Ok i'm not going the mountain bike route... but upon looking up road bikes... it seems like they're soooo much more expensive than mountain bikes... and building your own to save money isn't similar at all to building your own computer since it'll end up costing hundreds more than buying a stock bike. Id be happy to get one of those wally world specials for $100 but it seems like mt bikes have gotten more popular and you can't get a road bike anywhere else other than your local bike shop... and the cheapest ive found is $500 for a giant OCR3 my size. Any suggestions?
Getting a road bike...
- Thread starter boyRacer
- Start date
All the major bike brands (not the Target-Walmart brands) have model years, like cars. If you're looking to cut costs, try to find a new or lightly used "last year's model" on closeout. You might also score a great deal on a pre-owned bike from local classifieds, or the bulletin boards of your local bike shops (most used bikes don't have very good resale value).
I've seen some good deals on Ebay.
Also a lot of people buy road bikes thinking they are going to get into the sport, ride them a handful of times and then hang them in the garage. I work at a bike shop and people call all the time wanting to sell us bikes. I once bought a Alum. Trek 21 speed ridden a hand full of times for $40 !
Look around! Check the bulletin boards at your local shops, check the papers on the weekends, hit garage sales, and look around on Ebay.
Here in Oregon there is a paper put out called Oregon Cycling and I found a good deal on a GREAT road bike for my (at the time) girlfriend through the ad's in that paper. Check if there is a similar paper in your area.
Another thing to check. Most bike companies have bikes left over from the previous year and they sell them much cheaper that THIS years bikes. Check at your local shops to see if they have access to any close-outs!
Good luck!
Also a lot of people buy road bikes thinking they are going to get into the sport, ride them a handful of times and then hang them in the garage. I work at a bike shop and people call all the time wanting to sell us bikes. I once bought a Alum. Trek 21 speed ridden a hand full of times for $40 !
Look around! Check the bulletin boards at your local shops, check the papers on the weekends, hit garage sales, and look around on Ebay.
Here in Oregon there is a paper put out called Oregon Cycling and I found a good deal on a GREAT road bike for my (at the time) girlfriend through the ad's in that paper. Check if there is a similar paper in your area.
Another thing to check. Most bike companies have bikes left over from the previous year and they sell them much cheaper that THIS years bikes. Check at your local shops to see if they have access to any close-outs!
Good luck!
BTW: What size do you need?
We have a KHS sports touring on close out for $499.95. (56 CM as I recall)
I'd ship it to you if your interested.
We have a KHS sports touring on close out for $499.95. (56 CM as I recall)
I'd ship it to you if your interested.
Thanks for the suggestions... 
I was looking at used bikes but then i don't think i'd feel comfortable buying one. Maybe if i find a really good deal. I tried to stop by my LBS today but they were still closed and the others were a bit far. Anyway this is going to be my first road bike... that's why i don't wanna be plunking down huge cash right away. My inseam size is 31in so does that make my size 52cm? Would 51 be ok then?
I was looking at used bikes but then i don't think i'd feel comfortable buying one. Maybe if i find a really good deal. I tried to stop by my LBS today but they were still closed and the others were a bit far. Anyway this is going to be my first road bike... that's why i don't wanna be plunking down huge cash right away.
My inseam size is 31in so does that make my size 52cm? Would 51 be ok then?Go to a shop and get fit for a road bike (It's more than just a stand-over measurement, especially for a beginner)........nothing more painful than buying by price, especially your first bike, and have it fit horribly. Then that is money flushed down the toilet...........you have a bike and cannot ride it.
Fit, fit, fit.........lots of good road bikes by lots of good companies out there, but by far fit is the most important thing. $500 is about what the entry level to road bikes will run. But you must consider that the frames and components are head and shoulders above those $100-200 specials you see in the mtn. bike arena. Road bike components, even the lowest levels, are much nicer and better constructed vs. the bottom end mtn. versions by Shimano..........but then again, roadies tend to hold onto their bikes longer, ride longer distances, and require a better set of components.
Giant and Trek are two that make nice entry-level road bikes......but many other companies do, too.
Fit, fit, fit.........lots of good road bikes by lots of good companies out there, but by far fit is the most important thing. $500 is about what the entry level to road bikes will run. But you must consider that the frames and components are head and shoulders above those $100-200 specials you see in the mtn. bike arena. Road bike components, even the lowest levels, are much nicer and better constructed vs. the bottom end mtn. versions by Shimano..........but then again, roadies tend to hold onto their bikes longer, ride longer distances, and require a better set of components.
Giant and Trek are two that make nice entry-level road bikes......but many other companies do, too.
You want about 1 inch of standover clearance above the top tube.
Racers tend to ride the smallest bike they can be comfortable on while sport riders tend to feel better on larger frames because the saddle will be higher in relation to the bars.
