GTO Slave Cylinder Replacement

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AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,715
31
91
Why are you torquing tiny bolts like that? I don't understand people's paranoia. All you're doing by pulling out the torque wrench is giving yourself more leverage to break stuff.

Also your flywheel looks pretty terrible. Those colored spots are typically harder than the metal around them and will cause vibration/chatter and such down the line, if they aren't already.

Really wasn't' thinking about the size of the bolt vs 18 ft lbs. Afterward I realized they're pretty thin for that. They are flanged hex bolts so I figured thought they were higher grade. Had I known the right torque spec, would have been fine.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,809
3,612
136
Why are you torquing tiny bolts like that? I don't understand people's paranoia. All you're doing by pulling out the torque wrench is giving yourself more leverage to break stuff.

Also your flywheel looks pretty terrible. Those colored spots are typically harder than the metal around them and will cause vibration/chatter and such down the line, if they aren't already.

Stop it.
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,154
635
126
Point being, a common click-type wrench is usually rated for 20-100ft-lbs. lets say. I would not rely on it at 20 ft-lbs. Short of having specialty torque wrenches I typically use a 1/4" ratchet (short) and call it good.
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,715
31
91
Taking notes Adam? Or have you already swapped your clutch?

So today the fun continued. New oil pan bolt came in yesterday so I could finish it up.

The offending bolt
BustedBolt_zps4a3544d3.jpg


Oil Seal cover back in and tightened down
RearSealBackIn_zps4a4ef2f2.jpg


New flywheel, bolts torqued 15, 37, 74 ft lbs
NewFlywheelIn_zpscefc27e5.jpg


Clutch disc
NewClutchDisc_zpsf19cffb9.jpg


Pressure plate 52 ft lbs
NewPressurePlate_zps6e328897.jpg


Bellhousing back on, 37 ft lbs
BellHousingOn_zps296ad234.jpg


New slave cylinder w/remote bleeder, had the spring off to measure for the shim.
Slave_w-RemoteBleed_zpsc3b0d2d9.jpg


Slave in
SlaveIn_zpsa63176c4.jpg


Tranny in
TansmissionBackIn_zps7573e8aa.jpg


Tomorrow's to do list:

- finish torquing the transmission bolts
- reconnect the wiring
- bleed the clutch
- re-install driveshaft
- re-hang the catback
- bolt up the cats
- test clutch engagement
- take off stands and test drive
 
Last edited:

phucheneh

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2012
7,306
5
0
You get a full pass on that broken bolt. Some engineer needs to stab himself in the stomach for that. 'Foot long M5 bolt? Sounds like a good idea to me!' D:
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,715
31
91
You get a full pass on that broken bolt. Some engineer needs to stab himself in the stomach for that. 'Foot long M5 bolt? Sounds like a good idea to me!' D:

Hehe, thanks. Yeah definitely a strange bolt for an oil pan.
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,715
31
91
So for anyone following this the goat is all back together. New clutch and slave are working well and no oil leak from the crank seal so mission accomplished.

I will say the Spec stage 1 is definitely gives a stiffer pedal than the stock. Have to push twice as hard now on the pedal. It grabs a lot lower down on the pedal travel too. I'm sure as it wears that will change. I've also got some shudder at low rpm engagement but I guess it will do that as it breaks in? This seems to get better as it warms up and I drive it. It definitely grabs hard and feels snappier when it engages which is definitely fun.

Next project Russell stainless braided brake line install. Should help make that middle pedal a little firmer. Stay tuned.
 

phucheneh

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2012
7,306
5
0
Blarg, I hate hard clutch pedals. If the factory didn't provide enough mechanical/hydraulic advantage, stiffer pressure plates are a no-go for me. Does anyone make a modified clutch master, perhaps?

Make sure you bled it well enough. Engaging/disengaging close to the floor would be a sign of air in the system, in general. Is the pedal effort somewhat consistent, or is it kind of soft at the top of the travel?
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,715
31
91
Blarg, I hate hard clutch pedals. If the factory didn't provide enough mechanical/hydraulic advantage, stiffer pressure plates are a no-go for me. Does anyone make a modified clutch master, perhaps?

Make sure you bled it well enough. Engaging/disengaging close to the floor would be a sign of air in the system, in general. Is the pedal effort somewhat consistent, or is it kind of soft at the top of the travel?

Does feel softer at the top. I can bleed it some more and see if it improves. Think that's it? Maybe it's still got some air in it.

Tick performance does make a heavier duty clutch master which could be an option.