Going to an event, would like recommendations/suggestions

[thestrangebrew1]

I'm not "shooting" the event, just attending. Taking the daughter to Disney on Ice, in an arena, so it'll be dark except for the ice rink and the occasional flashes from stage effects.

I don't want to take my whole bag, which will mean I'll have to leave a few lenses at home. I have a Canon t5i.

I have the following lenses:

Nifty 50
18-55mm
55-250mm
10-18mm wide angle
75-300mm (no IS)

I'm probably going to be sitting about 50-75 yards back from the show. I'd like to get shots of the performers, as well as of the wife and daughter who will obviously be closer. I'll bring the 50, but at this distance in this type of lighting environment, would it be pretty pointless to bring anything else? I won't be able to bring a tripod either.

I'm thinking I'd have to turn ISO way up. Would changing the meter to spot help in this situation where the spotlight will be on the characters? Any other tips or suggestions?

 

[radhak]

I am not an expert, and a Nikonite to boot, but I've been in that situation : where you really need fast lens and you are SOL.
I found that wide angle lens is good for just a couple of shots, around the arena, to get some context. What I really used was a zoom lens to get some of the stuff going on in the rink - and your 55-250 might well serve you for that, with some help from its IS. ( The extra reach of the 75-300 will be negated by the lack of IS/tripod, and the fact that the extra reach also causes a little bit of extra shake.)

I dare say if your family is sitting next to you, you will need the 18-55mm to catch them.

Your fastest lens is the 50mm with its f/1.8, but it might prove to be too long for family pics, and too short for event pics. Unless of course you are able to move around a bit physically.

Note: you may not have a tripod, but you should always look for ways to anchor the camera - elbows firmly on the seat-arms, or other similar ways. Otherwise you might find yourself with a lot of throwaway pics.

(Don't be surprised, as I was, to see your wife coming up with better pictures with an iPhone in these circumstances...)

 

[corkyg]

There is a bigger question that you should consider.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/1912644

Also, you can aid stability by using your neck strap. Extend your arms and pull against the neck strap for added stability. You would also use the LCD screen for composition and focus. High ISO will be useful.

 

[CuriousMike]

1. Radhak is right = the 50 is going to be too close for family, and too likely too far for performers. I'm generally agreeing with him that your 18-55 and 55-250 will be best for this situation.

I'm thinking I'd have to turn ISO way up.

If you haven't read my "beginners" guide here on AT, give it a quick read. Pay attention to ensuring "auto-iso" is on.

 

[CuriousMike]

There is a bigger question that you should consider.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/1912644

Well, that puts a damper on this whole thing.

Maybe now is the time to get your Sony RX100 ...

 

[thestrangebrew1]

There is a bigger question that you should consider.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/1912644

Yea I thought about this. I've been to a bunch before and don't remember if other people had DSLRs. I do know that people would use their phones with flashes to take pics during the show. I'll have to look into it.

CuriousMike. I'll re-read your guide. Thanks!

 

[Paladin3]

First of all, IS does nothing to help you if your subject is moving. The shutter speeds you have to use to stop the action are plenty fast enough to overcome any camera shake. Tripods are useless for the same reason, and monopods are only used by the pros because their lenses are heavy. So don't sweat non-IS lenses or no tripod.

Take your longest lens, crank your ISO up as high as it will go and shoot wide open. Bring along the wide zoom for shots of the family. The 50 might be nice for available light shots of the entire rink from your seats.

Night/indoor sports are shot with lenses like 80-200/2.8, 300/2.8, 400/2.8, and always wide open at the fastest shutter speed the lighting will let you use.

Shorter, faster telephotos like an 85/1.8 or 135/2 can sometimes work if you are close to the action, like basketball shot from the floor.

Make sure you are spot metering off of the skaters and not the ice. Pray your AF can keep up. On kit lenses, sometimes it's better to just manual focus the shots if you are up to it.

Good luck and have fun.

EDIT: That Canon 55-250 kit lens is shorter (and a bit sharper wide open) than your 75-300. Take any lens hood off and keep it compacted and you may get it past the Disney camera grinchs.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

So I was able to go into the event with my camera and lens no problem. I was able to get some decent shots (although they probably look more point and shoot to you AT pros lol).









I took my 50mm, 18-55mm and my 55-250mm and basically just played with my settings the whole time. I mostly played around with shutter priority and manual, trying to learn along the way. I did use spot metering and tried to keep it on the skaters rather than the ice. I'm going to need to do some tutorials on post processing.

This forum has been great though. I really appreciate you guys sharing your thoughts, tips and constructive criticisms. Makes it much more enjoyable and less frustrating trying to pick up this hobby! Thanks!

 

[CuriousMike]

They all look pretty good to me, certainly better than P&S (and all the people who had their flashes going on and ending up with black photos.)

This one stands out.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

They all look pretty good to me, certainly better than P&S (and all the people who had their flashes going on and ending up with black photos.)

This one stands out.

Thanks Mike. I liked that one the most also. The red lights in the background are bugging me though lol.

 

[EOM]

They all look pretty good to me, certainly better than P&S (and all the people who had their flashes going on and ending up with black photos.)

This one stands out.

That one stood out as well. much more bold and vibrant.

 

[CuriousMike]

Thanks Mike. I liked that one the most also. The red lights in the background are bugging me though lol.

Lots of editing programs to easily remove the red lights.
Keep your eyes open for Adobe Lightroom on sale.
If you have any kids in college, you can get it for a pretty sweet discounted price.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

Lots of editing programs to easily remove the red lights.
Keep your eyes open for Adobe Lightroom on sale.
If you have any kids in college, you can get it for a pretty sweet discounted price.

I've actually been messing with the 30 day free trial of lightroom 6 on and off. Mainly with just the exposure and temperature stuff and not really the stuff to remove or highlight certain parts of the picture it. I've been contemplating between buying the standalone LR6 or subbing. I hate the sub model, but it does have some benefits that I would use, mostly the mobile. But I really hate the subscription model lol.

 

[CuriousMike]

Do yourself a favor and open that image up in Lightroom, and find the healing tool.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

Do yourself a favor and open that image up in Lightroom, and find the healing tool.

Done! That was actually pretty easy lol.

 

[CuriousMike]

Done! That was actually pretty easy lol.

Awesome! That image was well suited for healing, as it has a random pattern.