gimme some road bike advice...

[OBLAMA2009]

lemma axe you a question, lemma axe you a question...i wannagitta road bike. im leaning toward specialized tarmac, but a lot of shops have 2013 giant tcr at around a $500 discount, which makes it a better bargain. should i do more looking at brands like ridley/raleigh/cannondale? wadda you think about getting a comfort road bike (roubaix) vs racing road bike (tarmac)?

 

[Ksyder]

Do you race? Ride for fitness? Long distances? Hard to give any input without knowing this.

 

[Ksyder]

also generally there are the same frames with different groupsets under the same manufacturer, so you really have to look at the specs to decide what to get.

Also wheelsets can be an issue, something like the mavic wheels can have proprietary spokes and spoke nipples which can be a maintenance issue if you damage a wheel.

 

[Brigandier]

If you can get a deal on a modern road bike, get it.

Since you're starting out, a good old school bike could also do you well, and you could do better on price.

Skinny tires on a bike with a decent transmission will do you fine. I used to ride an old school(1980's?), three speed girl's Schwinn bike with skinny tires 30 miles a day.

 

[Ksyder]

Yu shuld git down thar too thaa bike shp and ryde or dye one them thar bikes and see whichh 1 u liek to ride best. dat wuld be urr best bet. otherwise u get one wit too aggressive geometry and u won't b comfy on it cuz it snds liek you dont ride much

 

[Meghan54]

OP, guess you're just trying to get into your first road bike, eh?

While I will never claim extensive expertise in bikes, I did work as a mechanic/sales/everything guy in a shop for about a decade...ran the shop for about 5 years. Sold Trek, Cannondale, Schwinn (after their first bankruptcy), GT, Litespeed, Santana, Giant, Klein, among others. So, I have formed opinions and you can take them for what they're worth.

But understand, when you talk road bikes, you are entering a world that's comparable to the audiophile sphere, meaning opinions are widely varied and sometimes really unfounded.


First, realize there are lots of good bike brands. To my mind, the trick to buying is to find a bike shop that'll spend time with you. If the shop won't spend the time you feel is necessary to make you feel comfortable, answer all your questions, leave. They're just out for the $$ instead of making sure you fit the bike and are put on an appropriate steed.

Second, set a budget. Don't go into a shop without a definite line in the sand drawn as to how much you want to spend...it's very, very easy to get upsold and upsold needlessly, especially being new to the roadie arena.

Third, don't focus on just one brand. Bike companies do have philosophies about how a bike fits, so try several brands until you find a brand of bike that feels comfortable under you.

That said, some things to realize and look out for when making your decision. Giant is the largest bike manufacturer in the business, considering worldwide sales. Chinese brand, controls most of the Chinese frame making factories. Their factories make most of the Chinese made frames, no matter what brand is plastered on the downtube.

Trek, Specialized, Cannondale....all good brands. Keep in mind Cannondale of today is NOT the Cannondale of the 2000's. Due to Montgomery's obsession with satisfying his boy's every whim, he bankrupted the company when he tried to enter the 4 wheeler /ATV market. Interestingly, you can time his kid's aging by what weird thing Cannondale was building at the time. Kids bikes when the boy was very young, only lasted a few years, BMX bikes when the boy was of that age, then ATV's when the kid was older. Each time, the product was only built while the kid was interested, then dropped. Sad, really.

Anyway, I'd not get hung up on brand and buy instead by shop and fitment/comfort. There'll probably be a brand that fits you better than others.....and then you've found your bike.

About components. The aforementioned Mavic wheel issue really isn't an issue these days. Sure, back in the '90's when Mavic started out the bladed spoke thing, it was something to at least watch out for. But these days, with Mavic, Shimano, Easton, et al, all producing their own proprietary wheelsets, a good shop will have the appropriate repair parts....and any shop worth anything will have something to repair your fancy wheels, if that's where you end up.

I'd be more concerned about looking out for Campagnolo components myself. While Mavic/Easton/et al wheels abound, Campy parts don't. I'd stick with looking at Shimano equipped bikes, at least for your first bike. And since you're probably not going to be shopping the $2k and above price point, Campy really won't be an issue.