I have a inseam about the same as yours and I ride a 52CM. If you CAN, find a custom hand made frame. I got a one off frame built here in Eugene and it is SWEEET compaired any off the shelf bike I have ever ridden. I got the frame used at the old shop I used to work at ($50!!!!) and had it powder coated. Built it up over time using older Dura Ace components. (19LBS!! and it's STEEL)
There are a lot of custom builders out there, I found a Strawberry frame for my girlfriend (he builds frames in Portland Or.) for about $100 used.
EDit: As C'DaleRider said FIT is the key!
Bars should be shoulder width. When on the saddle with the cranks at the bottom of the stroke you should have a SLIGHT bend in your knee. With the cranks horazontial to the ground and the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle your should be able to hang a plumb bob from the small bony knob under your knee and it should hang over the middle of the pedal spindle, if it doesn't, you slide the saddle back or forward in the seat post clamp until it does. Next, when in the drops (the lowest part of the bars) you look down at the front hub. The top of the bars should obscure the front hub, if you can see the hub infront of the bars, your stem is too short, if you see the hub behind the bars, it's too long.
Racers tend to ride the smallest bike they can be comfortable on while sport riders tend to feel better on larger frames because the saddle will be higher in relation to the bars.
I have a inseam about the same as yours and I ride a 52CM. If you CAN, find a custom hand made frame. I got a one off frame built here in Eugene and it is SWEEET compaired any off the shelf bike I have ever ridden. I got the frame used at the old shop I used to work at ($50!!!!) and had it powder coated. Built it up over time using older Dura Ace components. (19LBS!! and it's STEEL)
There are a lot of custom builders out there, I found a Strawberry frame for my girlfriend (he builds frames in Portland Or.) for about $100 used.
EDit: As C'DaleRider said FIT is the key!
Bars should be shoulder width. When on the saddle with the cranks at the bottom of the stroke you should have a SLIGHT bend in your knee. With the cranks horazontial to the ground and the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle your should be able to hang a plumb bob from the small bony knob under your knee and it should hang over the middle of the pedal spindle, if it doesn't, you slide the saddle back or forward in the seat post clamp until it does. Next, when in the drops (the lowest part of the bars) you look down at the front hub. The top of the bars should obscure the front hub, if you can see the hub infront of the bars, your stem is too short, if you see the hub behind the bars, it's too long.
There's more than stand-over........torso-to-inseam must be taken into consideration, among other things. For instance, Trek tends to have a longer-than-average effective toptube length while Giant has a much shorter effective top-tube length. So, is your torst-to-inseam equal, long, or short? This will very much influence your selection of frameset.
I know you can fudge the seat back and forth and play with stem length, but this is something either an experienced rider does or a shop does for you if it's your first road bike. Then Q-factor meaurements, you going to take them yourself?
Go to a real bike shop that uses a fit kit and get fit for your first. After the first one and you've learned to ride, use the STI shifters (you do know how to use STI, right?), and learned a comfortable geometry for your body type, then you can buy without fitting......you'll know what works and doesn't work.
Have fun and good riding.
BTW......I've an inseam of 34-35", but only ride a 56cm........my torso is short so I buy a smaller frame than most....and you can shorten or lengthen a stem too much and screw up the handling too easily.
I know you can fudge the seat back and forth and play with stem length, but this is something either an experienced rider does or a shop does for you if it's your first road bike. Then Q-factor meaurements, you going to take them yourself?
Go to a real bike shop that uses a fit kit and get fit for your first. After the first one and you've learned to ride, use the STI shifters (you do know how to use STI, right?), and learned a comfortable geometry for your body type, then you can buy without fitting......you'll know what works and doesn't work.
Have fun and good riding.
BTW......I've an inseam of 34-35", but only ride a 56cm........my torso is short so I buy a smaller frame than most....and you can shorten or lengthen a stem too much and screw up the handling too easily.
im sure i'll get fitted anyway when i go get my bike since i dont feel to good about getting one online. but i'll keep all your suggestions in mind. didn't know so many things mattered that much. guess there's no other way around a $500 entry level road bike then... but thanks!
Yeah, if you want a good bike that will last a while, you'll have to start at $500-$600. Anything cheaper will probably end up costing you more in repairs in the long run and won't be nearly as fun to ride.
TRENDING THREADS
-
Discussion Zen 5 Speculation (EPYC Turin and Strix Point/Granite Ridge - Ryzen 9000)- Started by DisEnchantment
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel Meteor, Arrow, Lunar & Panther Lakes + WCL Discussion Threads
- Started by Tigerick
- Replies: 24K
-
Discussion Intel current and future Lakes & Rapids thread- Started by TheF34RChannel
- Replies: 23K
-
-
Facebook
Twitter