a trust copy of Grand Theft Anal.

 

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: Aharami
thanks mugs. yea cat6 seems like the better option, especially since Im putting hard work into it - might as well do it right. Still dont know which option Im going to go with. My original plan was to run 4 100' patched cables from the 2nd bedroom (which is right above the garage) to my master bedroom (via attic), living room and kitchen (via garage then basement), and basement. With this plan my router would've been in the 2nd bedroom/office and would've allowed me 1 run to master and kitchen, and max of 2 to living room and basement (which I'll eventually make into a family/media room).

But now Im thinking it might be better to put the modem/router in the basement and run 2 to each bedroom, 3 to living and basement, and 1 to kitchen. But this would require me to use the pushdown tool and since Ive never done that, Im not sure how hard/easy it is to get right. Also this plan would increase the costs above my budget as I'd have to get the 1000' cat6 cable as well as a patch panel.

Not sure if all the extra connections are really necessary

Better to have extra than not enough. just buy a spool and quad port each room

 

[SoulAssassin]

Just wondering if you are using plenum cable?

 

[Nik]

You don't need a special tool. I've wired those kind of "tool required" jacks with a small screwdriver.

Go with whatever's cheapest.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: SoulAssassin
Just wondering if you are using plenum cable?

wasnt planning on it. It's a lot more expensive and I wont be running near any heat sources (unless attic counts as a heat source)

 

[skyking]

Plenum rated wire is for use in a plenum.
A plenum is a space usually above a false ceiling that acts as the upper heating duct, and is more common in commercial building construction. Plenum jacket material will not give off toxic fumes as it burns, that is the difference. It is also more of a pain to pull, the jacket material is more prone to snags and assholes. It is not necessary in house wiring, unless you plan on pulling wire through your heating ducts. (bad idea there!)
I used keystones in a couple of 6 port wall plates for my home office termination. It works great, and there is no adverse impact in the room should we sell and the next owners not care about network wiring. The whole thing is flush to the wall. It is a certifiable installation.

 

[akshatp]

Hey bro I know a place in Dayton that you can get all this stuff for at a tenth of the price of home depot.

They will also sell you cable in the length you want it.

Its a wholesaler but I can order the stuff for you on my account and you can go there and pay cash.

Ill give you the details via PM If you are interested.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: akshatp
Hey bro I know a place in Dayton that you can get all this stuff for at a tenth of the price of home depot.

They will also sell you cable in the length you want it.

Its a wholesaler but I can order the stuff for you on my account and you can go there and pay cash.

Ill give you the details via PM If you are interested.

wow man, you got the hookup in lots of places. Yea I'd sure appreciate that.

 

[yuppiejr]

Originally posted by: Nik
You don't need a special tool. I've wired those kind of "tool required" jacks with a small screwdriver.

Go with whatever's cheapest.

Using a screwdriver to terminate 110 blocks is a HORRIBLE idea, it will permanently damage the block by increasing the space between the "teeth" in the connectors creating an intermittent connection problem long term. If you're spending the money for the cables and connectors why be dumb and cheap out on a $20 tool to do the job properly? If he didn't want to buy a punchdown tool his best option would be the tool less jacks versus ghetto-rigging the 110 style blocks with the wrong tools.

Also - plenum cable is only required in installations in plenum airspace. Don't run PVC jacketed cable through your air ducts or air space used by the HVAC system as an air return and you will be fine.

OP - keep in mind that most of the people giving advice here enjoy the challenge and complexity of this sort of project (myself included) and are probably overthinking the solution you actually need. While there is a point at which you may find a more complex wiring solution is worth looking at I think you are being steered toward installing way more product that you need to meet your current needs.