Like I said, shop the shop first. If they cannot give the time to make you feel comfortable with the experience, take time to answer each and every question, put up with you coming back a few times before buying, move on. If they can't spend the time making you comfortable while selling you the bike, what are they going to be like when it comes time to fix/repair it?


Good luck and enjoy riding.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

You should be able to look at a bike and tell what kind of ride it will give. Does it have a compact wheelbase (look at how close the rear wheel is to the frame. The closer it is the more race oriented it is for quicker turning)? Short or longer head tube(short head tube puts you in a more race oriented position, longer more upright for comfort)? Are the rear stays straight or curved(rear stays that are straight offer little give which is stiff and good for racing, while curved rear stays will have more give for comfort)?

I rode a roubieax and they are top notch bikes. Definitely appealing to a newbie. If you're not terribly out of shape I say to always get a race bike. You will get used to the position pretty quickly assuming you're in decent shape and not have the need for a race bike 6 months after owning a comfort road bike.

 

[cavemanmoron]

lemma axe you a question, lemma axe you a question...i wannagitta road bike. im leaning toward specialized tarmac, but a lot of shops have 2013 giant tcr at around a $500 discount, which makes it a better bargain. should i do more looking at brands like ridley/raleigh/cannondale? wadda you think about getting a comfort road bike (roubaix) vs racing road bike (tarmac)?

Can you use spell check before you post next time.


Let me ask you a question?

I want to get a road bike. etc.



Look at the 2014 Indian, for a Real Road bike. It has an Engine. 😉

http://www.indianmotorcycle.com/en-us/motorcycles

 

[OBLAMA2009]

Do you race? Ride for fitness? Long distances? Hard to give any input without knowing this.

i ride mostly for fun and fitness, but do a couple fun races and iron man

 

[OBLAMA2009]

OP, guess you're just trying to get into your first road bike, eh?

While I will never claim extensive expertise in bikes, I did work as a mechanic/sales/everything guy in a shop for about a decade...ran the shop for about 5 years. Sold Trek, Cannondale, Schwinn (after their first bankruptcy), GT, Litespeed, Santana, Giant, Klein, among others. So, I have formed opinions and you can take them for what they're worth.

But understand, when you talk road bikes, you are entering a world that's comparable to the audiophile sphere, meaning opinions are widely varied and sometimes really unfounded.


First, realize there are lots of good bike brands. To my mind, the trick to buying is to find a bike shop that'll spend time with you. If the shop won't spend the time you feel is necessary to make you feel comfortable, answer all your questions, leave. They're just out for the $$ instead of making sure you fit the bike and are put on an appropriate steed.

Second, set a budget. Don't go into a shop without a definite line in the sand drawn as to how much you want to spend...it's very, very easy to get upsold and upsold needlessly, especially being new to the roadie arena.

Third, don't focus on just one brand. Bike companies do have philosophies about how a bike fits, so try several brands until you find a brand of bike that feels comfortable under you.

That said, some things to realize and look out for when making your decision. Giant is the largest bike manufacturer in the business, considering worldwide sales. Chinese brand, controls most of the Chinese frame making factories. Their factories make most of the Chinese made frames, no matter what brand is plastered on the downtube.

Trek, Specialized, Cannondale....all good brands. Keep in mind Cannondale of today is NOT the Cannondale of the 2000's. Due to Montgomery's obsession with satisfying his boy's every whim, he bankrupted the company when he tried to enter the 4 wheeler /ATV market. Interestingly, you can time his kid's aging by what weird thing Cannondale was building at the time. Kids bikes when the boy was very young, only lasted a few years, BMX bikes when the boy was of that age, then ATV's when the kid was older. Each time, the product was only built while the kid was interested, then dropped. Sad, really.

Anyway, I'd not get hung up on brand and buy instead by shop and fitment/comfort. There'll probably be a brand that fits you better than others.....and then you've found your bike.

About components. The aforementioned Mavic wheel issue really isn't an issue these days. Sure, back in the '90's when Mavic started out the bladed spoke thing, it was something to at least watch out for. But these days, with Mavic, Shimano, Easton, et al, all producing their own proprietary wheelsets, a good shop will have the appropriate repair parts....and any shop worth anything will have something to repair your fancy wheels, if that's where you end up.

