Some tile require using grout release to prevent staining and filling in natural pourous surfaces. I still think it would be a huge mistake to try and get your homeowners to cover this.
SphinxnihpS
Diamond Member
- Feb 17, 2005
- 8,368
- 25
- 91
Faulty construction is an EXCLUSION (caps for policy language).
Homeowners insurance on DWELLING and DWELLING EXTENSION, works like this: you are covered unless the CAUSE OF LOSS is SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDED. In this case your cause of loss is specifically excluded. To elucidate you further, coverage on PERSONAL PROPERTY usually works in the opposite way; you are NOT COVERED unless the LOSS was caused by a NAMED PERIL.
Filing claims works like this: your carrier can drop you for claim FREQUENCY (number of claims per time period). They can NOT drop you for claim SEVERITY (cost of your claims). Filing two claims in a short space of time does allow them to JUSTIFY (to the state insurance commission), dropping you. Once dropped, you are essentially on a black list for other AAA rated carriers, NOT SOMETHING YOU WANT TO BE ON (that one was for emphasis)! Claim FREQUENCY includes claims for which you were denied, or paid very little. Simply notifying either the home office of your carrier or their agent of a loss is considered FILING a claim.
Your roof claim was covered because the faulty construction lead to additional COVERED damage. If they paid to replace your roof, it was to save them money in the long rung, or more likely, because it was necessary to fix the covered damage, i.e. to get at the damaged framing, they needed to remove the roof, or both.
I worked for years in property insurance claims for American Family Insurance Group. I highly suggest you never file a claim for under 10% of you combined average annual household income.
P.S. your agent is most likely CAPTIVE (works exclusively for the carrier), and as such, must do as they tell him to, including dropping you even against his wishes; even if he was your brother/father/spouse. Also, agents have one function, SELL. The rest they don't understand so much. Older agents may have been dragged into a few claims in their day, and learn a thing or two about how the home office works in such events, but let me tell you something as honest as the day is long; agents are terrific salesmen, and can smile at you while they tell you they killed your mother and ate your children, but even the best agents don't know doodley-squat about claims practices, technically.
P.P.S. Two carriers, Chubb, and Fireman's Fund, are non-confrontational enough that they pay claims they do not legally have to, to keep their EXTREMELY WEALTHY AND HIGHLY EDUCATED customers happy, but unless you have either of these FIVE STAR carriers, expect to be denied.
P.P.P.S. When your carrier pays you and then tries to collect money from a third party (such as your ex-roofer [who hates you now]), they are initiating a process known as SUBROGATION (not misspelled, and pronounced - sub-row-gay-shun). It is important that you know this, because if they do collect from your ex-roofer, you are entitled to your deductible back (in so much as they recovered). The deductible is the FIRST DOLLAR of a claim, and if your carrier collects, since you paid the FIRST DOLLAR, you get the FIRST DOLLAR back.
Homeowners insurance on DWELLING and DWELLING EXTENSION, works like this: you are covered unless the CAUSE OF LOSS is SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDED. In this case your cause of loss is specifically excluded. To elucidate you further, coverage on PERSONAL PROPERTY usually works in the opposite way; you are NOT COVERED unless the LOSS was caused by a NAMED PERIL.
Filing claims works like this: your carrier can drop you for claim FREQUENCY (number of claims per time period). They can NOT drop you for claim SEVERITY (cost of your claims). Filing two claims in a short space of time does allow them to JUSTIFY (to the state insurance commission), dropping you. Once dropped, you are essentially on a black list for other AAA rated carriers, NOT SOMETHING YOU WANT TO BE ON (that one was for emphasis)! Claim FREQUENCY includes claims for which you were denied, or paid very little. Simply notifying either the home office of your carrier or their agent of a loss is considered FILING a claim.
Your roof claim was covered because the faulty construction lead to additional COVERED damage. If they paid to replace your roof, it was to save them money in the long rung, or more likely, because it was necessary to fix the covered damage, i.e. to get at the damaged framing, they needed to remove the roof, or both.
I worked for years in property insurance claims for American Family Insurance Group. I highly suggest you never file a claim for under 10% of you combined average annual household income.
P.S. your agent is most likely CAPTIVE (works exclusively for the carrier), and as such, must do as they tell him to, including dropping you even against his wishes; even if he was your brother/father/spouse. Also, agents have one function, SELL. The rest they don't understand so much. Older agents may have been dragged into a few claims in their day, and learn a thing or two about how the home office works in such events, but let me tell you something as honest as the day is long; agents are terrific salesmen, and can smile at you while they tell you they killed your mother and ate your children, but even the best agents don't know doodley-squat about claims practices, technically.
P.P.S. Two carriers, Chubb, and Fireman's Fund, are non-confrontational enough that they pay claims they do not legally have to, to keep their EXTREMELY WEALTHY AND HIGHLY EDUCATED customers happy, but unless you have either of these FIVE STAR carriers, expect to be denied.
P.P.P.S. When your carrier pays you and then tries to collect money from a third party (such as your ex-roofer [who hates you now]), they are initiating a process known as SUBROGATION (not misspelled, and pronounced - sub-row-gay-shun). It is important that you know this, because if they do collect from your ex-roofer, you are entitled to your deductible back (in so much as they recovered). The deductible is the FIRST DOLLAR of a claim, and if your carrier collects, since you paid the FIRST DOLLAR, you get the FIRST DOLLAR back.
