GFCI outlet fail over time?

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Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
I have an Leviton (I think, the Home Depot ones) GFCI in the bathroom on a combo switch (switch is in same box as plug) controlling the bathroom fan.
Worked pretty good when I installed it years ago but over time it started to trip when turning the ceiling fan off. Plug works when fan is off, seems to trip more often when the switch is pushed hard. I am assuming this has something to do with the trip itself, like something physical about it not electrical.
Is it odd for the mechanical part of a GFCI to fail like that?
I plan on replacing it today any brands I should look for?

Unrelated going in for a electrical adventure again. I need to add a plug either inside the vanity or under the above plug/switch is working under the vanity super frustrating? I do have a light controlled by a switch in the hallway above the vanity but this plug will require constant power. Adding a bidet.
 
J

jmagg

Platinum Member
Nov 21, 2001
2,220
459
136
Yes, GFCI do need replacement at times, but cant be sure if that's your prob.
On the new outlet, if on the first floor, I would look for a junction box in the basement and drill through the vanity and floor for access.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
jmagg said:
Yes, GFCI do need replacement at times, but cant be sure if that's your prob.
On the new outlet, if on the first floor, I would look for a junction box in the basement and drill through the vanity and floor for access.
Click to expand...

I was hoping to do that but I do not have any junctions nearby in the basement. I have a Ranch that was re-wired and most boxes are in the attic. There is a box near the ceiling fan but access to it is very difficult.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
Back to the original sloppy question.
It is not unheard of or that unusual for a GFCI to mechanically fail correct?
 
herm0016

herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,516
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Fanatical Meat said:
Back to the original sloppy question.
It is not unheard of or that unusual for a GFCI to mechanically fail correct?
Click to expand...

yes, but i would also take that box apart and make sure there are no loose connections.

in my rental, upon inspection, i found someone had jumped the neutral to the ground at an outlet just downstream from the gfci outlet in the bathroom. it had been fine for years but the gfi all of a sudden would not reset. very odd. removed the jumper and all was well. im glad that place is no longer under my management.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
herm0016 said:
yes, but i would also take that box apart and make sure there are no loose connections.

in my rental, upon inspection, i found someone had jumped the neutral to the ground at an outlet just downstream from the gfci outlet in the bathroom. it had been fine for years but the gfi all of a sudden would not reset. very odd. removed the jumper and all was well. im glad that place is no longer under my management.
Click to expand...

I used a line tester thingy years ago. The kind that displays lights to tell if grounded and wired correctly and it was good.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
Maybe this is my problem?

See the label
71B45317-B696-4B3E-9AB9-B4D8B2276072.jpeg

Not sure what the black stuff is but it doesn’t come off.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
Alright replaced the plug, tester says it’s wired & grounded. I turned the fan switch on/off a bunch of times anywhere from gently to pretty rough and all seems fine nothing tripped.
Sadly Leviton was the only option. I wanted the commercial grade plug because this plug gets used a lot.
I liked the thinner plug more room to stuff wire behind it.
I didn’t like the screws and how the wires attached plus the labels were difficult to read.
 
Thump553

Thump553

Lifer
Jun 2, 2000
12,839
2,625
136
Similar question-I have a GFI in an outside box. It's the basic gray box, hinged at top foam sealant on the door to keep out the weather when nothing plugged in. It's in a damp area (never standing water, just exposed to weather and shaded so slow to dry out). I rarely use that outlet but tried the other day to find it was dead (reset did nothing).

Should I replace both the box and the GFI. Any suggestions what to use?
 
Torn Mind

Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
12,078
2,772
136
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
This weekend project will be figure out where to add a plug for the bidet and hopefully run the wire or at minimum cut the wall and install the box.
I would like it near the toilet so I don’t have to do any funky stuff with an extension cord and running that thru the vanity.
I know the simplest route plug wise is add one under the GFCI I just replaced but I need to do the above funky run.
Option B is inside the vanity, I could use the light above the vanity to tie into. Bummer on this is inside the vanity is very crowded by piping and cramped space due to shelves in the vanity
Option C which is probably the best run a wire from the panel, put this plug on its own circuit, install GFCI plug next to the toilet. I am not qualified to add a breaker in my fuse box but I know my brother in law can handle that. Running the wire and figuring out where to cut into the floor at the proper place scares me. Overall this is probably the right way though. First option could have the bidet running (up to 600 watts), bathroom fan which I do not know the wattage but I do remember buying a high air flow fan when we bought the house plus the GFCI plug I just replaced running a hair dryer or curler for my wife. Sounds like three high load things could be running at once.
 
G

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,236
6,431
136
Hair dryer will put you over the top. My wife has one that should be running on three phase. Damn thing always trips the breaker.
 
Fanatical Meat

Fanatical Meat

Lifer
Feb 4, 2009
35,862
17,403
136
Greenman said:
Hair dryer will put you over the top. My wife has one that should be running on three phase. Damn thing always trips the breaker.
Click to expand...

yeah we went thru many to find one that didn’t cause failures or burn the plug. Fortunately the current one works and doesn’t cause problems. I forgot the wattage but I assume it is minimum 800 watts, 600 max for the bidet. That’s 1400 right there and I don’t think it is crazy to believe someone poops in the morning then uses the dryer or curler. What can a 20 amp line handle 2,000 watts? I doubt the bathroom fan uses much but as I said it is a high flow fan. Going to guess 100 watts for that. Seems like a lot of load for one line and I know the bidet won’t run at 600 all the time but I assume after using it the power ramps up to heat the water.
@Greenman you are a skilled professional, any suggestions how to reliably find out where to cut in the basement to run a wire into the wall?
I read put a nail thru the floor at the edge of the wall to use as a marker but I have a tile floor and that would not be feasible without cracking or removing a tile which I don’t want to do. I have no spare tiles and fear breaking it. I have no idea what type of tile it is but it was probably a 2008 era Home Depot tile.
Second question, I have wood panel covering old porcelain tile, think a 60s bathroom blue square tile behind the wood veneer/cover. I assume a jig saw will cut that.
Where I’d put the new plug is close to the water line for the toilet, other side of the wall is kitchen cabinet. Closest plug in the kitchen is counter height and around two feet away. Pretty sure there is nothing inside that part of the wall.
 
G

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,236
6,431
136
Cut the hole in the wall first, then drill down through the hole.
Or find the waste line for the toilet, should be visible underneath, and there should also be a vent pipe going up through the wall. Those two should give you points to measure from. That will also allow you to see what you might be drilling through below the floor. The center of the toilet pipe should be 12" from the face of the wall. Check it from the top by measuring from the bolts that hold the toilet down to the wall. There are some odd ones around, 10" being the most common of them around here.
 
M

Micrornd

Golden Member
Mar 2, 2013
1,360
227
106
Fanatical Meat said:
What can a 20 amp line handle 2,000 watts?
Click to expand...
1920w steady using a 20A GFCI and 20A breaker.
For a 15A GFCI outlet with a 15A breaker, figure 1440w steady.
Although code allows 15A outlets on a 20A breaker, it doesn't allow GFCIs that same mismatch.
And using 15A outlets on 20A breakered circuits is probably the main reason for premature outlet death in highly used/loaded outlets (scorching, loss of grip in the contacts, etc.) IMO.
Match the outlet or GFCI to the breaker or wiring, whichever is rated the lowest.
 
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