Hard drive crashed with extremely valuable data

[mazeroth]

One of the computers where I work is a Pentium2 with a 3.2 gig HD in it. I have been telling them for almost 4 years now that they need to implement a plan to back up the data but no one ever listened. Finally, two weeks ago they did and purchased a brand new computer and I was going to transfer the data over to it. I tried using a null modem cable but the old computer, with Windows 95, didn't have the necessary things installed with it to allow me to use it, and I was without a Windows 95 disk. No problem. I'll just order a parallel Zip drive off ebay and transfer our files that way.

Fast forward a few days. I was off Monday and Tuesday and they took it upon themselves, while I was off, to contact IT to physically remove the old hard drive and install it into the new computer, something I told them they shouldn't do. Needless to say, now the hard drive doesn't work! I tried the hard drive back in the original system without any luck. I forget the exact error message on the original, circa 1997 PC, but it's something like "no physical disk found". I even hooked it up to an IDE to USB adapter, knowing it wouldn't work, and it didn't.

So, what are my options? Before I send it off and spend $2000 I was wondering if there was any way I could try to get this thing to read? It doesn't make any grinding noises and sounds like a perfectly healthy HD. I only need about 500mb of data in a single folder so if I do have to send it off I pray it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I did read about putting it in a freezer for an hour (yeah) and trying that, or using a Linux boot CD and crossing my fingers.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[thescreensavers]

Freezer trick helps some times, but you read that up...

Good luck on the info

 

[SolMiester]

Does the BIOS see the drive?, if so, use a linix boot disk to check for data

 

[VirtualLarry]

Remember that thread in General Hardware about how to transfer data off of an old computer, that had Win 3.x on it? And someone brought up that with HDs that old, they shouldn't be moved, because they would have a tendency to fail.

I didn't 100% believe it, but this thread seems to support that theory. Thankfully, I replace my HDs every three years or so, as they are destined to crash eventually if left to their own state of being. Ghost 2003 for DOS is very useful!

 

[mazeroth]

Does the BIOS see the drive?, if so, use a linix boot disk to check for data

BIOS doens't see anything.

 

[Old Hippie]

BIOS doens't see anything.

That's a very bad sign and the freezer trick probably won't work for ya.

Big time bummer!

 

[Blain]

Don't try the freezer trick unless you are not going to spend any $$ on data recovery.

If the data is worth $800 or more, contact My Hard Drive Died to get the data recovered.

 

[Seven]

That drive was old as rock. I wonder how many hours does it have?

 

[vailr]

Try Steve Gibson's "Spin Rite 6.0" before spending large amounts of $$'s.
grc.com

Put back in the old machine to run Spin Rite.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Try Steve Gibson's "Spin Rite 6.0" before spending large amounts of $$'s.
grc.com

Put back in the old machine to run Spin Rite.

If you just want to attempt to recover the HD for shits and giggles, sure, run spinirite on it. But if you want to really recover the data, send it to a lab, don't run a torture test on teh drive that will kill it faster than anything else.

 

[RebateMonger]

If you just want to attempt to recover the HD for shits and giggles, sure, run spinirite on it. But if you want to really recover the data, send it to a lab, don't run a torture test on teh drive that will kill it faster than anything else.

The good news is that, since the BIOS can't see the drive, Spinrite won't see it either. But you are certainly right that this isn't the time to run a disk diagnostics. Especially Spinrite, that is more like a torture test.

The drive should be handed over to data recovery professionals with a cleanroom.

 

[Zap]

if you want to really recover the data, send it to a lab

This.

Anything you try on your own may make matters worse.

 

[hymy]

I used OnTrack once, They were very good.

http://www.ontrackdatarecovery.com/hard-drive-recovery/

 

[Blain]

Was OnTrack more expensive than the $800 that My Hard Drive Died charges?

 

[sleefer]

What brand/model of HD is it? Have you checked the jumper settings? If not, you may want to check mfr. website for specs to check jumper settings for it if they are marked on the drive itself. If they were unable to get the drive running they may have changed the jumpers around, too. If the drive is spinning up, that is. Make sure that it is in the cable position the drive is set for. Can't remember for sure, but 3.2 gig may not have cable select setting. Could be as simple as that.

 

[Blain]

The IT person may very well have knocked dust loose from the internal filter, if he handled the drive roughly.
A drive that's been sitting in the same position and running for years can build up dust (internally generated), in the internal filter.