MikeyIs4Dcats
Lifer
- Nov 5, 2001
- 18,366
- 3
- 0
Engineer
Elite Member
- Oct 9, 1999
- 39,230
- 701
- 126
Originally posted by: Jumpem
We had about 400 sq.ft. of tile done last weekend. Out brown grout has dried white, and thousands of little dimples in the tile have white grout permanently in them; ruining the grout and the tile.
We have tried a grout "eraser" and acid cleaner from a local tile distributor to no avail. The contractor that did the work is coming over tomorrow, but I'm not confident he will do anything about it.
As for the grout, I had that happen a few years ago (I did the job) and the grout dried white even though it was a brownish tan color (on the bag). After attempting to take it up (bad idea), we bought a bottle of grout dye/paint and painted the joint lines with a small brush and Q-tips. Looks great now and have had no issues.
As for getting the grout off your tile, I have no suggestions. Sorry!
Originally posted by: Engineer
As for the grout, I had that happen a few years ago (I did the job) and the grout dried white even though it was a brownish tan color (on the bag). After attempting to take it up (bad idea), we bought a bottle of grout dye/paint and painted the joint lines with a small brush and Q-tips. Looks great now and have had no issues.
As for getting the grout off your tile, I have no suggestions. Sorry!
We have been slowly getting the grout out of the tile with an aciditic grout haze remover. With the grout stain, is it true that it only adheres to the grout, and not the tile? Did it just wipe off the tile?
Engineer
Elite Member
- Oct 9, 1999
- 39,230
- 701
- 126
Originally posted by: Jumpem
Originally posted by: Engineer
As for the grout, I had that happen a few years ago (I did the job) and the grout dried white even though it was a brownish tan color (on the bag). After attempting to take it up (bad idea), we bought a bottle of grout dye/paint and painted the joint lines with a small brush and Q-tips. Looks great now and have had no issues.
As for getting the grout off your tile, I have no suggestions. Sorry!
We have been slowly getting the grout out of the tile with an aciditic grout haze remover. With the grout stain, is it true that it only adheres to the grout, and not the tile? Did it just wipe off the tile?
Depends on the tile. If the tile is porous (i.e. not glazed or sealed), it's going to stick to it. We were very careful to keep it between the lines and wipe up (with very wet rags) the excess, if any.
By the way, I think that the dye is only a thick, water based paint (maybe with acrylic resins). I'm not so sure that you couldn't take latex and thin it down and use that. But to be safe, I would go with the dye. It will penetrate the grout and stick like hell.
SphinxnihpS
Diamond Member
- Feb 17, 2005
- 8,368
- 25
- 91
I recall that when I used a dark brown unsanded grout, it was quite staining. You may try and simply to refloat the grout and let a dark color stain the gout that is there.
The above probably won't work well if the tile/grout is sealed. If the grout was sealed with Tilelab sealer or something similar, the heavy duty cleaner Bam will take it off.
The above probably won't work well if the tile/grout is sealed. If the grout was sealed with Tilelab sealer or something similar, the heavy duty cleaner Bam will take it off.
Capt Caveman
Lifer
- Jan 30, 2005
- 34,543
- 651
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DrPizza
Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
I was recently looking at some sort of cut stone that was quite porous, thinking it would look really nice on the wall behind our stove when we do that part of the kitchen remodel. IIRC, there was specific advice on the product to seal it *before* grouting, for the exact reason the OP seems to be having trouble. But after thinking about it, after enough repeated washings, eventually the sealer is going to wear off. I don't have a problem with resealing, but I do realize that at some point, food/grease/whatever is going to get into those pores between the times I seal it. Thus, I decided against such a product.
SphinxnihpS
Diamond Member
- Feb 17, 2005
- 8,368
- 25
- 91
Originally posted by: waggy
Originally posted by: Capt Caveman
nope. he is right isnurance stays on the house not th eperson.
lol, no.
In ten years or so at the earliest. I'm not sure your claim is correcy, but either way I'm not concerned if the next owner pays a little more for insurance.
compman25 is right, home owners is based on the address. There have been many incidences where houses are uninsurable because of past claims, this is a deal killer if you are trying to sell.
"State insurance agencies too, have made changes in the laws governing homeowner?s insurance provisions to help protect consumers. But the number and severity of claims made before an insurer is allowed to non-renew or cancel a policy vary from state to state, but can be a few as two claims being filed within a two or three year period.And if your policy is cancelled or non-renewed, not only does the database reflect such for you individually, but also your home, which can affect resale value since prospective buyers may not be easily able to obtain coverage on the property."
Text
"State insurance agencies too, have made changes in the laws governing homeowner?s insurance provisions to help protect consumers. But the number and severity of claims made before an insurer is allowed to non-renew or cancel a policy vary from state to state, but can be a few as two claims being filed within a two or three year period.And if your policy is cancelled or non-renewed, not only does the database reflect such for you individually, but also your home, which can affect resale value since prospective buyers may not be easily able to obtain coverage on the property."
Text
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