I'd be more concerned about looking out for Campagnolo components myself. While Mavic/Easton/et al wheels abound, Campy parts don't. I'd stick with looking at Shimano equipped bikes, at least for your first bike. And since you're probably not going to be shopping the $2k and above price point, Campy really won't be an issue.

Like I said, shop the shop first. If they cannot give the time to make you feel comfortable with the experience, take time to answer each and every question, put up with you coming back a few times before buying, move on. If they can't spend the time making you comfortable while selling you the bike, what are they going to be like when it comes time to fix/repair it?


Good luck and enjoy riding.

this is cool you know so much about this. ive been to about 5 different shops and they were all really nice and helpful, but each one seemed to cater to certain brands so i was having a hard time choosing a brand based on shop. its sort of hard to pick based on feel cuz its sort of hard to predict how a certain bike would feel after a few hours of riding. if im a sort of casual rider is a racing bike going to be uncomfortable after a while, im a little worried about back aches.

what do you think an appropriate amount to spend would be. im not really limited but from going to the shops i was sort of expecting to spend around $3200 for tarmac or $2700 for last years tcr.

some of the shops said that they tune bikes up for lifetime, is that pretty standard. also a giant shop said they have a lifetime guarantee on the frames, is that typical from the manufacturer or the shop?

is giant considered to be lower quality or budget?

 

[OBLAMA2009]

You should be able to look at a bike and tell what kind of ride it will give. Does it have a compact wheelbase (look at how close the rear wheel is to the frame. The closer it is the more race oriented it is for quicker turning)? Short or longer head tube(short head tube puts you in a more race oriented position, longer more upright for comfort)? Are the rear stays straight or curved(rear stays that are straight offer little give which is stiff and good for racing, while curved rear stays will have more give for comfort)?

I rode a roubieax and they are top notch bikes. Definitely appealing to a newbie. If you're not terribly out of shape I say to always get a race bike. You will get used to the position pretty quickly assuming you're in decent shape and not have the need for a race bike 6 months after owning a comfort road bike.

so youre saying i should go for tarmac as opposed to roubaix? thats was my inclination, i wouldnt want to get a comfort bike, realize it was a lot of fun, and immediately wish i had gotten something sportier. one of the shops said the could fit a racing bike to be more comfortable and could readjust it later

 

[Ksyder]

Free lifetime adjustment is pretty standard, that way they get you into the shop so they can peform more detailed repairs. It is definitely good to have.

Frame warranty is pretty common also, but if you crash a carbon bike and it breaks I doubt it is covered under warranty. That is one downside of a carbon bike. Mostly that warranty applies to bad workmanship from the manufacturer.

What you spend is dependent on the spec level of the bike, full carbon with ultegra is going to be in that price range. Less than that, and you start getting into aluminum bike with carbon fork and 105 level components, which is fine for the average rider.

I don't know that most serious roadies start with that level of bike, usually they ride for awhile and upgrade their bike as they increase their performance and type of riding they do.

 

[Ksyder]

Its good to go for the higher end though, as you find some bikes will sneak some bad parts in to hit a lower price point, like worse cranks and bottom bracket or brakes, but you still see the shiny derailleurs and shifters which make the whole thing look better than it is.

Usually the derailleurs will be spec'd one level higher than the rest of the components on cheaper bikes

also you risk ending looking like a douche with a really expensive bike if you suck riding wise and people with higher skill will smoke you on a cheaper bike.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Free lifetime adjustment is pretty standard, that way they get you into the shop so they can peform more detailed repairs. It is definitely good to have.

Frame warranty is pretty common also, but if you crash a carbon bike and it breaks I doubt it is covered under warranty. That is one downside of a carbon bike. Mostly that warranty applies to bad workmanship from the manufacturer.

What you spend is dependent on the spec level of the bike, full carbon with ultegra is going to be in that price range. Less than that, and you start getting into aluminum bike with carbon fork and 105 level components, which is fine for the average rider.

I don't know that most serious roadies start with that level of bike, usually they ride for awhile and upgrade their bike as they increase their performance and type of riding they do.

BS. I was just smoking guys with Cervelo bikes with the ultegra components yesterday. Way too much emphasis is placed on the bike. Sure it will help to have the latest and greatest but it's not needed. I have a fuji bike aluminum frame, carbon fork, with 105 components. The bike is much more capable than I am. I have never at any point thought to myself that the bike was holding me back. It comes down to the rider in the end. If you have an aluminum bike that cost $1200 I have no doubt you could be right with the guy with the $3500 full carbon bike assuming both are the same fitness levels.