 

[C1]

Often there's a break on the attached/mounted circuit board. That's probably what happened when someone pried the cable off. Pull the drive & inspect carefully in strong light for any solder connection issues. Put a long IDE cable on it & boot into the BIOS. While the HDD is connected & running & while holding it in your hand, squeeze the circuit board (not real tight), but just to put a bit of flex on it, have someone see if the BIOS finally sees it. I've actually got drives to work this way long enough to be able to transfer the needed data then retire the drive.

 

[Yellowbeard]

I agree with RM and Zap from posts 11-12. Additionally, forking out a nice little chunk of change may:

Compel your employers to listen to people that know what they are talking about.

Get them to implement a proper backup procedure.

Give you a perfect "I told you so" platform from whence to belittle them for monkeying with a 13 year old PC.

Etc etc.

 

[KeithP]

On a couple of occasions I have had older drives that were running constantly refuse to spin up after powering down long enough for the drive to get cold (room temperature). In both cases, I was able to get the drive back up and running by using a hair dryer to heat the drive up, then as the system tries to boot, I will tap on the drive with something like a screw driver handle.

I don't recall where I read this tip, it has been many years, but the idea is that what is happening on these older drives is that drive motor, for whatever reason, no longer has the juice to get the platters spinning when cold. By heating up the drive and tapping, you are doing the equivalent of push starting a car with a weak battery.

Now I have no idea if that is indeed what is going on, but like I said, I have tried it twice and in both cases it worked to get the drive going again. Your mileage may vary.

-KeithP

 

[thescreensavers]

The IT person may very well have knocked dust loose from the internal filter, if he handled the drive roughly.
A drive that's been sitting in the same position and running for years can build up dust (internally generated), in the internal filter.

Since when have they been implementing this Internal Filter? I took apart some older drives and never saw that. His is pretty old so it might not have it.

Maybe I just never noticed

 

[C1]

New drives have a vent hole. There will be a warning that says "do not cover" or something to this effect.

I had once thought that drives were hermetically sealed. Maybe it's just the very old ones. If so, this could account for sometimes why pre-heating a problem drive seems to have an effect (ie, changes the internal pressure). I would try all of the suggested tricks with the exception of not trying to boot from the drive. Set it as slave with a cable that brings it outside the case where you can try some of the suggested tricks.

 

[RebateMonger]

I don't think standard hard drives have ever been sealed. There's a need to have them equalize to room pressure. So they've always had a need for an air filter to keep dust out.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_drive

"The HDD's spindle system relies on air pressure inside the enclosure to support the heads at their proper flying height while the disk rotates. Hard disk drives require a certain range of air pressures in order to operate properly. The connection to the external environment and pressure occurs through a small hole in the enclosure (about 0.5 mm in diameter), usually with a filter on the inside (the breather filter).[47] If the air pressure is too low, then there is not enough lift for the flying head, so the head gets too close to the disk, and there is a risk of head crashes and data loss. Specially manufactured sealed and pressurized disks are needed for reliable high-altitude operation, above about 3,000 m (10,000 feet).[48] Modern disks include temperature sensors and adjust their operation to the operating environment. Breather holes can be seen on all disk drives — they usually have a sticker next to them, warning the user not to cover the holes. The air inside the operating drive is constantly moving too, being swept in motion by friction with the spinning platters. This air passes through an internal recirculation (or "recirc") filter to remove any leftover contaminants from manufacture, any particles or chemicals that may have somehow entered the enclosure, and any particles or outgassing generated internally in normal operation. Very high humidity for extended periods can corrode the heads and platters."

 

[coolVariable]

I would say that the best bet is to connect it via USB.
Are you sure the cable is "in" properly?
Did they maybe mess with master/slave/cable settings?
Did you connect the drive to the proper connector on the cable? (master/slave position?)

Otherwise, we will need some more info:
e.g. does it turn on at all or sit there dead?

 

[hymy]

I don't know how ontracks prices will compare. My experiance was a few years ago, and with a fried USB stick that had my Dissertation on it. They essentially pulled the memory chip and relocated it to another board. Total recovery for 400 bucks. They don't seem to post their price scale anymore. I believe at the time they were the most inexpensive.

 

[mazeroth]

First off, thanks for all the replies!

I did try the different jumper settings with no luck. I will not be back into work until Wednesday and will give a few of the suggestions here a try. I'll also answer the other questions about the drive.