wwswimming
Banned
there's a Storm of the Year size red blob about 400 miles off the Pacific Coast that has just cracked the buoys in Crescent City, CA.
http://www.lajollasurf.org/images/pacne24.gif
as far as why it's interesting, it's the chance to watch crazy people do their thing in surf like this
http://www.mavsurfer.com/images/index_01.gif
obviously Maverick's near Half Moon Bay is the one famous place.
right now the buoys are 17@17, which results in reliable trains of set waves that are 2 x 17 = 34 feet on the face, with the once-per-hour larger wave running 20-50% bigger - 40-50 feet.
HOWEVER 🙂 17@17 is just the beginning for this swell, that's 17 feet at 17 seconds, open ocean buoy measurement. at 17 seconds they tend to jack to twice their swell height for the "bread and butter normal everyday" set waves.
there is absolutely no feeling like being in the water when the waves are this big - if you can do it safely.
of course, safety is not always foremost in the minds of the surfers. one of the MavSurfers has just "come out" about his meth use, and the list of meth using big name surfers is long. that they were tweaking in past years when i was sitting there marvelling at their exploits, well that's life. now they're still surfing without the tweaking, though perhaps not surfing as much or as crazily.
and all this time i thought it was good strong coffee and maybe a little weed that got them out there. i say that because when i once had delusions about body-surfing at Maverick's. i emailed with one of the guys. i told him that i thought i needed to be in exceptional shape to survive the wipeouts, e.g. butterfly 50 yards & then swim 50 yards underwater.
he said, "don't worry about it, most of these guys smoke enough pot to kill an elephant".
well, i didn't mean to talk about drugs, i meant to talk about waves.
http://coastsidesurf.com/pictures/other/peter_mel_001.jpg
that's Peter Mel. that's 60 feet. that's what is moving its way down the coast now !
and the one EXTRA COOL thing about this occasion - there's no ultra-dork announcers like at the 2007 Maverick's contest !!!
"awesome" "Ginormous" "sick" "insane" "DUUUUUUDE"
ANYBODY WANT TO GO SWIMMING ?
http://www.lajollasurf.org/images/pacne24.gif
as far as why it's interesting, it's the chance to watch crazy people do their thing in surf like this
http://www.mavsurfer.com/images/index_01.gif
obviously Maverick's near Half Moon Bay is the one famous place.
right now the buoys are 17@17, which results in reliable trains of set waves that are 2 x 17 = 34 feet on the face, with the once-per-hour larger wave running 20-50% bigger - 40-50 feet.
HOWEVER 🙂 17@17 is just the beginning for this swell, that's 17 feet at 17 seconds, open ocean buoy measurement. at 17 seconds they tend to jack to twice their swell height for the "bread and butter normal everyday" set waves.
there is absolutely no feeling like being in the water when the waves are this big - if you can do it safely.
of course, safety is not always foremost in the minds of the surfers. one of the MavSurfers has just "come out" about his meth use, and the list of meth using big name surfers is long. that they were tweaking in past years when i was sitting there marvelling at their exploits, well that's life. now they're still surfing without the tweaking, though perhaps not surfing as much or as crazily.
and all this time i thought it was good strong coffee and maybe a little weed that got them out there. i say that because when i once had delusions about body-surfing at Maverick's. i emailed with one of the guys. i told him that i thought i needed to be in exceptional shape to survive the wipeouts, e.g. butterfly 50 yards & then swim 50 yards underwater.
he said, "don't worry about it, most of these guys smoke enough pot to kill an elephant".
well, i didn't mean to talk about drugs, i meant to talk about waves.
http://coastsidesurf.com/pictures/other/peter_mel_001.jpg
that's Peter Mel. that's 60 feet. that's what is moving its way down the coast now !
and the one EXTRA COOL thing about this occasion - there's no ultra-dork announcers like at the 2007 Maverick's contest !!!
"awesome" "Ginormous" "sick" "insane" "DUUUUUUDE"
ANYBODY WANT TO GO SWIMMING ?
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