 

[Ksyder]

BS

average serious rider is what I meant. as opposed to elite level rider.

Some people have more money than they know what to do with and so they can spend 3k on a bike. I don't think I would, although I would like to have a full ultegra bike.

The only way I'm getting that is to build it myself, or buy a no-name nashbar or bikes direct bike. Trying to get that in a specialized, cannondale, giant, etc is going to cost a ton.

 

[OBLAMA2009]

Its good to go for the higher end though, as you find some bikes will sneak some bad parts in to hit a lower price point, like worse cranks and bottom bracket or brakes, but you still see the shiny derailleurs and shifters which make the whole thing look better than it is.

Usually the derailleurs will be spec'd one level higher than the rest of the components on cheaper bikes

also you risk ending looking like a douche with a really expensive bike if you suck riding wise and people with higher skill will smoke you on a cheaper bike.

lol a dude in one of the shops already warned me about douchebikery and told me 3k would be a good "stopping point", i wouldnt want something id be embarrassed to ride anyway.

 

[OBLAMA2009]

BS. I was just smoking guys with Cervelo bikes with the ultegra components yesterday. Way too much emphasis is placed on the bike. Sure it will help to have the latest and greatest but it's not needed. I have a fuji bike aluminum frame, carbon fork, with 105 components. The bike is much more capable than I am. I have never at any point thought to myself that the bike was holding me back. It comes down to the rider in the end. If you have an aluminum bike that cost $1200 I have no doubt you could be right with the guy with the $3500 full carbon bike assuming both are the same fitness levels.

i saw that brand cervelo in one of the shops, is that one of the better brands?

 

[Ksyder]

lol a dude in one of the shops already warned me about douchebikery and told me 3k would be a good "stopping point", i wouldnt want something id be embarrassed to ride anyway.

ya I always chuckle when I see some fat out of shape people wearing full spandex and riding a high end bike

i respect them for their efforts but they look like they got oversold at the bike shop

 

[OBLAMA2009]

ya I always chuckle when I see some fat out of shape people wearing full spandex and riding a high end bike

i respect them for their efforts but they look like they got oversold at the bike shop

...or a geezer with $500 wheels on his bike

 

[pmv]

The bike is much more capable than I am. I have never at any point thought to myself that the bike was holding me back. It comes down to the rider in the end. If you have an aluminum bike that cost $1200 I have no doubt you could be right with the guy with the $3500 full carbon bike assuming both are the same fitness levels.

That's generally the conclusion I always come to when I start lusting after higher-spec bikes. Younger and fitter people than me might differ.

In the end I always decide that as long as its good-enough to be safe (I've seen very cheap ones with _plastic_ brake calipers - I don't think I'd trust them) and won't cost a fortune in constant repairs, there's no point spending a lot of money.

Also, the more expensive the bike, the heavier and more expensive a lock you will need, the more it will cost to insure and the more costly it is to replace or repair it if it gets stolen, or hit by a car.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

I wouldn't spend over $1500 for your first bike tbh. You could get a nice aluminum frame bike from a reputable manufacturer with a good component set. I found the $1700 carbon bikes were lacking in the component dept. A $2500 carbon bike usually has the best of both worlds. For me I'm happy with my $1000 Fuji with 105 components. The carbon fork eats a lot of the road vibration. The full carbon bikes do feel rather comfy. At the time I didn't want to stretch myself out $.
Also don't go thinking once you buy the bike that you're done. You're gonna need pedals, shoes, air pump, some kind of portable air for the road (co2 or mini pump), multi tool for the road, tire levers, a bike work stand to do routine adjustments and maintenance, some sort of seat bag, bottle cages, spare tubes, chain lube, helmet, biking shorts, etc.. Have at least another $500 set aside to get yourself started.

 

[Dirigible]

Go for a good test ride on all bikes you consider. Nothing beats butt in the saddle time to find if you like it. A day bike shopping should be exhausting.

