Lookin' good. I took the top off of a Tri-Gem for a while, but the steel was a lot thicker than the Western Digitals'. Excellent show, and a very stylish case BTW.
DC
DC
MichaelD
Lifer
- Jan 16, 2001
- 31,528
- 3
- 76
Originally posted by: Evadman
Well, before I closed the drive back up I did windex the platters to a streak free shine
Actually, I had a brand new ziploc bag ready and waiting for me when I popped the top of the HD. As soon as it came off, into the bag it went. Then I went outside and used a dremmel to chop up the top. Then out came the sander to buff the edges and to get rid of any stray metal shavings. Then into my parts washer it went. I scrubbed the crap out of it. Then, believe it or not, I went out to my pool and swearled it round in the water for a few minutes. Then I let it bake in the sun to remove the water.
Then back inside, I used a tack cloth on it to remove anything I missed. Then I used silicone glue to seal the plexi to the top, used windex on the plexi from the inside to remove my fingerprints, and a last cleaning with the tack cloth before it went back on to the hard drive base.
I would guess the platters were expossed to the ziploc world for a total of 3 and 1/2 hrs. Total time spent out of the ziploc was probably less than 15 seconds.
You are very thorough!!! I respect that. You did a great job. It looks way cool. Where do you get the power for the LED from? Is it hard-wired to the power connector for the HD? You mentioned something about a 540k resistor...what is that for? THanks. Great job.
Adul
Elite Member
- Feb 18, 2001
- 30,990
- 5
- 81
The power for the led is just a bare wire at the moment. I am going to try to find a 12v power on the circuit board so I can just wire it directly, but I may not be able to find it. I just ahve the wire hooked to a 12v wire on one of the extra HD connectors now.
The resister is a 470. If I said 540 I was wrong
To reduce the 12v power down to what the LED uses, I calculated that I would need about 500 ohms to get the amperage I needed. since 500 is not a standard value, I went with 470. LED's work on amperage, not voltage. ( 20 ma in this case )Evadman,
Now that you've seen it in action, what is your impression? Does the arm move faster than you expected? Does it go nuts when you boot? Does it kick up any dust when it parks? What?
I've got a mind to do this, just to see. But I doubt if mine will work. I'm not exactly a craftsman.
Now that you've seen it in action, what is your impression? Does the arm move faster than you expected? Does it go nuts when you boot? Does it kick up any dust when it parks? What?
I've got a mind to do this, just to see. But I doubt if mine will work. I'm not exactly a craftsman.
heh just opened up my old samsung POS...I had no idea it was so easy. anyway, I'm not going to put a window in it, but I'd like to just put it up on my wall or something on display, so will it work to just nail it to the wall or whatever without any covering? it'll get lots of dust I'm sure, so will it be easy to clean the dust off, or will the disk get scratched?
Before sealing the plexiglas top back on, it might have been colourful to use one of the reddish CDR water-based permanent markers on spindle hub (to colourize it). While it would be neat to have a coloured moving arm, it is too delicate to touch with a marker. I bet the edges of the platters are not too delicate though, so perhaps the outside end-edges of the platters might be colourized as well.
The nice thing about being in operation is that the spinning will even out any inconsistencies and imperfections in how evenly you applied the colour.
The nice thing about being in operation is that the spinning will even out any inconsistencies and imperfections in how evenly you applied the colour.
- Feb 18, 2001
- 30,990
- 5
- 81
Originally posted by: dpopiz
can anyone answer MY question?
From me trying it, the dust itself will scratch the patters. I had one on my wall and used canned air to clean it. Still scratched. not that it didn't still look cool
The disks like to attract dust. If I did nto know better I would think they hadd a static charge to 'em.
Originally posted by Startide Rising:
> I am curious as to whether or not the acetic acid outgassing from silicone
> glue will damage the platter surface over time. I am assuming that you
> used silicone glue to seal the window to the hard drive body.
> Is it possible to get a silicone glue that doesn't outgas a lot?
Originally posted by Evadman:
> You are correct. I did use sillicone glue. It releases amonia amoung other
> things as it cures. This specific drive uses a foil tape around the entire
> drive that covers a 1/32" gap. I was just going to remove that tape for
> an hour or so for the next few days to let the air change out. the
> silicone I used was from home depot, and said full cure in 1 week.
> then the outgassing should stop.