The easiest to install and least costly option for 4 stations is a hybrid of your original plan using 4 long premade patch cables and 8 of the "coupler style" keystone jacks linked previously in this thread. Toss in a 4 plex keystone plate for the room where you have your router and 4 x single jack plates and http://www.showmecables.com/ came out around $100 for the whole project ($25 a room). It will be pretty much the easiest install ever, no tools required (unless you need a fishtape to get cable down walls) and much cheaper than doing a larger scale structured wiring solution for just a few workstations. I think the point at which you are going to realize enough savings to justify the added expense and complexity of a full blown DIY wiring job would be once you hit 7+ stations.

 

[jalaram]

I'm hoping to wire my house as well. Not to all of the rooms, but just the ones that already have a cable or phone jack already (which I assume are attached and not a keystone style). How hard is it to replace the current coax wall plate with a coax keystone? Do I have to strip the wire to connect it to the keystone? For the network cable, I'll use a patch/keystone coupler, but will that work for the cable jack as well?

 

[mugs]

Originally posted by: jalaram
I'm hoping to wire my house as well. Not to all of the rooms, but just the ones that already have a cable or phone jack already (which I assume are attached and not a keystone style). How hard is it to replace the current coax wall plate with a coax keystone? Do I have to strip the wire to connect it to the keystone? For the network cable, I'll use a patch/keystone coupler, but will that work for the cable jack as well?

No, the cable jack should just be a F-F connector with a regular coax cable screwed on from the back, just like the equivalent keystone jack.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: yuppiejr
OP - keep in mind that most of the people giving advice here enjoy the challenge and complexity of this sort of project (myself included) and are probably overthinking the solution you actually need. While there is a point at which you may find a more complex wiring solution is worth looking at I think you are being steered toward installing way more product that you need to meet your current needs.

The easiest to install and least costly option for 4 stations is a hybrid of your original plan using 4 long premade patch cables and 8 of the "coupler style" keystone jacks linked previously in this thread. Toss in a 4 plex keystone plate for the room where you have your router and 4 x single jack plates and http://www.showmecables.com/ came out around $100 for the whole project ($25 a room). It will be pretty much the easiest install ever, no tools required (unless you need a fishtape to get cable down walls) and much cheaper than doing a larger scale structured wiring solution for just a few workstations. I think the point at which you are going to realize enough savings to justify the added expense and complexity of a full blown DIY wiring job would be once you hit 7+ stations.

you're definitely onto something there. Also I just dropped $1600 on a TV last night, so Im back to my original budget. Are 100' long patch cables ok for in-wall runs?

 

[PottedMeat]

Originally posted by: skyking
Plenum rated wire is for use in a plenum.
A plenum is a space usually above a false ceiling that acts as the upper heating duct, and is more common in commercial building construction. Plenum jacket material will not give off toxic fumes as it burns, that is the difference. It is also more of a pain to pull, the jacket material is more prone to snags and assholes. It is not necessary in house wiring, unless you plan on pulling wire through your heating ducts. (bad idea there!)
I used keystones in a couple of 6 port wall plates for my home office termination. It works great, and there is no adverse impact in the room should we sell and the next owners not care about network wiring. The whole thing is flush to the wall. It is a certifiable installation.

wat?



Whats the difference between those little plastic punchdown tools you get with leviton Cat5 keystone jacks and the metal ones? The metal ones just last longer?

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: mugs

Originally posted by: jalaram
I'm hoping to wire my house as well. Not to all of the rooms, but just the ones that already have a cable or phone jack already (which I assume are attached and not a keystone style). How hard is it to replace the current coax wall plate with a coax keystone? Do I have to strip the wire to connect it to the keystone? For the network cable, I'll use a patch/keystone coupler, but will that work for the cable jack as well?

No, the cable jack should just be a F-F connector with a regular coax cable screwed on from the back, just like the equivalent keystone jack.

yea. jalaram, you'd need this, this (for cat6), and this to convert a F-type outlet into a F-type and RJ-45 plate

 

[Aharami]

anyone know if bestlinknetware.com is any good? someone posted a link from there, but they dont have any info on resellerratings. They seem to carry cat6 cables in < 1000 ft bulk