And get fitted to the bike.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

My best advice if you want to be fast is to buy a bike asap and start riding. It don't matter if the bike says Cervelo, Trek, Specialized, Fuji, Giant or whatever on the side of it. It will come down to how much training you've done. Eat right, ride a lot of miles, ride varying types of terrain, vary your training (fast days low mileage, slow day tons of mileage), etc..
And I promise you I've seen bigger guys that would pass you like you were standing still. Heck I saw a chick that probably weighed every bit of 180lbs with calves like Arnold in his prime. She was definitely faster than most posers wearing full race gear on their $4000 bikes I see riding around.

 

[Meghan54]

lol a dude in one of the shops already warned me about douchebikery and told me 3k would be a good "stopping point", i wouldnt want something id be embarrassed to ride anyway.

First, listen to "that dude." Second, get rid of that notion of riding something you'll be embarrassed to be seen riding. That idea of not cool enough components/frame/whatever will end up costing you more $$ than you need to spend and will move you immediately into the douchebag category. And the douchebag category is full of riders who have more $$ than sense...saw it all the time. "Gotta be DuraAce!" or "Campy is the only gruppo worth using." And then the weight weenies.....puh-leese. The most effective weight reduction on a bike that can be done is the rider.

Oilfield is right....don't get hung up on components. Meaningless, almost. I wouldn't take less than 105 from Shimano, but will your performance suffer with 105 vs. Ultegra? Hardly. Honestly, outside keeping your own weight down, watch the wheelset. A heavier wheelset will cost you performance....something about rotating mass getting "heavier" as you speed up. 😉

And don't get hung up on carbon....overrated. A carbon frame is not guaranteed lighter than a good alu. frame. Sure, it's probably got a smoother ride while alu. is stiffer (usually), but compliance does have its downside in that a more compliant bike will absorb some of your pedaling power before transferring it to the drivetrain.

Where I'd almost like to see Ultegra is in the shifters. They do seem to fit and shift better than 105, but that's just my opinion. I've had damned near every gruppo from Shimano over the decades, and while DuraAce is nice, it's almost not worth the $$. Ultegra/105 mix is a good area.....Ultegra shifters, maybe crank.


Cervelo is a good brand, but so is Pinarello, Colnago, etc., etc. Don't get hung up on brands. As I said before, there are literally dozens upon dozens of good bike brands.

And like Oilfield said, $3k is a lot for a first bike. Listen to him, he's giving good advice.

I'd budget $2k and do what he said.....at least $500 for pedals, shoes, gloves, shorts (you WANT padded spandex bike shorts!), etc. Try to buy a closeout '13 model as the '14's are on the floor now. You can get a better deal doing that. And don't be afraid to ask if the shop can trade out components---done all the time.

Lastly, don't let a saddle make or break a bike sale. Have seen it happen despite the fact most all shops will exchange saddles without hesitation.


Oh, one more thing rarely said. If this is your first road bike, expect your neck to hurt for the first week or so of riding. Happens to all roadies until you train the muscles in your neck to accept the fact you're going to hold your head in that position you assume when riding a road bike.

 

[JulesMaximus]

I'm going to chime in here and say that I don't like aluminum road bikes. They are just too stiff and give a pretty harsh ride especially if you upgrade to a lighter, stiffer wheel (stock wheels are typically pretty whippy and flexible believe it or not... not to mention heavy). Carbon seat stays and fork do little to improve an aluminum bike so I wouldn't waste your money on a bike with carbon stays, get one with better components instead, Shimano 105 is excellent, I'd look for this over their lower groupsets. Carbon fork is pretty standard so you'll get this with pretty much any decent bike.

I like steel frames or carbon but finding a decent lightweight steel bike is $ and carbon bikes are even more $$$ so you'll probably end up with aluminum.

Biggest thing really is fit. Go to your LBS and have them set the bike up so that it fits you and you are as comfortable as possible on it. This is more important than anything else. If you aren't comfortable on the bike, you won't ride it.

Changing saddles can help address issues like numbness, you definitely don't want to have numbness if you are riding but you will always have a sore rear for the first few weeks. Just rest between rides and let your body recover before your next ride and after a few weeks you'll find yourself riding farther and returning with less discomfort.

I agree with just about everything Meghan and Oilfield have stated as well. Invest in some good padded shorts (I like bib shorts), jersey, shoes and gloves.