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Getting ready to do a bunch of wiring, need solder tool advice

F

fbrdphreak

Lifer
So I'm going to rewire my 97 Legacy's headlights, upgrading it with a new harness run off relays and some nice bulbs. I've done some basic soldering before, but my cheapie soldering iron won't cut it for 10-12ga wire.

I've done a little research and this 260/200 watt soldering gun is recommended, and the price isn't bad: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-D550PK-...dp/B00002N7S1/

However, another person also had this in their soldering arsenal. $25 and they say it will heat up 0ga wire in no time.

I will eventually be doing amp wiring in my 06 Legacy, I guess probably 4ga. My immediate needs are limited to 10-12ga wires. I'm planning on getting a little "Extra Hands" wiring jig to hold the wires together so I can solder more easily.

After I tackle my 97's headlights, I'll likely re-do the HID retrofit wiring on my 06 (previous owner installation) and upgrade the speakers including an amp. Beyond that, I don't know what uses I will have for a soldering tool.

All things considered, which tool would be best for my needs? I don't really want to spend the money on both, but I could be convinced if the reasoning is solid.
 
Are you going to have to go near any heat sensitive car parts? If not, I'd just go with the torch.

I used a propane torch to attach ring terminals I made out of copper tubing to 4 ( or was it 6 ga ) wire for a welder I was modifying. It would have taken considerably longer if I used the ~300W Weller gun I have ( like the one you linked ).
 
I plan on doing the soldering outside of the car. Mock up the wire to see how long I need it, cut, add the connections and then install. So the torch would indeed be okay there. I really can't see any situation where I would be soldering inside the car, as I won't be adding to any existing wiring any time soon.
 
Wear glasses. Solder can sometimes spit a little bit and you do not want that in your eye. It spits in small enough quantities it doesn't really hurt that much but skin is one thing, iris another.
 
Skoorb said:
Wear glasses. Solder can sometimes spit a little bit and you do not want that in your eye. It spits in small enough quantities it doesn't really hurt that much but skin is one thing, iris another.
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this is good advice. i'm a dumbass and i solder without safety equipment a lot, then i end up with a little solder volcano and am wishing i had on glasses and maybe even a dust mask.

this only really happens when you accidentally get your iron too hot, though. if you can keep it at the right temp, you shouldn't really see much smoke or 'spitting.'

i have a little weller iron that was maybe $20 at sears, and i do most of my basic soldering with it. even done some stuff on electronic PCB's. gets to just the right temp, doesn't cycle between too cold and boiling the solder like my butane iron.

and guns are the suck.
 
Interesting - my "Automotive wiring for dummies" book (not real title) was all about some soldering for automotive stuff. It covered plenty on crimping, taping, etc, but didn't mention any con's to soldering. I can see the argument against soldering, just curious about the disconnect here.
 
I've used a Weller gun for years. I solder connectors onto coax and a torch would damage the center insulator. I solder all of my connectors in a car. Never had a problem with it.
 
If the connection is going to move or flex at all, then I won't solder, I'll crimp.

Since crimping works well for almost anything, I just crimp and don't worry about soldering.
 
since your doing headlights. at one point they might get wet.

I found crimp connectors with heat shrink ends. I did that for anything i worry about having water getting to it. Most stuff in cabin i use the regular crimps.
 
T2urtle said:
since your doing headlights. at one point they might get wet.

I found crimp connectors with heat shrink ends. I did that for anything i worry about having water getting to it. Most stuff in cabin i use the regular crimps.
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Yeah I'm going to pick up some nice connectors like that, or maybe just some quality crimp connectors and use my own heatshrink. Either way, definitely aiming to do it right the first time.

Thanks for the input all. I'll skip the soldering for now.
 
heat shrink butt connectors work pretty well. use high heat to seal them- cig lighter takes a long time, heat gun is impossible; i just use a torch. give them a wrap in tape when you're done in case you pierced the rubber when crimping, then wrap the whole bundle.
 
brblx said:
heat shrink butt connectors work pretty well. use high heat to seal them- cig lighter takes a long time, heat gun is impossible; i just use a torch. give them a wrap in tape when you're done in case you pierced the rubber when crimping, then wrap the whole bundle.
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Good tip. I was thinking the $25 Torch from Lowes is a good investment regardless and ought to work well for zipping up those heatshrinks...
 
NutBucket said:
Or do both.
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When I was working an internship for a company that did electric fan and pump systems for heavy duty diesel vehicles, when I did up wiring harnesses for them, they generally went with crimp and solder for things like ring terminals. Otherwise I used a lot of Deutsch crimp-on pins and sockets for connectors.

The crimp tool was freaking expensive though, like $250. I'm sure a lower end model would get the job done.

And I don't know the specific tool or wattage, but the soldering iron I used wasn't some big mamma jamma. With a smaller tip it could be used for board work, and with the bigger tip it could still easily heat up enough to solder ring terminals to 10-12 ga wire. But if you're looking for a tool for the eventual project involving 4 ga, then yeah you'd need something else.
 
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Yeah, I imagine that soldering would be especially helpful with higher gauge ring terminal connections; given the greater amount of stress on the connection.
 
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