What's the secret? An inside-out swing path generates draw spin but when I try to apply this I wind up pushing the ball right.
Secondly,
Anyone have any good drills for compressing the ball with your irons and taking a divot ahead of the ball like you are supposed to?
GB
Simply put - Your club face must be "closed" when striking the ball. Closed means the face is (slightly) pointing to the left (for right handed players).
I typically address the ball on the inside of my front foot with my feet parallel with the target line. This is off the tee. Off the grass I am slight forward of center.
By the way, what kind of ball are you using? I'm not suggesting you switch, but you'll have to work harder for spin if you're using a two piece, lower compression, lower spin ball like a Magna, rather than say, a balata.
Simply put, you're an idiot. Your clubface does not have to be closed and trying to teach that as a method to draw the ball is something 30 handicap chops might suggest. ALWAYS try to get the clubface back to square, intentionally trying not to is asking for trouble.
-snip-
Bottom line: Don't learn this as you go on the course. Hit the range, preferably one that has real golf balls. If they're marked "range" they will be lower compression and spin less. If so, remember that your results on the course will be exaggerated.
By the way, what kind of ball are you using? I'm not suggesting you switch, but you'll have to work harder for spin if you're using a two piece, lower compression, lower spin ball like a Magna, rather than say, a balata.
I can't wait to get back out there in the spring.
I've been told that balata balls are no longer made. I sure haven't been able to find any in golf stores. All I see are old supplies sold on Ebay etc.
Fern
Magna and balata? Holy crap, 1977 just called, they want their technology back.
@SJ I'm using Pro V1s for the most part. If I am on a hole where I'm in danger of losing one (they're $5/ball) I switch to Pennicle Gold's. I guess I have a relatively weak grip then because my thumb lays right down the center of the grip.
@Gag Thanks for the drills, I'm going to try that. I really want to start shaping a lot more shots (planning on moving to MB irons soon).
That's a neutral grip, if I had to guess without seeing it. You can try strengthening it, might have better results than closing your stance. It's all going to require practice and repetition, though.
If you're worried about losing a $5 ball for a particular shot, stop using $5 golf balls entirely. You'll know when you've moved into the type of game where the type of ball you play matters. I consider myself a fairly decent golfer and there's not a chance in hell I'm spending $60 a dozen. I do play the ProV1, but it's mostly because I find 'em all over the course that my work league plays at 🙂
If I'm buying, I like the Nike Mojo ($20 for 2 dozen) a lot. The noodle is also a good ball, despite its ridiculous name. Pinnacle Gold are just fine too. I've never felt I was using the wrong ball for a particular type of shot. Until you're really good, your scoring comes from play around the green and putting, and no ball fixes a bad short game.
Just stick to a lower cost ball until you're there. You need confidence in every shot, and worrying about losing your ball shouldn't even be on your mind at approach. If it is, play with disposables and remove one more mental piece. Seriously, this could be one instance where playing with the lost bin in my garage would lower your score.
Expensive balls do nothing for we average-to-worse-than-average duffers.Noted, I'll take that into consideration. Thanks for the advice. I'll hit the range and try a stronger grip.
I'm pretty happy with my game to this point. Just want to be able to draw the ball around some doglegs and move the ball right and left. Thanks again for all your input.
I use my stance to promote a draw, but I line up like normal then move my back foot back, as opposed to my front foot forward. It's usually such that my toe is at about the halfway point of my front foot.Address like that, then take your lead foot and close your stance maybe half a step (meaning take a step with that foot closer to the ball). For me, stance is the best way to control draw/fade.
Noted, I'll take that into consideration. Thanks for the advice. I'll hit the range and try a stronger grip.
I'm pretty happy with my game to this point. Just want to be able to draw the ball around some doglegs and move the ball right and left. Thanks again for all your input.
I use my stance to promote a draw, but I line up like normal then move my back foot back, as opposed to my front foot forward. It's usually such that my toe is at about the halfway point of my front foot.
The effect is similar, but I find it easier to hit that ball as opposed to getting closer to it.
If I try to move my stance for a fade I always pull the ball so I don't do it. Instead I try to swing too hard as that gives the fade I used to have before I fixed my swing.
I only shape the ball with my driver off the tee, and only if the whole more or less requires it. No success shaping irons.
You're clueless.
If you don't close the clubface through impact you'll never get a draw. It is that simple.
The vast majority of people who hit fades or slices have the clubface in an open position while hitting through the ball.
In any case, the position of the clubface is relative to the swing path. If you have an inside-out path and the clubface is aimed at a target to the left of that line/path, technically your clubface is in a closed position. If he has an inside-out swing path and the ball is merely pushed, his clubface is obviously open (in relation to the target)
Fern