I received an informative reply via email from an anonymous AOL member about sources of lower-outgassing silicone glue. I will print an excerpt of the email below without any email name posted to preserve privacy.
-- begin quoted excerpt --
>Is it possible to get a silicone glue that doesn't
>outgas a lot?
Any of those sold by auto parts stores and labelled "safe for oxygen sensors" will fit the bill and don't cure with acetic acid. GE brand silicones sold in plastic, not aluminum, tubes are also low outgassing.
It may be easier to add a window to a drive that has a flat top, like an IBM or Maxtor. I once did this with a 5 1/4" HD that was well under 100 megs, and it ran reliably for years.
For the best chance of obtaining a working drive, clean off the outside of the drive, and try to remove the original cover and install the clear cover while the drive is upside down.
-- end quoted excerpt --
I wonder if working on the hard drive while it is inside a large (one gallon) ziploc will help reduce the chance of dust getting onto a platter? A large bag will give you more freedom of movement if you decide to colour the hub. Because the bag is transparent, you can continue to see what you are working on.
> I am curious as to whether or not the acetic acid outgassing from silicone
> glue will damage the platter surface over time. I am assuming that you
> used silicone glue to seal the window to the hard drive body.
> Is it possible to get a silicone glue that doesn't outgas a lot?
Originally posted by Evadman:
> You are correct. I did use sillicone glue. It releases amonia amoung other
> things as it cures. This specific drive uses a foil tape around the entire
> drive that covers a 1/32" gap. I was just going to remove that tape for
> an hour or so for the next few days to let the air change out. the
> silicone I used was from home depot, and said full cure in 1 week.
> then the outgassing should stop.
I received an informative reply via email from an anonymous AOL member about sources of lower-outgassing silicone glue. I will print an excerpt of the email below without any email name posted to preserve privacy.
-- begin quoted excerpt --
>Is it possible to get a silicone glue that doesn't
>outgas a lot?
Any of those sold by auto parts stores and labelled "safe for oxygen sensors" will fit the bill and don't cure with acetic acid. GE brand silicones sold in plastic, not aluminum, tubes are also low outgassing.
It may be easier to add a window to a drive that has a flat top, like an IBM or Maxtor. I once did this with a 5 1/4" HD that was well under 100 megs, and it ran reliably for years.
For the best chance of obtaining a working drive, clean off the outside of the drive, and try to remove the original cover and install the clear cover while the drive is upside down.
-- end quoted excerpt --
I wonder if working on the hard drive while it is inside a large (one gallon) ziploc will help reduce the chance of dust getting onto a platter? A large bag will give you more freedom of movement if you decide to colour the hub. Because the bag is transparent, you can continue to see what you are working on.
I may not be telling anybody here anything they don't know, but here goes...
Every new generation of drives with larger capacity flies the head lower, closer to the platter. That means the surface has to be flatter, and the size of particles the head would crash into get smaller. 40G drives are going to be much more critical than 1G drives.
When drives spin down, the heads are allowed to crash in a landing zone, which kicks up a little material. For that reason at least, the air inside the drive is filtered.
I am told that even with the methods they use to keep out dust, there is still some loose stuff on the surface of the platters after they are assembled. They run the drives, with the heads parked I assume, for a certain length of time. This throws off some of the loose stuff. The filtering system inside the drive picks up the remaining junk. So one possible thing you could do after a mod is to run it for a few days without the data cable attached, and maybe that would help get rid of contamination.
Every new generation of drives with larger capacity flies the head lower, closer to the platter. That means the surface has to be flatter, and the size of particles the head would crash into get smaller. 40G drives are going to be much more critical than 1G drives.
When drives spin down, the heads are allowed to crash in a landing zone, which kicks up a little material. For that reason at least, the air inside the drive is filtered.
I am told that even with the methods they use to keep out dust, there is still some loose stuff on the surface of the platters after they are assembled. They run the drives, with the heads parked I assume, for a certain length of time. This throws off some of the loose stuff. The filtering system inside the drive picks up the remaining junk. So one possible thing you could do after a mod is to run it for a few days without the data cable attached, and maybe that would help get rid of contamination.
narzy: in case I wasn't clear, I'm just talking about putting the drive on display, not using it. I'm just wondering if there's any way I could clean off the dust buildup every once in a while without scratching the disk.
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